Search the Community

Hi all, Recently pulled the stereo out and replaced it with a Pioneer unit, painting the black plastics at the same time. However, the radio reception wasn't great - when we held the harness (including bracket, Climate control, single din head unit and ashtray) before screwing it in we were getting amazing, loud, crystal clear reception. However, as soon as we screwed it all in, the clarity faded, though you can still hear the radio fine. We're going to try again this weekend and get a good ground going - we feel it may have been grounding through the antenna. While the stereo was out, we found a pair of TV 'bunny ears' antenna (from the jap install with previous headunit that had TV function? The TV never worked for me).Also, there were quite a few proper connector plugs unplugged - is this where the automatic models would be plugged in? My vehicle is manual. I also found some RCA cables (L and R) that seemingly didn't fit anywhere. It seemed that when i turned the ignition 1 click when they were unplugged, there would be lots of whining noises coming from the dash. However, when they were plugged in, this seemed to subside - even if they weren't plugged into anything with output. Curious, i opened up the boot and took off the little cardboard/carpet section between the boot and the rear seats, and found these things (pictured) near the rear speakers on the parcel shelf. I receive frequencies for Triple J 105.7 and Triple M 104.9, so obviously at some stage in Australia (vehicle imported 2004 i believe, 1998 R34 GT-T) i had an FM expander installed. There is a 'Diversity' plug/antenna thing behind the stereo i believe. Are these things antenna amplifiers, or are they to do with the Hicas? I have had no experience with this before. Because of the RCA cables, (and whatever that thin blue wire is?) I suspect that the previous owner had amp and subs installed, and pulled out the power cables, when he sold (as well as the amp and subs - i own neither) because i can not find anything connected to the battery. If anyone could shed any light on what these things are, and possibly go all Sherlock Holmes and tell me what the previous owner got up to, it would be much appreciated! Finally, any suggestions on how to clear up radio reception is also welcome! will provide further information once i open it up again this weekend Cheers, Mick

Looking for a r33 series 1 or 2 boot lid and spoiler in the dark gun metal grey colour in the Brisbane area, or willing to pay postage for the right boot. Need it ASAP so please email or MSG me. Jake [email protected] 0426255586

Looking for some R33 GTR parts - must be in exceptional condition please. Our R33 GTR V-spec has been in storage for 10 years, in that time bits went missing and we need to replace them. The car is mint to say the least, so the bits need to be the same quality as the car. I know it is not going to be easy but I can only ask! Thanks. Contact Alan on 0414 915 267. Required parts are .... Boot trim. Spacesaver wheel (preferably never used, would consider a used one if its not noticeable, Note: GTR spacesaver is different to a GTS-T one). Jack and Toolkit - complete and preferably never used. Drivers side door window control unit on the armrest. (module with the power window switches and the part that clips onto the door trim). Front Inner Guard plastic - both sides. Front undertray. Rear guard lip, passengers side, located at the bottom of the wheel arch at the rear (where a mud flap would normally go). Standard wheel nuts. Strut Brace - standard with sticker intact and in exceptional condition.

As above, Cheers

WTB: Black blind & net, boot mat/liner, dash mat. Hello, I'm after the below items for our 2000 Nissan Stagea C34 RS4. -Black blind & net -Boot mat/liner -Dash mat Thank you! James

R34 GT-T Steering Wheel, Front Seats, Instrument Cluster Boot Lid + Spoiler Looking for R34 GT-T Steering Wheel, Front Seats, Instrument Cluster Boot Lid + Spoiler. Getting to the point where they're old, worn and need to be replaced. Cheers.

[SYD] WTB M35 boot struts I'm chasing a pair of boot struts for a M35. Mine are weak and don't hold the boot up. Happy to regas them or go aftermarket if there is ones that fit in. Just after a cheap solution!

WTB - VIC - R33 GTR boot entire boot trim, carpets etc As per title after all the boot trim, carpets, particle board insert and would entertain the spare tyre and jack. PM me and thanks!

Hi all, Thought I'd share my solution to holding the boot lid of my R33 GT-R up so it doesn't try and kill me. A little background: when I bought my car the gas struts were pretty dead. They'd hold the boot lid up but didn't really provide any assistance lifting it and a gust of wind or slight slope would send it falling down. The factory struts are built into the hinges, and are no longer available new. While my car was being resprayed I thought I'd get the paint guys to give me the strut/hinge units and see if I could get them regassed. Long story short I couldn't find anyone who could do that, but I did find someone who could replace them with new struts. The new struts were even modular so I could pop them of and change the amount of gas pressure in them as required to get them right. However there was a problem - the paint guys found the struts had fatigued the boot panel where they attach. I actually had to buy a new boot panel. We played around with the new struts, but basically anything with enough strength to hold the boot would require so much force to close that it would just fatigue the panel again. So for a long time I just had a piece of wooden dowel and a cloth to hold the boot up. Then my dad noticed that the bonnet stay from his Subaru Liberty would be about the right size, so we ordered one of those and it turns outs it's perfect! These are the parts you'll need. I believe Subaru sells them as a pack with everything you need. You'll also need to rummage up an appropriate bolt and washer (I used a Mitsubishi bolt from my old car). After we took these photos we also found the bolt didn't quite have enough purchase, so we made up a steel backing plate with little tabs on the end to hold onto so we could feed it into position. You could also use a nutsert. The prop comes with a rubber grommit that's the perfect size for this factory hole. You'll need to bend the prop ever so slightly so that when it's stowed it doesn't pop out at the end. You'll need to grind a little tab off the bracket - Dremel cut off wheel is your friend. The bracket works nicely mounted like this. I added some clear film underneath to stop it marking the paint too much. The prop rests nicely on this factory metal tab behind the right rear light. To get at it you'll need to cut a little of the boot liner carpet stuff away. This is what it looks like in position, stowed, and from the side to show how it holds the boot up: Anyway, hopefully this helps someone out. Please feel free to ask questions or let me know if you'd like more photos.

Hey guys, Anyone around the Sydney/Wollongong area selling an R34 GTT coupe bootlid in white? Doesn't need to have a spoiler as I have one already but needs to be in good condition (no dings, scratches, rust etc). Cheers!

Hi all I'm currently looking for a pair of tail lights for a R32 2 door, preferably with factory dark blue (paint code TH1) surrounds. I would also be interested in purchasing just the covers if anyone is just selling those. I'm also looking for a 2 door boot lid. Not worried about colour but would be a bonus if it had no holes in it. I'm located in ACT but happy to pay postage or travel if you're closeish Thanks, Nic

Wanted Mint condition R34 Coupe Trunk Lid Liner Msg me, thanks.

hey guys, need some help. was helping a random guy out to save him a long walk with his suitcase, when he put his suitcase in the boot he slammed it shut as hard as possible. now the boot it stuck and I believe the valet switch has moved down. now the shit part, the previous owner of the car removed the key from the rear of the boot so you can only open it with the lever. it still has the rotating Nissan badge, but you can just see straight into the boot from the hole. so key is not an option. I have taken out the back seat, taken the access panel off, but can't get to the switch because the guys suitcase is in the way, and the smart fellow put it on its side instead of flat so I can't go over the top of it to find the valet switch. I don't know exactly where the valet switch is in the boot, so if someone could take pictures. ones that are not direct close ups so I can try get at it with something long, just need a better idea of where the latch is. other pictures I've found are all close ups. sorry for disorganised post, written on my phone in a foul mood and in a hurry

Bootlid Wire Severed I know this is a fairly common problem amongst V35's as the research I have done indicates nissan didnt make the loom quite long enough, I was just wondering if anyone else has experience and fixed this problem. The wire from the button to the boot is severed somewhere, just wanting to know if anyone could give me a rough indication of where this wire is commonly severed or damaged. I have stripped the boot and traced the loom as far into the bootlid as I possibly can but have found nothing. Does anyone on here know exactly where the wire severed as I can imagine it would be fairly local and uniform amongst all v35's. Thanks

Hey guys, need help with how to go about moving the battery to the boot in my r31. I've read a lot of information On how to go about it, but I am still unsure. I know all the battery has to be in a secured box and vented (which I've already done), but I'm more concerned with the wiring and what goes where. Would be great if anyone could show pictures step by step, as I can't find any specific DIYs on this topic. I also wish to put a fuse in the boot as a safety measure, but once again, lack the knowledge and direction with electrical matters such as these. help would be much appreciated.

So, Ive put up for years with a leaky boot in my R33. I even removed and re-sealed the rear lights (and what a PITFA that was) but no change. So I finally got off my arse and gave it another go trying to work out exactly where it was leaking from and my best guess now it that I think the water enters through the boot lid where the GTR style Nissan wing and the boot connect. I can see that the sealant is cracked most of the way around it and I think water must somehow enter through bolts? holding the wing to the boot. So, the question; How easy is it to remove the rear GTR style wing? is it just a couple of bolts and then a case of prying the sealant/boot/wing apart? Have you done this and fixed the leak? thanks

Hey guys just wondering if R33 GTST boot will fit a GTR? Or are the boots different on GTR compared to the GTST

Hi guys, I'm pretty sure I posted these before but I can't find the topic. Got a full set of ceffy panels sitting in my shed that I need to get rid of ASAP to make room. Really need to get rid of them so throw me an offer! Take them as a package for $500 neg Doors $100 each / $80 for dented one - All four doors are available. The passenger front has a dent in the door but the glass is still in tact. They have glass, mirrors, window regs, handles etc. Except I may need to remove the handle mechanism from the drivers door if I can't fix the one in my car. Bonnet $100 - Straight bonnet with under protection bits. It will need a paint as it's had a crap respray at some point. Boot lid $100 - Straight boot lid with no lifting of bog etc. Located in Melton, pickup only due to size.

Just wanted to share with everyone some concrete information regarding replacing boot struts on R33 skyline, specifically the GTR but I am sure the information will be transferable. The reason I am posting is that there wasn't much information regarding pressures & the ability to remove the strut from the bracket (requiring drilling). What I did ended up costing me $110. Below is a picture I pulled from another thread, this is the part of the strut that is hard to remove. Very hard, but not impossible. What we did was use my 10mm spanner and wedge it in between the ball and the strut, then slowly work the it off. It looks like it's going to snap the strut and it ends up destroying it, but that's ok because new ones are cheap. This is what mine looked like in the end. We ended up putting 100nm of pressure in each cyl. It holds the boot fine with a genuine GTR spoiler. If I had to do it again, I would put 150nm in each to see if it holds any better, BUT that 100 works just fine. Any questions please shoot them through.

BCNR33 Boot Gas Struts Hi all, So, like many of you the boot gas struts on my car are shot, and 10kg plus boot lid guillotine is no fun. As the strut is part of the hinge and doesn't look like it comes off, I thought that while the boot was off for painting anyway it would be a good time to fix them. I did originally look at getting new replacements but the guys in Japan told me Nissan had discontinued them. Lots of people on the forums seem to have had them regassed or replaced, so I took them to a place that does that around the corner from my work. The guy said the struts go up to 1100N, but that with the hinge it won't fit on his machine so the only option would be replacement. The highest rated struts he has are 700N. I was wondering the following: 1) as people in other threads seem to have had a more straightforward experience where the guy just fixed/replaced their struts without any problems, does anyone have a recommendation for someone in Canberra who can do it? 2) does anyone know roughly what force the factory items should be pressurised to, and accordingly what force an aftermarket replacement would need to be capable of? Thank you very much in advance for your time and help, and sorry if this has been answered before (I did search).

https://www.rhdjapan.com/do-luck-carbon-aero-duck-tail-trunk-bnr34.html Hey guys, so I have done some real big time searching for his but no concrete yes, no. So don't hose me for "not using the search function". So is the r34 gtr (BNR34) boot lid compatible with the gtt chassis er34 I want to buy this trunk/lid for my er34 gtt 1998 as its the only non tacky looking duck-tail sorta look out there that i can find. If anyone knows if you can bolt a gtr lid on to a gtt chassis please let me know.

ITEM: R33 bootlid including gas struts LOCATION: Sydney (west), NSW CONDITION: clean straight condition - no rust or dings PRICE:$120 CONTACT: PM ITEM: R33 rear bumper bar reo LOCATION: Sydney (west), NSW CONDITION: clean straight condition - no rust or dings PRICE:$60 CONTACT: PM

Hey guys., NEW leather gear shift boot - $100 Does not include the plastic trim as I am currently using it with an Nismo Omori boot installed. Pickup from Peakhurst Heights of postage at buyers expense.

Black r34 gtt bonnet - BRISBANE Original black paint.Hinges and windscreen squirters are missing. Its straight and undamaged except it might need a respray on the top as the paint is blemished from an engine fire which can be seen in the pictures.The heat mat underneath is also damaged. Send an offer via PM if you need it.Pickup only at Algester South Brisbane. Asking $250.

Stock mettallic black r34 gtt boot lid - Brisbane Original paint is in very good condition [just dirty in picture] but the boot has a small section of rust around the brake light & surface rust on one of the wing mount holes. Pickup only at Algester South Brisbane. PM me for more info.