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Found 202 results

  1. I’ve had these wheels for a while, and I think it’s time to give them a freshen up. I want to fully disassemble each wheel to clean and possibly paint. They are 3-piece wheels so the whole thing is held together by about 40 nuts and bolts all the way around the wheel. The thing is that it is impossible to get a Allen key to fit into the bolt because of its location (see pics). There are nuts on the other side of the wheel and I can get a spanner on them and break them loose. But as soon as the broken loose it just starts to spin, you have to have a Allen key on the other side to stop the bolt from just spinning. obviously, there’s some way to get them apart but I feel like I’m just missing something.
  2. Hi, I've got a problem that's getting on my nerves. Fuse at the bortom left side (10a) keeps on popping when i turn the key to on. I got problems with my climate control and fan blower and i have tried everything. Googled like a maniac and still can't find anything that sort my problem. Can this be related? I got three climate controls, so that isn't the problem 😂 I also tried removing all connectors to the fan blower motor, I've changed the temperature relay to. Please help, I'm getting desperate.
  3. I am picking apart my r33 gtst and i just found this loose cable, anyone know what it is?
  4. Hi I need help finding the name of this connector, i need one as you can see 😂 Its located near the washerfluid reservoar.
  5. So I'm looking at switching up my Intake setup due to an aftermarket turbo manifold. Here are my specs before you tell me to spend my money elsewhere or to buy a 25 Yada Yada: Hybrid Performance Turbo Manifold GCG high flowed RB25 turbo GTR Injectors (444cc I believe) Z32 AFM Nistune So, the problem I face is with the standard J Pipe, the exhaust manifold is about an inch from the J Pipe elbow (refer to picture) and this causes concern for Intake Temps. So instead of heat wrapping and shielding and all that, a buddy has a full RB26 intake setup that he said he'd give me if I want it. My main question is if I buy this OtakuGarage adapter plate, what issues will I face? My thinking is that it'll make the intercooler piping shorter, and not run over the exhaust which could heat up my Intake Temps. I'm looking for answers and solutions, not hate on RB20s. Thanks in advance!
  6. Greetings all, first post on here and am new member, but I have. 94 BNR32 here in japan and i recently replaced my tachometer due to it being Inop. After putting everything back together the tach works now, but it rained the other day and rear windscreen started to fog up, hit my de fogger button as it worked a few weeks before taking dash apart and now it doesn’t turn on.. the little orange light doesn’t come on and no power goes to grid..I’ve inspected all the grids on the glass and no broken grids.. 20 Amp fuse in the cabin fuse box it good(replaced it anyways), disconnected battery, and reconnected, took dash apart again and ensured the connector that goes to defog switch was plugged in correctly, no frayed or broken wires. My guess now is there is another relay somewhere hiding under the dash that must have gone bad somehow? Scoured all over the web to find a cabin wire diagram but can’t find anything. Idk if there is another fuse in the circuit I’m missing or relay that is bad but I am getting frustrated as my rear fogger is quite important in the humid climate here.. please help. And thanks in advance Godzillas!!! p.s. Photo is just showing button in on position but no light on. -RBDev
  7. just wondering if anyone knows what these blue AN type fittings are in my engine bay. they are next to the oil filter
  8. So my dome light is not turning on when i open my driver side door, but it does turn on when i open my passenger side door
  9. so i got a AEM boost and oil temp gauge, can i use the old stock gauge wiring to wire in my new gauges
  10. Warm idle issue - Help Hey all, Need a bit of help. Been having this issue for a while, It starts having idle issues when the car is warm, usually after about 15-20 minutes, I have got videos of what it sounds like when cold idle and when the issue starts to happen. As well as NDSI logs of as the car heats up and the when the issue happens. It was at protek automotive for about a month and they didnt find anything. I replaced the coil packs with new ones it kept happening, then i replaced the spark plugs with new BCPR6E-1, then also resoldered the AFM solder joints. Any insight would be more than welcome. What the exhaust sounds like cold. Issue as it starts to happen and get warm. Issue as it gets worse. What it sounds like from the drive side fender. I really hope someone can find what the issue is, I'm getting pretty sick of this not working. Thank you all so very much. NDSI20170420_162105.log
  11. Hey so after a bit of digging around ive come to the conclusion that the problem im having is with the shifter solenoid it has all the same problems locks me in 3rd until i turn the car off then on again ive looked around locally im from new zealand no one seems to have a listing for a new one or a second hand one that i can find ive however found one of ebay but its for a gtt model skyline would this still work in the non turbo model? Thanks for any help
  12. v36 Japanese to English conversion Hi guys is it possible to convert the language in the first gen v36 (2007) I have phoned many companies and was unlucky . The car would just be perfect if I can sort this out . any help would me much appreciated ! Thank you
  13. Had recently changed transfer fluid and bled attesa using Nissan matic D, also changed a cv boot on the front right shaft. Everything done to the manual. About 30 miles after this I Was driving down the motorway about 70mph Suddenly a bang/rattle from under the car, could feel vibration from the tunnel in the footwell. The torque gauge shot Up well past 50 and stayed there. Pulled in checked under the car nothing hanging out and no leaks. I’ve a switch wired for RWD flicked it and decided to drive home and have a look, the steering felt heavier and there was a very slight rattle from under the car. Jacked car up, shafts all seem ok. there was a thin green and yellow wire wrapped around the driveshaft. Also some Non OEM wires seem to have been ripped out of the power steering rack. Also spade connectors on them which were also pulled out. Have absolutely no idea what these are for. No 4wd warning lights and the torque gauge will quickly rise fall a bit then shoot Up past max when ignition is on. (See video) Any ideas ??? Guessing transfer box is f**ked ? EE3B34D6-C193-4923-BB8B-DD1F84C92275.MOV
  14. so i have read that if the boost restrictor is taken out it should boost up to 1 bar but mine seems to sit between 0 and 7 mmHg, car is all factory minus exhaust
  15. As my title states I have a question about upgrading the valves on my RB25DET NEO engine. I had a timing belt mishap that decided to bend all 24 of my valves so I am needing to replace them. I brought the head to a machine shop who ordered Ferrea NEO valves (par numbers F1935P & F1933P) and upon arrival they were different than the OEM valves that were in the engine. Keep in mind I have not seen either of these valves in person yet. Supposedly the OEM valves are 6mm at the stem and then about 1cm from the top taper down into a 5mm stem. But the Ferrea valves don't taper down - they just stay 6mm the whole length of the stem - thus is requiring me to replace all my keepers, springs, etc (everything to do with the valves) resulting in a MUCH higher cost than anticipated and much higher cost than I can afford. Essentially what I am wondering is if someone has replaced their valves with Ferrea ones and kept all the other OEM components such as keepers, springs, etc. and had it work just fine. I am starting to wonder if this shop is just trying to get more money out of me.
  16. how do i check if my VVT is working its a rb25de neo and i accidentally swapped vacuum hoses around and now the car feels different
  17. So i did a spark plug change so i had to take my top intake off, so i accidentally swapped 2 vacuum hoses around and i noticed because the car had no power, now i changed them back and now the car feels like it has no top end power anymore. I mixed up hose 10 and hose 3 in the picture
  18. So i just changed my sparkplugs on my r34 everything was fine I drove it for like 10 minutes and then the engine light came on and then it started misfiring really bad, now on idle, it sounds like its running on fewer cylinders. I got engine fault code 21
  19. Hey just wondering if anyone can help me out with some Info ! So I want to replace my 99 Gloria gearbox from the cvt gearbox to a normal Auto gearbox what gearbox will fit and would I need to change the ecu and other stuff ? 😕 any help appreciated thanx
  20. Hey guys trying to get some advice for where to go with problem solving on my stagea, its one of the dreaded 08/97 built cars that have an ecu they ran for only one month apparently. pretty much the problem is the car is idle hunting badly running rich and rarely but sometimes stalling at idle and then under power it will stutter and cut out untill i clutch out taking load off. The previous owner had it manual swapped from an auto and the issues started from there as i found from the mechanic who serviced it. if someone could help with a pin out sheet or advice on which ecu to go with or if theres. Something i should replace i would much appreciate it.
  21. After doing a 5 stud conversion + brake upgrade (r33 gtst brakes) onto my r33 gts I cant get my brake pedal to feel firm. The car used to have ABS but everything has been removed including the sensors on the calipers. I have compared my brake setup to another non abs r33 and its exactly the same so theres no reason it shouldn't work. Ive already had a mechanic look at it, tried to bleed it, but still no improvement on the brakes. Besides that I have also tried to bleed the brakes and master cylinder using the brake pedal and a hand pump vacuum bleeder. With the car not running, the first 20% of the brake pedal has play, and the last 80% of the brake pedal feeling solid as. With the car running, is literally the opposite, 80% of the brake pedal is useless and the last 20% is when the brakes stop the car although i haven't tested it at speed higher than 30km/h. Theres no leaks, every connection is tight, fresh brake fluid etc. The brake booster is also from a turbo r33 to match the turbo gtst brakes. Could the master cylinder be broken? is there a way to test if it is? the brake booster and master cylinder both worked before installing them. I read on a forum from someone who did the same brake upgrade, same car, and had to upgrade to brake booster and master cylinder cause the brake pedal always felt soft/spongy. But there was no information on the upgrades he made? Any help would be appreciated!
  22. New to Skylines, Need Assistance Hello, I have an R33 purchased a few days ago and I have some questions. Where is the best place to check my VIN number (im currently overseas) everyplace I look up says its not enough numbers or doesnt exist Which coilovers do you recommend? RB250DET Thanks
  23. After a lot of headache asking for help, I have a r33 rb25det motor ( block number confirms) I got a rebuilt gearbox with changeover. Old gearbox had noisey bearings and crunchy 3/4 shifts, with a brief visual they looked the same. I upgraded from a exceedy sport tuff h/d clutch also has fitted a exceedy lightend flywheel to a NPC 300rwkw capable clutch for future mods, after fitting the new gearbox after elongating some bellhousing Bolts, slightly off compare to old mostly the bottom ones going through the backing plate.... there was excessive clearance between the clutch thrust bearing and touching the pressure plate. clutch slave cylinder push rod wouldn’t fit, after using NPC guidance there was 24mm clearance between, which they’ve never heard of, after fitting a longer thrust retainer to remove the clearance down to 6mm the clutch wouldn’t fully disengage, in gear foot on clutch turning the tailshaft clutch could be heard dragging and had abit of resistence to turn, whilst driving it was crunchy there was 10mm height difference on pressure plate clutch fingers when bolted to flywheel between clutches after drivability problems I decided to play around with spacing the clutch fork pivot and decreasing clearance down to 4mm but the NPC clutch still was dragging, so I decided to fit the old exceedy clutch that was working (now has been sitting for awhile) I fitted all the original parts from the old gearbox thrust retainer, removed clutch pivot ball spacing, now this clutch wouldn’t disengage at all, so I’m at a loss help.... summary rebuilt gearbox with new oem front plate where thrust retainer slides on new clutch slave cylinder, bolt pattern one on top one on bottom NPC 300rwkw clutch exceedy lightend flywheel 2mm difference overall height difference to factory flywheel apparent auto to manual converted new clutch pedal box everthing bolts up the same except for lower bellhousing bolts and starter motor needed to be elongated
  24. Hello everyone! After stupidly having my Gt-r sitting in the garage doing nothing for about 2-3 years I’ve tried to give it a run. I changed the oil and oil filter and tried turning it over with no success (surprise surprise). My battery is fine and it’s got fresh fuel. As I turn it over I don’t get any oil pressure on the gauge, is that expected? Will I only get pressure once it starts? Bit of a noob tbh. I’ve read that the gtr oil pressure sensors are dodge city, could that be stopping it from starting? Im going to check for spark but I’m worried it’s full of sludge. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good mechanic in Sydney’s south? Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
  25. Hello everyone! After stupidly having my Gt-r sitting in the garage doing nothing for about 2-3 years I’ve tried to give it a run. I changed the oil and oil filter and tried turning it over with no success (surprise surprise). My battery is fine and it’s got fresh fuel. As I turn it over I don’t get any oil pressure on the gauge, is that expected? Will I only get pressure once it starts? Bit of a noob tbh. I’ve read that the gtr oil pressure sensors are dodge city, could that be stopping it from starting? Im going to check for spark but I’m worried it’s full of sludge. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good mechanic in Sydney’s south? Thanks!
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