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Build Thread

Found 6 results

  1. Hey all, When I purchased my BNR32 I wanted to get a genuine key copy however the original key had the key code scratched off for whatever reason. Since the original key was quite worn down, having the key cut by the local key cutter at the shopping centre was a bad idea as it wouldn't be an exact cut. From my hunting around you have two options depending on when your Nissan is from; 1. Your car is Australian delivered: Speak with Nissan and they can supply you the key code once you verify you are the owner via the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number). 2. Your car was imported from Japan: Speak with a good locksmith and they will be able to 'read' the key and essentially reverse engineer the code from the original. Once you have the key code, speak with a lock smith to have your key cut exactly according to the key code. As my car was imported from Japan I had to go down option two and was referred by Nissan to a local locksmith who was able to help me out Cheers,
  2. Hey guys! Finally got my car approx 2 weeks ago and already popping with questions! Got my car back from the shop today (major service) and apparently the car is only going three quarters as fast as it should be! I tried to research the problem but have no flippin' idea what I'm looking for! Apparently when you put the foot down the turbo.. cuts in and out? like it's there, then not there, then there again. I didn't notice this until I put my foot down to understand what the mechanic was on about. He said it may be electrical(went into jargon I couldn't understand lol)? I was hoping for some input/thoughts to give the mechanic the next time I see him as they charge lots by the hour lol Only changes done (related to problem) is the boost restricter being removed. so instead of 7psi, it's 14psi. But I don't see the boost gauge use all 14 pounds. Apparently this isn't the problem, I don't know. Any ideas would be fantastic! Cheers in advance guys!
  3. Hey guys, So I've recently resprayed my r32 from Acrylic green/clear to Acrylic metallic black/clear and I'm now looking at cutting it back and polishing it up to bring out a nice reflection and the metallic flecks alittle more. First off I'd like to say that this was my first time attempting painting anything that large before and also my first time using a compressor and gun for the job. The car was painted in a pop up car port so it was out of the whether, but obviously was not a booth job either. And there is a fair amount of orange peel in the paint and it probably wasn't applied the greatest due to trying to get the gun to spray correctly. I've now started sanding back the car with first 1500, then 2000 grit paper, then using an orbital polisher at around 1000 rpm with wool pad and a cut and polish compound to bring out the shine. I'm noticing this is leaving some swirl scratches and is also not quite removing all the 2000 grit scratches either and isn't quite giving me the shine that paint should. I'm wondering if anybody could help me out here in possibly giving some advice as to what products I should be using, maybe some tips and tricks as to the method and just some decent information from somebody thats worked with acrylic lacquer before. I can post up pictures of products I'm using and how the paint is looking too if need be. Any help would be appreciated fellas
  4. Cutting fibreglass I recently bought these 2 pieces, both will need cutting/adjustment to fit. What's the cleanest way to cut fibreglass to minimise cracking etc. The larger air guide in particular has a nice finish already, but is quite thin. .
  5. Disclaimer: There's a lot of people recommending to do this mod, but I haven't seen any idiotproof guides on how to do it. I'm not saying this is the best way to do this mod, it's just how i've done it - and hopefully this will help others, even if they don't follow my way 100%. Brief overview: The general consensus is that from Factory, M35 Stageas limit throttle to 30% for up to 3 seconds after releasing the brake pedal. This can prevent good launches/coming out of corners faster. By cutting the signal wire to the ECU, we can maintain full throttle immediately after releasing the brake. It is OK to cut this wire, however you will get a Check Engine Light after some time. By rigging it up to a switch, you are able to disable/enable the mod freely. Behind the glovebox is the ECU. You will need to dissemble the passenger side interior to access this, there's other guides online on how to do this - so I will assume you have your glovebox out and are looking at the ECU. Pull the plastic off guard off the ECU connector, it clicks off the 4 tabs on each corner. Find the VIOLET wire with the BLUE stripe - you can see it in pictures 1 + 4 of this post. I cut this wire, and attached either side to a terminal block. You can pick these up from JayCar very cheaply - I used a terminal block because I don't trust myself to solder wires coming directly off the ECU. I then picked up a small, discrete ON/OFF toggle switch (also from JayCar), which I mounted in my Glovebox - see pictures 2 + 3. Lastly just attach these wires to the remaining spots on the terminal block. Test the switch while everything is apart - This way you can fix any problems before reassembling. Done! Picture 4 of this post explains the above if anyone is unclear. Some people have hooked this up to the reverse switch in the car, so they don't have to touch the switch ever - however I like the idea of a toggle, so I can limit throttle power when a family member/friend drives the car.
  6. As topic says, was kinda surprised when i found this. Do this affect power steering and hicas?
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