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Hi All, I'm chasing a set of 6 fuel injectors for my R34 RB25DET NEO. Prefer a brand new set that you may no longer need! Standard 14mm rail - 3/4 length. Would like to retain the stock wiring loom - so if you have wiring adapters for bosch/ID/Siemens, great! Oh, and I'm chasing the 250-300rwkw mark (still undecided).

Hi all, This may seem like a relatively easy thing to do, but I have just finished changing mine out and had a ridiculously hard time removing the lines. For anyone wanting to save a few bucks and change it out themselves I just thought this could help them out with this thread. This will be aimed at an R34 rb25det neo, but it's all pretty much the same. (will update with pictures later) Parts required: Ryco Z201 Time taken: Allow 1/2 hour Tools: 1/4 driver ratchet with 10 and 13mm socket Phillips head screwdriver Flat head screw driver Multigrips Vice (can be done without, but EXTREMELY useful) 7/16 or 11/12/13 mm open ended spanner (not needed, but makes the job easier) Rags or container Torch/Light Park the car in a garage/shady spot where you will do the work. Let the car cool unless you want to get burnt (dunno maybe you're into that kind of stuff). Step 1 - Depressurize the fuel system. Inside the drivers kick panel is a fuse pack, revealed by lifting a tab and taking out a rectangular plastic panel. In the top row of the fuses there should be 10 | 10 | 10 | 15 amp fuses. Using needle nose pliers, remove the 15A fuse (should be the one closest to the door). This is the fuse for the fuel pump. Once removed, try to start the car. If it starts, let it run and splutter out, then try to start again. This is just allowing the injectors to inject the remaining high pressure fuel in the system so when you remove the filter there isn't any chance of hydraulic injection. Step 2 - Isolate the car This step isn't absolutely required, but you are working in close proximity and will be leaning over close to the battery. If you don't mind losing your programmed radio stations, it would be a good idea for piece of mind. Step 3 - Removal of the filter I tried just removing the hose clamps from around the filter in/out lines, but if it hasn't been changed in a long time like mine - best of luck to you - I had to wrench the puppy in a vice, which showed that I had no chance while it was still in the car. After long periods of time the rubber retains it's shape where the clamp is, and makes it super tight. Locate the filter on the drivers side of the engine bay. From the in side of the filter, there should be a rubber hose connecting to a metal line via a hose clamp, using a 10mm socket, undo the clamp and let it slide down onto the metal line. Give the line a gentle yank. Not moving? Yeah, neither did mine. The easist way I found was using the 7/16 spanner, slide it onto the metal line and use it to pull the rubber up off the line. PRECAUTION: It will be tight, watch out to not slip and slice yourself on something. PRECAUTION # 2: There WILL be fuel in the line. Not much, but there will be. Don't have any sources of ignition nearby (another reason why having the battery disconnected is a good idea) and rags to clean the fuel. Option 1: Pull it off and use a rag to try capture as much of the fuel. Option 2: Place a container directly under the line on the floor and catch it on the way down. I just let mine drip, I'm a badass like that. From the out side of the filter, it will lead to a fitting near the intake manifold. Remove the clamp, and using a flat head screwdriver - pry it away from the fitting and use the spanner to pull it the rest of the way. Again, there will be fuel in the line. Less this time, but have a rag ready. Your filter should now be free with a line on each end. Take note which way the filter was sitting in the car (hopefully "OUT" was feeding your fuel rail) and what lines go on which end. Step 4 - Change out the filter Place the filter in a vice with one end of the filter where the rubber line starts in line with the edge of the vice. Doesn't matter if you overtighten it, the filter should be going in the bin anyway, Undo the clamp on the line, and using the multigrips twist the line to just free it up. Pry it off with the screwdriver/spanner combo (if it really hard to get off - using 2 flat head screwdrivers and the sides of the vice as leverage points may help. Just watch not to slip and cut yourself). Repeat on the other side, and replace the lines on the new filter - correct lines for IN/OUT, etc. Make sure there isn't any dirt and shit in the lines when you put them on, especially in the out side, as it will be unfiltered straight to your injectors. Step 5 - Replace everything Grab the clamps from the metal line and slide it on the rubber before you install it, makes it a little easier, doesn't matter what order you do it. Don't over tighten the clamps, remember when you removed them they were not overly tight. Remember to grab all your tools from the engine bay, and clean up all the spilt fuel, especially before putting the battery terminal back on. Put the negative back on the battery (yes it may spark, hope you cleaned your mess) and put the fuse back into the correct spot. Before starting your car, turn the key to IGN - the fuel pump has to prime the system (bring it up to operating pressure), so now is a good time to look for leaks. Just check all the lines that you tampered with, make sure nothing is leaking. If it isn't, start your car and away you go! Congratulations, you just saved yourself $50 from a mechanic. If anyone has any input, questions, advice or a better way of doing this, let me know and I can put in on here. Cheers for reading. (Y)

Stagea C34/M35 Parts & Viper Alarm Hi all, I used to own a 1997 C34 auto Nissan Stagea and a 2002 NM35 auto Nissan Stagea and have some spare parts lying around and would like to sell them. I have uploaded some pictures and can send more via email or sms. 1 x Viper alarm system 5806V with GPS tracking and remote start with additional tilt and audio sensors - Brand New - $850 1 x C34 stock exhaust (I think I have turbo back) - $100 1 x C34 stock wheel - $50 1 x C34 auto series 1 viscous LSD - $300 1 x C34 fuel tank with no fuel pump - $50 1 x C34 auto series 1 prop shaft (requires reconditioning) - $50 1 x R32 GTR Nismo fuel pump - used and in good condition - $220 1 x RB25DET JJR blue silicone heater hose set (missing 2 pieces) New - $80 1 x RB25DET valley cover (please note the snorkel pictured has been sold) - $20 3 x Camber correction Superpro and Whiteline Bushes (SPF3154K, SPF1869K & KCA347) - New - $300 for the lot or $120 each 6 x RB26DETT stock pistons and rods. I may have RB25 and/or also RB30 pistons and rods. $50 for the lot. 1 x M35 Stock ECU - $150 1 x M35 HKS SLD to remove 180km/hr speed cut (NEW) - $350 6 x M35 stock injectors - $50 1 x M35 stock intercooler and fan - $50 1 x M35 stock turbo actuator - $50 That's all I can think of now. If you have any questions please feel free to pm me. I'm located at Derrimut, Victoria. I am also happy to post at buyer's expense. Cheers, Kandio

Fuel pump not receiving power hey guys, so i have recently starting working on my 98 four door i have gotten it turning over with the starter but it is getting no fuel. i pulled the pump and have found a replacement for it, ready to go but decided to test the connections and found there is no power. i have traced it back, checked fuses, got to the relay and found there is only one relay and two terminals. so questions are: is the fuel pump relay in the boot behind the brake lights? the color of the cable running to the pump and to these terminals seem to be different how do i tell if a relay is working? i have a multimetre but i am only getting continuity on some posts. do both connections require a relay?

Bass Hill United No longer selling E85. Hey guys, just a heads up.. Went to Bass Hill United last week to fill up my jerry's to only find out they don't sell E85 anymore. Also Prairiewood United are no longer 24 hours, opening hours are 4am - 10pm. Hopefully no other changes other than good ones...

Hi all, has anyone experienced fuel gauge issues below a quarter of a tank? Mine fluctuates wildly but seems to right itself after a bit of driving/sloshing but can drop as low as an 8th and turn the light on but then come back up to a quarter. Annoyingly the DTE under the 'boost leaf' must get its readings from the same sensor as that fluctuates too. Does this model still have a conventional float level sensor? Could it just be dirty contacts?

Hi guys and girls, Does anybody have a HR31 fuel pump bracket and sender laying around that they would sell to me? I don't need the pump, just the bracket and sender unit. Thanks, Geoff.

Hey everyone, Trying to resurrect my R32 GTST which now has a rusty fuel tank. Retrofitting a plastic tank from the R32 GTR should be the way to go if I can still find one around. If anyone has some info, a contact, some guidance, it would be greatly appreciated. So essentially I'll be looking for the complete tank with filler neck, pump cradle and cap Thank you very much,

The market is saturated with fakes at the moment.... Here's a heads up https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.614011205349032.1073741828.142150452535112&type=1

Hi I'm getting a bigger turbo for my gtt and I'm wondering if I need to get an aftermarket ecu and a tune or an apexi afc to controll the air:fuel ratio. Does anyone know what's better for a car ? Also nistune or power fc for an auto? I know there's a lot of threads but they all have different answers. Any help would be greatly appreciated

hey just got back from up north jumed in my r34gtt drove it not even10kms and when i took off around a corner medium accelaration it made a wierd sound like the sound it makes if youd try to boot it while tcs is on i then deccelarted and now shes running crazy makes that sound like its missing or sumthing every time i accelarate please help me fix my beautiful machine

R34 GTT Mid-High range power loss Hey Guys, I'm new to this whole Skyline thing. Just bought myself a R34 GTT about a week ago. Runs great.. Besides getting sub 250km a tank.. Yeah.. I also feel when it comes onto boost its fine but as soon as you go over 4500 rpm it starts to splutter a bit then comes back. While that's happening its blowing a crap load of black smoke out the back. I'm assuming it has something to do with 02 Sensor? I had a look through the receipts and I saw that it has Spitfire coil packs.. Not too sure what they are but they were $600.(I mean I know what coil packs are) Previous owner must of got a CEL because he got it diagnosed and it said bad 02 Sensor. Next question is how much and where is it located... If it's even got to do with the 02 sensor.. Im not sure.. If someone could help that would greatly be appreciated.

Aftermarket fuel level sender So suffered the pain of my fuel sender deciding to not do what its designed to do on my 1990 R32 gtst, once i get it working and have a full tank it will be fine until i get to the 1/4 tank mark and it will drop straight to empty. even if i refill the tank to full the gauge wont move. i have taken the sender out and cleaned it but still no dice. I have been looking at Summit fuel sender unit tubes but i'm not sure if they will be compatible as i'm not the most electronically and fuel system sound. does anyone have any previous experience with either my sender issue or the summit ones? any help would be much appreciated cheers

1994 R33 skyline cutting out Hey guys i was hoping someone could help me diagnose a problem i'm having: So i have a 1994 R33 GTS-4 N/A Auto, lately I have noticed that my car keeps cutting out when i'm driving it, it almost always happens when i give it too much gas (starts revving again when you release the gas a little bit) and when my fuel tank is under halfway full. A bit of a background: I have had a faulty coil pack replaced the car was only running on 5 cylinders, i have replaced all spark plugs to new NGK's, new AFM, new (second hand) transmission and new radiator and other things that wouldn't be related. The fuel pump has also been replaced because the old one when i got the car was not working, the fuel pump is a fairly cheap universal one off eBay. Also the exhaust on my car is way too big for a non turbo car so the i was told the timing might be out of whack, plus this only starting happening when i accidentally backed up into my mums car and put a crack in the exhaust. So i myself am thinking either the fuel pump is not pumping through enough fuel, or it has to do with having not enough back pressure in the exhaust. Any help would be appreciated, thank you. Update: I was just downstairs moving the car and it wouldn't start the first time and i never usually have a problem starting my car especially after i have been driving it, also smells a little rich.

R32 gtst hot issues Hey, So ive got a 1992 gtst type m that i picked up recently. Its got 100,540km on it now and i just did the timing belt, put on a cheap diy intake and thats it. The car is in spotless condition. Now im having an issue with the car when it warms up. Originally it would just start hard after the car had been driven. Now the car will start fine cold with no misfires or anything, but as soon as it gets to operating temp it just stalls. If you crank it over the idle will be high, around 1800rpm and then it will start to idle hunt from about 800 to 1800rpm. If you give it any throttle input itll stop at 2500 rpm which im assuming its a limp mode? I replaced the ignitor and checked all fuses throughout, but im running out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated! Dan 20170820_153441.mp4

New R32 GTR owner Hey! What's up ya'll? My name is Antoine and I'm a proud new owner of a 1991 R32 GTR. Now unfortunatly I don't have any pictures for you all today but I would like to eventually post some. Maybe even start a build thread/fix thread?? dedicated to fixing the few things wrong with the car.. I currently live in Quebec/Canada and here in Quebec we are the only province that banned RHD vehicles. Yep that's right nor more rhd vehicles since 2009 in quebec. I'm lucky I managed to buy one road legal. I have a few things that need to be fixed on the car. 1. Horn doesn't work. 2. The back side windows are painted black. Makes it real ahrd seeing upcoming traffic. 3. Now it's not really an issue for me, but worth asking. When the engine is still warm and I start the car again, I need to give it some gas or else it won't start. 4. The sorta not big deal but annoying problem that I'd really like to eventually get fixed is this : Everytime I change gears it smells like burnt gas all over the cabin for a few secs then it goes away. It has HKS blowoff valves (external) and I think this might be the issue. I read somewhere that the car was factory tuned with recirculating valves?? Need your opinion on this. I'm thinking that the car shoots more fuel into the mix because it's expecting an air return but never gets one resulting in a crazy rich mixture. and to keep on the subject of burnt fuel smeel, I swear I'm not imagining this, but when I was cruising back home on the highway (motorway?? that how you guys say it?) I think I saw fume coming out of the heand break once and a while. Now the fuel smell doesn't really bother me, what bothers me is that I smell like arse when I'm done driving the car and need to wash my clothes and take a shower oh and that my GF complains about the smell lol. Cheers!

Hi guys I've seen a couple of threads on this subject but none that answered my specific question. I've had my 2009 370GT (7 speed auto) sedan for over 3 years and 20,000km now and ever since I bought her I've only ever used 91 petrol (the same as I did for my V35 300GT) because I never did any investigating. I have never had any problems running on 91 - she runs smoothly and perfectly, does 0-100 in 5.5 sec, no pinging, rough running etc, and I can consistently get over 600km on a tank with a motorway, city, cruisy and wheel spinning mix of driving. It was only researching about doing an oil change myself (and downloading a US Infiniti G37 manual) that I came upon the concerns about using the wrong fuel. Is it okay to keep on going as is or do I really run the risk of damaging the car? Cheers

Just wondering here guys...what problems would a rich rb25det face.....lost of power etc?im not sure...thanks in advance

Anyone have a lead on what wires on the R32 fuel pump plug are what. The R32 fuel pump plug is a 6 pole 5 wire plug whereas the R34...well that's just it, I don't know. Backstory, I gutted my R32 chassis and engine harnesses and ran an R34 chassis harness with the intention of running the fuel pump on the R34 connections, low and behold someone snipped the connectors to the fuel pump so now I'm stuck with my dick in my hand trying to sort out what's what. The chassis harness came out of a 4 door GTT, I'm anticipating the R34 dash, instrument cluster and other parts to arrive shortly so I can start doing the swap. My plan (assuming that I'm correct) is to just pop out wires and repin the blue R32 fuel pump plug. From what I am guessing, the R34 fuel pump has two plugs that go to it, a 2 pin and a 4 pin. I could be entirely wrong. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find any pictures close up of anyone's R34 fuel pump assembly with the wires. Even so there's still a few plugs missing on the harness that I need to sort out. Anyone with an R34 could be really helpful right now to decipher what's what.

Intermittent running problems Hi everyone, should probably start this off with a bit of background info. this is my back and fourth to work car, i do have a lead foot sometimes, but I don't need it for the power. my r33 non turbo automatic with the RB25DE has been running rough intermittently when it first started I thought it might have been a fuel issue, so changed the fuel filter, oil, oil filter and blew out the air filter i pulled the coil packs out and they were starting to show small problems Problem continued , had to wait a few days to fix that but finally got round to it, cleaned the carby and mass flow, the spark plugs i had thought should be still good since the last service not many k's before but a fair amount of time it drove smooth the next day, then started to drive rough 30mins in the day after. i pulled it apart again deciding to change the plugs, chucked carby cleaner drove the next day calmly, day later ran rough 35mins into drive decided the coolant temperature sensor needed to be replaced drove to and from work smoothly then jumped in to run down the road and it didn't just wait to be 10 or 15 mins into the drive, it ran rough all the way

Hey all, It's cold, and i'm tired, and i'm sick of working on my car atm. RB25DET NEO swapper R32 gts-t chassis. Power windows, and the dash (tacho and fuel sender) is not working. Cannot find any wiring diagrams at all for the power windows, i looked through the R32 GTR complete service manual and i cannot find anything for the life of me. Doing shitloads of googling and it seems a few other people on here and GTROC etc etc are having the same issuse. Power windows don't respond to any inputs and they are not getting any power to them. Does anyone have any idea how they get power? It must be pulled from the same spot as the dash gets power from yeah? I will have a look at some wiring diagrams and try and chase it later. I'm just over it at the moment haha Also why is there not an electrical/wiring subforum?

So I got around to reading Go Auto news today (yes, it's not the most reputable publishing, but it gets emailed directly to me at work). Turns out that a few days ago, Coles and Woolworths agreed to cease heavy discounts on fuel, as other companies were unable to compete as they did not have separate arms of business to draw the losses from. As a result, Coles and Woolworths have agreed to limit all discounts to 4 cents per litre. I am absolutely astounded that, after all this time spent 'investigating' pump price cycle, price gauging, collusion, and generally having no correlation to Singapore oil prices (even if hedged months in advance), the ACCC have only succeeded in removing predictable price cycles (i.e. we knew Tuesday was the cheapest day to fill up, now it's russian roulette) and to now reduce the discounts that consumers get. Further, these discount dockets only seemed to recover the amount that was artificially inflated by the scheme at the pumps - meaning the consumers have once again been left to bear the prices without protection. I don't mind paying the taxes on fuel (45% or so) but I'm getting pretty tired of the manipulation of pump prices, and the lack of positive action by the ACCC/Fuel Commission. Article link: http://www.goauto.com.au/mellor/mellor.nsf/story2/0280BC0B01715E58CA257C39002350B1

i have an 88’ r31 thats on duel fuel and recently when i change over to petrol the car wont get out of first gear and limits at 2000rpm on gas the car runs like a dream. i don’t think its an injector coz’ its not missing maybe it’s fuel starvation? fuel pump is kinda loud and changed the fuel filter not long ago its got me really stumped.

Hi there first time post. TL;DR Everything works good, specialist said that not enough fuel going into engine during spool/boost, is it common problem/suggested fix? I currently have just bought an R33 GTST 1994 Skyline. And it drives great, I took it to a few mechanics and all have said its very very clean. It's only done 94000kms. One mechanic said he suggested new spark plugs and a 2 rocket gasket covers. So I got those done, only about 400 for the lot with labour. But I keep feeling there is power loss, I tried to explain to the mechanic but he said it was just me. What I explained was that it felt like I could hear the turbo spool, but there was no power, for some reason it just felt like it was taking years for it go from 3000rpm to 6500rpm (7000 is my redline). Just felt slow. Mechanic said I was just thinking things. At first I thought it was boost leak, but he checked all hoses and piping, no leaks, the boost gauge also registers perfect as it should, all the way upto 11psi no jumping or anything. The car has no misfire or idle problems. But recently a "specialist" who has owned one said that I was indeed right, there was something wrong with it. He said that he thinks up until 3000rpm, til before the turbo spools it drives good, but after that he thinks there isnt enough fuel going through, he said he checked my fuel pump and it was working, there just wasn't any flow. He also mentioned and i have seen this before, usually when similar skylines put the foot down you see more black smoke come out the exhaust because of the higher fuel flow, but mine doesn't get anymore smoke come out. So he suggested I might need to check my fuel pressure at the front where my engine is, get a tune, and possibly might need a new ECU. The car has an aftermarket exhaust, just a hi-flow, not very big mufflers, I didn't put it in so I'm not quite sure 100% what brand or size it is. But it has an electronic valve controller as well, I don't know how to use it, it has a lot of possible settings, and was also curious if anyone knew anything about it? Could it control my fuel flow? here is some pictures of it, and all its settings - http://imgur.com/a/YsAwf is while the car is idling, and just pushing PWR to turn it on, and then mode to go through the set settings). And also my HICAS light is on, but god knows what that could be. Is there a way I can fix this without making it cost $3000+? Or is my mechanic wrong and should I look for/ask for something else? Maybe I should take it to a tune shop and get a second opinion.

Quick question. I've got an r33 gtst. Had a fuel leak on the hose before the fuel filter. Replaced that and the hose after the filter because why not? Now my fuel pump makes a ticking noise on prime up and the car turns over and won't start. I've got flow through the fuel filter. After some trial and error I pulled the fuel regulator off and primed it up and no fuel is getting through the reg. Is the fuel reg stuffed?