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Found 18 results

  1. For Sale: - No trades. $5750. Firm. No offers. 0403 279 975 1997 Series 2 R33 GTS25t 157,xxx km White Manual Turbo The Good: Tomei Poncams Cooling Pro Stealth return flow FMIC Exedy HD cushion button clutch Exedy racing flywheel Drift oil catch can R33 GTR 17”x9” rims (F: 245/40R17 R: 255/40R17) Cusco Front strut brace, R33 GTR rear strut brace Nismo slave cyl. w/ HEL braided clutch line 3” – 3.75” stainless exhaust from turbo back Pioneer CD/MP3/WMA/AAC stereo w/ ipod/USB/iphone connectivity & handsfree Bluetooth HICAS Lock bar HEL braided brake lines w/ Project Mu calliper rebuild kit Red stitched leather gear and boots + centre console Original Skyline mats Z32 AFM fitted 13AUG. adjustable camber Front and Rear The bad: Cracked RFront indicator Needs aftermarket ECU for proper tune a few squeaks here and there Selling due to Minister for Finance and Recreation decree (Missus says it's gotta go before baby arrives). Have receipts for parts fitted and work done, runs well and has been extremely reliable in the 9.5yrs I've owned it. Engine always had Royal Purple motor oil, gearbox + diff - redline shockproof - all changed less than 1000km ago Better pics coming after it's detailed (if it's not sold in the meantime).
  2. Selling complete motor with turbo and ancilliaries, has been sitting for over a year but starts and runs. Can post video of starting engine if requested. A bit rich, sensors and shit are probably filthy. 140,000kms. It's very clean aside from a few cobwebs. Recommend an immediate major service at the very least. Uses no oil, blows no smoke. $900 ono or $800 if you come get it from the car yourself! 5 speed gearbox very nice and notchy, no issues with synchros, clutch is superb and will come with gearbox unless someone wants it real bad with the engine. $800 I have the whole car (stock White Manual R33 GTS25T), feel free to ask about other parts. Located in NEWCASTLE. should probably add that I'll ship stuff like the engine and gearbox but I've never shipped stuff that big, you'll need to help me out. 0448 123 401
  3. I'm chasing a full set of R33 gtst brakes - calipers, rotors, pads and brake lines - for a conversion into an HR31. PM me or phone/text on 0415344834. Cheers Stephen
  4. Hey guys, So I have a RB25det R33 and i was wanting to deloom and tidy up the engine bay a bit. What is the easiest way to deloom and make it look a bit cleaner when i pop the hood? Just looking at the engine bay is making me more confused on where to begin, everything is so tightly packed together. Any help will be appreciated! Thanks!
  5. 1996 R33 GTS-25T Skyline, amazing car to drive, incredibly lively and fun yet easily driven sedately. 18 inch Racing Hart alloy wheels, front tyres good, rear tyres new. Mods include hi flowed turbo, bigger injectors, superspark coil packs, front mount intercooler, apexi power fc with hand controller, pedders coil overs all round, front and rear stut brace, turbo back 3 inch exhaust, mishimoto alloy radiator, pod filter in enclosed cover, z32 afm. This is an amazing car to drive, it pulls like a freight train, handles like its on rails, purrs like a kitten at idle and scream like a jet on full boost. Asking price is $15000 no I will not take $9000 cash and I'm not interested in what your cousins uncle can get one for this is a beloved gem of a car, no test flights or tyre kickers please if you are serious feel free to message to arrange to view and inspect the car.
  6. Coolant leak at back of engine RB25DET Hi! Today I discovered a little puddle of coolant under the car when I looked underneth it. I currently have the car jacked up for the winter. Never noticed this leak until now, guess the coolant never made it down to the floor when I used to drive it and it managed to dry up before. Now the car has been standing for about 2 months so now it is visible. The coolant level is fine though so not a huge leak. I tried to follow the leak from the side of the gearbox and upwards. I belive it has dripped down from the coolant feed from the turbo by the looks of it behind the engine. Here are some pics I took, what do you guys belive? Will it be as "easy" as just replacing the nasty looking hose clamp? ? The car is a 94 r33 gtst btw.
  7. Space saver spec/compatible aftermarket Hey all, been looking for a compatible spacesaver to fit in my boot well, just wondering what the specs of the genuines are so I can look for a compatible replacent. I've heard a ford festiva wheel might fit but i cant vouch for the bloke who told me that. If any normal wheels work as a spare and fit snug in the boot well I'll be happy but if not then what kind of space saver am I after? Just so I can avoid the blank stares and seem knowledgeable when Im parts hunting.. Muchly appreciated in advance!!
  8. New guy in town Evening people, Just bought a jap spec r33 manual. 1st skyline so im new to any mods or stuff but have a few to ask so I'll have a look around then start a new thread. Cheers
  9. Sounds like rod knock ?? Hey guys. My r33 gts25t is playing up. Was converted from auto to manual and runs the factory TK auto ecu. It was running out of power at higher revs (approximately 4500-5000rpm) as the VCT wasn't working since the VCT needs the auto in drive so it will switch on. So i connected the TJ manual ecu and VCT starts working. The next day the car started misfiring at start up so i change it back to the old auto ecu. Still misfiring. Now it feels like its running on 5 cylinders most of the time and sometimes 6 cylinders. While on 5 cylinders it has a knock coming from the firewall end but on 6 cylinders nothing. I replaced injectors, spark plugs, coil packs, fuel pump. Any advice please thanks
  10. Hello! I just recently had my Timing belt done and all the accesories, tensioners/pulleys etc. The shop who did the job is very reputable and have done many jobs like this before. So when I got my car back I didn't notice anything, the car sounded fine. Drove it home, (3 hour journey) and just as im arriving when I do a pull from 1st gear in the parking space I hear a whinning noise from the engine? Was pretty tired so decided to look it up the next day. I read through some forum posts with people who experienced similar problems. That their belt would make squeaky noises, when warmed up mostly and around idle. In my case this is what i've discovered so far: Noise is there both when the engine is cold and warmed up and only seems to be apparent from 1000--1500rpm. Anyone have any ideas what this noise can be?!? More frustrating than anything! The timing belt kit installed is a Blueprint oem replacement. Video how it sounds: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OEsFwTc3Rp0
  11. hey all. been trynna tidy up some sketchy mods so kindly left hidden by the previous owner like Easter eggs inside my baby. since ive had the car ive had no working horn. the steering wheel is after market and the boss kit seems to have no brand name on it at all. as far as i can tell the hicas is hooked up well enough (when i take out the hicas fuse the car's steering goes floaty, so it must be working, right?) but no wires had been fed through the boss kit to to horn button. i must note that the boss kit has quite a solid body so i cant see through it like some of the framed ones. it just seems to to sit over a thin black plastic plate(?) and connects into the box which holds the indicator and wiper stalks. my two main issues are this... i can not find the horn wire and am struggling to find a straight-forward answer to which colored wire is the horns and where it either comes from or goes to. being a previously molested car, the wiring behind the wheel and in the footwell have seen better days and in some spots it seems wires have been cut and soldered back onto themselves.. ive been tinkiering with the green and red striped wire that has had one end soldered back to either itself or a ground wire, and am starting to think its been hardwired off out of convenience when the boss kit was installed. but if its not the horn wire then im wasting my time. ive tried to look at pics of the column after the wheels been removed to try and find clues of what plugs and wires need my attention, but it all looks different because mine is all covered up by the boss kit which leads me to my second problem, i cant remove the boss for the life of me. and because i cant get a good look between the kit and the column, i cant tell which parts im supposed to pull and which parts im not. i dont wanna keep trying to tug if the boss kit is hardwired on(if that's a thing) and im also kinda scared that all my pulling and prying might damage that yellow round thing that's exposed when the wheel's off (seen it in pics and have been told its important and not to funk with it)... but since i cant remove or look past my boss kit, im not sure what side of the stalks it's on.. from my perspective it looks like the thin plastic plate between the stalks and the boss kit are apart of the boss kit that needs removing but im pretty sure the boss kit should be solid metal, and all that is plastic stays on the car. the thin plastic plate looks like it wiggles and doest quite sit flush in either direction. if anyone has any advice on how to identify the horn wire after some mild molestation, or any info on different boss kits that might shine light on mine (hardwired or cheapo brands with strange plastic bits?) or if someone has any pics of what the column and wires would look like stock so i can work backwards from the molestation. or even if someone has a side on pic of an installed boss kit so i can see what it consists of when attached and what parts should and shouldnt move when trying to remove the boss kit. a wiring diagram would also be helpful. sorry about the big write up over something small but i feel like it should be easier than this, and its only being made harder by a stubborn boss kit that cant be moved or looked past. it just looks so very different from other boss kits, it doesn't even appear to have anywhere to feed the wires through unless you cut the clips and feed through the small gap between the boss and thin plastic plate, which is a good solution but dosnt seem like the original intention. thanks in advance for any help that may come my way. my car is a 93 r33 gts25t s1. i have poor internet connection and no working camera on my phone so i may be slow to reply but please bare with me, and i'll find a way to take photos and upload them as needed.
  12. hey all just got my first skyline. as the title says its a 94 R33 GTS25T . i swapped it for a un finished AE86 project, it came regoed and slightly modified, and not very well looked after. so far the mods i know of are: Front Mouint High flowed stock turbo (hypergear?) internal gate welded shut and actuator disconnected 50mm external wastegate and screamer turbosmart e-boost street boost controller turbosmart boost gauge AFR gauge of some sort unknown brand fuel pressure regulator cut and shut forward facing stock intake manifold 3" exhaust maxpeeding coilovers exedy HD clutch 18x9.5 Work Emotion Kiwami's (metallic charcoal) she definitley needs some tlc and a heap of bugs need to be looked at but it seems pretty strong and goes well. looking forward to keeping this thread updated as i progress.
  13. Hey guys I have a 95 GTS25T which is about to go in for a Cambelt replacement. I bought a kit online without checking the parts first (I know silly) but it came with a Mitsuboshi timing belt, GMB tensioner and idler, and a Seiken water pump. I know these parts are probably the cheapest available to fit but will they be ok? Its running standard boost, no intercooler or anything mods are just exhaust, adjusties and pod filter and a few other small things. I also dont plan on drifting every single corner >:) just a few when its wet. Please any help as to how long these parts would compare to a standard Nissan belt? Thanks
  14. Hello. I have a strange noise that's coming from my R33. It can be heard well when the car is idling. you don't hear it when reving or when your inside the car, only when you stand outside by the engine compartment. It sounds to me like a metallic grinding noise, coming from the podfilter. This didn't occur recently though I've driven the car for 8 months since this started. It haven't gotten worse or better, what could it be? I will post video of the sound so you guys can hear it. 2nd video is me recording just next to the podfilter. IMG_8199.MOV IMG_8820.MOV
  15. Hi all! As topic reads I am an owner of a 95' Skyline R33 Gtst. Bought it 'bout a year ago, was and still is fairly stock. mods so far is: * 3' turboback exaust * Greddy profec b boost controller * apexi filter Also changed the coilpacks and plugs not too long ago. So anyway to my problem. Always since i bought the car it has had the famous flutter sound (off throttle) which bothered me some, and the old owner had the Ebc set at 1bar (14.5 psi) in high mode which I know is to much for the stock turbo to handle. Experienced what I Belive was R&R at a point when the Ebc was set to only 0.75bar. (11 psi) Been driving with the Ebc controller off for some time now, no more retarded timing. So with the controller switched off I get 0.64-0.67 bar. (9.5 psi) I decided to inspect the BOV to see if I could find the cause of the flutter, suspected it would be blocked, I was right. There was a metal plate in the shape of the gasket in between with some red goo around. Removed it and replaced with a new gasket and went for a drive, now the BOV opens and air gets released, though I could hear a high pitch whistle sound around 2500 rpm with 1/3 throttle applied. Boost still went to 0.64 bar. Now more recently though the car feels really slow when I go full throttle it's holding back, like I was towing somebody kind of that feel. It dosen't missfire or anything just dosen't have that punchy acceleration anymore, but when cruising on the motorway and I give it some gas in higher gears it pulls fairly good but boost only goes strong up to 0.44-0.46 bar. I can push it so it reaches 0.52 but thats not until 6000+rpm! Can it be a boost leak? or clutch maybye? Any advice would be much appreciated! Cheers!
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