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Link G4+ topic Hi, Cant find any topic regarding ECU maps, need a help with my maps on LINKG4+ ecu

R34 25DET NEO dies map sensor reads high until lead is wiggled then will drive fine Is running a link g4+ and a 4bar map sensor, after awhile of driving the car will turn off, I have logged it and found that when it dies the map sensor gives a huge reading which I am guessing is incorrect and the car is flooding or shutting off to protect the engine. How do I go about finding the fault from what I can see the wires look fine

Hello, this is definitely my favorite forum. I always manage to resolve my issues when I come here! However, I’m dealing with a problem I’m not sure how to address. I’m hoping to receive pointers or guide on my quest to solve this issue. Issue: On cold start, my swapped 180sx with an rb25det will crank and idle normally, but as soon as it starts warming up. There’s a subtle backfire, little pops if you will. At operating temperature, the idle begins to fluctuate up and down between 800-1200RPM. Eventually, only when fluctuating RPM it will drip my 150A breaker at the battery and the g4+ ecu will lose power and shut off. Or the ECU will shut off without dripping the 150A breaker and everything else stays on: radio, fuel pump, gauges, etc. Questions: 1. What may cause the ECU to turn off? 2. How to I measure voltage to the ECU? 3. Is it possible there is a short causing the current surge to drip the breaker and make the ecu behave erratic? 4. Anything I should check? Parts installed before problem began: • GTR R35 Coilpacks • Bosh donut knock sensors • PRP trigger kit • 270A alternator • LINK G4+ lambda CAN wideband sensor I did drive the car with all parts installed with one issue. The ECU had a wideband sensor overheated code, which I resolved by addding a 200uF 12V capacitor. Other than that, I didn’t deal with issues until this. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi everyone, I’m relatively new to the RB-series world and definitely new when it comes to timing an engine using G4+ link. My car was running well, and then I decided to take everything apart and powder coat it. The engine bay is looking GREAT! However, I can’t get timing right, the idle is all over the place, and it’s backfiring consistently, which I think is causing the engine to overheat as well. Timing is set at 15 degrees on g4+, but I can’t seem to be able to match that on the crank using a timing light Things I messed with: 1. CAS 2. TPS 3. idle control valve Things I observed: Idle: 1,100 to 2,200 RPM, lost of misfire crank timing: 5 degrees How can I get the CAS (at 15 degrees), TPS, and idle control valve to be happy with each other? Any procedures? I’m here to learn! Thank you, Eric

For sale! Brand new link g4+ PnP ECU With airtemp sensor and XS loom. $2100 Brand new 1000cc Bosch injectors 14mm 3/4 length Come with plugs Set of 6 $600 Will do both for $2500 Located Brisbane

Hi all, For sale is a brand new never used Link G4+ Thunder ECU. This is Link's top dog ECU which can run pretty much any engine you choose to attach it to. Knock, DBW, VCT/VVT-i/VTEC, Lambda, antilag, traction control, boost control this ECU does it all with ease. https://www.linkecu.com/products/wirein-ecus/g4-thunder/ See above link for more specs. Looking for $2600 and that includes superseal connectors and contact kit and will post anywhere in AUS at my expense.