Search the Community

Wondering if anyone else has experienced intermittent operation of the boost gauge that's in the three gauge cluster of an M35? There doesn't seem to be any particular occurrence that makes it work and then not work. I guess a good start could be the sender unit as the cluster itself just has a plug? If I was to check the sender unit for the the boost signal, where do I start looking. Cheers Brendan

I fitted some Defi gauges a little while back with the intention of fitting an oil cooler but never got around to doing so and felt if my temps (with light track work) never got too bad I wouldn't worry with the cooler. But as the factory Nissan temp sensor is M12 x1.25 thread and the defi sensor is 1/8NPT I could never fit the temp sender and effectively had a useless gauge. I spent ages trying to find an adapter through just about every gauge, fitting, performance site and store within Australia and could only come up with suppliers from the UK with shipping worth more than I could justify. I could find adapters that were M12 x 1.50 and M12 x 1.00 but not 1.25 as it's a very odd size. Finally I found a local supplier on ebay that sells them - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Metric-Male-M12x1-25-To-Female-1-8-NPT-Also-Use-For-Pfira03-Fitting-/151195760051?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2333f835b3 All I did was fit an o-ring around the M12 thread that goes into the factory oil temp sensor location to seal it up (thread sealant would do the same but I didn't have any) and thread tape around the Defi sensor. I was a bit worried as the sensor tip did not stick out a great deal from the end of the adapter and not getting a true reading but the adaptor looks to thead in just as far as the factory sender and after taking my car for a run it seemed to work near spot on. The temps warmed up relatively similar and after a good freeway run with 30degree ambient temps in Adelaide the oil temp was within 5 deg C to the coolant temp which is what I expected to see.

Hi SAU, As per topic title, I've got an R34 Factory Triple Gauge Complete with Housing, new White LED's & Screws. I think $200 is a fair price for pick-up. An additional $20 for postage and postal insurance in Australia. I won't post this internationally. I'm located in Sunshine, Victoria and can be reached on 0432 518 129. Thanks, Michael

Hi all Recently installed some new gauges on my GTT and saw there was nothing (that I could find) on wiring them up correctly so decided to make a little post to help anyone out in future There's a pic of the stock wiring loom. The green/yellow is a 12v power line which you connect to so you don't blow any fuses in your lighter and the red wire with purple strip (third from the top) is your headlight switch. Strangely I couldn't find a strong ground so I just hooked up a wire to this bolt which is visible once the A/C unit is removed For the ignition wire I just spliced into my blue/white wire from my head unit but you can also do this with your ignition or lighter, I just found this the easiest to do Lastly I SOLDERED and HEAT SHRINKED all the wires together and made sure not to do the old twist and tape that so many of us are guilty of. Alternatively you can crimp but as temp is relatively low under the dash board I don't think it matters what you do Hope this helps and if anyone wants to know how to do the full install feel free to comment/pm me

I'm after a genuine old school Nismo boost gauge. They look like this: Prefer mechanical type. Am also keen on this model too: Will travel ANYWHERE in Melbourne! Please PM me or contact me on 0403544628 Regards Michael

NM35 Factory Boost Gauge - dodgy readings Hi all, When I bought my 250t RS Four the boost gauge was showing some dodgy readings then packed in. After thinking it might be the well known dry joint issue, I dived in to the engine bay and discovered the vacuum hose had split and fallen off the plenum. Easy fix with some new hose and a zip tie, and all was well again. Fast forward a couple of weeks and I developed a new problem, whereby the boost gauge would show 0 at idle, i.e. pulling no vacuum, building up to 1 under partial throttle. Then obviously it tops out so useless on boost. This evening I tried the 'Scotty Fix' and wielded my soldering iron over the boost gauge sensor. I removed the old solder and renewed the joints on all three known failure points. I redid two I wasn't happy with, and confident that my soldering was now good I popped it back on the car and... it's still showing 0 at idle. So either my engine pulls no vacuum, which I will test with my new mechanical gauge tomorrow (unlikely), or something is amiss electronically (likely). Has anyone come across a similar issue before? Could it be an issue with the gauge unit? Or should I try to find a replacement sensor? Are there any cheaper alternatives? These units are crazy expensive and difficult to get hold of. Thanks in advance, John

Regarding the mod here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/42895-howto-rb25det-high-boost-mode-with-standard-solenoid/ Before doing the mod I took my car for a drive to get a baseline on where the guage reads. I found that even at low rpm (=>2500) it's already boosting to the first mark on the boost gauge (which im assuming is 350mmhg or 7psi?) And after 4500rpm it doesn't get any higher. Do some stage as not have the dual boost solenoid mode from factory? I've got a s2 c34 rs4

I recently ordered a speedometer cable for my 1990 Laurel because the speedometer stopped working. I'm ready to put the new one in but I can't figure out how to remove the trim to get to the gauge cluster. Any advice would be appreciated!

Hi all, has anyone experienced fuel gauge issues below a quarter of a tank? Mine fluctuates wildly but seems to right itself after a bit of driving/sloshing but can drop as low as an 8th and turn the light on but then come back up to a quarter. Annoyingly the DTE under the 'boost leaf' must get its readings from the same sensor as that fluctuates too. Does this model still have a conventional float level sensor? Could it just be dirty contacts?

Not needed as I only wanted the surround for double din. No scratches or cracks on it. Not too sure if the boost and torque gauges work as my car is an AR-X, but the voltage and illumination works. $40 posted Australia wide. Contact Brendon on 0402 seven zero two 102

Hi All! Just a quick one - I am installing the OEM GTT triple gauge pod into my NA-T converted R34 however am having some trouble. I found a post on this website about how to do it, including the wiring diargam but I do not have the wiring loom for these gauges, especially the plug which goes into the back of them. If anyone has this plug/wiring loom I would be more than happy to purchase it off you so do let me know! Failing finding a plug, is there any other way to get these gauges to work? Any help would be hugely appreciated! Nihal

Been trying to work this out all weekend I'm all out of ideas Re wiring old triple gauge back into my r34 gtt Have everything working except the boost gauge which comes on with accessories and basically reads voltage I have it wired to the middle wire on boost sensor Any suggestions would be awesome ?

Hi, Trying to install a boost gauge in my 89 R32 GTR. I've searched the forums and Google extensively and there is a lot of great information about teeing into the stock boost gauge line as shown in the attached picture borrowed from a diy thread on this forum. Problem is that line has been removed on my car. There are some other diagrams but I'll be honest, I don't get it. As I am a simple person and visual learner, does anyone have or can anyone take a photo showing me where that line used to connect to the engine? That way I figure I can skip teeing into that line and just connect the tube directly to the engine. Thankyou in advance!!

Hi, I got a boost gauge and am having difficulty figuring out where to place the hose. I know that it goes after the turbo so I tried to place it on the nipple on the intake manifold which ended up making the gauge suck rather than blow into it. I then found a couple of hoses which i think was where the factory boost gauge was/is. I am not too sure because my instrument panel has been changed and it has no factory boost gauge on it. I put the hose on there and it does work but its not accurate (i think) it only shows 1-2 PSI when i rev it from standing still. I took a couple of photos, if someone could clue me in that would be superb thanks

So here's one I havn't seen before, Multiple gauge failure on the standard R33 GTST S1 dash cluster, No boost gauge (Has aftermarket fitted and plumbing is still attached to standard as well as aftermarket) No oil pressure gauge (again has aftermarket fitted but Havn't checked connection's to standard) No fuel reading (Has Hi flow fuel pump fitted) Any opinions on whether it could be? Possibly one single cause or just a case of 3 seperate causes? I have checked to make shure all plugs are plugged into the dash and all ok. Obviously considering I have the after market gauges working the fuel gauge is currently my biggest priority, but dont want to pull the fuel sender out if it could possibly be a much simpler issue. Also not car is not running the factory ECU, It's running purley on a Haltech waying up wether this too could be a cause of the problem. Otherwise no other auto electrical issues. Any help would be appreciated.

Hey Guys, So I am slowly trying to get my 33 ready for some motorsport this year, being a novice to this I dont want to rush in and buy a heap of instruments that wont serve much purpose or have any real benefit above what the standard GTST cluster gives. I think the no brainer one is my autometer boost gauge, I was then thinking of getting the matching Oil Pressure and Air Fuel ratio. The oil pressure because of the threads I am reading about RB series motors having issues with track work, then Air Fuel ratio just to make sure I am not leaning out. Would you agree ? , or do you think I dont need these, do need these, need more gauges ? I dont want to end up with a dash full of stuff I cant read whilst driving or end up with gauges showing me things that the stock cluster does fine, or even things I dont really need to know. But in saying that, would hate to blow up a perfectly good RB25DET for the sake of not knowing I was running to lean etc. What are your thoughts ?

Hey guys. Long time follower, first time forum-join-iner. I just have a quick question to ask someone that's either done it, or knows if it can be done. I have an R34 GT-T Sedan. I want to replace the stock gauges in the cluster on the top of the dash with some after-market ones. I want to know if they can just be placed right in the same mounts and just re-wired or if it's more complicated then that? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've put gauges in cars before but I thought I'd ask before I go ripping stock shit apart lol. Basically the reason for doing so is the volt meter doesn't work and the boost one is a little dodgy. Plus for style as well. Looking at some white face ones like GReddy or something. Thank you very much

TOMEI old school boost gauge! Anyone know to how wire it up? Hi all I have this old school Tomei boost gauge with recall function but i have no idea how to wire it up, would anyone happens to know how or know where i can get hold of the instruction manual? Cheers

Hi guys, I don't drive my R33 GTR often but this morning started noticing that my car's RPM gauge (stock factory) is acting funny in the sense that it would sometimes get stuck at 5,000 RPM and then not rev over that and then come back down again and then sometimes it spins up and down a few times and resets to 0 again. I don't think it's a mechanical or engine issue and my car drives normally but perhaps it something to do with the gauge or the wiring itself? Has anyone experienced this and how did you fix it? Thought I'd check here first before taking it to a motor mechanic. Cheers, Alex

Hi, If some one have/had gauge like this can tell me how to connect it properly? I have 2 connectors, 1 is for gauge and I connect all wires, 1 is for sensor and from sensor connector i have 3 free wire: gray, green, and brown. The problem is my Warning don't work, I set it from behind at 2.0 bar but when i test and pump over 2 bar the red LED doesn't blink And when i connect brown wire to black wire from gauge it blink all time. So my question is how to connect it properly ?

Hi all, I'm going to be upgrading my auto r34 set up and I'm going to install some new gauges. What do people think about prosport gauges ? Also to install the boost gauge can I use any of the factory wires/ connections ? Lastly does an engine oil temp gauge work for trans temp ?? I can't find any trans temp ones so I was thinking about using an oil gauge and sensor for it ? Cheers guys

Autometer Procomp Ultralite Boost / Vacuum Gauge - PN 4403 - 2 5/8" (60mm) http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3154&sid=11 Comes with everything you need; light, wiring, vacuum hose. Perfect condition. Reason for sale: bought a EBC with inbuilt boost reading. Location: Doncaster East, Victoria Price: $70

Greddy Profec B W/ garret boost gauge Hi guys, Selling my greddy profec b 1 boost controller with garret boost gauge. Worked flawlessly for me and previous owner for many years. Only reason for sale I upgraded to eboost2. Was stuck with double sided tape by previous owner, could probably get it all off with a scrapper and some persistence. 170 for both ono. Located greystanes 2145

Clearing out my garage after moving and seeing how much stuff I have. Stock R34 GTT radiator - $100 **Only replaced due to upgrading to a Fenix 52mm, no leaks Stock R34 GTT Thermostat - $15 **Only replaced due to upgrading to a Nismo item Stock R34 GTT rear camber arms (pair) - $50 Stock R34 GTT rear traction arms (pair) - $40 Stock R34 GTT front upper control arms (pair) - $80 Stock R34 GTT front swaybar - $50 Stock R34 GTT rear swaybar - $50 **Only replaced due to upgrade for adjustable parts Stock R34 GTT front brake rotors (pair) - $50 DBA4000 T3 series slotted front rotors (pair) - $200 Stock R34 GTT front calipers (pair) w/ Intima SR pads- $300 Intima SR rear R34 GTT brake pads - $20 HEL R34 GTT front braided brake lines - $60 **Only replaced due to upgrade, heaps of pad left on the front and rears Ferodo GP2 rear R34 GTT pads (brand new) - $20 **To confirm fitment - Part No. DB1144GP. I was given these when I purchased the car but never used them Unknown brand front Evo 5-9 Brembo pads - $20 **Replaced after fitting up the Brembos to my car, reasonable amount of pad left Stock R34 GTT center gauge cluster - $100 **Removed for fitment of Defi gauges Stock R34 GTT transmission mount - $100 **Only removed due to being replaced with Nismo item Stock S15 rear camber arms (pair) - $50 **Removed from my old S15 and replaced with adjustables S15 rear parcel shelf speaker grills - $10 BMC pod filer - $10 **Could use a clean and also has a screw hole in the end from a bracket, was given to me when purchasing another filter setup If you want a better picture of any of the items, or of any of the items not pictured, let me know, I've been meaning to post this for a couple of weeks and have just been lazy with taking photos so just wanted to get something up. Will happily get pics if anyone is interested though. All parts are located in Bathurst NSW, willing to post at buyers expense or alternatively meet as far as Lithgow (for multiple items) or Sydney/Canberra at a convenient time as I travel these ways often.

***Duplicate please delete