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Found 84 results

  1. Alrighty guys so this guide/ build log/ r&d will outline how i installed the entire cruise control system from an a32 nissan maxima into my 2000 wgnc34 nissan stagea rsfours type b. So firstly I’ll just state I am just a 19 year old who has absolutely no qualifications, just an interest in electronics and car audio with, in the big scheme of things, not much experience at all. Take all of this information as just a guide and your own r&d as who knows, some of the things may even be considered dangerous! I do welcome feedback and questions though! Prerequisites and Warnings; If you can’t understand how to read, interpret and follow a proper Nissan wiring diagram I’d advise you not to attempt. You must be competent with a soldering iron and or crimping connections If you don’t know how to use all the functions of a standard multimeter do not attempt at all You will have to modify the clock spring, which houses the airbag wiring. This is a large risk that can result in airbag deployment if completed incorrectly then there is the obvious risk of fire/short circuit if any electrical connections are incorrect or poorly terminated etc/not fused i will not be wasting time showing you how to take your interior apart. if you cant workout how to remove your steering wheel/speedo cluster etc you probably dont have the ability to install cruise control into your stagea. Step 1 Wiring diagrams; The wiring greatly differs between automatic and manual vehicles, with the latter being far more simple as transmission control is not needed. It is probably possible with autos but I have not investigated if the transmission control systems share commonalities. I have included both so you can see the differences. Manual transmission Automatic transmission This series of diagrams --cruise control wiring diagram.pdf-- are the in depth wiring diagrams showing all factory pinouts, wire colours etc. they are just what a proper wiring diagrams are. within these diagrams there are various notes such as this one-- what i did was print out the full diagram and white out any unnecessary automatic parts of the diagram to simplify it. i also suggest taking note in this document ---how to read wiring diagrams.pdf---on how to properly read these wiring diagrams and most importantly for pinouts, understanding if a pinout is shown from terminal side or harness side. Step 2: What you will need A32 nissan maxima parts ascd control unit vacuum motor vacuum cable actuator ascd clutch switch ascd brake switch (looks the same as clutch switch, just take both switches on the brake pedal bracket and the clutch switch) ascd steering wheel switch ascd hold relay ascd main switch (can get a usdm d21 pathfinder switch i believe if you want the writing on it to be correct and not horizontal) note: cut off everything with any plugs etc included and give yourself as much loom behind it as possible (atleast 100mm or so), take all bolts/fasteners too take the clock spring and all the wiring inside the steering wheel becuase it comes in handy if you want to incorporate a dash light that says "cruise" take the maxima cluster and connectors too stagea parts you will need a steering wheel that has the large D shape side airbag bolt covers with brackets housed inside. i think series 1 wheels are like this but im not sure what models come like this. all i know is my rs4s wheel is smaller and doesnt have provisions for any audio control (left side) or cruise control (right side). second photo shows said bracket the throttle with second wheel bit (think this came on most autos but again not sure) parts you can get from any car the longest fattest section of wiring loom you can extract from a car (you could go try and find all the colours in maxima wiring diagrams, but i just used what i had and spliced the colours i had in between the maxima terminated ends. consumables and tools 6m of 7 or so mm split loom a heap of double wall heatshrink of assorted sizes electrical tape thats decent your usual pliers,flush cutters, crimping pliers, wire strippers solder and soldering iron pin removal tool and afew of them in different styles the most dangerous tool in the shop (stanley knife.utility knife) t50 torx socket t40 torx socket 17mm socket 10mm socket but seriously does anyone have any of these? phillips head screwdriver and tiny flatheads etc parrot clip leads for your multimeter (the spring loaded clamp ones that allow you to lock onto wires/pins) Step 3: modification (guess you could say fabrication) in this step il be showing you how i (poorly) mounted the ascd vacuum pump, actuator, modified the clock spring, modified the ascd controller case and modified the brake pedal. Clock spring the stock clock spring in my s2 rs4s type b has 3 wires in stock form, (steering wheel side) brown (batt12+), blue and yellow (airbag) The connector on the steering column side of the clock spring had 7 male pins as shown in this photo, (ignore the pen markings) so that got me thinking, if there is a 7 pin input to the ribbon cable there must be a way to add 4 more wires to the steering wheel side. see 7 copper pins through clear window in clock spring. i then peeled the sticker on the face back to reveal the clip that secures the steering wheel wires of the clock spring. to remove this cover the two plastic pins that appear quite butchered in the picture below (top and bottom) need to be cut down with a utility knife as they are melted down larger than the id of the covers holes to ensure if the two centre clips fail there is no chance the cover can come off. they need to be cut down so the "od" of the centre squashed pins are smaller than the "id" of the cover holes as shown in the picture. once the plastic "pins"were modified and free, the centre clip needs to be squashed together releasing the cover. the next picture shows the connection of steering wheel wires to the clock spring copper with cover removed (stock rs4s type b). you would probably find a tiptronic series 2 clock spring has 2 wires you could use for cruise control which means you may not have to perform these modifications. thats just a guess though, and i choose modifying my own over sourcing one to find out if thats the case. next, i cut the connector off the maxima clock spring show in picture below to add to the stagea clock spring. i removed these pins from the maxima connector with a custom pin removal tool that is inserted into the front and the plastic tabs were lifted up, releasing the pins out the back. the wires were then pushed through the stagea wire black sheath shown in picture below and roughly bent to where they would be soldered. (top 3 blue yellow green wires) i then realised there would be a spare pin available so i pushed a blue/orange wire through the airbag black sheath for any future use i think of. the wires insulation were then stripped about 4mm or so, and all were soldered onto the copper pads. (see blue/orange wire second from right). only 2 wires are needed for cruise control out of the 4 that i added total, but i happened to have the opportunity to buy a rare factory option steering wheel audio controller and knew this would require one additional wire, and planned to use that final blue/orange wire in some sort of a scramble high boost mode button configuration on the wheel, hence using all 4 wires. Important soldering tip: pre tin your wires and pre tin the pads. DO NOT put excessive heat into the copper pads at any time. this will melt the delicate ribbon connector attached to the other side ruining the clock spring for good. i did one at a time quickly (tinning helps this) allowing the copper to completely cool between wires. the base of the wires were then secured to the plastic with a small amount of 2 part epoxy. i then pushed the three pins (blue green yellow) into the stagea black connector with the brown wire (horn batt12v+) and there the blue orange wire is loose coming from the airbag connector wire sheath. i then checked continuity between steering wheel pins and rear of clock spring pins and ensured there were no shorts between wires, especially the airbag pins! once i new the modifications were successful, the wire cover was put back on. some material needed to be shaved off the inside to allow more room for the 4 extra wires. once it clipped into place with the centre clip, i used the soldering iron to slightly melt the plastic "pins" ensuring it would never come off, slightly similar to how it was secured from factory. thats it clock spring done! ascd vacuum pump and actuator All i did was mount the pump to the same bracket i had my catch can on in the back passenger side of the engine bay, and made a shitty bracket out of some steel and aluminium that i had lying around to mount the vacuum cable actuator to. this actuator is on the drivers side rear of the bay. im sure far more elegant nice mounts can be made up it works for me haha. ascd controller case (mounting) i mounted the ascd controller behind the drivers side kick panel on the relay bracket. first thing i did was remove one half of the ascd controllers case by bending out the pressed metal around it. once removed the outer metal case, i drilled out the 4 spot welds without going all the way through, removing the factory bracket. i then wire wheeled both the case and relay mount bracket and soldered the 2 together. the case was then put back together and edges bent back to secure it. the photo below shows the final product once completed. brake pedal in my rs4s there was only one weld in nut/captive nut whatever you call it on the brake pedal bracket for the stock brake switch. there is a second hold there but no weld in nut. there is also only one contact for the brake switch and no second one at all. for from my limited research i believe all autos come with both weld in nuts and both contacts ready to go (no modification necessary) (photo below shows view from behind with welded nut, contact and second hole with no nut) to modify; step 1 crack a bleed nipple on a calliper with a clear vinyl tube over it going up to a reservoir/drink bottle or something to collect brake fluid. this is necessary because you need to be able to push the pedal to the floor. step 2: push down pedal with your elbow or whatever and attempt to pry out that little rubber contact you can see in photo above. step 3: get yourself a bolt and nut ( i used a 16mm long m8 high tensile bolt and nut) and steel plate step 4: put bolt through steel plate (if the plate is less than 2mm thick you wont need to grind down bolt head) and push pedal down and put bolt through the hole where the rubber contact previously was and put nut on the back. align plate with the hole where the second brake switch will go and tighten nut and bolt with pedal pressed down.(first pic is side view showing bolt-2X1mm plate-pedal-nut) step 5: this step will make you want to give up. if you finish this you can finish the whole install. you will need a mate with a broom stick or some sort of long pokey device to push the pedal down while your upside down in the footwell. get the stock brake switch and a second nut in hand. get your friend to push the pedal down to the floor and get up in there and put the brake switch through the hole and try and thread the nut back onto the switch from behind. you will now have 2 nuts on the switch clamping it to the bracket. do not tighten down yet. step 6: adjust brake switch back and fourth, with your friend pushing pedal in when necessary, with both nuts so you achieve around 0-0.8mm gap between the switch housing and the contact. to see this you will need to get a phone camera up in there or something. step 5 and 6 definitely are the most difficult, curse inducing, hatred building, case of beer break worthy aspects of the whole cruise control install. step 7: put the brake interrupt switch in and adjust so there is 0-0.8mm of gap between the switch housing and the contact (now the bolt head) see photo below brake switch modifications complete! see photo below for photo Step 4: The wiring So you should have gathered a heap of body loom or wires of different colours from a wrecker/parts car already. ideally you want to use the same colour as the diagram but as long as you record what colours you use etc you should be fine. il tackle this section in the same way i did in mine, one page of the wiring diagram at a time. i will often refer to "running pin so and so to a given location" and in virtually all circumstances out of the car this wire run was a 1.5m or so extended length i had soldered in the colour i chose to the nissan maxima plug if that makes sense. where possible to simplify wire routing i grouped as many as i could in the one run of split loom and when i new i would have afew wires going to the same location i used a drill to for twisted pairs or a larger twisted loom. i ran 3 main "runs" of split loom, one to the main switch, one to the clock spring and any brake switches and a third into the engine bay for the ascd vacuum pump. i suggest soldering extended lengths of wire for all "runs" to the plugs/pins you will add such as brake switches, clock spring connector etc, then running these wires through split loom so they all end up at the ascd controller area and final soldering is consolidated to one location after all other connections are finished. Page 1 of wiring diagram (EL-145 main switch) and page 5 of wiring diagram (el-149)/ "run 1" of split loom so this page for the manual transmission diagram only has just the main switch wiring and ascd hold relay. first wire: pin 1 of the ascd main switch. this is ign power and it is the same source as the ign power for the ascd hold relay. what i did is i found luckily in my scrap wiring loom, a pin that is the same as the pins on the interior fuse panel connector. i chose to do this as factory as possible so i pulled out the fuse panel, bridged the ign relay and traced out 10A fuse that isnt used with the continuity function and found the ign output pin for this fuse. the first photo shows that bottom row, 3 from left (white out indicator) pin will give you 12v+ ign through the red fuse in photo 2 with the white out on it (bottom row 2 from far left) to add the female pin to the harness side connector i sourced the same pin out of the scrap loom i had which looks like the photo below. according to the wiring diagram this wire runs to the main switch (which goes rhs of steering wheel next to fog light switch in speedo cluster surround) and also the ascd main switch (mounted on the ascd controller relay bracket) so i ran the wire off the pin back down the loom towards the mass of wires inside the upper part of kick panel (as a sub loom) then, as i earlier spliced a second wire into the long length (made a y split), i ran one side down to where the ascd relay mounts and one forward out the dash where the ascd switch goes. just incase your connector falls apart like mine did (dont fully take out the inner pin securing backing plastic on connector, i learnt the hard way) here is the wire colours and placement on the connector. the pink/blue wire is the pin i added that connects to third from left as referred to before and the fuse. now pin 4 and 6 of the main switch are both just grounds (pin 6 shows it goes to el-ill or the speedo cluster but upon further investigation its just a ground). i soldered pin 4 wire to pin 6 wire 100mm or so down from the connector and then ran the ground wire right down to where the ascd relay is (same run as the 12v ign+ pin 1 wire). pin 2 and 3 wires were ran down to where the ascd relay is and pin 5 wire was ran 150mm or so down the run of wires then came out of the loom as it were to go to the speedo cluster. now page 5 (el-149) shows pin 7 (speed sensor) and pin 13 (cruise lamp indicator) both go to the combination metre (speedo cluster) so i ran these lengths of wire up the same split loom as the ascd main switch wires, and had them come out in the same spot as the pin 5 of the switch to form a sub loom that heads towards the cluster. (photo below shows 3 speedo sub loom wires before i moved them 150mm down the loom for neater routing. a thicker gauge ground wire with ring terminal crimped and soldered to the end is then thread up "run 1" from the ascd relay area up to where the "Y" is that goes off in the sub loom to the fuse panel connector. this ring terminal is bolted to the common ground thats really obvious just above the large opening in the kick panel metal. pin 2 of the ascd hold relay is crimped and soldered with the ground (pin 4 of the ascd main switch), and pin 3 of the ascd controller to the other end of the thicker ground (down at the ascd relay to form one large common ground for everything. so this "run 1" loom, from ascd main switch to ascd hold relay/ascd controller" has all 6 wires from the switch, a ground and the ign 12v+ fuse panel wire thats splits off in the middle , then 3 split off to the speedo (pin 7 of controller speed sensor, pin 13 of controller cruise lamp, and pin 5 of the main switch the illumination). Page 1 (EL-145),2 (EL-146),3 (EL-147) or "Run 2" of split loom this will be split into 2 sections, brake switch interrupts and clock spring connector. all wires in this section run down the same loom Brake switches so following on from the first section or "run 1" of loom, pin 2 of the ascd main switch on diagram EL-145 when you simplify it, ties into pin 3 of the ascd hold relay, pin 4 of the ascd controller and also then goes off to pin 1 of the ascd clutch switch. what i did here is i connected all 4 wires together in one location down where the ascd hold relay/ascd controller is. the photo below shows run 1 coming in and hidden under heatshrink and tape this 4 way junction takes place and the green/black wire thats visible is now going off in run 2 towards the clutch switch. also in "run 2" a length of wire is ran from the ascd controller area to the brake switch area to connect to pin 5 of the controller and pin 2 of the brake switch. another run of wire is ran from the ascd controller area to the brake switch area through "run 2" split loom to connect to pin 11 of the ascd controller and splice into the factory brake pedal pin 1 (this is the stop lamp switch, sends +12v to the ascd controller when pressed like your brake light) thats it for the brake switch part. will continue the next sections in more comments as this is way too long for poor old sau and its lagging heavily (probably my crappy late 2011 macbook pro)
  2. TheKenso

    Hi ther, i have a problem that came after i changed my baulbes in my AC, replaced them with LED's and my cluster started messing up, Fule and Engien heat is always on max, spedo don't work, and RPM bounces on 500-1000rpm on idel and under full pupp it only goes up to 3000rpm, and the KM on the car reads 999999. Changed back to my normal baulbes and cheked the wiers to chek if ther was any faulty wiers behind the AC unit but coudent finde anything, changed back to my old Baulbes and it stil dosent work. I alsow blew the fuse for "Tail L" wile replacing the baulbes and have replaced the fuse. So, what can be the problem? Can i have messed up the cluster and blew a resistor? is ther a relay that have exploded? I have had the AC unit and CD player out 6-7 times and tried to turn the key on and off, and sometimes it works like it shoud somtiems it just a bit faulty shoing way to hige RPM and the wrong KM (shows about 116k the car has traveld 160k) Sorry if the post is messy, im not always that good at explaning things
  3. So, I've recently purchased a C34 Stagea with the legendary RB25DET engine. It was brought to my attention that I cant drive a turbocharged car on my green P's. I was un-aware of this because im from NZ and there were no restrictions on engine size there so it never crossed my mind. I'm also on green p's only because I am under 20 I transfered my New Zealand full licence and have my green P's until I'm twenty in January. So anyway I came to discover that I can get an exemption since it's power to weight ratio is under the limit. I went onto the raws website and screenshotted and printed off the details of the car, weight and engine power output. took it into the department of transport and they said they couldn't use it and that I need a letter from nissan stating the weight and power output. I emailed nissan Australia and Nissan Japan and they both said they couldn't help thats when i found the raws website but apparently that's un-usable, completely wasted my time waiting at the department of transport for nothing which is always fun... If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated! Dont wanna go selling it straight after buying it. Thanks!
  4. Hi All, I have a couple of parts for a C34 Stagea for sale set of THULE roofracks with the wind fairing - $300 Cargo Blind - great condition - $120 Pickup, Canberra
  5. I'm after the front bar from the C34 Nismo kit (or a replica). Willing to pick up from VIC/SA/NSW or I guess I can see what it'd cost to post from further Any colour, any (repairable) condition. Like this one:
  6. Hi ther, Seams like my Stagea rear diff have sailed of to the limbo betwhen life and death, and want to know what i can put in it? Frome som reacerch the Stagea have an R200 diff, witch means ALOT of funn options! But i alsow know i need the same rations as the one i have. I want to put in an LSD in it, and wondering if im gonna get my hands on a s13 or s14 LSD because they are easy to obtain and can handel the driving i do with the car. But then i wonder, if i just change the intestens of the diff, and leav the pinjong wheels from my existing diff, wil i have the same ratio as i have now? im not to edjucated in this, and googel havent given me any good answers! And to somthing in the completly diffrent end of hte car! I got myself a set of rb26dett Coils, because i found out that rb25det s2 and rb26dett coils was supose to fit, BUT, the conektors are diffrent, and wondering, can i just repin the original wiering with new rb26dett conektors? Or is ther anything more i need to think about? Hope somone can clearefy a few things for me!
  7. heya guys and gals. spent the last 45 minutes fishing around for info on this... however every link that looks like it would lead me to the answers i need on here appears to be dead. basicly. what front driveshafts/CVs are interchangable with my s1 c34 stagea? (r32/33/34 gtr?) mine are absolutily shagged. clunk around corners, shudder at speed etc. between that and my shagged CAS the cars turned into a pig to drive. if anyone can steer me in the right direction, much appreciated. dan
  8. as above can anyone help me with the ecu pinout. it works in the car just does not communicate with the autobox so I think some pinouts are different
  9. OK kids, the images tell the story, some threads missing, drivers mat worn as expected. Rubber backed, thick pile, cigarette burn in the small one. seems someone has cut the drivers one to fit a manual but has stitched the edge back well. Definitely not perfect. Feel free to request more images, inspections welcome Mascot, NSW 0401 454406 or PM $100 + Postage - be warned they are heavy and large so postage could be hexi.
  10. Hi all, I am desperately searching for a rear seat for my 2001 Stagea. Please see photo for the design on the fabric in the middle
  11. Anyone out there know where I can purchase a compliant towbar for my missus C34 S2 Stagea RS? We've had the car for nearly ten years and I'm sick of her whining. Lol. Needs to be rated at least 1200kg.
  12. psyberwolf

    [WTB] Stock c34 rims/wheels hey all, just looking to get some stock c34 wheels/rims as showing in the picture below. let me know your price Im located in SA.
  13. C34 Series 2 - Gremilin with starting Hi All, I have a frustrating problem. A few weeks ago my car was broken into, barrel lock ripped out and battery flattened. Fine, charged battery and now I start the car with a screwdriver. My issue is the car doesn't start every time now, seems to be quite random, probably starts 50% of the time. When it does start, it roars into life in well under a second and runs like a clock. When it doesn't it just cranks and cranks without a hint of getting started, which made me believe it was a sticky relay or dodgy earth. I have since replaced or swapped around all the relays and inspected and cleaned all the earths i could find (about 5 in engine bay and one in the driver's kick panel). Oh, and I can hear the fuel pump working regardless of it not starting. Battery voltage is 13.2v, but the starter still sounds fine with this. There are also no ECU codes. I have searched far and wide and can't find a solution. Would anyone have any ideas on what to do next? Should I just get an auto elec in? Pulling my hair out!
  14. C34 series1 splash gards wanted After some parts for my series one stagea. Both front gard liners/ splash gards. Drivers side air con vent And the plastic trim that has the fues box in it in good condition. If anyone has these parts please let me know thanks heaps James
  15. 41RUS

    Hello everyone, I've got 96 Stagea (RS Four). Some days car works perfectly fine, others it becomes jerky straight away after start without 4wd light coming on. When the 4wd light comes on it reads as code 54 (Pressure switch and circuit). Car gets very jerky at low speed, especially if turning. If I turn the engine off and back on it erases the 4wd error and car works fine. Fluid for 4wd system is at adequate level. MAF had been replaced. I'm just wondering if anyone had the same problem or you guys know what might be the issue. P.S. Please forgive me if I sound silly as English is not my first language.
  16. gogglez-10

    Hey just wondering if anyone can confirm whether or not this is a genuine blitz nur exhaust or not has a jasma plate underneath the cannon Cheers Darren
  17. Hey guys and girls... got an ad on gumtree if you cbf looking it up. Located NOR Perth, WA - 0422194264 Got some random left over parts that came from a silver c34 series 1 stagea. heres a list: Super stupidly rare grille (Series 1) - I think it is off a 25gx and there were stuff all of those imported and its the only one in Perth that I am aware of. $275 Pair of silver mirrors (with blind spots stuck on lol) - $80 Stagea door scuff plates (pretty rare) - $125 Greddy blue high flow panelair filter (Brand new - dont wait to order from Japan when you can have it now - $75 Silver rear bumper - $100 R34 silver bov piping (connects to black pipe which connects to BOV) - $10 3 rear baby seat clips (on roof cargo bay area) middle clip cover snapped off on one (would suit someone who needs one or 2 covers?) grey in colour - $10 Supa cheap red pod filters (have one that was used for 2000kms and another that was on the car b4 i bought it so pretty old and little bit faded) - Good one $15 , old one $5 Nismo radiator cap (silver one) i think it suits most nissans so prob s13/s14/s15, r32/r33/r34, and obviously stagea - $60 Nismo oil filler cap (silver) suits same cars as above probably - $60 Also have set of shocks/springs combo I bought off someone over east on SAU - told me had done 110000kms and I used for maybe 10000kms or so (was told it had lowered rear springs but pretty sure they are stock height but fronts def lower) - It has stock front shocks with rsr springs and rear kyb agx damper adjustable shock with stock springs - $250 Front driver seat - $50 Also an apexi BOV ($50) and 4 contipro sport tyres - good for skids/drift ($50) Local buyers preferred but can possibly do freight on most items, as long as you pay for it to be collected from my house on a weekend? lol but you will have to pay for boxes, and tape coz I don't have any... May do a slight reduction in price if you bundle 3 or more items, otherwise I'm more than happy to wait until someone pays what I'm asking Prefer txt message or email (peter-toth@hotmaildotcom) as I don't go on here anymore Pics are old and have stuff that have already been sold (ONLY ABOVE ITEMS ARE STILL AVAILABLE) can send new pics upon request, cheers, Peter
  18. Chasing a set of C34 stagea coilovers for my S1 RS4 auto stagea. inbox please.
  19. killeran

    So this is what my car looked like the day I bought it, complete with Dolphin body kit Yep nice and clean, note the ACT plates (you guys have lovely roads). Well this was very short-lived, after introducing the Stagea to the 'fantastic' roads we have to offer in NSW it wasn't long until it was copping a few bumps and scrapes. Then one dark night a chopped up drum of some kind was left in the middle of the road in an 80km/h zone which fatefully met with my front bumper causing much damage and distress. It wasn't a good look, but I didn't want to spend the time and money fixing it with the thought that somewhere down the track it might happen again. So I thought why not clean it up and create a custom front bumper! I was forced to drive around for about a week without a front bumper since I was having problems with my forester... and somehow escaping the glares of about 6 cop cars we made it without incident and re-attached the bumper today! I've grown fond of the look (although my black FM Intercooler is now a bit visible), what does SAU think?
  20. Clearing out some excess Stagea bits I have. Get rid of that unsightly orange and make you car look like this: The orange and yellow inside lenses have been removed from the blinkers to give a clean clear appearance, especially with the use of "stealth" or "chrome" bulbs. They have been opened & resealed (not by me) I have used them for years and they did not leak. NB. The images don't show it but there is a slight yellow tinge to the plastic lenses as most of these this age do. Inspections welcome Mascot NSW $75 for the set. Happy to post @ buyers cost call 0401 454 406 or PM More bits to come.. Thanks for watching
  21. Hi guys, my ECU fuel pump circuit is basically fried so car is dead in the water at the mechanics, wondering if anyone has a second hand RS4s (manual) ECU laying around they're willing to part with ? model no: 23710 0V801 JECS TM either that or an Apexi PFC to suit... (R34 GTT) I'm located in melbourne... would prefer local pickup Tomas
  22. ttek

    Hello SAU, I've been using the forums for awhile now to find useful information - so thanks in advance! Today I've finally joined and the reason for my first post is to call out for help in identifying the rear lip as shown below. I have been searching around for a replacement, but haven't been able to find the same one. Alternatives are available (such as DAYZ or full rear bar update), but seem to take the styling a little too far for my liking. Any help would be appreciated.
  23. 1997 Nissan Stagea RS4 Up for sale is my 97 Series 1 Nissan Stagea. May consider swaps + cash my way for something a little more economical.. May even consider if a JZX100 or S13/S15. The car runs great and has a really nice and unique bodykit. Gearbox overhauled only a few months ago with new HD clutch - Receipts for $1800. Have some other receipts from the two years I've owned the car. Bad points are shitty paint on bodykit and CVs just started clicking at full lock. Features: AWD RS4 Edition (very easily made RWD if that's your thing) Dual sunroofs Lowered on BC BR coilovers at the front (I have the rears but they're not installed - they sat the car too low!) R34 GTR front brakes R33 brakes in rear Adjustable tein castor arms Full kit 18" VRS Japanese 3 piece wheels Front mount intercooler 3" stainless Apexi exhaust dump back (sounds amazing!) R33 GTR gearbox (manual conversion done in Japan) K&N pod filter Upgraded fuel pump strut brace Boost gauge Kenwood bluetooth head unit Rare factory cargo net Two amps supplying power to a 12" sub, 4 JBL 6 inch speakers and 2 tweeters Interior in great condition Kilometres: 169000 Transmission: Manual Drive Train: All Wheel Drive Fuel Type: Petrol - Premium Unleaded Colour: White Air Conditioning: Yes Registered: Yes Ph 0414956873 Email mpearson_3@live.com
  24. Two are up for sale,both in good working order Pickups from Mt.Gravatt/Brisbane Can drop them off locally or send registered mail PM to contact -1998 r34 gtt starter motor from series two NEO rb25det $70 ono -1999 rs4s AWD Stagea starter motor also from series two NEO rb25det $70 ono
  25. Old school Omori mechanical boost gauge Old school omori boost gauge Includes original plugs/wiring and a little bit of vacuum line. Thomastown Victoria $130ono Freight available to business addresses only. (Sick of paying postage fees when TNT has to redeliver) MESSAGE ME ON 0411-421-097 I AM NOT ALWAYS ON HERE SO WILL DEFINATELY MISS AN INBOX MESSAGE.