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Hi all, as stated looking for a clutch fork from an R34 GT-T pull type gearbox. Also after the throw out bearing carrier or whatever it's called. Thanks in advance.

Hi All, Urgently wanting to buy an R33 RB25DET fan clutch centre located in Melbourne. Please let me know if you have one! I can come and pick it up today! SMS would be preferred 0 4 1 3 - one one nine - 7 3 5 Cheers, Jason

After a flywheel to suit a rb20 or rb25, don't care if it needs machining. Can pick up in Melbourne. Cheers

WTB - STEEL COOLANT PIPE, WATER PUMP, CRANK, CAMS AND CLUTCH Hi fellas, Trying to source the following parts for a RB26 (1995 R33 GTR): Steel coolant bypass pipe that screws into the side of the block (See photos) Water pump (See photos) Crank Poncams or Procams with assembly (Valves, etc) - preferably 270 degree Pull type clutch good for 450 hp (new or used)

WTB: Push Pull Converter Need a push pull converter, ie. OS Giken converter. In Sydney, cool with postage.

Looking for as stated. I am located in Canada, will pay for shipping and all. i have an R33 pedal and it sits too high. Please reply or PM me. Thanks!

Looking to buy R32 GTR lightened flywheel and clutch kit

So I just finished installing my new clutch kit on my rs4 stagea, gear box is in and bolted up. The car comes with basically the same gearbox as a 33 gtr with a pull style clutch. I was just about to put the slave cylinder back on but realised that I could slide the clutch fork along the input shaft with no resistance. after getting some light I could tell that the throw out bearing isn’t locking in to the retaining clip on the pressure plate like its meant to. whenever I pull back on the fork it basically just pops right out with minimal force. I’m not sure if I’ve just damaged that little clip along the way somewhere or its defective. So is it possible to just buy a new clip from the manufacture?? Or maybe I’m just missing something is there a special way to get it to engage or something????? Pls help thanks

Hello! I've been trying to look for a clear answer regarding rb clutches. I've read that NA Clutch Discs are smaller than the turbo version. So as the clutch cover bolts. I'm trying to look for a clutch kit and a lighter flywheel for my rb20de HR34. I hope someone can enlighten me. I'm a bit confused.

Have tried piecing together what could be the problem but can't find a definitive answer. Have just converted my 34 to manual. Bled the clutch about 15 times. Master cyl>Dampener box>slave. Slave does move and pushes on fork. Can feel a tiny bit of pressure on the pedal at the very end but the pedal doesn't kick back. What can I be missing? Could the fork or thrust bearing not be seating properly? Can start car in gear and drive but can't use the clutch at all. Cheers for any info!

r33 rb25 gearbox refurb recomendations Hey guys, After discovering I need a new clutch after 6 races at roll racing I have decided I misewell get the box fixed too while its out. Currently it crunches going into 4th due to those 3 clips popping off which were found in an oil change. Anyone had any personal experience or advice on who to go to in NSW SYDNEY? So far contacted the following with prices: -Award diff and gearbox seven hills (awaiting call back) -Smithfield diff and gearbox - $990 -Gearbox express in ingleburn - 1450 Cheers

R32 gtr clutch probelm Hi guys. I've got some problems with my clutch. I keep getting air in the system. I've bled it 3 times and each time after about a day I can no longer select a gear. I've checked around the clutch master and inside the cabin and found that there is no liquid leaking. The only known problem that I know of is that the vacuum booster popped a while back but I have plugged up the tube so it doesn't make that air noise every time I press the clutch. My question is that I've driven the car around for around 4 months with no vacuum booster without any trouble and now I keep losing the clutch. Could the vacuum booster be the problem or is it something else like the master or slave cylinder?

Hello, Need a new clutch that can handle about 500-600hp. I dont want to do any convertions for push type. I am interested only in pull type. I am thinking about this one https://www.nengun.com/nismo/super-coppermix-twin-plate-clutch Anybody has some experiences with this type of clutch? The set of coppermix include light flywheel .I have heard that the light flywheel is the bad option due to engine vibration and i dont want that. What can you recommend? The car is for daily driving so it need to be smooth in the traffic and push hard on tracks without any clutch slippery. BUT i dont plan to do any drag racing and launches from 8000rpm.

hey guys, have a 92 skyline gts (32) with a rb25de from a r33 swapped into it by the previous owner. to the best of mine and his knowledge, it is still the stock rb20 box. just curious on what clutch i'll need as mine has started slipping. cheers

Best clutch plate 2003 6mt Hi, I installed a stage 3 SS Southbend clutch and flywheel combo (SMF) a while back. I've probably done around 1000 kms since installed and it feels like it's already slipping (revving out, no/very little) power in 3/4th gear. I don't and never have thrashed the car and I don't ride the clutch. Not sure why the life has been so short with this clutch plate. I'm taking it to a clutch place to have a look this arvo, if it turns out I do need a new clutch, can anyone recommend a great Single Mass plate to buy for it? is Exedy any good? Thanks

Exedy Twin Disc Install/Help I just recently purchased an Exedy Twin Disc clutch for my GTR R33 (RB26), and I'm currently in the process of installing it. However, after pulling the tranny, ran into a bit of a problem. The transmission and engine won't mate back together because the fork(pull type) and the output shaft sleeve on the transmission won't let it slip all the way back together( there is about 3/4 inch gap between trans and engine). I was told something about machining the sleeve down a bit, however my local car shop that deals quite a bit with JDM cars, they said it should just bolt right up. At this point I would love some help from the experts here, any ideas on what to do, or has anyone else run into a similar problem? If any more information about the car or clutch is required, just say so, first post here! Car is a 1996 Nissan Skyline GT-R R33 VSpec, clutch is an Exedy Carbon Twin Disc with a lightweight flywheel. Thanks for reading!

Hi guys i have a 1994 nissan skyline r33 GTST. I use this car for drifting and recently was able to up grade the clutch kit to an exedy hd kit at the same time i fitted an exedy light weight fly wheel. Ive had my car back now for 3-4 days everything was running well feels great. Then this morning after returning from dropping my brother off for work i noticed the clutch pedal clicked. Now i know you are all going to try to say that it is the pedal itself the welds have broken.. belive me it isnt as i have replaced the pedal twice before and is a different noise now. if i put my head underneath the car and use my hand to press the clutch i can hear the clicking noise come from the bell housing area at the same time as the new clucth was fitted spigot bush throw out bearing was ll replaced by my mechanic with new gearbox oil.. clutch does not slip its holds up well performance is not affected at all... just being a drift car and taking the abuse it does just makes me question will it hold up or not?? so if anyone has had similar problems could you please let me knnow asap.. thank you

Left my 1993 r32 gtr sitting for several months. gearbox was sticky and hard to get in and out of gear but was still manageable. car sat for another month or so and is now stuck in neutral. engine on or off makes no difference. Please help!

I was driving in traffic yesterday on the m5 and I had pushed in the clutch a million times til I heard a twang like a spring or something. After that the clutch stopped engaging and the clutch doesn't feel the same when you push all the way down Not sure what might be happening. Maybe the master slave cylinder I'm just not sure

After a lot of headache asking for help, I have a r33 rb25det motor ( block number confirms) I got a rebuilt gearbox with changeover. Old gearbox had noisey bearings and crunchy 3/4 shifts, with a brief visual they looked the same. I upgraded from a exceedy sport tuff h/d clutch also has fitted a exceedy lightend flywheel to a NPC 300rwkw capable clutch for future mods, after fitting the new gearbox after elongating some bellhousing Bolts, slightly off compare to old mostly the bottom ones going through the backing plate.... there was excessive clearance between the clutch thrust bearing and touching the pressure plate. clutch slave cylinder push rod wouldn’t fit, after using NPC guidance there was 24mm clearance between, which they’ve never heard of, after fitting a longer thrust retainer to remove the clearance down to 6mm the clutch wouldn’t fully disengage, in gear foot on clutch turning the tailshaft clutch could be heard dragging and had abit of resistence to turn, whilst driving it was crunchy there was 10mm height difference on pressure plate clutch fingers when bolted to flywheel between clutches after drivability problems I decided to play around with spacing the clutch fork pivot and decreasing clearance down to 4mm but the NPC clutch still was dragging, so I decided to fit the old exceedy clutch that was working (now has been sitting for awhile) I fitted all the original parts from the old gearbox thrust retainer, removed clutch pivot ball spacing, now this clutch wouldn’t disengage at all, so I’m at a loss help.... summary rebuilt gearbox with new oem front plate where thrust retainer slides on new clutch slave cylinder, bolt pattern one on top one on bottom NPC 300rwkw clutch exceedy lightend flywheel 2mm difference overall height difference to factory flywheel apparent auto to manual converted new clutch pedal box everthing bolts up the same except for lower bellhousing bolts and starter motor needed to be elongated

Hi! Is the truth if clutch is without springs on discs or center hub it can destroy the gearbox while fast change gears? I have 520whp R33 GTR with ATS Triple Carbon clutch, after 2 years i crush 3 gear in the OEM gearbox - i know that is weak point of that gearbox and we can extend life of the 3rd gear by slower change but im curious about theory with springs inside the clutch?

Hi clutch gurus!! I was wondering if you could take a look at my clutch / flywheel / throw bearing and tell me if it requires replacing? The clutch plate looks like its still got a lot of meat left on it (I am no expert), and the flywheel seems pretty smooth although it does have some markings on it. The throw bearing its self was noisy before it removed the clutch, at one stage I couldn't even get it into gear unless the engine was off. A little back ground info also; I have only had the car around 1200 km's and I am not sure when the clutch was replaced, the previous owner did say he changed it "recently". I have done one burn out in it (fairly decent one). The next time I tried to do one it wouldn't even spin the wheels. I am not sure if the throw bearing was noisy prior to these burn outs. Is the clutch / flywheel salvageable and just change the throw bearing, or is she kaput and spend the cash now? Youtube video of the throw bearing in action

Hey guys. I'm currently in the process of building my track s14 for time attack/sprint days and I need to decide on a clutch budget under $700 delivered. I was trying to decied between two clutches. I think the Sports Ceramic Clutch Kit suits my applications better however don't know anyone who has one. How well do they hold under power? My car will have under 300kw when finished. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXEDY-S-METAL-Clutch-Set-disc-cover-NISSAN-SILVIA-S14-SR20DET-NK01TB-/281366068123?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4182b97b9b The other option is the Exedy Heavy Duty Button Clutch Kit NSK-6531HDB. I hear it can hold up under a lot of abuse. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Exedy-Heavy-Duty-Button-Clutch-Kit-Nissan-200SX-Silvia-S14-SR20DET-NSK-6531HDB-/121141179961?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3493b639

hey up for sale is my complete blacktop sr20det motor,gearbox,clutch,loom,ecu,turbo plus a spare turbo also have gear box and engine cross members car got rear ended thats reason iv got it its a complete ready to bolt up setup has everythink!!!! call or text for more info or pics its a clean sr20det they all look the same cheers chasing 1,800ono 0401099680

im building a custom car with a r33 GTR powertrain and a full built rb26 check out my other 2 threads to see what im building and spec. My question is how should i go about building a very strong drive line. Im planning on a exedy twin clutch, all axles and drive shaft are custom built buy driveshaft.com and can handle more power then ill ever have. the rear diff is a stock r32 gtr lsd ill have the LSD rebuilt. the front diff is stock and ill be puting in a LSD. Now the center diff how strong is it ? is there a up grade kit or something that im not aware of? and the transmission i heard that 3rd gear is weak so is there a trany upgrade kit to fix this or do i just have to bit the bullet and buy a race trans like OS Giken? I do have a great transmission builder so a up grade would be no problem. Ill just be smooth on the powertrain till its fully upgraded but i want to be able to run it hard on the track with slick mainly race track but some drag racing. any help or advice with this would be great and if there are some treads i have not read please sent me links Thanks