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Hey all, Got into a prang with my R32 GTST. As per pictures, it was a front-on collision that took out the front bumper completely, all front lights, radiator and a few other bits. Looking to get rid of it ASAP. The engine seems fine, starts instantly, and the car can still move (note I don't say drive). The steering is fouled by the damage. Specs: RB25DET w/ roughly 170,000kms RB20 5 speed Z32 ECU w/nistune Ebay turbo (was working fine on 12psi) GTR pump I am NOT parting the car, selling whole. Best offer by Friday 29/1/16 can take it, I need it gone. Car is located in Guildford 2161. PM if interested. Thanks for your time.

Wanted gtr body shell for a build.. doesn't matter condition or damage etc. anything taken.

Bad piston rings or damaged cylinder walls? Recently, I opened a discussion on my excessive oil burning that my rb25det does and thanks to the help of many enthusiasts we concluded that it is bad piston rings or a damaged cylinder wall... or can it be both? Engine had a full upgraded rebuilt 6 months ago with it being bored over .020 over. It has been driven 1000 miles or 1609 kilometers since I have compression tested all my cylinders and it showed a psi of 50-70psi. When I did a wet test it shot up to 120-135psi My rb25det has a 1.5 cosworth head gasket so compression will be lower than normal My hopeful prediction is that the piston rings have seized, been installed improperly, or the rings are worn out. The reason why I don't believe its damaged cylinder walls is because every cylinder shows the same sign of compression loss and piston rings go out together. Cylinder walls are unlikely to all be damaged at the same time What do you guys think?

Hi SAU, My cluster in my skyline has stopped working (The rev meter section is broken along with the speedo section was playing up) and i bought a second hand odometer the next day so i know my speed limit and the rev meter. My question is, The old cluster had a different KMS to the second hand cluster now. I will be selling the car also soon and i dont want to do the wrong thing with RMS and wanted to know if we require to report this cluster issue to them for their records? the E -Safety was recorded with the original kms on it and the rego is coming up soon and the mechanic workshop said to me that RMS does not check these...which is BS! Has anyone else had the same issue with their clusters playing up and purchasing a second hand cluster with a different km's? Just wana do the right thing here guys. Thanks Jason

Damaged RB30 Block Repairs Hi all, I'm helping a friend rebuild a VL Calais. Long story short we bought the car for $2500 as a bunch of pieces and a rolling shell. Most of the car was there and we have managed to put it all back together. I should add that we are by no means mechanics, so please excuse my ignorance where it may appear. We have managed to start the car and it does move under its own power after several months of rebuilding it, however, one of the exhaust manifold studs was bent and had been poorly re-tapped. Initially we believed this would not be an issue, however, it leaks radiator coolant from the re-tapped stud area (we just left the exhaust off the car for initial tests). We have since learned that this cannot be repaired quite as simply as we had hoped and the block may need serious work to be any use to us. I believe that there may be coolant leaking into cylinder six. There is no water in the oil (we've checked twice). Obviously this is an issue and we are in the process of stripping and pulling the engine out for reconditioning. The coolant absolutely pours out of the exhaust port of cylinder six when the engine is running. I'd suggest it could empty the coolant from the car within 15 minutes if left to run. My query here is, in the event that we pull the engine for re-condition and cylinder six is in good condition, is it going to be possible to repair the block of the engine? We could simply have someone re-work the block and re-tap the stud, but does anyone know the effect that might have on the water path through the block? I'm concerned that if we attempt a repair we will re-direct the coolant path into the cylinder itself or some other area where we don't want coolant. Can anyone offer their opinions on this matter or does anyone have experience with this type of problem? (Pictures to follow).