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Hey guys, up for sale are: SAMSUNG GALAXY SIII FOR SALE ALL BUTTONS RESPOND JUST NEED NEW SCREEN IPHONE 4 NEEDS NEW BATTERY, SCREEN IS CHIPPED BUT STILL FULLY FUNCTIONAL Samsung was only used for about 4 months before it cracked and we upraded. LOCATED IN S.E MELBOURNE PRICE: OFFER call or text me on 0402268872 or email me at [email protected] -Alan

Hi, are there any differences between the MAFs on non turbo and turbo skylines (RB25DE VS RB25DET)??? I suspect the MAF is knackered on my non turbo R33. Also what's difference between the green and pink labelled ones? I've tried searching but can't find much info and a straight answer. I recently brought the car and it has some major performance issues. I know non turbos are slow but mine is ridicilous. Honestly, it feels like it's got 80bhp max and that a 1liter Toyota Yaris would easily beat it lol. I've also been in a stock 2liter RB20e R33 with an exhaust and even that was twice as fast... It was parked up for a while so I serviced the car, changed oil, oil/fuel filter and sparkplugs. It gained alot of power but not as good as it should be. It had a broken cone filter fitted so I replaced it with a stock airbox+ filter but the car has lost power again but saw that the MAF was broken and the top has been taped up to hold it together. I pulled some of the tape off earlier so suspect that may be the cause and since then, it idles abit rough sometimes aswell but a little tap to bring to revs up sorts it out. Also the car has massive 3.5" straight though exhaust which I'm sure it's making me lose a huge amount of power. Am I right in believing that the ideal size should be 2.25 or 2.5" or wouldn't the exhaust make much difference?

hi - Pulled off my CAS to diagnose a no start problem and discovered a half broken splined shaft in it. I tried spinning the CAS shaft by hand but it seems siezed hence why it broke the spline. I had a look with the torch inside the exhaust cam where the CAS goes and noticed the other side of the broken spline shaft. I tried picking the broken piece with a pick tool but it wont budge.Not sure if it can. Could someone pls explain if that splined shaft is part of the Camshaft? Cause it doesnt appear part of the CAS. how do i replace it ? I hate to cough up on a new cam. cheers

after vigorous testing, i have fixed the clock on the interior of the R32 GT-R and i am looking for more dead clocks! i live in west beach SA reply here if you're interested or pm me. i am happy to come and remove the clock for you it will take me 10 minutes or so and it won't leave a hole in your dash. i can put the black clock cover back on your dash so your dash won't look any different. thanks, sam.

New to SAU and New to turbo Hey everyone, I have owned my R32 for 5 months and only truly had it running well for a few weeks. Its a RB20 with RB25 turbo. Also this is my first turbo engine I've ever owned and worked on. So far I've learned a lot. First week the turbo started to whistle. After removing the turbo I found the fins broke. Next week the ignition control module gave out and I went and did the z32 conversion also took the opportunity to change the ignition coils, plugs and pigtails This time the turbo went out again. I heard it something broke and lost all boost. The shaft itself broke clean. I have read that these ceramic breaks and its common. But I am wondering if the shaft breaking is common as well. Right before it broke, there was no heavy boosting. I was pushing about 5psi every shift just letting it whistle... Next turbo going in is the HKS GARRETT GT2530. I would like to make sure that the shaft breaking is a common problem or was it because of lack of oil. When I removed the oil bolt on the turbo the fluid looked consistent. Nothing alarming to where it looked dry. Any tips appreciated! I also attached a photo of the broken shaft.

Ok so after many years of abuse my poor re5r01a auto box has decided to spit second gear. So an now faced with a decision: 1. Rebuild re5 2. Buy a new re5 3. Buy an re4 as these boxes only came behind the 33 and 32 non turbos (as far as I know) they are quite hard to find I imagine (if you have one pm me). So my question is can the re4 (which is basically every auto behind 32/33 skylines be slotted in im its place ie will the loom match up and be able to work successfully? Thanks,

Broken Fuel Rail Bolt - Help Me, I'm F**ked! Hey SAU. So as part of my ever running saga of crap I have to deal with on my R33, some of you may know from my build thread that I broke one of the 3 fuel rail bolts. This likely happened from me over-tightening then a few jolts from some spirited tuning runs was enough to vibrate the head off the bolt. Sigh. Anywho, I set about pulling off the intake manifold today (what a b!tch!) so I could get an "easy out" on the bolt. Well, even as difficult as that was, things are now made even worse by the fact the "easy out" decided to break off in the bolt. FuuuuuuuuuuuuuuUUUUUUuuuuuu... I was even going easy on it..... So, to the point, I am absolutely struggling to drill through this bolt. I think there's a tiny bit of the "easy out" left in the bolt, but it mustn't be much. I've been drilling it with 2 different drill bits, one a "Heat Treated Tensile Bit" and the other a "Cobalt HSS" bit by Sutton Tools. I've been drilling for over an hour and getting seemingly nowhere Has anyone experienced this or something like it? Does anyone have advice on what I should do? Is there a mobile specialist that could take care of this f**king bolt for me? Any help appreciated. Thanks bros.

Ok. So I've made another post about my car not idling properly, being generally rough and having hesitation when accelerating. Now, if you've seen my other post, you'll know that I've changed my spark plugs, put some spitfire coils in, cleaned the AFM and everything was running fine still. The car still ran and was drivable. Now, only since I took off the TPS and tried cleaning it, the car is no longer drivable. No freaking clue why my tps would do this, but now when I press the accelerator, the car almost dies. It's responding to the tps changing resistance, but it's as though it's being flooded with air or something. But when I press it, the idle doesn't go back up, it stays at that certain rpm range. The video of what I'm trying to explain is at the top. Really need some help as I need my car to at least be drivable for tomorrow. Cheers.