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Found 4 results

  1. Hi all I'm installing a hks gt-rs turbo on my r34 GTT. Read that I should prime it before I drive and to do that I need to cut the fuel supply or ignition. Could anyone recommend which I should do? Would I just remove a fuse and if so does anyone know which one? Also if anyone has any tips like pouring oil directly into the turbo before etc feel free to share! Cheers
  2. Hi guys, Have done some research on SAU and online but haven't come up with a definitive answer yet. Car details: bog stock except turbo back exhaust, aftermarket bov, turbosmart boost tee @ 8 psi, brand new yellow jackets, Milliseconds after hitting boost it feels like I've hit a brick wall (like foot is off the accelerator when it physically isn't). I'll try to accelerate again but instead it's an intermittent violent herky jerky motion as if I'm repeatedly on and off the accelerator. If I attempt to smoothly apply throttle without boost it may pick up again. Sometimes I will come to a stop and car will stall. While car is decelerating I can see the boost guage fluctuate according to the pressure I'm applying to the accelerator. Though not as pronounced, the engine sometimes will also cut out intermittently after a warm start on idle and stall...doesn't happen on a cold start. The other night also had trouble starting the engine from warm. It would crank fine but would only fire for a second then stall. Tried starting repeatedly and got it to idle fine after about half an hour of attempting. Thought it could've been coilpacks so I got brand new ones along with plugs and dropped them in but same issue. I've recently cleaned the AAC valve and AFM in the past month. I've read that it could be the cam/crank angle sensor? Possible timing issue - RnR? Fuel cutting? Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
  3. Before anyone asks, yes i've done the usual searches but I couldnt find anything definitive Background: Stock Rb25det NEO. standard intake, exhaust, boost and ecu. Engine shuddering or hitting fuel cut whenever WOT and high boost (bucking like a mechanical bull), other than that, it ran fine. boosted down low ok, seems to run smooth(ish). didnt run rich, was getting on average about 450k's per tank Replaced spark plugs with NGK coppers (1.1mm). Car then had absolutely no torque down low, would backfire constantly when cold or after WOT (which was necessary to get the friggin thing to move) and wouldn't rev over 5000rpm. It felt like it hit Rich and Retard. No codes were thrown I noticed that the boost gauge was reading a little high after the plug change, and found a vacuum line from the charcoal canister had frayed and cracked causing a vacuum leak. Replaced this and boost reading went back to normal. I then replaced the Airflow sensor (2nd hand from wreckers), Coilpacks (splitfires), Coilpack lead (Genuine) and Sparkplugs (NGK BKR6EIX-11). This made a HUGE difference. the old coilpacks were likely from the factory and were just producing a weak spark. Reset the ECU, still ran rich when cold (but not as rich), low-down torque came back but still cant rev over 5000rpm (feels like the engine just goes back to the R&R state) It does backfire a little when cold or after WOT (more like a few pops instead of a full blown backfire). Still no codes thrown Does the ECU lock out the top 2000 RPM when its 'learning'? or is it something else? What should I be looking at next? O2 Sensor? Replace/check all Vacuum and Intake lines? Cam angle sensor? Really running out of ideas here
  4. Hi guys, hope I wish you could help me. Change fuel regulator, fuel pump, dynamics injectors 1050cc, fuel rail (radium) on my skyline R33. It keeps staying lean when warms up. Fuel regulator have kind of pulse and it is undriveable. I'm going to clean my fuel tank and lines, but just trying to find out what could be.
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