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Hey I’m currently doing a car audio install in a 2018 Kia cerato YD and I need some recommendations on that to do I’ve done some installations before but none with a dual battery set up I’m planning on using a 200-250a alternator and a slimline 170AH AGM in the back I’ve heard some people say just use a isolator whilst someone from a car audio shop says to use a regulator or Dc-dc charger I’ve looked everywhere for a reg or dc-dc that is 200-250a to keep up with the power draw from the 2-3kw monoblock I’m planning on getting i already own the battery and the sub but no idea what to do after the advice that if I don’t use a dc-dc or reg my battery might get too much charge and go short circuit and act like a welder so no idea now what to do idk if I’m allowed to post links I’m new here link to the alternator: https://www.powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=14962-250-HD1-1 theres also a stinger alternator that’s a 220a but I don’t have a link it would be custom made Cheers Rick

M35 Electrical gremlin Hey guys, I have quizzed a few of the facbook users in the M35 tuners group about this issue, but thought it might also be a good idea to see if anyone on here has any ideas that havent been thought of yet. For the better part of six weeks now, i have an issue with the car whenever it sits unoccupied in the sun (like carparks when shopping, or in full sun at work). The car shows on the dash firstly the AT light, and also drops out the speedo and gear selection on the dash. Then once the ABS decided s to do it little venting test on start up, it seems to hold the "vent" open for about 20-30 seconds, the the light stays on. I have been in a few positions when i have had to move the car with the issue present, and without jumping on the breaks, there dosn't appear to be any major noticeable issue with the breaking, but the trans is clearly unhappy. It slams pretty hard from N to D and it holds the gears a lot longer then it normally would. Then, once the windows are down and the cabin of the car cools down, slowly the AT will go back to normal then shortly after the ABS light will switch off. Also, to test the theory, i had parked the car in full sun yesterday (about 30 degrees) and cranked it over at about 4pm, sure enough the issue occurred. i then moved the car to the shade, left it with windows down for an hour, then fired it up again, no issues present. I had read on here that a faulty atessa ecu had caused ABS issues in the past, but there was no mention of faulty gauges with that. And also from what i have been told, the gauges are controlled by the iPDM, but that should not have any temp change in cabin as next to the battery. I have a new iPDM, BCM & ABS ecu coming from Josh, and will try those but does anyone else have any thoughts or had similar issues?

Hey all, so i own a absolute shitbox Mazda 121 Metro 01' Model, and unfortunately when put the new air intake in, as the MAF cable needed to be extended, I hand wired the cable and worked just fine. Somehow when the car had its Clutch replaced, the maf connector disconnected its wires from the plug and so I just believed i could re-wire it and it would be fine and go on its way. I am now at the stage where the motor is backfiring, stalling mostly on start and i imagine, is running at full rich, which is probably flooding the engine. I am also in Uni and have absolutely no money but need the car asap. So basically does anyone have any ideas of what to do since i have re-wired it several times now, and no such success has come. i first rewired the connector and plug, but the plug slowly has been deteriorating so i took the pins out and just for a test wired them to the maf (just by holding them in) to see if that would work but nothing has worked. I also was told that if i do not disconnect the battery, that the MAF sensor and connector could have some sort excess electrical energy inside the cables but i am not sure of how viable and answer that is Cheers all

Hi, I've got a problem that's getting on my nerves. Fuse at the bortom left side (10a) keeps on popping when i turn the key to on. I got problems with my climate control and fan blower and i have tried everything. Googled like a maniac and still can't find anything that sort my problem. Can this be related? I got three climate controls, so that isn't the problem ? I also tried removing all connectors to the fan blower motor, I've changed the temperature relay to. Please help, I'm getting desperate.

Hi all, I'm new to the area and have also just purchased my first Skyline. It needs a bit of work which normally I would cover myself, but I can't stand electrics (needs the drivers side power window fixed). Just checking too see if anyone could recommend a decent auto sparkie in the Rockingham area. I'm always happy for a cash job also! Cheers!

Hey guys & girls! Chasing a basemap or any map really for a r32/33 gtst and a wolf3d V4 to get my engine conversion running

Hi guys, Have had this issue with my R34 N/A sedan for a little while now. Probably about 3 months ago, whenever i would flick to high beams, my cd player would turn off and then turn back on. My speedo backlights would also flicker. I had my battery tested (which was the same battery which came with it from Japan), and was told it was not performing well, and purchased another. I believe that my alternator was also tested at this stage, and came up fine. A few weeks later, I had the same issue. So, I popped the bonnet and had a look at the battery terminals, just out of curiosity. The positive terminal appeared very SLIGHTLY loose, so i tightened it, and also cleaned it up a bit. Problems were gone, and no issues for another 2-3 months. Until tonight. Driving home, popped high beams on, and boom, headunit goes off, backlights flicker, and even the A/T light is glowing at me. I was pretty spooked by the A/T light, as I hadnt had this issue before. Anyway, I arrived at my home, and the light was off, and my high beams no longer affected any other components in my car. (I had been driving for 30 minutes - discovering the issue again in the meantime) I have these Ebay LED's in my parkers. And the rest of my headlights are standard Xenons. My headunit was also professionally installed. Can anybody lend any thoughts? Thanks!

so recently my r32 was dying due to the alternator not charging the battery, i took it out and replaced it with an rb25 alternator as i found they bolt right in and can be used on the rb20, went to reconnect my battery and got a couple sparks while doing so even though i made sure no electrics were on, however connected it up and car started up first go no worries. The problem is my electrics now dont work, no interior lights, no radio, no dash lights, no windows/mirrors. the parkers and headlights/tail lights still work and all mechanical components work normally, any ideas what this could be?