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Brand new, no longer needed These retail over $500-Asking 380 FPR2000 (there largest in that model) can flow huge power, only mod is AN3 vacuum port-Driven less that 5k’s bexley area

Hi all, This may seem like a relatively easy thing to do, but I have just finished changing mine out and had a ridiculously hard time removing the lines. For anyone wanting to save a few bucks and change it out themselves I just thought this could help them out with this thread. This will be aimed at an R34 rb25det neo, but it's all pretty much the same. (will update with pictures later) Parts required: Ryco Z201 Time taken: Allow 1/2 hour Tools: 1/4 driver ratchet with 10 and 13mm socket Phillips head screwdriver Flat head screw driver Multigrips Vice (can be done without, but EXTREMELY useful) 7/16 or 11/12/13 mm open ended spanner (not needed, but makes the job easier) Rags or container Torch/Light Park the car in a garage/shady spot where you will do the work. Let the car cool unless you want to get burnt (dunno maybe you're into that kind of stuff). Step 1 - Depressurize the fuel system. Inside the drivers kick panel is a fuse pack, revealed by lifting a tab and taking out a rectangular plastic panel. In the top row of the fuses there should be 10 | 10 | 10 | 15 amp fuses. Using needle nose pliers, remove the 15A fuse (should be the one closest to the door). This is the fuse for the fuel pump. Once removed, try to start the car. If it starts, let it run and splutter out, then try to start again. This is just allowing the injectors to inject the remaining high pressure fuel in the system so when you remove the filter there isn't any chance of hydraulic injection. Step 2 - Isolate the car This step isn't absolutely required, but you are working in close proximity and will be leaning over close to the battery. If you don't mind losing your programmed radio stations, it would be a good idea for piece of mind. Step 3 - Removal of the filter I tried just removing the hose clamps from around the filter in/out lines, but if it hasn't been changed in a long time like mine - best of luck to you - I had to wrench the puppy in a vice, which showed that I had no chance while it was still in the car. After long periods of time the rubber retains it's shape where the clamp is, and makes it super tight. Locate the filter on the drivers side of the engine bay. From the in side of the filter, there should be a rubber hose connecting to a metal line via a hose clamp, using a 10mm socket, undo the clamp and let it slide down onto the metal line. Give the line a gentle yank. Not moving? Yeah, neither did mine. The easist way I found was using the 7/16 spanner, slide it onto the metal line and use it to pull the rubber up off the line. PRECAUTION: It will be tight, watch out to not slip and slice yourself on something. PRECAUTION # 2: There WILL be fuel in the line. Not much, but there will be. Don't have any sources of ignition nearby (another reason why having the battery disconnected is a good idea) and rags to clean the fuel. Option 1: Pull it off and use a rag to try capture as much of the fuel. Option 2: Place a container directly under the line on the floor and catch it on the way down. I just let mine drip, I'm a badass like that. From the out side of the filter, it will lead to a fitting near the intake manifold. Remove the clamp, and using a flat head screwdriver - pry it away from the fitting and use the spanner to pull it the rest of the way. Again, there will be fuel in the line. Less this time, but have a rag ready. Your filter should now be free with a line on each end. Take note which way the filter was sitting in the car (hopefully "OUT" was feeding your fuel rail) and what lines go on which end. Step 4 - Change out the filter Place the filter in a vice with one end of the filter where the rubber line starts in line with the edge of the vice. Doesn't matter if you overtighten it, the filter should be going in the bin anyway, Undo the clamp on the line, and using the multigrips twist the line to just free it up. Pry it off with the screwdriver/spanner combo (if it really hard to get off - using 2 flat head screwdrivers and the sides of the vice as leverage points may help. Just watch not to slip and cut yourself). Repeat on the other side, and replace the lines on the new filter - correct lines for IN/OUT, etc. Make sure there isn't any dirt and shit in the lines when you put them on, especially in the out side, as it will be unfiltered straight to your injectors. Step 5 - Replace everything Grab the clamps from the metal line and slide it on the rubber before you install it, makes it a little easier, doesn't matter what order you do it. Don't over tighten the clamps, remember when you removed them they were not overly tight. Remember to grab all your tools from the engine bay, and clean up all the spilt fuel, especially before putting the battery terminal back on. Put the negative back on the battery (yes it may spark, hope you cleaned your mess) and put the fuse back into the correct spot. Before starting your car, turn the key to IGN - the fuel pump has to prime the system (bring it up to operating pressure), so now is a good time to look for leaks. Just check all the lines that you tampered with, make sure nothing is leaking. If it isn't, start your car and away you go! Congratulations, you just saved yourself $50 from a mechanic. If anyone has any input, questions, advice or a better way of doing this, let me know and I can put in on here. Cheers for reading. (Y)

Hey guys, Could someone help me out please - I'm in desperate need of a pink slip for my R32 GTS-T. My only posssible defects are an exposed pod filter and aftermarket HIDs. I had my car booked in to a guy this morning but he knocked me back 'cause of the pod. Can anyone please help me out? Preferably Sydney Inner West (I'm in Haberfield) - I'd REALLY appreciate the help, especially if someone could help me ASAP. Thanks in advance guys! Josh.

Hey everyone, To start this is embarrassing that I even have to post about this but, apparently I'm not the only one with this problem according to other forums. Yesterday I did some much needed maintenance to my recently bought GTR. I changed out the brake pads, turned the rotors and replaced the HKS air filters. I also ATTEMPTED to change my oil... When it came time to swap out the oil filter, I spent 3.5 hours trying to the get the old one off. I used three different styles of oil filter wrenches and neither of them did the trick. When I could actually get both my hand and the wrench down there to torque it off, it would just dent and puncture the filter. The filter now looks like a soup can that someone kicked off of a cliff and screwed it onto the side of my rb26 lol. I'm out of ideas. Contemplating taking off the air plenum and possibly retorting the wires and hoses that are surrounding the filter of possible to make future oil changes easier. Ideas or similar experiences?

Hey guys, So i'm planning on purchasing an oil filter relocation kit. I have seen the trust/greddy ones going around but am unsure on the quality of them as the fittings they use on the hoses are hose clamp fittings as apposed to JIC (better seal, and have been told to use if i can) and the plate/adapter that goes where your oil filter is, screws on like a filter and i have heard these apparently leak?. Just after any experiences you guys have had with these kits or any recomendations on any particular kits. I have found this one, not sure on it tho... http://www.tunershop.fr/tunershop/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/224/products_id/13115/osCsid/3u51mhpj6u9vjk25d4nsjui903 Heres the greddy kit im refering to. http://www.garage7.com.au/home/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1357&category_id=92&keyword=greddy&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53 any help would be appreciated!

Hey Guys and Girls want your opinion on cold air intake for r33 i'm thinking of two options for cold air intake opinion one set up like this but if i set up like this i'm pretty sure it will be classified as an illegal mod or pod filter in an enclosed box and running a pipe underneath which do you reckon will be better

Hi all This should be really be in "do you know what grinds my gears" Every time I go to the auto shop all I see is that every brand claims to be the best, and that really really I mean really gets up my skin..... To the point I wanted to buy the oil and start doing testing... myself at own cost but that’s expensive 1. test I will one day do is a heat test... take 0.25ltr of oil put on lab stove at 300c see how long it take to turn into sludge test are very expensive so that’s why oil company do them but no one shows their Competitors showing a test thats said our oil gives you 20hp extra then competitor 1 competitor 2 or 3 to me comp1 could be home brand olive oil and comp2 coles brand motor oil you get me anyway I gotta cool down just writing this made me have 180 over 120 blood pressure Enjoy the link. taken me a long time to find, some oils are outdated but it’s the best i got if you have any independent tests that you got your sticky hands on please share http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

HEY ALL, I'm new to the scene, finally a PROUD SKYLINE OWNER ! I hope i'm writing this in the right topic as i'm not much of a forum guy and my English is not the best either. Now i have been wanting to buy a skyline for the last 15 years at least ( i'm 33 now) i'm from Germany originally and it was an utter fortune to get one over there. As i made Australia my home now my dream finally came true. So i recently purchased a bargain manual R34 GT-T , rb 25detneo with 106000-km and its pretty much factory stock. - Now i'm getting a a high but steady oil reading at 135c after a few minutes driving (normaly :-D) - also the water reading is at 120c (steady) The engine seams to run super smooth the needle doesn't move in idle, there are no noises from the engine what so ever. the oil gauge on the main dash sits less then halfway . I got a service done after purchase at a trusted mechanic (even though he said he doesn't really know (those cars) ? the only issue he mentioned was a small oil leak from the O-ring at the Oil-Cooler and also a small oil leak from the engine rocker cover gasket. Now after a lot of research i was hoping to get some input from you guys on what to do. i have order a new engine rocker cover gasket still trying to find the O-Ring, to get that sorted, but i'm not shure if that will fix the high readings , should i just go and buy a quality OIL cooler (not the cheap shit) and maybe a good water-pump?! Also can anyone recommend a mechanic with skyline experience in the Sydney area ? JUST-JAP gave me a number to call of one of their trusted mechanics but he never seems to pick up the phone :-) Thanks for reading any help would be much appreciated ! Thanks Pete

R33 gts-t all stock, would I get more power from a pod filter, stock air box with K&N or stock air box with stock air filter, Im fitting new font mount and just wondering?

Heya Im looking at buying a new pod filter for my R34 RB25DET Neo. Last owner had a DRiFT one in there. I want to get the APEXi Power Intake pod filter but I've heard there's alot of fake ones out there on the market (ebay). So I want to make sure that I'm buying the official one and not the fake one. I saw some ones on ebay from china, philippines for like less than $40, so that to me sounds like fake. There is this one on ebay for $84 from Aus: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231873798273?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Does this one look legit?

Hi everyone, I just recently bought and installed a stock air box to my r34 gtt because it had a mushroom filter in it because i thought they were illegal and moving interstate i didnt want to have a hassle with a rwc. The mushroom filter had brackets attached to it and bolted to the body so it didnt move at all, my question is, are they illegal like the uncovered pods? Like i mentioned before, im a noob and new to the jdm/performance scene so any help would be appreciated

Hi, So, I spent some time replacing the pre filters in my sytec bullet filters This is the state of the paper filter that came out: - Disgusting.. I replaced with: - This could be the reason why the fuel pressure was dropping at high rpm/boost on the dyno after there was some residual heat in the system but I'll keep track of it because there could be a number of other reasons. I didn't bother changing the lift pump filter as I think that these don't tend to get that dirty and it's not been in long. Literally, 7000rpm @ 1.8bar after about 8 pulls on the dyno and fuel pressure was dropping from 8bar to 5bar and going lean which meant stopping for the day; I needed to get this fixed so it didn't get worse. It could still be a problem or the problem could just have been vapourising due to the pressure and heat from having an 8micron filter before the pump. So that paper filter in the image is 8 microns which was sitting before the 044 bosch pump. This isn't really ideal, as I've subsequently found out that it can cause the pump to work quite a lot harder and could limit life (probably causing some level of vapour lock as well). What I've done is dropped in a stainless steel 55micron pre filter into the sytec bullets I've checked with a few other sources and I'm getting some conflicting responses; some people are saying that 55micron filtering of fuel is sufficient and most modern cars don't even have fuel filters! Others are saying that you need to filter further to reduce the risk of damaging the injectors. I don't really think I should be filtering pre pumps at 8micron though, that's for sure. The current setup is: - 450lph walbro lift pump into swirl pot which feeds 2x bosch 044 fuel pumps (both pre filtered by sytec bullet filters - now 55 micron/was 8), which then goes to the greddy injector rail and feeds both sides. The injectors are ID1000s and do not have the adapters which filter at 7micron per injector. Any advice would be appreciated; I'd also be really interested to know how some of the other big power cars support fuelling and where the filtering is performed. I guess the point probably is that race cars break and get repaired and thus it's outweighing the costs with the safety measures. Thanks!

Hey all, My catch can filters were filthy with crap bubbling out and dripping everywhere, so when I changed the oil I gave them a good clean. Now that the filters aren't saturated in crap, there is quite a lot of vapour coming out of the filters. It seems to smell kind of sweet, doesn't smell like exhaust gas or anything like that. I would say the amount lessens or stays the same with revs - it doesn't appear to get any worse. Here are a couple of videos showing the vapour. https://photos.app.goo.gl/pnYO6bEGi3dFsCHk1 Keen to know what people think! Cheers,

just got some used/new parts for sale 1. r33 gtr air box used has a damaged clip but still seals and works check pic asking $100 ono 2. 2 x rb26dett air flow meters both have a bit of mesh damage but i have used them for over 1 1/5 years and had no issuse with them. asking $50 each ono 3. Hks air filter 3 layer only used for about 50km before i got pods, still new asking $50 ono 4. greddy y pipe new never used comes with all the clamps and silicone parts asking $250 ono i can ship items at buyers expense, all items located in brisbane. please contact me on my moblie as i dont always get a chance to check sau as i am at work. 0415298948 cheers goran.

Hello Skyliners, I have For Sale a set of Blitz SUS Twin Pod filters with brackets screws etc which came of my R32 GTR. (Pics Attached) These pods bolt directly over the stock AFM's so i'm unsure if they're suitable for aftermarket ones unless the bolt patterns are the same. Brackets are included but I have no idea which goes where as I made up an airbox for mine and never used them. Selling cos I like the look of the red Apexi filters better Looking for $200 for the kit and willing to post at buyers expense. Located in South East Melbourne Suburbs Send me a PM if interested or SMS me at 0400370477 Thanks for looking Dennis

for r33. taking them off on saturday as going back to stock airbox. used for less than 1000ks. brilliant condition. intake pipe has two breathers for recirc and oil breather. is painted black for stealthy ninja look. paint stripper will cure this, to expose rainbow lobster piping. filter is brand fecking new. still have the box. located south east melbourne. text only 0423874575. oh also comes with a bracket and adapter for afm. intake $120 hks filter $50 adpater plate and bracket $20? all up 150. can post at buyers cost. will have pictures on saturday. still on car being used.

OEM airbox for both 33 and 34 gtr. Comes with barely used k&n panel filter. Looking for $200. Text me on Zero Four Three Three Three Zero Two Eight Nine Four Collection in Docklands during business hours or Sunshine after hours and weekends.

Nismo S Tune Panel Air Filter suit many models Hi All, I have a brand new Nismo S Tune Air Filter Element. Still in it's original box and never used. It suits numerous models including Skylines, Stageas, Pulsars and of course all models of the GTR. These are at least $100 retail so I am asking $60. Happy to post at buyers expense ($10). If you'd like to check if it suits your car it is part number A6546-1JB00

Hi SAU, Clearing out a few parts as I unfortunately no longer have my Skyline R34 GT-T stock airbox, snorkel and aftermarket panel filter - $120 R34 A-pillar Gauge holder - $15 R34 Series 1 front reflectors with globes- GREAT condition, pair - $30 R34 side indicator covers - weathered - $10 R34 weathershields - genuine Nissan I believe, but old and turning 'purple'' - clips not in best condition - $40 Single din early-gen touchscreen stereo - nothing fancy at all, but is good enough to get radio reception and accepts USB playback. Couldn't figure out the bluetooth. Comes with remote, stylus, cable, fascia cover, and wiring harness - $30 Location Homebush, or Kurrajong. Pick-up preferred Please sms enquiries to 0431965540 Cheers, Mick

R33 gts-t factory air box for sale. Very good condition. No broken parts. Comes with original snorkel and panel filter. $120ono Located in Hornsby NSW. Pick up only. PM if interested

http://www.fivetenautomotive.com.au/filtration/pro-series-fuel-filter/pro-filters.html Perfect addition to any EFI system