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R34 Middle stereo surround, must be in mint condition with no scratches. as seen here

Hey all, Saw a member's R34 cluster and it had a really nice carbon fibre looking bezel / fascia with chrome circles that surround the dash cluster's gauges. Looks mint and really updates the console. Was searching online and I found a person was selling one for an AT back in 2009, other than that I can't even find a picture of it anywhere. If you know where I can find something like this let me know.

WTB: Black blind & net, boot mat/liner, dash mat. Hello, I'm after the below items for our 2000 Nissan Stagea C34 RS4. -Black blind & net -Boot mat/liner -Dash mat Thank you! James

Y34 Gloria Dash Hey guys the dash in my Gloria has started to play up and intermittently work. More often than not I get no dash showing up at all after the initial start up. Tried googling the issue but have had no luck in solving the issue, and that bought up another issue. It seems like every other Gloria/cedric on the planet has the orange needle style dash (as in pictures) except mine and 2 Russian glorias which have the digital style (also as pictured). So just wondering if anyone has any info at all on these digital dashes?

R32 dash As per title. Bubble free dash wanted. Inbox me plz.

Wanted - R32 GTR dash Hi Guys, Chasing a complete R32 gtr dash and centre console sections, must be in very good condition, not concerned if dash section has the dredded bubble but prefer without. Don't need the cluster more the dash crash pad section if that makes sense.

R32 GTR - Dash Hey peeps, Looking for an immaculate dash for R32 GTR. Must have no bubbles, scratches, or other damages. Not too fussed if it doesn't have vents. Cheers Kase

WTB: R32 GTR Dash Hi All, Im after a dash for a R32 GTR with no bubble and in as good condition as possible. many thanks.

S1 stage motor (s2 rb25det) and loom into s2 Hi guys and gals, just wondering if any has drop a s2 rb25det from a s1 rs4 stag into a s2 stag, some one went up the arse of my s1 and I have a s2 body with no engine, loom or ecu so I am half way through dropping the motor from the s1 into the s2 the issue I'm having is the plug from the s1 engine loom to the dash plug, no wires match up and are different colours ive sused out the little plug that goes from engine loom to body loom cheers, jonny

Gents, As the title says I'm looking for the nismo dash cluster with the built-in lcd screen. Any leads will be appreciated

Hi all I have just completed a PowerTune standalone digital dash install into my R32 GTR, and found there wasn't much guidance online around some of the nuances involved into doing this into the R32 GTR. I apologize in advance for not taking many photos of the project, but I will do the best I can to recollect and detail what is involved. Many hiccups came from how the R32 GTR gets its speedo signal to the different computers in the car, as me removing the OEM speedo causes that signal to be lost and messes with the HICAS and Power Steering systems in the car. Removing the OEM cluster also meant my ECU lost its speed reference, messing with any speed-related settings in the ECU itself. I.E launch control. It was super scary going into this with so many unknown factors, so my hope is that this helps at least one person do the same swap. For reference, this install was done in a car with a Link G4+ ECU, however the premise will be the same for any ECU. As I get time I can upload whatever photos and videos I have from the project in an attempt to make things clearer, and am happy to do my best to help others with the install. However, I am not super active on these forums, so flick me an instagram message and i’d be happy to lend a hand (@__DEZIAH). First up, everything we used to install the Powertune dash and do all of the plugs: PowerTune Digital Dash + GPS Unit Mako Motorsports R32 Dash Mount Mako Motorsports LED Lights: Indicators, High Beam, 4WD, Check Engine Light, Door Open, Handbrake, ABS, Battery, Oil Pressure Wiring basics (Wiring tools, wire, loom tube, heat shrink, insulation tape etc) Link CAN Expansion Loom Digital Dash Fuel Level Dampener (My particular one was from Spiyda) OEM Nissan R33 GTR Gearbox Speed Sensor 1x 8 Way DTM Deutsch Connector 1x 12 Way DTM Deutsch Connector 1x 4 Way DTM Deutsch Connector 2x 2 Way DTM Deutsch Connector Some of these parts may not be needed depending on how you want to do your install. I wanted to retain the functionality of the OEM harness, so that I could swap back to the OEM speedo if necessary and have it all work (all i'd have to do is reconnect the OEM speedo cable to the gearbox). I wanted it to be easily removable and tidy so we went with deutsch connectors to make the connection to the dash. I wanted the LED lights to be external to the dash for my warnings (and indicators, high beam etc), and most importantly I wanted fuel level to function and display on the dash. Preparing for the installation Start by removing anything and everything possible that could be in your way. Remove all of your interior trim pieces around the cluster, remove the OEM cluster, steering wheel etc etc. You want as much room to work as you can to make this process as easy as possible. I'd also suggest dropping your steering column to its lowest point to give you that extra little bit of room too. Wiring The LED's This was most likely the most time consuming part of the install. Because I wanted to retain functionality of the OEM harness, alot of splicing was required here in order to make that happen. I also wanted it to be tidy and easily removable, hence the use of multiple deutsch connectors. Below is what pins we spliced from the OEM harnesses, and what Deutsch connector we put them into. You don’t have to copy this exactly, and there may be a more optimal setup of where to pin everything, but this is what we did and it works. Function OEM Power OEM Ground DTM Power DTM Ground Indicators - Left 4 16 DTM 12 - Pin 1 DTM 8 - Pin 1 Indicators - Right 3 16 DTM 12 - Pin 2 DTM 8 - Pin 2 ABS 25 7 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 8 - Pin 5 Battery 25 17 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 4 CAT Temp Sensor / CEL 25 29 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 5 Handbrake 25 12 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 6 High Beam 18 19 DTM 8 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 7 Door Open 25 30 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 8 4WD 31 32 DTM 8 - Pin 4 DTM 12 - Pin 9 Oil Pressure 25 34 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 10 These were wired into the Mako Motorsports LED’s which came with my dash, so it was as simple as matching them up and off we went. Be sure to test all of them as you go, as you don’t want to be chasing issues once you’ve completed all of your wiring. I have a bunch of videos showing all of this, but i’m unsure how to upload them here (or if I even can). Wiring The Fuel Level Dampener + Fuel Level The fuel level dampeners purpose is to stop your fuel level jumping all over the place. Without this, your fuel level signal will be jumping up and down and be an absolute nightmare to look at. The dampener requires a 5v power source to work, so we used one of my ECU’s spare 5v outputs to provide that power. My ECU also has a ‘sensor ground’ input, so we used that for the ground signal. Pin 6 on the factory harness is the fuel level signal, so that was spliced into to give the dampener the signal it was after. And it was then sent to the ECU using one of the spare sensor inputs. I did not bother wiring up a low level warning LED, as I could set up my dash to display one if I wanted. But who really relies on one of those to tell you that you’re running low on fuel in a car like this. The signal that comes out of my fuel dampener then runs to an Analogue input on my ECU, and the ground goes to the sensor ground input on my ECU. My ECU can now see my fuel level (after I calibrate it of course - of which I will outline further down). Installing The New Speed Sensor The R33 GTR speedo sensor slots straight in and works in the R32 GTR transfer case. Meaning this is a literal swap in and out job. Remove the one bolt holding your speedo cable in, unscrew the cable, then use a flathead to leverage the sensor out of the transfer case. You will lose some fluid doing this, so be prepared to re-fill it. Note: you can fill the transfer case back up through the gear shifter, as that is connected to the transfer case, NOT the gearbox in the R32 GTR. Wiring The R33 GTR Speed Sensor Due to the factory mechanical speedo drive in the R32’s, removing the OEM cluster creates a lot of issues. The car converts the mechanical signal that the cable gives the cluster, and converts it into an electronic one which is then sent out to multiple other computers in the car. This affects things like HICAS, Power Steering, and any ECU speed related controls. This means if you remove this connection, lots of this stuff breaks. Fortunately, it DOES NOT use this for the Atessa system, so your 4wd system WILL NOT be affected. There was so much conflicting information around this, with no clear answers. I have now done this myself, and can confirm 4wd works perfectly fine. I do not have an aftermarket 4wd controller. Our original hope was that we could wire the R33 GTR electronic speedo drive straight into the OEM speedo input wires on the loom (pin 13 for power, and pin 14 for ground), as in theory everything else would then work as intended. Power steering won’t get upset, and HICAS would still work normally. However when we attempted this, we made a mistake with the pinouts in our DTW connector, meaning it was not working. So we ended up wiring the electronic speedo drive directly to the ECU instead. Only then did we realize we had wired it incorrectly, so that it could have likely gone into the OEM location and all worked as intended. However we haven’t been able to confirm this, so it would be awesome if someone else giving this a try, can check and confirm. The rest of this guide assumes that this will not work. All of my calibration stuff in my ECU software can be found further down into the writeup. Power Steering Issue Explained The R32 GTR has a ‘speed-assisted’ power steering system, which adjusts how much power steering assistance you get based on how fast you are going. This means you get assistance at lower speeds, but it reduces as your vehicle speed increases in an attempt to improve overall steering feel. Whilst an awesome system in concept, when you’re messing around with the speedo sensor, it breaks it. Once your oem speedo signal no longer works, around 30 seconds to a minute after you begin driving your power steering will become extremely heavy and basically turn off. IT goes into some form of failsafe mode as it gathers something has broken, and reverts to the lowest assist setting it has. You’ll have found this happen if you’ve ever snapped a speedo cable too. The OEM system uses a voltage regulator based on speed to determine how much power is send to the power steering unit, ultimately adjusting therefore how much assistance you get. This leaves us with two possible fixes. Power Steering Issue - Fixes First fix (the one I did), wiring in a voltage converter and setting it at a certain voltage to give the motor a constant voltage at all times. This means your power steering will have a constant feel at all times, so its a bit of a balancing act getting it right. Too much voltage going to the motor, steering feel will be extremely light at high speed. Too little, and steering will be too heavy at low speed. I purchased one from Jaycar (part number AA0236), and wired it in, bypassing the OEM system. Ryno did an awesome writeup of how to do this, so i’ll link that below. Personally, I set my voltage regulator to around 6 volts, as I liked the steering feel. This is all up to personal preference, and I dont mind it being a bit heavier at low speeds to have great feel when i’m actually driving. (Ryno’s writeup: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453968-r32-heavy-power-steering-how-to-disable-speed-variable-assist-steering-and-control-power-assistance-level/). I mounted mine above my brake pedal - that way the metal heat sink can dissipate heat effectively, its not in the way of anything, and I can easily adjust it if I ever feel the need. I’m sure you could also get fancier and wire this to some sort of dial and be able to control your power steering assist on the fly. But at this point, I just wanted it working. The second fix, which is more complicated - is to use your ECU to control the speed sensitive power steering. I’m not super clued up on this, but you could essentially use your ECU to control the power steering motor. This link here detailed a bit of how to do this, but I never delved into it as it doesn’t bother me. https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/reinstating-speed-sensitive-power-steering-without-hicas.507017/ HICAS Removing the speedo signal will also break your HICAS. However I absolutely hate HICAS, so it is removed from my car, meaning this is a non-issue for me. I’m sure there is also a way to fix this, but it is likely along the same lines as getting your ECU to control your hicas motor. Otherwise, be noted that HICAS will either outright not work, or act very strangely if you remove your OEM speed signal. Wiring In The Dash So at this point, you should have functional warning lights (indicator etc), power steering should be working again, and your ECU should be able to see your vehicle speed and fuel level. Now comes the easy part, wiring the dash itself. This particular dash just needed a 5v power signal (it comes with a 12v - 5v converter), so we used that directly into one of the cars ignition sources. You need to ensure you use a good, strong signal for this, otherwise the dash will have issues with running under power and may not operate correctly. We went for an ignition source instead of accessory as I didn't want or need the dash running whilst I am just listening to music etc. We then made a new ground for the dash and put it onto a bolt that goes through the chassis. This particular dash uses CAN to get the signal from the ECU and came with the required wiring. We plugged the supplied plug into CAN-2 on the ECU, and screwed the wires into the back of the dash. Not much more explanation really needed here. Calibration Now in theory, everything should be visible and working. All your signals and warning lights should work, your dash should power on, and your ECU should be able to see everything. Now, we just need to teach the ECU what everything does and means. Then, we need to tell the ECU to actually broadcast this data to the dash. (The calibration data is all on my laptop which I do not currently have access to - I will upload further when I can). My speed calibration settings: My fuel level calibration settings: My CAN broadcast settings: My custom fuel level CAN broadcast settings:

Where could i find this part new/used ?

Hello everyone. This thread is my Diy/walkthrough of a s15 dash conversion in my r32 sedan I do really like the r32 dash but having an s15 as dream car. The s15 dash has always been the best looking dash in my opinion. Iv had some lazy spare interior parts had gotten the dash i swapped for a part which was cut n stuff for his a31. But long story short. Iv taken the factory one out and chucked in the s15 one in to get an idea.. i havent checked what mount fits or not yet. Ill be cutting my door cards so the door can close also doing my sounds while i have time cause some drivetrain things are broken lol Will keep an update, Now that iv made the thread. Ill try be more indept as i go along also. Cheers.

Hey guys, After some advice, I have purchased a tomei r32 gtst dash cluster and the back of it is yellow/orange (indicating it is a s1 cluster) My r32 is a 1992, meaning it a series 2. This means that the dash cluster will not work correctly without rewiring/modification. I have rear the tach and high beam light won't work, and also the oil pressure warning light will always be on. What I am wondering is if anybody would be able to supply dash cluster pinout diagrams for both series 1 and 2 r32 dashes. Or if anybody knows how to get a S1 dash working correctly. Or if anybody knows a good nissan auto-electrician on the Gold Coast that would be able to wire this up for me. Thanks in advance. - Justin

R32 GTR Squeaking noise under dash Hi, I've had my R32 GTR for a while now and suddenly it's started to make a squeaking noise form the dash area, or underneath, when driving. I've taken the dash off and checked everything (and removed the famous bubble) and put the car back together, but the noise is still there (bummer). I guess the only was now to find it would be to drive the car without the dash and get someone to listen. The sound is as if you cut styrofoam with a blunt knife. As there isn't really too much under the dash my thoughts are that it is likely to be the heater unit... Has anyone experienced this? Also, if I take the dash off and drive the car, would there be a technical issue (I know it won't be legal) to drive it without the instrument cluster? Any help would be appreciated!!! Cheers, Chris

Contact details Hi I'm looking for Chris Rodgers, I've tried his phone as per audio express and a mobile number, both disconnected, I obviously haven't been on site for a while I hope I haven't "put my foot in it" any help would be appreciated.

R34 Dash Removal Hey guys, I'm looking for guidance on removing the dash from my 34GTT, I've searched the forums (including skylineowners) any forums i've come across with directions the photos have expired or been deleted. Any assistance would be great

I have one of those (so called) rare Nismo LCD screen dashes. I'm not really fond of it to be honest, as ive never had the screen working (dont have the required setup). Basically, it came with my car when i bought it from the dealership, and it wasnt working. I noticed the screen behind the plastic casing had a bit of dust on it, so i decided to take it apart and wipe the screen. BIG mistake. ..The screen smudged at the bottom where i wiped, and left a mark which has never gone away. To be honest im not that fussed with all the "fancyness" of the dash, as id rather get a better look at what speed im doing then be looking at a blank screen at the moment. So i was wondering... 1. Is it worth keeping? Can the screen be fixed? And if so what computer/device do i need to run something on the screen? who can install it? or 2. Should i sell it/ swap it (and keep it in storage) with a regular stock R33 Gtst dash? Im not really fussed by the fact the screens got a scratch to it, as right now im leaning towards finding a stock dash with regular kms and swapping it over, still keeping the nismo one. If its worth getting fixed and it can be easily, ill consider looking down that path thanks for any opinions

Hey guys, just installed an impul 300k dash cluster in place of the stock one. First thing i found that the plugs don't match with the impul cluster so i had to move a few of the pins in order for it to operate properly. Now the problem i'm having is that the speedo will read double and then sometimes will revert to reading normal..? Can anyone shed some light on this issue. Also i'm not getting full time power steering as i had before??

Was looking into a variety of options for gauges and rev counters etc. and thought it would probably be cheaper just to get a dash that does everything. Found this puppy on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Race-Technology-Programmable-Digital-Dash2-PI-AIM-Stack-/160690415217?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2569e52671 or there's the racepak from Haltech http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Racepak-IQ3-dash-EFI-interface-/370582798469#vi-content what are you guys using? what do you recommend? I don't have a particular need for data logging, although it would be nice. after buying the dash, what sort of costs are you looking at to get it installed? I wanna see some photos too of them installed. show us ya dash!

Hi Guys, Can someone confirm all the different types of clusters on all the GTR models. Am I correct in saying all the GTRs came with 180km dash clusters? If not can someone explain what models came with different clusters.

Hey all first time poster here. I own an r33 and for the past couple of weeks I’ve been struggling to fix a problem with the rev unit. It will either stay completely still while driving or go all jumpy and random (I’ve heard this is notorious for skylines). ive tried replacing the actual rev unit itself to no avail as well as the whole back in to the speedo and rev unit which also hasn’t worked. Ive also cleaned out the connectors that feed in to the rev unit without success. Im completely open to any suggestions on what to do next because I’m out of ideas

Hey All, looking to change my dash lights with blue multi directional LEDs in my R34 GTT. Anyone that has done this switch where did you get your LEDs from and how do you like them?

Hey fellas, so recently purchased a 92 gtst rolling shell and it seem as tho it has an auto dash, it has had an SR and an RB25 in it before has modplates and was last registered with a sr20 in it, so my problem is will i run into any problems when i go too put a RB25 in it? is there anything that can be dodgy about auto conversions that i should check on or is there anyway i can tell if has been? can post pics if need be,Cheers.

Hi Guys, My 08 V36 Sedan has developed an annoying issue with the dash lights. Part of the dash had started to flicker, specifically the 7 - 8 rpm section of the tacho. I see a few people in the US have had this problem but all the threads I have read the person just had it replaced at the dealer. Has anyone had something similar and know how to fix it? Cheers