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Hi everyone, really hoping someone can help me with an issue ive been having! Ive been battling this for a while not with my 2001 300GT (VQ300DD). I have a constant current draw on my battery which drains it if I leave the terminals connected for a more than a few days, battery seems fine if I just unplug it whenever im not using it I disconnected negative terminal and measured current draw across the battery with everything off and it is ~400mA. I understand this should be closer to ~50mA. I trawled the internet for wiring diagrams and the only one I could find was a Russian version, ive attached a screenshot below and labelled what I think are relevant sections. I pulled fuses and discovered the issue with the 15A fuse that controls quite a few components.. From the fuse I went to the relay labelled 1 located in the IPDM cluster and put a jumper across coil terminals first and then relay terms. I discovered that the fault was on the relay circuit and not the coil circuit, this lead me to believe that the issue could lie with the components labelled as group 3 below. Im realising now that group 2 is off this circuit as well which I haven't checked.. Group 3 consists of MAF sensor, camshaft position sensors and crank shaft sensor. I pulled all the wire harnesses on these but did not see any change in current draw so concluded these to not be the issue. I then unplugged the ECCS labelled 4 and the current dropped to ~130mA From here Im not too sure how to proceed, does this mean my ECU is bad or could it be any other device connected to the ECU?? Im reluctant to buy a replacement ECU before being certain I know where the fault lies.. Im also curious as the current draw is still slightly higher than expected.. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Hi all, I'm looking for a RB20Det. Located in Sydney. It would be best if i could see the engine running, if already removed i would require compression test results. Would also be interested in a package with ECU and RB20 engine loom. If you know anyone with an engine sitting around in their garage, let them know. Cheers Willis 0435 120 602, SMS works best.

lookin to buy a either new or 2nd hand after market ecu for a manual series 1 r33 gtst

Hey guys Im after a nistune (or another tunable) ecu for an RB20det. Please pm me if you have any available. Cheers

hey guys just after a rb20det after market ecu like nistune something i can plug in staright away, let me know what u have. cheers daniel

Hi all, I can't get my consult interface to work and I suspect a dud ECU consult interface. It's a S2 RSFour. I have checked it has 12V ignition connection and a good earth, and RX & TX wire continuity from the pins on my consult interface to the pins on the board. I have tried two different consult interfaces which work in other cars. So it must be the ECU - argh. I only have a 2WD ECU to swap in and test (both cars are auto though, and S2). Is anybody familiar enough with the ECU pinouts to know whether a 2WD ECU can be safely connected to a AWD ECU? I suspect it will be OK, because from a quick inspection it appears as though the only connection to the ATTESA system appears to be "integrated control signal (multiple communication)" which sounds like data to me - hopefully disconnected in the 2WD ECU? I have been going by a R34 ECU pinout. I don't know if it's different for stagea. Anybody know if it will be safe to test the 2WD ECU in the 4WD car? cheers DaveB

Hi all, I need some help with a FAST part number again... My ECU is an Hitachi, 23740 0V812 and I have a replacement which is 23740 0V810. Can anybody tell me if this replacement is compatible? cheers DaveB

want to buy a standard r34 Gt-t ecu from an automatic only will pay $120 or swap for manual series 1 r33 ecu (manual) also looking for standard r34 gt-t throttle body with TPS sensor R34 intercooler (piping and core) bolt on (no cutting front bar or battery tray) im located in nsw penrith 2750 but will travel or pay postage r34 GTT coil packs 0429827461 Gareth

Hi guys! I've got an itch to develop a plugin for my M35 2.5DET. It will use an Adaptronic 1280 ECU and a patch harness. The ecu selection will be because I'm pretty familiar with Adaptronic's now days, and also because the 1280 has an unlimited scope for programming auxillary outputs. This can be used to drive the auto ecu, dash stuff and anything else required. The 1280 is fairly special in it's function block approach to aux programming. Hardware wise, I will need a ECU (can be damaged I only need the plug/internal pins). Instead of plugging the stock ECU in, it will have the plug and then wiring off to 1280 instead. I will develop a loom and tune while retaining all the standard functions of the stock ECU. While I am there I will create a detailed pinout of the ECU as well as a value table for each pin (voltages, signal etc) Does anyone have a broken ECU laying around, or knowledge of where the plugs are available from? Can someone clarify if I can use any 3.5/2.5L ECU, they should have the pins just no internals if the pin is un-utilised for that model. Cheers, Jase

WTB: RB20DET stock ecu's, preferably unopened message me with a pic of the cover ( so i can ensure it’s the correct part number) price and location 0425896150

Hello people, need to find a standard, unmodified ECU for my R, anyone who has one can pm me, or contact me on 0410585627. Thank you

Hi guys, my ECU fuel pump circuit is basically fried so car is dead in the water at the mechanics, wondering if anyone has a second hand RS4s (manual) ECU laying around they're willing to part with ? model no: 23710 0V801 JECS TM either that or an Apexi PFC to suit... (R34 GTT) I'm located in melbourne... would prefer local pickup Tomas

Hey guys I'm looking to buy a Z32 ecu with nistune chip pre-installed, also with base tune so I can get my car to the tuners. I'm in the syndye area, Car is a 1995 R33 RB25DET. Looking for a quick buy if possible. Thanks guys.

Hi guys, As per title, I'm looking for an ECU to suit myself RS4S Stagea. Hoping to have somewhere local to avoid postage. Thanks

hey guys, been a while just after some info or feed back got a s1 33 with gt30 ect. had power fc yet changed to NISSTUNE huge headache and the engine blew. now have a fresh built s2 motor and about to run in and tune. is this a bad idea on nisstune?? i have got my hands on a s2 pfc can i put this on s1 whats the difference if any?? and or go haltech or something? any answers appreciated just dont want this bitch to blow again! thanks

M35 Electrical gremlin Hey guys, I have quizzed a few of the facbook users in the M35 tuners group about this issue, but thought it might also be a good idea to see if anyone on here has any ideas that havent been thought of yet. For the better part of six weeks now, i have an issue with the car whenever it sits unoccupied in the sun (like carparks when shopping, or in full sun at work). The car shows on the dash firstly the AT light, and also drops out the speedo and gear selection on the dash. Then once the ABS decided s to do it little venting test on start up, it seems to hold the "vent" open for about 20-30 seconds, the the light stays on. I have been in a few positions when i have had to move the car with the issue present, and without jumping on the breaks, there dosn't appear to be any major noticeable issue with the breaking, but the trans is clearly unhappy. It slams pretty hard from N to D and it holds the gears a lot longer then it normally would. Then, once the windows are down and the cabin of the car cools down, slowly the AT will go back to normal then shortly after the ABS light will switch off. Also, to test the theory, i had parked the car in full sun yesterday (about 30 degrees) and cranked it over at about 4pm, sure enough the issue occurred. i then moved the car to the shade, left it with windows down for an hour, then fired it up again, no issues present. I had read on here that a faulty atessa ecu had caused ABS issues in the past, but there was no mention of faulty gauges with that. And also from what i have been told, the gauges are controlled by the iPDM, but that should not have any temp change in cabin as next to the battery. I have a new iPDM, BCM & ABS ecu coming from Josh, and will try those but does anyone else have any thoughts or had similar issues?

R33 gtr parts Hi guys Looking for the following Arp head bolts for rb26 Extended sump for rb26 Apexi power fc d jetro Thanks

WTB R32 ECU MALE CONNECTOR WTB R32 ECU MALE CONNECTOR can be from an old patch loom that has the male side connector which i can use to make my own patch loom for my ecu thanks fellas

WTB HALTECH E11V2 PATCH LOOM FOR R32 GTR let me know what you have

Stagea C34/M35 Parts & Viper Alarm Hi all, I used to own a 1997 C34 auto Nissan Stagea and a 2002 NM35 auto Nissan Stagea and have some spare parts lying around and would like to sell them. I have uploaded some pictures and can send more via email or sms. 1 x Viper alarm system 5806V with GPS tracking and remote start with additional tilt and audio sensors - Brand New - $850 1 x C34 stock exhaust (I think I have turbo back) - $100 1 x C34 stock wheel - $50 1 x C34 auto series 1 viscous LSD - $300 1 x C34 fuel tank with no fuel pump - $50 1 x C34 auto series 1 prop shaft (requires reconditioning) - $50 1 x R32 GTR Nismo fuel pump - used and in good condition - $220 1 x RB25DET JJR blue silicone heater hose set (missing 2 pieces) New - $80 1 x RB25DET valley cover (please note the snorkel pictured has been sold) - $20 3 x Camber correction Superpro and Whiteline Bushes (SPF3154K, SPF1869K & KCA347) - New - $300 for the lot or $120 each 6 x RB26DETT stock pistons and rods. I may have RB25 and/or also RB30 pistons and rods. $50 for the lot. 1 x M35 Stock ECU - $150 1 x M35 HKS SLD to remove 180km/hr speed cut (NEW) - $350 6 x M35 stock injectors - $50 1 x M35 stock intercooler and fan - $50 1 x M35 stock turbo actuator - $50 That's all I can think of now. If you have any questions please feel free to pm me. I'm located at Derrimut, Victoria. I am also happy to post at buyer's expense. Cheers, Kandio

WTB - Looking for OEM R34 Rb25det ECU Looking for a OEM R34 Rb25det manual ECU. Located in Victoria Thanks James

vq25det Nm35 Stagea vq25det stage 1 ecu reflash exchange. 23710-AQ806 This is an exchange service that requires your standard computer. Features: ⏺ Remapped throttle control ⏺ Remapped gear pressure targets for quicker shifting at wot ⏺ Rev limiter increase please (specify rev limit or will be set to 7,000rpm ⏺ Removal of 180km speed limit (no more requirement for hks sld) ⏺ Optimise evct timing. Intake cam timing is advanced harder and earlier and will continue until turbo is making boost. (Specify turbocharger size otherwise timing will be changed to suit standard turbo). ⏺ Increased ignition timing for stock-lightly modified stageas. (Exhaust, intercooler, dump pipe and 98ron). ⏺ Modified fuel curve to suit 98 octane improved high end fueling targets over standard. ⏺ Increased boost response and higher Quick turn around time For off street and closed circuit use only. [email protected]

PNM35 ECU tuning/standalone/piggy back options Apologies if this has been covered to death but I'm trying to investigate tuning options for my PNM35 in the future. Any engine work would be a waste if there aren't any proper tuning solutions and so far I can't find anything to confirm if someone has managed to tune a PNM35 either by way of flashing the standard ECU or piggyback/standalone ECUs. I've found a lot of threads regarding ECU possibilities but most seemed focussed on the NM35 turbo cars which I know have a totally different ECU. Can someone please give me a definitive answer...is there a proper tuning solution out there for these cars that doesn't cause all sorts of issues and error codes??

【WTB】ECU for 33GTST S1 Hi guys. I would like to buy an cheap ECU for my 33 GTST S1. It could be pfc, haltech or whatever. Better with boost controller and hand controller. Budget is no more than $700. Located in Glen Iris, Mel. Can pick up if you are not too far from me.

Attesa not working I have a S1 C34 that is manual converted, with power fc. I have the secret squirrel mod done. It previously had an extreme TSC that I removed thinking that may be the cause, but no change. My AWD has never worked since I bought the car 2 years ago. When I purchased the car the owner said the Attesa needed to be bled since the gearbox had been out. I bled the Attesa and it still doesn't work. I can hear the pump prime when I turn ign on and it runs occasionally while sitting at idle. I have had the awd and abs lights come on and stay on after sitting idle for long periods. I don't seem to have any fault codes to try and work out why it doesn't work. I have checked that the Attesa ECU is receiving a TPS signal and that is all ok. I'd really like to get it working, as it is hard getting the power down just through the rear wheels. I've been reading and am thinking either pressure switch or accumulator. Is there any way to check these for sure?