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Found 9 results

  1. Thought I would share my story as it’s the second time I have had this fault and a quick google shows it to often be misdiagnosed or the suggested repair is massively overpriced. This one seems to be a very misunderstood problem as this happened while on the way back from a dealership service and they had completely missed the problem with the car. I was driving while in congested freeway traffic and noticed the engine temperature was climbing well into the redline. I had to nurse the car through some careful manoeuvres to force cool air into the engine bay. Luckily traffic cleared up and once up to normal freeway speeds the temp dropped down again but it was clear the temperature was related to vehicle speed and stopping at traffic lights had it shooting up again quickly. This is the second time I have had this fault so diagnosis and repair was relatively quick and painless but I know from the first time I has this issue that the normal service technicians often completely miss the root cause and will recommend expensive repairs that only fix the problem by chance rather than knowing what they are doing, the fixes are often also expensive and require parts that are in fact perfectly serviceable on the car. The fault lies in the engines electric cooling fans, the brushes in the fans have become stuck due to dirt fouling the action and they are no longer making effective contact with the commutator. With 4 brushes inside the motor there is some level of redundancy but after a while the motors become less and less effective until they are not functioning at the required speed. The fans will still turn but they will not reach full speed and will not draw the required air across the radiator, most service techs will just see a spinning blade and assume the fan is working. The simple fix for this problem is to remove the fan housing from the motor, a simple job with plenty of how-to’s on YouTube, and then disassemble the electric motor housings. While not intended to be user serviceable, the housing can be opened with a screwdriver and/or some pliers. Between the 2 motors you will most likely find several of the brushes have become stuck with the spring pressure no longer enough to overcome the dirt and fouling accumulated in the motor. All you need to do is give everything a quick clean and maybe a little lubrication if you have the correct products. The hardest part is the reassembly, I recommend using sowing needles and thread to retain the brushes when you close-up the motor housing. Crimp the housing back together and reassemble and reinstall the fans. All up the fix takes about 2 hours using only a screwdriver, pliers, a shifter, a drain dray and a rag. No new parts required, and the repair should last you another 2 to 3 years before having to repeat the process. This of course presumes the brushes are in serviceable condition, not cracked to worn but even then, the replacement brushes are cheap and simple enough to replace with a soldering iron.
  2. hay guys im looking into buying a front mount intercooler for my r34 gtt. i want to make close to 300kw at the wheels with using the factory plenum. so im looking for the best cooling option eg shortest piping and not cutting holes. any advice will be great cheers
  3. M35 thermostat for $40 Hey all, Just an FYI for cooling improvements for your Stag. The V35 thermostat 21200-4W01B which suits VQ series is only $40 from Kudos Motorsports. Figured this would be good info as it's a good medium between the stock 82 and Nismo/Mishimoto 65 @ 76.5 Happy cooling, JB.
  4. If you've been thinking about doing some cooling upgrades NOW is the time to get on it! Don't wait until summer when it's too late, sort your cooling system now at www.moonlightracing.com.au. We have 10% off everything in the cooling section! (excluding COBB) Radiators, intercoolers, thermostats and all the rest. If it's not listed, just ask and we'll add it. No gimmicks, no codes, just add to cart for discount to apply automatically, easy! Go to www.moonlightracing.com.au now to get yours!
  5. Hi, my name is Leo. I've recently bought an r33 gtst and initially, all checked out well. It has since come to my attention a pin-hole leak coming from what I think is called the water outlet pipe (near the thermostat housing)... some corrosion on both. Wondering if there is anyone in this forum who can help me out or knows a good place that stocks new or second hand parts - wrecker, online, etc.. I'm located in Brisbane. I used to own an rx7 and all my parts etc came from connections I made throughout the years so I'm new to nissans Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
  6. Radiator upgrade Ok so i have always had some problems with the cooling system in my r33 GTS-T, even before i reinstalled the turbo, but now that i have it seems the the condition has become much more frequent (note i have a massive, not my choice, front mount on the car and can only assume that it must be helping the problem, when the car overheated when N/A the front mount was still installed). the latest time has got me thinking about replacing the radiator completely so the engine has more room for error, i cannot find leaks anywhere and i have seen the water boil past the cap valve so i assume this means that the system is capable of holding atleast a little pressure (i have replaced the cap incase that was the reason aswell). So my main question is there a decent-ish aftermarket upgrade for around $300, i have seen people rave about koyos but they all seem to be out of my price range, so far i have found http://justjap.com/cooling-pro-alloy-radiator-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-stagea-rb25-rb26.html which is around $250 shipped or http://worleyautoparts.com.au/product/alloy-radiator-for-nissan-pintara-skyline-r33-r34-auto-manual-1993-2003-atmt/ for $150 basically i would just like to know your opinions on what the problem could be and/or any preferences on the brand of radiator for relatively cheap. Cheers
  7. Hi guys, Hoping for some thoughts on this. i've replaced my factory radiator with a new 40mm alloy radiator and now my coolant temps don't want to go above 75 C. i've been reading up about replacing the clutch fan with electric but i'm happy with the clutch fan for simplicity (street driven car) bearing in mind its winter here in NZ, should i just not worry about this and suck up the slight increase in petrol consumption or are there any alternatives? i was thinking perhaps an R34 thermostat instead of the r33 thermostat? i'm not opposed to electric fans either. cheers
  8. Hi All, Urgently wanting to buy an R33 RB25DET fan clutch centre located in Melbourne. Please let me know if you have one! I can come and pick it up today! SMS would be preferred 0 4 1 3 - one one nine - 7 3 5 Cheers, Jason
  9. so i need to remove the radiator from my 250t rs four which has been converted into a 6 speed manual out of a 350z. it is still using the stock radiator so it has lines going into the radiator for cooling the transmission from when it was an auto. So, are the transmission lines connected at the bottom to the two brass fittings? (photo attached for reference) these have nothing attached to them so i am not sure what they are for, other than that. i think i may be mistaking the transmission fluid lines for something else as the lines I want to remove are on the passengers side of the radiator and coming off the side of it. this photo shows the lines i need to remove. Any help would be appreciated. cheers
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