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Found 6 results

  1. Hi all, I am running an RB25DET Neo in my R32 and using the R34 power steering pump and reservoir. I have added a power steering cooler into the low pressure return line as can be seen in the pictures but apart from that it is exactly the same as factory. The problem i am having is that i think i have a huige airlock in the system. My power steering pump is making some terrible noises and my mechanic mate said that it is trying to pump air through the system and tats wy it sounds like that. I am inclined to believe him as i had the whole power steering system apart when i took the engine out and it had absolutely no power steering fluid left in it when i put it all back together, so it seems i had perfect conditions to create and airlock in the system. Many tutorials say to jack the car up, pour the P/S fluid in the reservoir and then turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and just let the system bleed itself and work the air out, but this is not working for me at all. Even with the wheels in the air there is resistance when trying to turn the steering wheel. And obviously it is even harder with the wheels on the ground. With the wheels in the air i have turned it lock to lock probably 200 times and it seems to make no difference at all to how it behaves. My mate said that there could be a bleed nipple or something similar on the power steering rack itself that i can use to bleed the system but from doing a little searching nobody has ever made mention of a bleed point on the power steering rack itself. The only theory that i have at the moment is that it is my power steering cooler causing the airlock. I will get some photos tomorrow of how i have it set up, but basically i have it upside down in the front bar (ie, the power steering lines run up to it to connect to the barbs rather than down to it) Any help ideas would be greatly appreciated as i am really a bit stumped at the moment. I don't want to have to drive it round to work the air out as it is making some truly terrible sounds at any revs haha :|
  2. This question has been asked a few times but no direct answeer.Bled the brakes four times not a single bubble came out after the third time. I rebuilt my calipers and put new brakes and rotors. what do i do to bleed the master cylinder as the pedal is very soft goes right to the floor but somehow manages to stop the car. Heard some say i push the pedal to the floor and someone cracksthe bleed nipple. Looking aroumd the master cylinder and couldnt find it .Any help is appreacited trying to avoid a shop doing this for me.
  3. Hi guys my Attesa reservoir looks like this : note this is with ignition off. in this picture air gap is 27mm and fluid is 30mm above max line, when ignition is on fluid level is 25mm above max line, previous owner of the car had this problem in January: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/418449-r32-gtr-attesa-overflow-or-leak/ when i got the car i got all the fluids changed and mentioned that i thought the fluid was overfilled, so the attesa fluid was changed and the system bled (supposedly) but it was still way over the max line, it wasn't causing any problem and 4wd seemed to be working fine so i didn't worry about it, however after the last time i drove the car (which was in a rather enthusiastic fashion) i returned to the garage a week later to find leaked fluid (same as in post above), it looks as though its just overflowing out of the top when fluid is returning. from what i have read the air gap is only supposed to be 5mm max, If i bleed the system myself will that reduce that gap? without removing fluid and reservoir to have a good look its a little hard to tell how it works. I noticed that fluid level inside reservoir always seems to be higher than it appears on the outside and wondered if the filter inside the reservoir was abit clogged. edit: I remember that i had taken a picture when i first got the car, the air gap has definitely increased as you can see:
  4. Attesa not working I have a S1 C34 that is manual converted, with power fc. I have the secret squirrel mod done. It previously had an extreme TSC that I removed thinking that may be the cause, but no change. My AWD has never worked since I bought the car 2 years ago. When I purchased the car the owner said the Attesa needed to be bled since the gearbox had been out. I bled the Attesa and it still doesn't work. I can hear the pump prime when I turn ign on and it runs occasionally while sitting at idle. I have had the awd and abs lights come on and stay on after sitting idle for long periods. I don't seem to have any fault codes to try and work out why it doesn't work. I have checked that the Attesa ECU is receiving a TPS signal and that is all ok. I'd really like to get it working, as it is hard getting the power down just through the rear wheels. I've been reading and am thinking either pressure switch or accumulator. Is there any way to check these for sure?
  5. i have searched google and forums and haven't found an aswer. Does anyone have the specs for the following: Coolant bleed screw length, i think it's an m10? i need the screws and threads to attatch the fan.. what do i get?
  6. After doing a 5 stud conversion + brake upgrade (r33 gtst brakes) onto my r33 gts I cant get my brake pedal to feel firm. The car used to have ABS but everything has been removed including the sensors on the calipers. I have compared my brake setup to another non abs r33 and its exactly the same so theres no reason it shouldn't work. Ive already had a mechanic look at it, tried to bleed it, but still no improvement on the brakes. Besides that I have also tried to bleed the brakes and master cylinder using the brake pedal and a hand pump vacuum bleeder. With the car not running, the first 20% of the brake pedal has play, and the last 80% of the brake pedal feeling solid as. With the car running, is literally the opposite, 80% of the brake pedal is useless and the last 20% is when the brakes stop the car although i haven't tested it at speed higher than 30km/h. Theres no leaks, every connection is tight, fresh brake fluid etc. The brake booster is also from a turbo r33 to match the turbo gtst brakes. Could the master cylinder be broken? is there a way to test if it is? the brake booster and master cylinder both worked before installing them. I read on a forum from someone who did the same brake upgrade, same car, and had to upgrade to brake booster and master cylinder cause the brake pedal always felt soft/spongy. But there was no information on the upgrades he made? Any help would be appreciated!
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