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Hey I’m currently doing a car audio install in a 2018 Kia cerato YD and I need some recommendations on that to do I’ve done some installations before but none with a dual battery set up I’m planning on using a 200-250a alternator and a slimline 170AH AGM in the back I’ve heard some people say just use a isolator whilst someone from a car audio shop says to use a regulator or Dc-dc charger I’ve looked everywhere for a reg or dc-dc that is 200-250a to keep up with the power draw from the 2-3kw monoblock I’m planning on getting i already own the battery and the sub but no idea what to do after the advice that if I don’t use a dc-dc or reg my battery might get too much charge and go short circuit and act like a welder so no idea now what to do idk if I’m allowed to post links I’m new here link to the alternator: https://www.powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=14962-250-HD1-1 theres also a stinger alternator that’s a 220a but I don’t have a link it would be custom made Cheers Rick

Hi guys, wondering if anyone knows any reputable places in Melbourne that would be able to fit an alarm system/immobiliser/gps tracking in my 34? Had a look through some other threads and couldn't find any that give names of places in vic. Thanks

Hey guys, Just bought an R33 and trying to figure out some problems its having. No constant 12v on the radio loom. I've checked the fuse and its getting power there, but no power at the plug. Its getting ACC 12v volts at the plug though ? I know it has something to do with the headlight reminder buzzer. I've jumped a constant 12v from the hazard switch and the buzzer gets louder. Trying to out what it could be. Does anyone have the electrical wiring diagram or know what it could be ? Thanks

So I've had an issue with the cabin/dome lights in my C33 Laurel. They were replaced with LEDs before I bought the car, but they will not turn on. The fuse is good, but it looks like there isn't any power at the switch. Is there a common point of failure for the lights/wiring? I'd like to avoid tearing out all of the wiring unless I have to.

Hey guys, just recently bought a Nissan Stagea WC34 Series 2 and someone has ripped out the ignition barrel. I’ve heard rumours that r33 is compatible with ignition barrel for the stagea? If not is there any others or just better off finding a replacement

Hello all! After removing my immobiliser and swapping out a faulty HEC, im now left with a car that starts, runs fine but won't cut the ignition signal when the key is removed / ignition barrel is disconnected from the loom. When the battery has been disconnected THEN reconnected, i have no voltage coming from wire 3 (ignition wire) when probing (with the harness connected, as expected.) However, when the ignition is switched on (by turning the key in the barrel) the signal is closed and the circuit is complete, but it will not open the circuit when the key is switched back to off and even when the circuit is opened by removing the ignition barrel harness. This circuit will remain complete until either the battery is disconnected, or the IGN-1 relay is removed from the HEC unit. I was originally under the impression it was a short to voltage, but when i realised it only occurs once the barrel has been turned and not so much as soon as the harness is connected to the battery i'm stumped. I've tried identifying any relays installed complimentary to the immobiliser, but can't find anything hidden up under the dash or in the engine bay, any help or pointers is appreciated and ill attach the relevant diagrams, including a complete body and engine harness diagram as a pdf. any pointers and help is appreciated! thanks for your time! r31_service_manual_ti_diagram.pdf

I’m looking to install my alarm into my 32 gtst and need more information about the ignition harness under the dash. I’m just wondering does anyone has a diagram / wiring table stating colours of each wire and it’s use. I can spend the time to identify them, it would just save me time if someone had already done it or knows where to source diagrams etc. thanks ?

Hi all, I bought an R32 GTR a few months ago, noticed a fuel leak and went to investigated. I pulled out the connectors to the top of the fuel pumps so that I could better see where the leak was coming from (initially thought it was a crack in the tank). Once I realized where the leak was coming from (one of the hose clamps from soft lines to hard lines rusted off) I plugged the pumps back in and went to start the car to get a better look at exactly where the car was leaking from. So here is the issue, when I turn the key to the first and second positions everything is normal, lights come on, clock comes on, dash starts up like normal, as soon as I hit the "On" position the car tries to prime the fuel pump and the center diff for about a tenth of a second and then all of the electrics cut out. The interior lights still work and the headlights still come on but pretty much everything else is non-functional. I can repeat this but I have to unplug the battery, otherwise nothing comes on when I try again after the initial cut out. So here are the things I have checked: All fuses (under hood and under steering wheel) Fusible Link, nothing wrong Removed the FPCM (checked it, nothing wrong that I can see) New battery Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Please help my r33 key light stays on all the time when car is locked unlock the car and it goes away it’s like it’s in reverse working out all the bugs of my new car finally found what is slowly killing my battery thnx in advance any help appreciated

Hi All, I'm hoping some of you can answer my non car related electrical questions. I have a large fish tank which needs power to some components 24/7. I've thrown around the idea of buying a generator in the past but the need to be on my property when power goes out threw that out the window. Now I'm thinking about a battery and trickle charger with an inverter in an attempt to ensure uninterrupted power for my pumps. So, in my head, I'm thinking this; 3 pumps in my tank that I need to run are about 200w total (thats about 60w bigger than actual, but I'd like to over estimate than under.) A 50AH deep cycle battery will run these pumps quite easily for 24hrs. A 300w inverter will allow 240v access to the batter. A good ol' trickle/maintenance charger will keep the battery charged. Power outage means that the fully charged battery will take over. Is that sane? Am I missing anything? It seems too easy. I guess the only thing I am really wondering about is maintaining the health of a battery when it is charged at 100% for 99% of the year. Should I make it work every month? Switch off the mains to it to force it to cycle? Would love any help. Thanks, Christian

whaaaaattsssss up guys!!!!!!! so my r34 4door is part of a friends movie project for their studies. ive bought some gauges to put onto the car for shoots but am lost at the moment. i bought an exhaust temp and water temp gauges to hook up just cause they look nice haha. now its only going to be a temporary thing and they dont actually need to read anything, just illuminate if that makes sense. then ill take em out. but im wondering whats the best way to go about that??

Hey guys, I'm having an electrical issue that I can't seem to figure out. So my interior light works fine in the on and off position, but when it's in the 'door' position, the light won't turn on when the door is open. The only time the door light on my dashboard works is when the car is on. I've attached a video down below, hopefully it explains my issue. Any insight to what it could be would be great. Thanks in advance guys! FB_VID_840167655689649516.mp4

What the heck is this? Does anyone actually know if this (see second pic for actual part ) serves a purpose? It's off the positive lead of the battery.

Electrical Issue After Battery Relocation So I've relocated my battery and everything seemed fine key on engine off. Interior systems function with no issues. I attempted to move the car but after about 10 seconds of running my wipers started going crazy (not even switched on) and a cloud of smoke emitted from behind my radio into the cabin. To immediately rule out and prevent wasting anyone time this doesn't appear to be an issue between the battery and distribution block i.e. Short in the long power cable running from the trunk to the front of the car. But where the distribution begins and the power is distributed seems to be the cause. So this is the setup (see pic). I literally cut the three wires off the positive terminal, a 2 gauge, 8 gauge and a 16 gauge (approx) (see pic). The only difference is I cut out the 16 to 8 gauge connector that came from the terminal (see pic). Now this happens to also be the power to all the interior items and looking at the first picture the fuse that's blown. So in conclusion looking at the distribution block (pic 1) this is the only circuit of those three that blows causes my wipers to go crazy and burnt my radio up. Is there a resistor in that connector (see pic 3 again) or could this distribution block be crap? I'll take any and all suggestions please.

Hi everyone, I am new to the forum here as i have recently purchased my first Nissan. It was a rolling R32 4 door shell and in the last couple weeks i dropped a rb20, 5speed, and r200 into it and just working out the final kinks before it hits the road. If anyone has any ideas it would be great because i have been stuck on some of these for a while now. The first issue is that occasionally when turning right, all the electrical power is cut to the car and it stalls and gets itself going again. This is what i have done so far to try and find the issue. 1) Checked the loom in the wheel archs, no damage to them and the car is factory height. 2) Pulled the steering coloum apart and checked/jiggled anything i could find. 3) Disconnected the power steering 4) Made sure the battery terminals are good, and the battery clamped down. 5) wiggled any electical connection i could find, and nothing. A few things to note are; The car has had the rear subframe swapped and does not run a hicas system. The ecu has been disconnected and im running a r33 P/S pump. The car has an alarm installed which is working 100% but i have thought maybe it is somehow cutting ignition. The car seems to be using a ton of fuel and maybe i have a fuel pump issue and when turning right the fuel is sloshing away from the pickup. The second issue i have is a vacume leak near the rear of the intake manifold, i can hear it on idle and sprayed some soapy water today and although i couldnt see it still i could hear the note change. I have recently replaced the IACV so i dont think that is it, but i just cant find the culprit. The thrid issue i have is if i plug in the AAC the idle jumps up to ~1300rpm and i cant get it down, if i unplug it the car idles great and drives fine builds boost no problems but i would still like to find out why it is happening and fix it. I have also installed a R33 complete airconditioning system and need to wire it up, if anyone has a wiring diagram that would be great. Thanks, Zeke

Hello again fellas,i finally realised my problem with my rb25 today an i was wondering if yall cud help me out...so its pretty simple actually...but im not a electrician.So basically when the car uses other electrical components(like windows,A/C) ; it causes my air fuel gauge to read lean gradually till the car cuts off....i was hoping anyone cud tell me the wire which is wrong/bad,Thanks for any help in advance

Park lights wiring hiccup Hey guys and gals I'm having a bit of trouble with the recently Rb swapped s13. It now idles which is mint. But I cant leave the battery connected 'cos the park lights (clearance lights according to FSM) get constant power.. This is my first attempt at doing anything like this myself and so far its been all good. engine is in, running, all lights work properly (except the obvious), the stereo is pumping out sounds, new interior is in (seats, dash. carpet, the works) and paint is on the way. The problem I've run into now is that the whole 'exterior lamp' circuit gets constant power. So my clearance lamps and tail lights are always on. In turn, the dash, licence plate lights and heater control unit lights are always on too. I am not overly competent with wiring. I can do it... slowly. Definitely getting quicker and better with experience. I don't know much of the technical lingo and there is a lot of it that I do not understand. Thus why Im after a wee bit of advice. I have pulled all fuses (engine fuse box and kick panel fuse box) and these lights stay on. Unless you remove the alternator fuse. Then they are off. I also tried unplugging the switch up by the steering wheel and the exterior lamp circuit is still powered. If you twist the switch to the 1st position (ON) then the lights become a little bit brighter. Not much, but just noticeable. Had a mate here for a few days (happens to be an auto sparky). Couldn't figure it out in his time here. To be fair, we had no wiring diagram then and were doing other bits n pieces too. If someone reading this is electrically savvy and you want to help, let me know what you need to see pictures of. I've made the full 900 odd page manual with wiring diagrams etc and can post up pics. this just has me stumped. Where do I start? What would you do? Cheers guys Sean

R32 barely runs under load Sooo... My friend/customer has a really neat 89 m spec 20DET manual and I've offered to fix it up on the cheap because he's been f**ked around for a while and it's about time the car seen some road time. The car will rev on the spot clean and sharp without the slightest miss to 5.5-6k before it drops Spark (can hear the unburnt fuel popping in the exhaust) and when test driving it is barely driveable (as in 20kmh a struggle) with any throttle basically resulting in misfire and breaking down. Much to my dismay I'm now at the the swap parts and see stage of mechanics, after diagnosing the car has not given any obvious stuff. I have changed the plugs to BPR6ES-085 (.85gap) the coil packs have been changed by the owner less than 12months ago to OE style aftermarket coils. I have also had parts from a perfect running r32 gts-t swapped one at a time these include AFM, ECU, Igniter and Cam Sensor. I have checked the white wire supplying the the igniter for voltage at idle (14v) and under load (13.9v) and also checked the timing belt which is certainly old but all timing marks line up at 0 TDC. Our Autel Maxisys diagnostic tool has Nissan consult also which the ecu has no stored fault codes using the tool and putting the ecu in factory diagnostic mode it displays 55 currently although the consult port does continue to disconnect form the unit due to "improper connection". During live data the TPS reads .4V at idle and 4.2V wide open the ecu coolant sensor reads around 70ish degrees the rpm count matches the tacho and afm and I used the tool and a timing light to set the timing to 20 BTDC and the idle is at 800RPM. I believe the issue is related the connection problem at the consult port is going to lead to the actual problem (happy to be proven wrong though) and I'm leaning toward a earth or wiring issue with the car, also there has been moisture coming in through a slight leak in the front window if that helps. Hoping someone with some skyline experience can throw some good suggestions out there please ?

R34 airbag Hey everybody, I found the cause for my flashing air bag light the passenger airbag isn't plugged in, I think the plug has been chopped off, I'll attach a photo, if anybody can confirm that this is the right wire that would be much help! Also if I was to attach a new plug, there are two wires, does it matter which wire goes where? Thanks

hi all I have a Series 1 Stagea that had RB25DET auto, motor died, SO ive got a RB25DET neo manual with matching Loom,ECU.(Motor is in car now) I understand that the series 1 fuse box is different and after searching know that ABS, Atessa and AC wont work. Has Someone wired this correctly to fix these issues, am wondering if i just have to re-pin the body plug to suit the series 1 pin out. sorry if newbie question struggling to find info on this. Thanks all.

Issue with alternator/headlights So my r32 gtst is having this problem where my car batteries would die the next day so i changed the car batteries 3 times and the problem persist. I figured maybe it was my alternator so i got a multi-meter and tested it the numbers coming in were in the normal ranges. I tried all the load test and they came back normal but the one thing i noticed was when i had my headlights on and i revved the car the voltages would drop on the meter down to not so normal ranges around 12 volts. On idle everything is normal but when i rev up the car around 1500-2000 it goes down only when headlights are on any idea what could be the problem?

So I was looking around in my boot to figure out how abs abs tcs have been disabled in my car and noticed this relay had been disconnected. Any idea what the disconnected relay does? (someone please tell me connecting it will fix my abs and tcs problem)

Hello, Recently I have been having an issue with my r34 gt where as soon as accessories are turned on and car is started I can hear an electronic buzz that is extremely high pitched. It seemed to be coming from the aircon vent next to the hazard button so I took out the aircon fuse whilst the car was running and the sound stopped. A very strange problem but the noise is driving me crazy does anyone have a solution to my problem? Thank you

Hi everyone, I hope everyone is having a good day as a skyline owner ( or enthusiast) I am having a very difficult time with my cluster at the moment. Here are a list of sections to my predicament: - None of the gauges work (except the turbo gauge I think) - The lights on the cluster will light up (handbrake light, check engine, battery etc. when I stall) but are not on regularly - I have sent the cluster to a specialist in the Eastern Melbourne suburbs. He took it all apart and said he could not see any issues with it - I have sent the car to the Auto Electricians in the Eastern Melbourne suburbs too, they had a look at the wiring and said they could not find anything wrong either - The car does not have a Speed Transducer in the car at the moment. I have bought one but have not yet fitted it. This leads to my questions. If I replace the speed transducer, will this fix the rest of the issues on the cluster? I was hoping that it maybe completed some form of a circuit for everything? Could it be the ECU? as far as I know I am still running the stock ECU

Hey guys, first time posting in the forum. Firstly, I have a v35 sedan 300gt limited with a vq30dd motor. The car runs super rich, suffers a misfire and struggles to start when hot, as well as going into limp mode. I have changed plugs, coils, maf, cam and crank sensors, replaced pcv and all vac lines, used upper cylinder head cleaner (I know the design get dirty as hell), scrubbed all carbon deposits and resealed all gaskets, i have a spare ecu. All this and I still can't get it to run nicely. Was wondering if anyone else has some ideas for me to get it to run and if not, wondering what the compatibility of the vq30dd loom is to a 35de? Kinda sick of trying to find parts for this obscure motor and worst case I'd potentially swap a 35de into it but I'm unsure how compatible the looms are and wether that is a massive job in of itself? Any and all help would be appreciated, cheers.