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Found 9 results

  1. Hi ther, i have a problem that came after i changed my baulbes in my AC, replaced them with LED's and my cluster started messing up, Fule and Engien heat is always on max, spedo don't work, and RPM bounces on 500-1000rpm on idel and under full pupp it only goes up to 3000rpm, and the KM on the car reads 999999. Changed back to my normal baulbes and cheked the wiers to chek if ther was any faulty wiers behind the AC unit but coudent finde anything, changed back to my old Baulbes and it stil dosent work. I alsow blew the fuse for "Tail L" wile replacing the baulbes and have replaced the fuse. So, what can be the problem? Can i have messed up the cluster and blew a resistor? is ther a relay that have exploded? I have had the AC unit and CD player out 6-7 times and tried to turn the key on and off, and sometimes it works like it shoud somtiems it just a bit faulty shoing way to hige RPM and the wrong KM (shows about 116k the car has traveld 160k) Sorry if the post is messy, im not always that good at explaning things
  2. I've got a 98' Series 2 Stagea and the 4wd doesn't work (See more here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463038-help-with-fault-finding-attesa-system-attesa-ecu-c34/#entry7685341) Just wondering how do i retrieve error codes relating to the 4wd system? I've got to the ABS/ESP computer (Also 4wd?) and a few forum posts reference a red flashing light through a hole or someone said it is on the PCB itself. I've pulled the cover off the computer and could not see a light anywhere (See photos attached). Is there another way to get the codes?
  3. Hi Guys, I have a NM35 Stagea and it wont start. i have Fault Code P1135 come up and googled and came up with this: http://engine-codes.com/p1135_nissan.html Possible causes - Faulty Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Bank 2 - Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Bank 2 harness is open or shorted - Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Bank 2 circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor (POS) - Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor What does this mean? Tech notes Since the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve uses oil flow to control timing, dirty oil can cause the valve to stuck open or close. Before replacing the valve, change engine oil and filter and reset engine code. What does this mean? When is the code detected? When there is a gap between angle of target and phase-control angle degree, the valve will stop working and the Engine Control Module (ECM) will trigger the P1135 code. Possible symptoms - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Possible engine lack/loss of power - Posssible engine rough idle Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1135_nissan.html#ixzz38AhpLpuN If anyone can give a bit more of an idea of what and where would be great. Thanks in advance
  4. Hey Everyone I have just put a standard RB25DET NEO into a R32 Gtst. Engine was out of an Auto r34 GTT rb25det neo) Ecu and loom is from a manual Stagea (rb25det neo) It ran perfect after i connected everything, took it for a spin and went great through all of the gears ! running 10psi now on my way back from testing i went to give it to it a bit and all it did was bog/misfire under load, so i thought maybe coilpacks/ spark plugs/ afm etc, Okay so i changed all that, bought new platinum spark plugs new conditioned afm, and another set of coilpacks, went for another drive, and again went good, THEN on the way back same thing its like as if the ecu reads something wrong and it goes into limp/safety mode??? also like to mention runs really rich too. OKAY now i have worked out when i disconnect the afm and put it back in its like as if it resets everything and when i go for a drive i get about 10 seconds of running good then it goes back to bogging/ misfiring under load. Is there something im missing that needs to be connected to the ecu ? what is causing this to happen? Also I dont have a diagnosis plug haha and wanted to also ask if i buy a power FC with hand held and connect that to a computer will that tell me what is wrong, and a friend of mine told me a power fc ecu does not have limp/safety mode so will run normal with one, is this true? Thanks kindly !!
  5. Hi guys I have a V36 and I'm having issues with my intelligent key system, problem started about a year ago as low key fob battery warning on the dash even with a new battery in the remote, then a few weeks ago the remote started not being detected intermittently and quickly deteriorated to not being detected at all, I have to use the key to open the door and then place the key fob in the slot in the dash to start the car. I have two remotes and the faults aren't specific to one, I'm guessing the wireless receiver in the car has failed, has anyone else had this? Thanks
  6. Attesa not working I have a S1 C34 that is manual converted, with power fc. I have the secret squirrel mod done. It previously had an extreme TSC that I removed thinking that may be the cause, but no change. My AWD has never worked since I bought the car 2 years ago. When I purchased the car the owner said the Attesa needed to be bled since the gearbox had been out. I bled the Attesa and it still doesn't work. I can hear the pump prime when I turn ign on and it runs occasionally while sitting at idle. I have had the awd and abs lights come on and stay on after sitting idle for long periods. I don't seem to have any fault codes to try and work out why it doesn't work. I have checked that the Attesa ECU is receiving a TPS signal and that is all ok. I'd really like to get it working, as it is hard getting the power down just through the rear wheels. I've been reading and am thinking either pressure switch or accumulator. Is there any way to check these for sure?
  7. Hi Guys, Thought I would write up a tutorial, as I just finished changing the clock spring in my M35. This is the most common cause of the Airbag error light flashing on the dash in modern Nissans. First of all, the disclaimer - you take on any work at your own risk, I'm in no way responsible for damage to you or your car if you attempt this. If you don't know how to do mechanical stuff, this probably isn't for you. We are dealing with an airbag, which contains explosive material and mishandling will set it off and break your face. Right? Backstory: OK, I have a flashing airbag error light. Unfortunately my error code reading system wouldn't read the airbag errors, only BCM and ECU related codes. So off I go to my friendly Nissan Dealer. Plugged into CONSULT, I get a B1049 Drivers Airbag module Open code. My friendly Nissan Tech explains the most common fault from this is the Clock Sping, which is the unit that keeps the airbag electrically connected while you are swinging the wheel back and forth. In fact, by chance he has to do one on a Pathfinder that arvo (it's that common...). Looked up the part in FAST, and ordered it. The cost is around the $180 mark incl GST from the dealership. 2 week wait ex Japan. On to the fitting! The only special tool you will need is a 6 pointed T30 security torx style thingo. This is to undo the airbag in the very first step. The entire process shouldn't take you more than about 1 hour. Took me a little longer taking photos and finding out shit along the way. FIRST STEP- Park the car on a level place, with the steering centred. Turn car off. ****DISCONNECT THE BATTERY**** this is very important cause you don't want the airbag to go off in your face. Drain the system of any residual charge via the horn, interior lights, etc etc. Undo the two security torx bolts that hold in the airbag. The airbag will slide out towards you. Point it away from you. Look at the back of the airbag, using a small flathead screwdriver, gently raise the black tab on the plug, and pull the yellow connector out. Place the airbag somewhere out of the way, with the nissan badge facing upwards, not near any electrical charge. Next unplug the yellow earth, and grey plug. Using a 19mm socket, loosen the steering wheel nut, but don't remove it completely. Pull the steering wheel towards you, this will require force, and a bit of a wiggle (or a puller if you have one...). Place the steering wheel aside. This is what it will look like On the underside, remove the two phillips screws, and the cover will split in half Now the clock spring is held on by two Phillips screws, either side, at the 8 and 4 positions. Remove the large plug from the top left if the unit, and once you have taken the screws out, remove the two plugs on the bottom of the unit, one yellow, one grey. There is a small clip on the top of the unit to hold it in place, depress and remove it. It will then come off into your hands. You will have to change over the stalks onto the new unit. this is done by depressing two clips on either side of the stalk and pulling it out. It has a little plug that will guide you. Put them back onto your new clock spring, making sure the clip into place, and the plugs are fully seated. Notice the new clock spring has a plastic guard over the plug. The clock spring comes pre-centred. Do not remove this until you are ready to place the steering wheel back onto the clock spring. This ensures it works for the range of motion of the wheel, and isn't 360 degrees out of alignment. To put your new assembly back on, plug in the three plugs, and tighten the two Phillips screws. Put the yellow airbag plug through the hole in the steering wheel, and plug the yellow earth, and grey steering wheel control plug back in. Make sure you put the steering wheel back on straight- there are guide markings. Tighten the 19mm nut firmly. Tuck the wires back into their holders. Carefully replace the airbag plug, and depress the black clip to secure the plug. Slide the airbag unit back onto the wheel, and secure it via the two torx fittings. Connect your battery, and go and turn your ignition on, but make sure you are not sitting in the drivers seat ( do it from outside the car, incase you have farked up...). Nothing explodes...? Good. Check all your stalk functions and horm works ok. Now, to clear the flashing light, follow the steps found in other posts, which is basically turn ign on, as soon as you see the airbag light go off, turn ign off, wait 5 secs turn ign on again, repeat this 4 or 5 times. Start the car and the airbag light should not be flashing. Have a beer.
  8. Hi Peeps, just thought to post this up, even if it comes in handy one day for someone with the same fault. As we know SAU is a great community for anything Skyline related I wont go into full detail, just a basic overview - I recently completed mods to my R33 and got the vehicle tuned. After a long 2 1/2 years in prep and paint and taking the vehicle off the road. I had to remove all mods for RWC - the last 2 days I removed exhaust side and Intake side basically everything to change back to stock. After fitting everything up and double checking to ensure I had covered all bases, checked earth connections, sensor plugs. Was time to fit the stock ECU and turn the key. On the initial first cranking it did not start within 5 or so seconds, tried again, nothing at all. Was safe to assume something isn't working. After I turned the key to the off position I noticed a relay located next to the ECU kept clicking. ECCS relay - I thought it may have had something to do with the AFM wiring so I double checked it, only because one mod is the upgraded AFM - then tested the AFM wiring with Multi meter seems to have correct readings. And when I unplugged the AFM the ECCS relay stopped clicking. Also because I had changed to a S1 inlet manifold - I thought to also swap out the TPS with my S2 item. I then turned the key to on but not start and the ECCS was still clicking when the key was turned off. At this stage, I ran a quick ECU fault code diagnostic check - results were code 55 - no faults recorded. I installed the Apexi PFC back into the vehicle and got Co-Pilot running to set the TPS to the correct setting. And also check the sensor readings - everything seemed to be correct, except the TPS which was on 9. Last thing was to open the Stock ECU housing - seen as it was sitting for 7 years to inspect inside for potential corrosion. And there it was as clear as day. Capacitor corroded. Also ran a quick test with the multimeter and found the number 2 was showing zero reading and all others were in the 460 to 470 range. Even though number 1 shows a reading but also corrosion I would be replacing this as well. After finding this - i uploaded a base map back into the Apexi and car fired up straight away. Its kind of constipated going from 360kw back to stock If it helps just one person in the future then its all well worth the very small effort.
  9. V36 Sedan - Unable to close rear left window from driver switch Hey guys, just found out today that from my driver side window switch I am unable to close rear left window. All other windows works fine from switch, and even to open the window of the rear left works fine, it just doesnt close Have attempted to do the automatic window reset technique but to no avail. Any suggestions?
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