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hey im after a manual radiator shroud and CAS to suit a s1 rb25det, nothing too pricey though. im located in adelaide

Does anybody have a R34 GT/GTT/GTR or R33 GTST CAS (Cam Angle Sensor) (black plastic Hitachi type) they don't need? It can be faulty or old, no problem. Would love to pickup ASAP! Please let me know!

WTB - r34gtt / Stagea Neo rb25det CAS After one in/near Brisbane or I will pay for postage.

Started work on instilling aftermarket engine management on my stagea ran into a few hurdles one being relays and there location i understand the fuel pump has a progressive voltage feed ? and i know the relay in the kick panel next to the ecu is ecu switched but where is the coil and high current relay ? also the stock rpm gauge is it simple pulse or digital signal or voltage i have looked and looked but all i can find is circuits to convert was to aftermarket tach if i can get this working on the stock ecu wiring end it could lead to an aftermarket plug and play for the s1 stagea almast had it running today on the aftermarket then the relay issue arose so unsoldered everything and reconnected stock ecu fired straight up

Bit of background. So, car had been running rough for the past month or so where I’d get no power on boost at all basically almost felt like it was na. Checked for boost leaks, replaced plugs and coil packs compression test all fine still no progress. After about a month of scratching my head thought I’d check the ignition timing to see if that’s the issue. Got the coil cover off and CAS lose ready to adjust everything but as I went to check it all turns out my shit supercheap timing light decided to stop working. So, I put it all back together making sure to put the CAS back in its original spot so not to stuff everything up. Went for a driver and after about 20 mins car hesitated pretty violently jerking the car a bit. Kind of like fuel cut would feel like. And then 10 seconds later it all goes to shit and starts misfiring like crazy. Its struggling to stay at idle without me giving it some throttle. Then bam like the flick of a switch completely back to normal. and then a minute later it happened again misfiring like crazy. It stalls like twice as I’m trying to get it off the road to a side street its parked now and not starting at all, let her sit for about 5 minutes and tried to start it again. fired up perfectly normally and idled for a few mins completely fine and then again lots of misfiring and it died and wouldn’t start. I came back the next day to see if I could get it home because I only lived 2 mins down the road and f**k getting a tow truck for that. But same thing again stated fine got halfway there and it started to shit itself again, lucky I was on a hill so I could just roll her home. So in a nutshell Car has a intermittent misfire with no specific trigger. comes and goes every few mins. So, since its intermittent like that it’s pretty obvious its not mechanical issue. That seems like a pretty fair statement to make right? Therefore, its most likely a electrical issue. Something to do with a sensor or ecu. My best guess from my research is that its Either the AFM or CAS sensor that’s causing the issues. especially since i was fiddling arounds with the CAS sensor earlier. Does this sound about right to anyone? Thanks

Question for someone smart just done conversion put a rb25det into a patrol started fine free revved fine but when under load would start backfiring at 4500rpm so spark issue regapped the plugs didn't fix it so left it over night. Went out in the morning car wouldn't start and somehow lost spark and injectors. Took the cas out turn the ignition on and spin the cas by hand I have spark and injectors. Put it back in and nothing. I had the cas in but not seated properly and way off there it was ment to be and it started and idled. Put cas back in and still nothing. I'm lost can anyone help me?

Hi all, Haven't posted on here before, so hopefully this is the right section! Recently I encountered a problem where my R33 would not start. The engine cranks, but it will not catch and turn over. I checked all the basics: spark plugs were fouled, changed out with new matching plugs with same gap, coils firing, injectors pulsing, getting fuel, no cooling pipe leaks that I can see or hear. Eventually I had someone come round and the only way we could get the car started was to physically advance the CAS timing slightly and the engine fires right up. I'm running some light modifications: PowerFC (car has been tuned etc..) GTX3076r Turbo 740cc injectors Z32 AFM Walbro pump (not sure which one) LS1 coilpacks (direct on coil incl. igniter) Once the car is idling with the timing advanced slightly, the powerFC is showing 20 degrees, with my base ignition timing being 15 degrees originally. The maps and settings on ECU have not been changed since it was tuned several years ago and has run perfectly fine for years, so I'm wondering if I'm most likely looking at an issue with timing belt jumping some teeth? Any insight would be great! I don't have a timing light at the moment and wanted to see what some thoughts were before trying to start working out how to verify alignment of everything. Cheers!

CAS, numbers Hi guys, To keep things short, I am trying to replace my CAS (crank angle sensor), to try and make my car run properly. I have an r33 skyline gtst series 2. My friend has 3 or 4 of them (sensors), but doesn't know which type of skyline they are from. My question is, which models of skyline have the same CAS? and is there anyway I can look up the serial numbers on them, to find out which type of vehicle they are from, or if they would suit mine? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Ignition Timing Problem Hi all, I just purchased an R32 GTR (no modifications) and am having a few small issues that I am trying to sort out. One of the issues is that when I shone a timing light (set to 0 degrees) onto the crank pulley with the engine warm, at 950rpm, and AC off, it showed a timing more advanced than 30 BTDC. I had to turn the CAS all the way clockwise in order to get the timing to be at 20 BTDC. However, every few rotations, it would jump to a value that's not 20 BTDC. I just want to know if the ignition timing is supposed to be consistently at the same value or if it is normal for it to jump to another value once every few rotations. Also, after turning the CAS all the way clockwise, I am getting almost no power in low revs when the car is cold (engine does not stall if I clutch in and let off gas) so I am only able to drive extremely slowly until the car is warm. The bypass valve sound is more pronounced after the CAS adjustment. There is also more afterfires after CAS adjustment. Thanks for your time ! David

CAS sensor problem Hi guys, Advance timing = anti clockwise rotation on cas = higher timing value on pfc Retard = clockwise = lower timing value Right? The issue is, my pfc reads lower timing when i advance , and higher value when i retard. Will this point out to a faulty CAS or wiring between the 2 signal wires swapped around ? my mechanic recently did an FFP upgrade and he messed around with some of the wirings, because he wanted to tidy up the engine bay. Hoping if any can shed some light if its a simple as just swapping the wires or should i replace the cas?

Hi all. I'm currently wiring up a Haltech E6X to my 1988 R31 TI. The last two wires I need to connect are the CAS trigger and home wires. I cannot for the life of me find anywhere stating which one is which. You can see pin 17 and pin 8 are the two that I need to distinguish. Thanks in advance

HiAll, I'm wondering if anyone can help me please, I'm trying to test my RB25 CAS (Mitsubishi unit) and results are as follows. (Testing with CAS plugged in rotating by hand) Pin 3 seams to read 0.5v whenever shaft is turning and drops to 0.1v - 0.0v when stopped. Pin 4 cycles between 0.9v and 0.1v every few millimeters when turning shaft, and voltage holds wherever I stop it. I'm assuming this functioning correctly, but I cant find anything to confirm. This is in a RB25/30 in a R32 using a wolf V550 and I can't see any CAS signal or RPM input when I attach my laptop. I'm about to send my wolf ecu to be tested. Thanks

RB25DET NEO stalls once its warm Hey guys my RB25det R34 has recently developed a problem where the car decides to stall once it is warm, this tends to be when i am at traffic lights stopped or crawling pace, has also happened when ive been in the lower rev range but i have found that so long as i keep the revs above 3k rpm it doesnt happen. i have checked coolant temp resistances and they all look about right when cold its 3250 ohms and warm 230 ohms. The wires to the o2 sensor have been cut for as long as ive owned the car and worked fine for 2 months then started this problem so key points, -Dies once warm -Coolant temp sensor looks good -seems to be fine with higher revs car specs: STOCK RB25DET NEO with fmic, turbosmart bov to atmosphere, link g4 ecu Thanks in advance

I just needed the timing belt changed but even that turned out to be complex with this car. I knew I bought a well modified one but I expected most tuner garages would be able to set my mind at ease when changing a belt. I bought a new belt, tensioner, idler and water pump to go on, I thought that was easy enough but it took about an hour for them to get the uprated balancer off. I can say I got slightly angry at them when they attempted to use a crow bar instead of the correct puller tool to do this. Eventually they got the right puller tool and as expected, it came off nicely. It's good to know everything was nice and clean down there, no visible leaks, no major wear that needs looking into so I'm happy from that perspective. So, I did let them know that my timing was set at 20 degrees and that the intake and exhaust cams were offset at various mm settings on the HKS gears. Why on earth I found 'tip-ex' on the engine I will never know, surely there's a better way of determining the positions or some way of locking the cams/crank. If you thought that was a nightmare, this is where the trouble really begins and my mechanical knowledge probably doesn't help at this point: - The way they had marked it had the the crank offset by 1 tooth from its position (there is a little notch on the crank that shows this). They didn't align the gears and crank to where they are when you usually set a timing belt up because the said that the timing was different. I knew the engine was set up at 20 degrees so I just trusted that they knew what they were doing. At this point, all done, no interference and boom, CAS back on, in the center where it was marked with tip-ex. The engine didn't start, it just backfired and I'm suddenly panicking that they're breaking my car. So, they check a few things as they didn't seem to believe me when I said that I've never flooded the engine by just turning it on and off before so it shouldn't just flood randomly if it's set up properly. It does have big injectors though so I see their point. So after taking the packs off and checking all is where it should be, the engine, once again, backfires and doesn't start. Upon determining this was a timing issue, they proceeded to strip it all down again and at this point said they had no choice but to put the crank at the notch, put the cam gears at their set positions and try again. All done, ready to start and the car just started backfiring again and at this point, they were saying that I needed to get the person who built the engine to tell me how it was set up so that they could get it right. I pulled out my phone and gave an experienced engine builder a call who said that the problem sounded like they had snapped the little 'D' inside the CAS off and that no matter where the CAS was positioned, I'd never have the correct timing. We checked, and I had to put the builder on the phone with the mechanic as they were trying to tell me that I was misunderstanding but I knew what was going on now, the 'D' was missing from the cam and thus the CAS wasn't positioned correctly. The builder told them to inspect thoroughly that the piece wasn't to be found anywhere to confirm as this could have happened before at a previous timing belt change. This was probably the case because the metal that was left wasn't shining like a clean cut and was a bit dull and had bits of residue. Upon placing the CAS properly into the cam, it started up and sounded fine and was the bubbly little idle tick over that I have it set at on the computer. Concerns So, now I'm really confused at whether the timing is actually set up correctly at all. I don't fully understand the cam/crank timing so I don't really know whether the belt should be set up to be a tooth out. They did mark the positioning of the old belt with this horrible tip-ex the first time. Both times the crank could be turned around twice without interference so I'm now worrying that maybe the timing was meant to be out by a tooth. I do have 264 toda cams and I don't really know whether having the crank off by 1 results in anything opening earlier or later etc. Since it was always the CAS that was the problem, I never got to hear/feel how the car was/would have driven when it was on the original marked settings. I keep saying to myself that the marks were probably just done wrong by the guys there and it is now set up properly but ugh!!! I have always heard that if the crank is out by 1, the engine would barely run or at the very least, would be less than optimal. At the moment the car is driving fine but I've got this worry in the back of my mind that something could be wrong. I could swear it feels a bit laggier too but that could just be because I've been driven back to my home in my friend's R35 GTR which isn't as quick as mine once the turbo is going but has next to no lag. Furthermore, if it does turn out that the crank was meant to be off by 1, can this be rectified by adjusting the cam gears/CAS/timing on the laptop?

Hi everyone, first time posting on this forum so take it easy. Without thinking i've removed the cam angle sensor of my neo without making any marks. And making it worse i've turned the engine over a few times with the sensor off. I was just wondering how serious this situation is? the pin/input shaft that going into the end of the cam shaft looks like it can only go in two ways. So is it a 50/50 change that it will go in the position that it was previously in before i took it out? or will it be 180 degrees out of its original position and will send the wrong signal to the ecu. how noticeable will the effects be if it were to be in the wrong position. will the fix be as easy as rotation the pin/shaft 180 degrees? Any help appreciated Thanks.

Hey guys, first time poster, looking for some advice/help with my R33 S2 gtst. Pretty sure my CAS just died as the car cranks but wont start. A few weeks ago I took it out to get to my power steering pump and the key on the camshaft side was snapped and floating around. I managed to realign it when I put the car back together and it ran with no issues. Went down to start it yesterday and the car would not start. Cranked with enough battery voltage to start, ecu came out with code 55 so I have nothing else to suspect other than the CAS being faulty. I took the spark plugs out and they didnt smell like petrol. Going test with a multimeter to make sure but I had a question before I go ahead and buy a new CAS for $550 (if anyone has one id buy it for cheaper, im located in Sydney). I have a power fc I have yet to install, and I have not been able to find anywhere a Trigger kit that says it will work or have enough information of their page. Since ill probably have to get a new CAS my thought was why not just upgrade to trigger kit for around the same price, or just a little bit more. I'm not particularly aiming to make power that requires a trigger kit, but aligning the CAS everytime without the key is gonna get annoying. (I will eventually upgrade to tomei cams but am holding off until I finish the rest of the work I need done) I've had a look at most of the trigger kits out there (PRP, Ross, Hi Octance, etc.) but if anyone has any insight whether any of them will work with a Power FC that would be helpful!

Bad CAS symptoms My Stagea has totally died. Firstly I had a few instances of the engine randomly dying, just like fuel cut on an ECU. It happened a few times under acceleration, a few times while sitting at idle, and a few times while cruising. I had the chance to capture the glitches on my adaptronic 440. It was not a overboost cut, nor a leanout protection cut. There are discontinuities in the crank interval right when it dies, ie just before the revs drop the crank interval shoots up from a few ms to 10's or 100's of ms. Now it wont start at all. Before it totally died, it looked like it was going to crank over, but spluttered out several times (all with erratic crank interval data). Before I try replacing the CAS, what are the best ways to test it? Or perhaps the wiring to the CAS?

Hi guys, Have done some research on SAU and online but haven't come up with a definitive answer yet. Car details: bog stock except turbo back exhaust, aftermarket bov, turbosmart boost tee @ 8 psi, brand new yellow jackets, Milliseconds after hitting boost it feels like I've hit a brick wall (like foot is off the accelerator when it physically isn't). I'll try to accelerate again but instead it's an intermittent violent herky jerky motion as if I'm repeatedly on and off the accelerator. If I attempt to smoothly apply throttle without boost it may pick up again. Sometimes I will come to a stop and car will stall. While car is decelerating I can see the boost guage fluctuate according to the pressure I'm applying to the accelerator. Though not as pronounced, the engine sometimes will also cut out intermittently after a warm start on idle and stall...doesn't happen on a cold start. The other night also had trouble starting the engine from warm. It would crank fine but would only fire for a second then stall. Tried starting repeatedly and got it to idle fine after about half an hour of attempting. Thought it could've been coilpacks so I got brand new ones along with plugs and dropped them in but same issue. I've recently cleaned the AAC valve and AFM in the past month. I've read that it could be the cam/crank angle sensor? Possible timing issue - RnR? Fuel cutting? Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

HELP PLZ! R32 GTR Idle gets lumpy when car is hot. Hey guys my apologies for starting an other idle thread.But I have been searching for a few days and can't get an exact answer. the car is a 91 GTR with very light mods. N1 apexi exhaust up to the stock front pipe. Hashimoto radiator Yellow Jacket coil packs hks oil filter relocation kit and HKS pod intakes Recently replaced my AFMs with APH AFMs The Problem- the car has been running fine for the last two months but recently I was losing power and throttle along with the idle starting to sputter at random times. I was certain it was the dated AFMs. So replaced them with a aftermarket brand from cananda. The problem seemed to go away (so I thought).After driving the car around for about 30 minutes and allowing things to get warm the car just flips a switch and the idle will run shitty and it sounds like a go kart accelerating. Wondering if it could be faulty coilpacks or spark plugs. On a good note the car doesn't lose or cut out in acceleration anymore. When I cold start he vehicle it runs fine until things get hot after a while of driving for the day. Then I'll restart the car and have the same lumpy idle issue. Any idea what can be going on fellas?

Hey, I'm having some starting issues with my rb25det neo. Its in a pretty much stock R34 GTT with an Elite 2000. It will just crank and not start, but sometimes will fire right up. I'm wondering if its my CAS that is the issue, but once it does start, it seems to run great. It started this year after the Haltech install. Never had an issue before, and it worked perfectly for a week after installing the haltech too. The first time it happened, I could smell unburnt fuel, so I pulled the fuel pump fuse and it started up, so I thought it was just flooded. Now that doesn't work. I put the timing light on it again, and the crank timing marks were nowhere to be found. Took the cas off thinking the key snapped, but it was fine. Put it back on and it started, and I checked the timing again and it was lined back up. Its almost like the ecu was seeing the timing 180 degrees out somehow. This has happened multiple times now, including this morning. Some things I've tried: I've taken out each coilpack and I get spark from all of them while turning my cas, and I hear the injectors clicking too. I've synched my timing with the ecu each time. I've cleaned the cas with sensor cleaner. I've logged the ecu while cranking and it's getting signal from the cas. I've looked over some wiring and can't see frays or anything. Double checked my trigger settings, and they are the same as the original base map I'm nervous to drive around now as it seems to be random when it wants to start. And it seems strange that once it actually starts, it runs great. Any ideas? I don't know anyone with a confirmed working cas otherwise I'd try swapping to see it it helped.

Hi all, I have a question. My base timing is set at 20 btdc by my tuner, and im sure it was 20 degrees before this, but I have just put on a ross balancer, and whenever i pull stuff apart I disconnect CAS so as to check everything over before re-connection and starting. Now I had a tune 1000 ish kms ago and I had Adjusted CAS previous to that to 20 degrees, he checked it and locked it into the ecu, and said it was good. However when I adjusted it, I hadnt tightened the bolts right up. 2 loose and 1 just nipped up a bit. All would be good but i may have moved it when disconnecting. So I tightened it up where it was. Check timing and its at 15 degrees, now the only variable is the balancer marks, My old one looked ok, I thought it might be rotated a little but seems fine. Now i trust the ross one is perfect. So having retarded timing (i think) i figured no damage can happen, so i went for a drive, I only take it out every few weeks so I didnt notice any power difference. However I did a 4th gear pull right out and it had the odd cough feeling hesitation on full boost a couple of times and throughout the drive. It never has before. So ill get to the point, is there a way to tell where it should be vs where ecu thinks it is? Would the ross timing marks be perfect with stock balancer? Just need some confirmation I dont want to set it at 20 and it be wrong. Im sure iv just bumped it around a tad but not sure if theres a way to make certain so I hope someone can clear this up. Oh and I wasnt doing the 4th pull on the public road either. It was a local private air strip. Thanks in advance

Splitfire RB25DET S1/S2 Coil Packs, RB25DET S1/S2 CAS, R34 NEO stuff. Hello, Have the following for sale, located in Wollongong NSW (2500): 6x RB25DET Splitfire Coil Packs to suit RB25DET S1/S2 motors. Only reason for sale as went RB25DET NEO and have upgraded ignition. 6-8 months use in perfect condition - $300 Nissan RB25DET S1/S2 CAS, in good working order - $150 R34 NEO Intake Manifold, complete with rail and injectors, IACV, throttle body etc - $150 R34 AC Compressor - $150 R34 Engine Mount brackets - $30 R34 NEO Engine Cover - $50 R33 Turbo Exhaust Manifold, good condition/no cracks/straight/flat - $80 R33 Golpher Racing Radiator - straight/no dings -- old motor did blow head gasket very minimal oil, have cleaned out and bathed the radiator, but probably need a hot flush - $50 Can get pics if needed, but pretty sure everyone knows what it all looks like. Feel free to PM and I will get back to you if you are interested at anything. Cheers, Noobles

EOI r34gtt rb25 neo nistune setup EOI. Selling my type 4 nistune ecu and nistune hpx1 afm sensor. Located south side of Brisbane. Currently in car running. Will be installing new ecu later this year. Will post at ur cost. $550 ono.

Hi guys I have a complete rb25det series 1 engine here that I'm stripping for parts, almost everything is there and for sale the only thing I am keeping is the long engine Ill post a few prices up but pm me for a price on anything else... rb25det ecu - $130 rb25det s1 turbo arguably zero shaft play - $250 rb25det cas - $90 rb25det coilpacks - $130 rb25det igniter - $80 rb25det alternator - $70 rb25det ps pump - $70 rb25det a/c compressor - $90 rb25det exhaust manifold - $50 rb25det hamronic balancer mint no chips - $70 rb25det coilpack loom mint - $100 some price are slightly neg but no low ballers please located in algester 4115 but will post at buyers cost contact 0420 767 957 Cheers