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Build Thread

  1. Hi All I've done a lot of reading on here about what people are doing for turbo replacements and 99% of the time people have or are looking at upgrades - exhaust etc. and the discussion seems to revolve around that. I'm a little old-fashioned and my car is stock and prefer to keep it that way so am looking for a turbo to suit. I want a bolt up solution and I noticed a lot of you lads talk about the CGC high-flow. I just rang them and they said that if I were to do that, the car would require a tune and would not run right without. Is this accurate? Am I to understand that the stock ECU cannot be tuned so this is not a solution as I don't really want to stuff around too much. Has anybody here done this i.e bolted a CGC high-flow to an otherwise stock car? What were the results? Did it run OK as is? Any advice or help would be much appreciated. Thanks all
  2. Hellow and happy new year! I have had the pleasure having my ignition barrle crap out on me so i am unable to start my car. And therfor im trying to finde an ignition barle wiering diagram or somthing htat tels me the collor of the wiers, location and what they do since im trying to put in a "push to start" until i can sorce a new one!
  3. New to the stageas but I've been told that for a s1c34 awd auto stagea Im able to use a r34 auto nistuned ecu. Is this correct?
  4. The Arctopus

    Gravy

    From the album: Arctopus album

    Its hard to find original locations to take pictures in.
  5. I'm after the front bar from the C34 Nismo kit (or a replica). Willing to pick up from VIC/SA/NSW or I guess I can see what it'd cost to post from further Any colour, any (repairable) condition. Like this one:
  6. as above can anyone help me with the ecu pinout. it works in the car just does not communicate with the autobox so I think some pinouts are different
  7. Hi ther, i have a problem that came after i changed my baulbes in my AC, replaced them with LED's and my cluster started messing up, Fule and Engien heat is always on max, spedo don't work, and RPM bounces on 500-1000rpm on idel and under full pupp it only goes up to 3000rpm, and the KM on the car reads 999999. Changed back to my normal baulbes and cheked the wiers to chek if ther was any faulty wiers behind the AC unit but coudent finde anything, changed back to my old Baulbes and it stil dosent work. I alsow blew the fuse for "Tail L" wile replacing the baulbes and have replaced the fuse. So, what can be the problem? Can i have messed up the cluster and blew a resistor? is ther a relay that have exploded? I have had the AC unit and CD player out 6-7 times and tried to turn the key on and off, and sometimes it works like it shoud somtiems it just a bit faulty shoing way to hige RPM and the wrong KM (shows about 116k the car has traveld 160k) Sorry if the post is messy, im not always that good at explaning things
  8. Alrighty guys so this guide/ build log/ r&d will outline how i installed the entire cruise control system from an a32 nissan maxima into my 2000 wgnc34 nissan stagea rsfours type b. So firstly I’ll just state I am just a 19 year old who has absolutely no qualifications, just an interest in electronics and car audio with, in the big scheme of things, not much experience at all. Take all of this information as just a guide and your own r&d as who knows, some of the things may even be considered dangerous! I do welcome feedback and questions though! Prerequisites and Warnings; If you can’t understand how to read, interpret and follow a proper Nissan wiring diagram I’d advise you not to attempt. You must be competent with a soldering iron and or crimping connections If you don’t know how to use all the functions of a standard multimeter do not attempt at all You will have to modify the clock spring, which houses the airbag wiring. This is a large risk that can result in airbag deployment if completed incorrectly then there is the obvious risk of fire/short circuit if any electrical connections are incorrect or poorly terminated etc/not fused i will not be wasting time showing you how to take your interior apart. if you cant workout how to remove your steering wheel/speedo cluster etc you probably dont have the ability to install cruise control into your stagea. Step 1 Wiring diagrams; The wiring greatly differs between automatic and manual vehicles, with the latter being far more simple as transmission control is not needed. It is probably possible with autos but I have not investigated if the transmission control systems share commonalities. I have included both so you can see the differences. Manual transmission Automatic transmission This series of diagrams --cruise control wiring diagram.pdf-- are the in depth wiring diagrams showing all factory pinouts, wire colours etc. they are just what a proper wiring diagrams are. within these diagrams there are various notes such as this one-- what i did was print out the full diagram and white out any unnecessary automatic parts of the diagram to simplify it. i also suggest taking note in this document ---how to read wiring diagrams.pdf---on how to properly read these wiring diagrams and most importantly for pinouts, understanding if a pinout is shown from terminal side or harness side. Step 2: What you will need A32 nissan maxima parts ascd control unit vacuum motor vacuum cable actuator ascd clutch switch ascd brake switch (looks the same as clutch switch, just take both switches on the brake pedal bracket and the clutch switch) ascd steering wheel switch ascd hold relay ascd main switch (can get a usdm d21 pathfinder switch i believe if you want the writing on it to be correct and not horizontal) note: cut off everything with any plugs etc included and give yourself as much loom behind it as possible (atleast 100mm or so), take all bolts/fasteners too take the clock spring and all the wiring inside the steering wheel becuase it comes in handy if you want to incorporate a dash light that says "cruise" take the maxima cluster and connectors too stagea parts you will need a steering wheel that has the large D shape side airbag bolt covers with brackets housed inside. i think series 1 wheels are like this but im not sure what models come like this. all i know is my rs4s wheel is smaller and doesnt have provisions for any audio control (left side) or cruise control (right side). second photo shows said bracket the throttle with second wheel bit (think this came on most autos but again not sure) parts you can get from any car the longest fattest section of wiring loom you can extract from a car (you could go try and find all the colours in maxima wiring diagrams, but i just used what i had and spliced the colours i had in between the maxima terminated ends. consumables and tools 6m of 7 or so mm split loom a heap of double wall heatshrink of assorted sizes electrical tape thats decent your usual pliers,flush cutters, crimping pliers, wire strippers solder and soldering iron pin removal tool and afew of them in different styles the most dangerous tool in the shop (stanley knife.utility knife) t50 torx socket t40 torx socket 17mm socket 10mm socket but seriously does anyone have any of these? phillips head screwdriver and tiny flatheads etc parrot clip leads for your multimeter (the spring loaded clamp ones that allow you to lock onto wires/pins) Step 3: modification (guess you could say fabrication) in this step il be showing you how i (poorly) mounted the ascd vacuum pump, actuator, modified the clock spring, modified the ascd controller case and modified the brake pedal. Clock spring the stock clock spring in my s2 rs4s type b has 3 wires in stock form, (steering wheel side) brown (batt12+), blue and yellow (airbag) The connector on the steering column side of the clock spring had 7 male pins as shown in this photo, (ignore the pen markings) so that got me thinking, if there is a 7 pin input to the ribbon cable there must be a way to add 4 more wires to the steering wheel side. see 7 copper pins through clear window in clock spring. i then peeled the sticker on the face back to reveal the clip that secures the steering wheel wires of the clock spring. to remove this cover the two plastic pins that appear quite butchered in the picture below (top and bottom) need to be cut down with a utility knife as they are melted down larger than the id of the covers holes to ensure if the two centre clips fail there is no chance the cover can come off. they need to be cut down so the "od" of the centre squashed pins are smaller than the "id" of the cover holes as shown in the picture. once the plastic "pins"were modified and free, the centre clip needs to be squashed together releasing the cover. the next picture shows the connection of steering wheel wires to the clock spring copper with cover removed (stock rs4s type b). you would probably find a tiptronic series 2 clock spring has 2 wires you could use for cruise control which means you may not have to perform these modifications. thats just a guess though, and i choose modifying my own over sourcing one to find out if thats the case. next, i cut the connector off the maxima clock spring show in picture below to add to the stagea clock spring. i removed these pins from the maxima connector with a custom pin removal tool that is inserted into the front and the plastic tabs were lifted up, releasing the pins out the back. the wires were then pushed through the stagea wire black sheath shown in picture below and roughly bent to where they would be soldered. (top 3 blue yellow green wires) i then realised there would be a spare pin available so i pushed a blue/orange wire through the airbag black sheath for any future use i think of. the wires insulation were then stripped about 4mm or so, and all were soldered onto the copper pads. (see blue/orange wire second from right). only 2 wires are needed for cruise control out of the 4 that i added total, but i happened to have the opportunity to buy a rare factory option steering wheel audio controller and knew this would require one additional wire, and planned to use that final blue/orange wire in some sort of a scramble high boost mode button configuration on the wheel, hence using all 4 wires. Important soldering tip: pre tin your wires and pre tin the pads. DO NOT put excessive heat into the copper pads at any time. this will melt the delicate ribbon connector attached to the other side ruining the clock spring for good. i did one at a time quickly (tinning helps this) allowing the copper to completely cool between wires. the base of the wires were then secured to the plastic with a small amount of 2 part epoxy. i then pushed the three pins (blue green yellow) into the stagea black connector with the brown wire (horn batt12v+) and there the blue orange wire is loose coming from the airbag connector wire sheath. i then checked continuity between steering wheel pins and rear of clock spring pins and ensured there were no shorts between wires, especially the airbag pins! once i new the modifications were successful, the wire cover was put back on. some material needed to be shaved off the inside to allow more room for the 4 extra wires. once it clipped into place with the centre clip, i used the soldering iron to slightly melt the plastic "pins" ensuring it would never come off, slightly similar to how it was secured from factory. thats it clock spring done! ascd vacuum pump and actuator All i did was mount the pump to the same bracket i had my catch can on in the back passenger side of the engine bay, and made a shitty bracket out of some steel and aluminium that i had lying around to mount the vacuum cable actuator to. this actuator is on the drivers side rear of the bay. im sure far more elegant nice mounts can be made up it works for me haha. ascd controller case (mounting) i mounted the ascd controller behind the drivers side kick panel on the relay bracket. first thing i did was remove one half of the ascd controllers case by bending out the pressed metal around it. once removed the outer metal case, i drilled out the 4 spot welds without going all the way through, removing the factory bracket. i then wire wheeled both the case and relay mount bracket and soldered the 2 together. the case was then put back together and edges bent back to secure it. the photo below shows the final product once completed. brake pedal in my rs4s there was only one weld in nut/captive nut whatever you call it on the brake pedal bracket for the stock brake switch. there is a second hold there but no weld in nut. there is also only one contact for the brake switch and no second one at all. for from my limited research i believe all autos come with both weld in nuts and both contacts ready to go (no modification necessary) (photo below shows view from behind with welded nut, contact and second hole with no nut) to modify; step 1 crack a bleed nipple on a calliper with a clear vinyl tube over it going up to a reservoir/drink bottle or something to collect brake fluid. this is necessary because you need to be able to push the pedal to the floor. step 2: push down pedal with your elbow or whatever and attempt to pry out that little rubber contact you can see in photo above. step 3: get yourself a bolt and nut ( i used a 16mm long m8 high tensile bolt and nut) and steel plate step 4: put bolt through steel plate (if the plate is less than 2mm thick you wont need to grind down bolt head) and push pedal down and put bolt through the hole where the rubber contact previously was and put nut on the back. align plate with the hole where the second brake switch will go and tighten nut and bolt with pedal pressed down.(first pic is side view showing bolt-2X1mm plate-pedal-nut) step 5: this step will make you want to give up. if you finish this you can finish the whole install. you will need a mate with a broom stick or some sort of long pokey device to push the pedal down while your upside down in the footwell. get the stock brake switch and a second nut in hand. get your friend to push the pedal down to the floor and get up in there and put the brake switch through the hole and try and thread the nut back onto the switch from behind. you will now have 2 nuts on the switch clamping it to the bracket. do not tighten down yet. step 6: adjust brake switch back and fourth, with your friend pushing pedal in when necessary, with both nuts so you achieve around 0-0.8mm gap between the switch housing and the contact. to see this you will need to get a phone camera up in there or something. step 5 and 6 definitely are the most difficult, curse inducing, hatred building, case of beer break worthy aspects of the whole cruise control install. step 7: put the brake interrupt switch in and adjust so there is 0-0.8mm of gap between the switch housing and the contact (now the bolt head) see photo below brake switch modifications complete! see photo below for photo Step 4: The wiring So you should have gathered a heap of body loom or wires of different colours from a wrecker/parts car already. ideally you want to use the same colour as the diagram but as long as you record what colours you use etc you should be fine. il tackle this section in the same way i did in mine, one page of the wiring diagram at a time. i will often refer to "running pin so and so to a given location" and in virtually all circumstances out of the car this wire run was a 1.5m or so extended length i had soldered in the colour i chose to the nissan maxima plug if that makes sense. where possible to simplify wire routing i grouped as many as i could in the one run of split loom and when i new i would have afew wires going to the same location i used a drill to for twisted pairs or a larger twisted loom. i ran 3 main "runs" of split loom, one to the main switch, one to the clock spring and any brake switches and a third into the engine bay for the ascd vacuum pump. i suggest soldering extended lengths of wire for all "runs" to the plugs/pins you will add such as brake switches, clock spring connector etc, then running these wires through split loom so they all end up at the ascd controller area and final soldering is consolidated to one location after all other connections are finished. Page 1 of wiring diagram (EL-145 main switch) and page 5 of wiring diagram (el-149)/ "run 1" of split loom so this page for the manual transmission diagram only has just the main switch wiring and ascd hold relay. first wire: pin 1 of the ascd main switch. this is ign power and it is the same source as the ign power for the ascd hold relay. what i did is i found luckily in my scrap wiring loom, a pin that is the same as the pins on the interior fuse panel connector. i chose to do this as factory as possible so i pulled out the fuse panel, bridged the ign relay and traced out 10A fuse that isnt used with the continuity function and found the ign output pin for this fuse. the first photo shows that bottom row, 3 from left (white out indicator) pin will give you 12v+ ign through the red fuse in photo 2 with the white out on it (bottom row 2 from far left) to add the female pin to the harness side connector i sourced the same pin out of the scrap loom i had which looks like the photo below. according to the wiring diagram this wire runs to the main switch (which goes rhs of steering wheel next to fog light switch in speedo cluster surround) and also the ascd main switch (mounted on the ascd controller relay bracket) so i ran the wire off the pin back down the loom towards the mass of wires inside the upper part of kick panel (as a sub loom) then, as i earlier spliced a second wire into the long length (made a y split), i ran one side down to where the ascd relay mounts and one forward out the dash where the ascd switch goes. just incase your connector falls apart like mine did (dont fully take out the inner pin securing backing plastic on connector, i learnt the hard way) here is the wire colours and placement on the connector. the pink/blue wire is the pin i added that connects to third from left as referred to before and the fuse. now pin 4 and 6 of the main switch are both just grounds (pin 6 shows it goes to el-ill or the speedo cluster but upon further investigation its just a ground). i soldered pin 4 wire to pin 6 wire 100mm or so down from the connector and then ran the ground wire right down to where the ascd relay is (same run as the 12v ign+ pin 1 wire). pin 2 and 3 wires were ran down to where the ascd relay is and pin 5 wire was ran 150mm or so down the run of wires then came out of the loom as it were to go to the speedo cluster. now page 5 (el-149) shows pin 7 (speed sensor) and pin 13 (cruise lamp indicator) both go to the combination metre (speedo cluster) so i ran these lengths of wire up the same split loom as the ascd main switch wires, and had them come out in the same spot as the pin 5 of the switch to form a sub loom that heads towards the cluster. (photo below shows 3 speedo sub loom wires before i moved them 150mm down the loom for neater routing. a thicker gauge ground wire with ring terminal crimped and soldered to the end is then thread up "run 1" from the ascd relay area up to where the "Y" is that goes off in the sub loom to the fuse panel connector. this ring terminal is bolted to the common ground thats really obvious just above the large opening in the kick panel metal. pin 2 of the ascd hold relay is crimped and soldered with the ground (pin 4 of the ascd main switch), and pin 3 of the ascd controller to the other end of the thicker ground (down at the ascd relay to form one large common ground for everything. so this "run 1" loom, from ascd main switch to ascd hold relay/ascd controller" has all 6 wires from the switch, a ground and the ign 12v+ fuse panel wire thats splits off in the middle , then 3 split off to the speedo (pin 7 of controller speed sensor, pin 13 of controller cruise lamp, and pin 5 of the main switch the illumination). Page 1 (EL-145),2 (EL-146),3 (EL-147) or "Run 2" of split loom this will be split into 2 sections, brake switch interrupts and clock spring connector. all wires in this section run down the same loom Brake switches so following on from the first section or "run 1" of loom, pin 2 of the ascd main switch on diagram EL-145 when you simplify it, ties into pin 3 of the ascd hold relay, pin 4 of the ascd controller and also then goes off to pin 1 of the ascd clutch switch. what i did here is i connected all 4 wires together in one location down where the ascd hold relay/ascd controller is. the photo below shows run 1 coming in and hidden under heatshrink and tape this 4 way junction takes place and the green/black wire thats visible is now going off in run 2 towards the clutch switch. also in "run 2" a length of wire is ran from the ascd controller area to the brake switch area to connect to pin 5 of the controller and pin 2 of the brake switch. another run of wire is ran from the ascd controller area to the brake switch area through "run 2" split loom to connect to pin 11 of the ascd controller and splice into the factory brake pedal pin 1 (this is the stop lamp switch, sends +12v to the ascd controller when pressed like your brake light) thats it for the brake switch part. will continue the next sections in more comments as this is way too long for poor old sau and its lagging heavily (probably my crappy late 2011 macbook pro)
  9. [SA] WTB : Stagea c34 Stock suspention Hi All, My stagea has bc coils and the ride is too hash for me, looking for some stock suspension to make it a bit nicer to drive. i have a manual c34 rs4s 2001 if that makes a difference as i heard the 4wd ones a slightly different?. anyway let me know what you got.
  10. C34 Series 2 - Gremilin with starting Hi All, I have a frustrating problem. A few weeks ago my car was broken into, barrel lock ripped out and battery flattened. Fine, charged battery and now I start the car with a screwdriver. My issue is the car doesn't start every time now, seems to be quite random, probably starts 50% of the time. When it does start, it roars into life in well under a second and runs like a clock. When it doesn't it just cranks and cranks without a hint of getting started, which made me believe it was a sticky relay or dodgy earth. I have since replaced or swapped around all the relays and inspected and cleaned all the earths i could find (about 5 in engine bay and one in the driver's kick panel). Oh, and I can hear the fuel pump working regardless of it not starting. Battery voltage is 13.2v, but the starter still sounds fine with this. There are also no ECU codes. I have searched far and wide and can't find a solution. Would anyone have any ideas on what to do next? Should I just get an auto elec in? Pulling my hair out!
  11. C34 LED Tail Lights Installed Ordered back in December and they finally got installed last week RizeJapan one off LED tail lights LED on the left, Standard on the right and a short youtube video to show all the different blinker/hazard patterns
  12. Wrecking a C34 stagea, silver in colour, S2 awd auto dual sunroof. All parts available except following listed item. Engine, engine loom, ecu, bonnet, front bar, headlights, passenger guard. Located Newcastle.
  13. Hi all, I am desperately searching for a rear seat for my 2001 Stagea. Please see photo for the design on the fabric in the middle
  14. I've got a 98' Series 2 Stagea and the 4wd doesn't work (See more here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463038-help-with-fault-finding-attesa-system-attesa-ecu-c34/#entry7685341) Just wondering how do i retrieve error codes relating to the 4wd system? I've got to the ABS/ESP computer (Also 4wd?) and a few forum posts reference a red flashing light through a hole or someone said it is on the PCB itself. I've pulled the cover off the computer and could not see a light anywhere (See photos attached). Is there another way to get the codes?
  15. i have two of these grills. i believe they are "dolphin" suit s1 stagea. fibreglass with mesh, mesh needs reattaching. $90 ea located in QLD currently on my phone. will upload pics tomorrow
  16. Hey guys, I through this in the stagea discussion thread initially... Looking to get a new car and thinking of offloading the Stag. It's a Black 1999 series 2 C34 RS V (rear wheel drive). Dayz front and rear bumpers. 123,000kms. Great condition inside and out. I had to replace the turbo some time ago which I did with a Garret ball bearing type of a similar size to original, apart from that and it being lowered (RSR springs - previous owner) and mags, it's unmodified. I've kept it serviced every 5000-7000kms and have had no major dramas. It is a great car and I will be sad to see her go, just looking for something a bit newer. Before throwing it on car sales with the other 85 stags that have been on there for donkey's, I thought I would throw it out on here to see if anyone's interested. Being an RS V rear wheel drive, black and generally unmodified, it makes it a tad rarer I guess and could be a good project car for someone looking to modify from a fresh start. It's never been dinged apart from a rear bumper on a gutter incident my girlfriend claims no knowledge of which has been repaired with the same bumper perfectly. I'm throwing it out for $10,000 NEGOTIABLE. Pics attached, I have more upon request. As I'm sure you've gathered, I ain't the biggest mechanically techy kind of guy, but I'll answer any questions I can. I'm based in Brisbane. Cheers, Dan Jacobson [email protected] 0414 509 159
  17. Hi all, Need to clear some parts, most parts are located in Cronulla NSW unless noted. Happy to post at cost. Brand new LS1 coil packs, with leads and bracket to suit, coils sit on the inlet cam cover/injector wiring cover. $500 R33 Series 2 steering wheel, good nick, complete with airbag, red stitching $150 R33 GTR rear Carbon Fibre wing insert. $300 Brand new GTX2863 x 2, can include rear housings to suit $2400 Used HKS GT2530 x 2 including actuators, missing a few studs, bit of shaft play nothing major. $1800 Stagea C34 Auto coilovers, used, unknown spec $400 R33 GTR ARC airbox, used filters are near new, missing metal retainer, $300 R33 GTR bonnet, used, $350 (located at Parramatta) Damaged R33 GTR genuine front bar, as pictured $100 (located at Parramatta) 1000cc Bosch injectors Sold pending $ C34 Series 1 Days Side skirts & rear skirt complete with brackets $180 C34 Series 2 taillights full set $150 PM me if interested,
  18. S2 Rs4s manual rear seat $100 (front seats sold already) In good condition, no major tears, burns, or stains. One small imperfection is shown in the photo below. Could do with a good clean. Includes rails. Photos of rear seat coming over the weekend. I do also have a set of door trims however they are pretty damaged. Can sell cheap if someone wants to strip the fabric to upgrade their trim etc. Prefer pick up S1 Rs260 Stagea front seats $300 pair Seats are in very good condition, just need a good clean and they'll come up nicely. Driver's bolster is a little floppy but no tears. Seats include rails. Door trims sold already, I only have half of the rear seat (long story). It's the base/seat part and is in good condition. For sale for $50, would be good for someone who wants to replace a damaged base eg: cigarette burns etc. Driver's bolster: Pick up from Valley Heights Sydney
  19. Two are up for sale,both in good working order Pickups from Mt.Gravatt/Brisbane Can drop them off locally or send registered mail PM to contact -1998 r34 gtt starter motor from series two NEO rb25det $70 ono -1999 rs4s AWD Stagea starter motor also from series two NEO rb25det $70 ono
  20. heya guys and gals. spent the last 45 minutes fishing around for info on this... however every link that looks like it would lead me to the answers i need on here appears to be dead. basicly. what front driveshafts/CVs are interchangable with my s1 c34 stagea? (r32/33/34 gtr?) mine are absolutily shagged. clunk around corners, shudder at speed etc. between that and my shagged CAS the cars turned into a pig to drive. if anyone can steer me in the right direction, much appreciated. dan
  21. 2001 Nissan Stagea C34 RS4S Location - Woodcroft South Australia Contact - 0404 556 480 Regretful sale, no swaps! Owned by a mechanical business; very well looked after and maintained. Most of the mods (including the Nistune) were done in Oct/Nov 2013 before our last NSW trip. - NEO RB25DET - 5 speed Factory manual - AWD - Metallic Silver - 2500KG heavy duty tow bar + new Hayman & Reese surround - Roof racks (currently not fitted) - Factory wind protectors - Just Jap stealth black front mount intercooler kit (new) - K&N panel air filter element - HKS ABFLUG Coilovers (front) – Tein Coilovers (Rear) - Hardrace adjustable rose jointed R33 GTR castor rods (new) - Adjustable rear rose jointed control arms (new) - Custom brake master cylinder stopper (new) - Nistune making 170KW at all 4 wheels on 12psi + dyno sheets (recently tuned at Classic Performance) - Oxygen sensor (new) - Spitfire coil packs (new) - Walbro fuel pump (genuine new) - Just Jap stainless steel 3 inch dump/front pipe (new) - JJP High flow cat converter (new) - Custom 3 inch cat back exhaust with anti-drone rear muffler (Exhaust by Classic Performance) - Alloy radiator (new) - Front and rear QFM A1RM brake pads - Turbosmart boost controller - Intake hard pipe mod - Genuine Nissan front strut brace - HID head lights 5000k (new) - LED front parkers, rear number plate and cabin lights (new) - Steering rack spacers (new) - Modified steering knuckles - Flushed brake system with Nulon Super DOT 4 fluid - NGK Spark plugs (new) - Steering rack ends (new) - Tie rod ends (new) - Front and rear diff oils (new) - Transfer case oil (new) - Nulon fully syn gearbox performance oil (new) - Coolant with super long life (new) - Aftermarket gear knob - Upgraded front & rear speakers + mp3 CD player Done at 100,000KM the following: (approx 11 months ago, all the Ks since have been highway ks) - Genuine Nissan timing belt - Genuine Nissan tensioner - Genuine Nissan idler - Genuine Nissan camshaft seals - Genuine Nissan crankshaft seal - Genuine Nissan rocker cover gaskets and half moons - Genuine Nissan gear stick boot - Genuine Nissan water pump - Genuine Nissan sway bar bushes and links General Specs Tinted windows (legal) ABS Traction control Airbags (driver & passenger) Airconditioning Electric windows Electric mirrors Central locking 12v socket in the boot Fold down back seats Space saver spare tyre We have always used Nulon fully synthetic oils and genuine Nissan oil filters every 5000km. We have towed to NSW twice with a car & trailer on the back with absolutely no mechanical issues. With the coilovers/upgraded suspension bits, the car did not sway with the trailer on the back (even at 110kms) and sat very evenly. There will be more that we have forgotten to mention, if interested please come and inspect. Mechanical inspections encouraged and very welcome. Will come with 3 months fresh registration. RIM & TYRE OPTION With factory/stock R34 rims & Federal Evo tyres - $12,900 With R34 GTR Rims & Achilles ATR Sports tyres - $14,000 (we would rather sell it at the cheaper ^ option) OPEN TO REASONABLE OFFERS – In no hurry to sell. (No time wasters)
  22. Up for sale is my Nissan Stagea Dual Sunroof Conversion Kit Kit Includes Front sunroof regulator with glass, motor (working) and sliding cover in great condition Rear sunroof regulator with glass and sliding cover in great condition. Grey dual sunroof stagea rooflining in great condition. Purchased for my 97 WC34 Stagea but dont have time to install. Asking $250 ono Inspections welcome. Located Doncaster Vic Can ship at buyers expense. Advertised elsewhere.
  23. Hey Guys, I am after a couple of body parts for my Series 1 C34 Stagea -Front Driver Side Fender -Driver Side Mirrors -Front Driver Side Headlights and Side Parker Lights In White if Possible but other colours will be considered Sydney Location If you can send me a pm or sms me on 0400 928 949 Cheers, Kelvin
  24. good afternoon all, i didnt want to start a new topic for a simple question but i cant seem to search and find a definative answer. im buying a new set of BC BR coilovers for my stag and im trying to work out the right part number with the guy. its a 1999 C34 SII Rs4-S manual awd. is the rear an eyelet or fork type ? they seem to have a listing for wgnc4 or rs260, but im sure the rs4s SII has something specific to order for. thanks for all the help. Glyn
  25. Hello SAU, I've been using the forums for awhile now to find useful information - so thanks in advance! Today I've finally joined and the reason for my first post is to call out for help in identifying the rear lip as shown below. I have been searching around for a replacement, but haven't been able to find the same one. Alternatives are available (such as DAYZ or full rear bar update), but seem to take the styling a little too far for my liking. Any help would be appreciated.
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