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  1. DIY: Hicas ball joint removal & replacement / Gktech lock bar install. Job: Replace worn out hicas ball joints, without removing hubs. Fit hicas lock bar. Parts needed: Gktech lock bar 2x Hicas ball joints Tools needed: Jack, Jack stands, WD40, Grease, Impact wrench, Adjustable wrench, Socket set 10-30mm, Circlip pliers, Pliers, Ball joint press kit, 42mm O.D. x 37mm I.D. x 60mm Steel pipe, Pitman arm tool, Angle grinder, Breaker bar, Safety glasses, Hearing protection, Mask. Duration: 3-6hrs. Difficulty: Medium - Easy with the right tools. Step 1: Remove rear seat, remove battery earth and remove suspension. Then carefully jack up the car and use jack stands. Step 2. Spray wd-40 on the bolts, remove split pin and 17mm nut from ball joint/tie rod end. Step 3. Use pitman arm tool or suitable tool to remove tie rod end. Step 4. Crack the tie rods from the hicas unit under the rubber boot, unplug the hicas wiring. Step 5. Remove the 19mm bolts holding the hicas unit to the car and then remove the tie rods. Step 6. Install the tie rods into the gktech lock bar leaving the rubber boots loose. Set that aside for now. BALL JOINT REMOVAL. Step 7. Remove circlip from back of ball joint. Step 8.Cut the ball joint stud to allow more space to remove. Step 9.If you haven't removed suspension do it now.Use the ball joint press tool to press the joint out.Most kits don't come with a small enough size pipe to allow for extraction of the joint, so you will have to find a steel pipe of 42mm O.D. x 37mm I.D. x 60mm. Very common pipe size fits perfectly. Carefully align your press tool with the pipe on the hub. I used 5mm steel plate as a backing plate and then used the correct size socket to sit flush on the back of the ball joint. This will allow you to push the ball joint through the hub towards the rear. Step 10. With the ball joint removed, clean the ball joint housing with wd40 and a rag. Step 11.Apply grease to the joint and housing. Step 12.Use a 30mm socket or similar sized pipe that fits over the rubber boot and sits on the metal rim of the joint to press the new joint in. Align the press tool with the socket and ball joints rim and start to turn the press tool to insert the joint into the hub. Joint installed. Step 13.Reinstall the circlip to the back of the ball joint. Step 14.Cable tie the hicas wiring out of the way. Install the gktech lock bar. Tighten the 19mm bolts. Check the tie rods are tight, then secure the rubber boots. Step 15.Install the tie rod ends and replace the 17mm nut and split pin. Step 16.Reinstall suspension, rear seat and wheels.Remove hicas bulb on the cluster, or cut hicas warning light wire on hicas cu in boot.Get wheel alignment.All Done.
  2. I'm in the process of doing a full suspension refresh and would like to keep HICAS working as best/tightly as it can. I have no intention of deleting or locking it. I have the ball joints already in hand and I'm looking at the tie rod ends L/R, inner rods L/R, and 2x boot kits. Are there any other parts subject to wear that I need to refresh at the rear to do this right? Would replacing the tie rod ends or inner rods even be necessary? I figure the ball joints are a no-brainer. Thanks!
  3. Really cheap 5 Stud complete front Hub assembly incl bearings (off R33 GTST). ($15) + some other bits. $15 each for the front hub assembly Bearings were good when they came of car 1 year ago. Pickup Campeltown NSW. Pm with your number for pickup info Also have for sale hicas 4ws rack $30 Rear seat $10 Ac condenser $20 Headrest $10
  4. GTR Steering Heavy With Consult Connected I have been having some problems with the power steering in my R32 GTR when a Consult device is connected since I imported it a year ago and I am finally trying to get it sorted out. I have searched the forum and found a few related topics, but so far nothing has been able to fix the issue so I figured I would start my own thread with the hope that someone can help. Unhooking the HICAS ECU and/or cutting the green wire on the smaller plug were both recommended fixes from other threads that did not help in my case. The issue is whenever I connect a device to the consult port the steering gets really heavy. I have tried various things with the HICAS ECU (since that was the typical culprit according to other threads) with no luck. Removing the HICAS ECU completely actually makes things worse, despite the fact that I have already removed the rest of the HICAS components (installed an eliminator kit a few months back). I did a number of drive tests last night to try to narrow down the exact circumstances and have it listed out below. Any ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. With NO Consult Device: HICAS ECU Stock - Steering Normal HICAS ECU Small Plug Removed - Steering Normal HICAS ECU Both Plugs Removed - Steering Immediately Heavy HICAS ECU Green Wire Cut - Steering Normal With Consult Device Connected: HICAS ECU Stock - Steering Heavy After 5-10 Minutes of Driving HICAS ECU Small Plug Removed - Steering Heavy After 5-10 Minutes of Driving HICAS ECU Both Plugs Removed - Steering Immediately Heavy HICAS ECU Green Wire Cut - Steering Heavy After 5-10 Minutes of Driving Edit: Additional information that might be helpful. The steering wheel appears to be stock, but when I have the consult device connected and check Data Scan it shows the HICAS sensor is way out of place. Although if that was the issue I would think I would always have a problem, instead of only having a problem when a consult device is connected.
  5. Hey guys i recently bought a series 1 r33, it seems to be pretty reliable thus far but it shows signs of folks performing cosmetic enhancements without either much care or knowledge of the the mechanical side. Mainly the steering wheel. It's one of those aftermarket "drift" wheels with the silver horn and the yellow stripe at 12oclock. First thing i noticed however is that the horn doesnt work. now i assume it's because the steering wheel does not have the right connections to the car, so i need help to remove the wheel and get in there so i can find a fix, cos f**k paying the mechanics when eveything they know is learnable yourself. ive heard you can either rewire shit or buy adapters or something im not sure. But the other thing is that i believe the lack of proper connections is what's causing my hicas light to come on, and also i dont know how removing the wheel will affect the airbags (if any) and the airbag light since it seems to be off and hopefully stays that way. and will this steering wheel have any affect on how my diagnosis mode is run? Thanks in advance, i may add to this forum before anyone answers as I remember other issues and questions i have about this topic
  6. A couple months ago I noticed my r33 gtst hicas ball joints were flogged but neglected the issue. I recently had a full wheel alignment done and the rear end is still snaking under acceleration and deceleration, so i decided I'd better have a closer look at the problem. As expected the balljoint are creating play and they need to be replaced asap. I've had a solid look on the net for the best upgrade without buying a whole hicas lockout system and not much luck. I have a lock bar already and i dont want to tamper with the aligment since i just paid for one. Does anyone know where i can get solid bushes to replace the worn ball joints or what the best upgrade would be. this is the only option i have found so far - http://www.jdmgarageuk.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=843. I've herd rubber(non solid bushes) would create unwanted play...
  7. Hay I have a 1993 r33 gt25t i have hicas in the rear of the car im wanting to remove it I've thought of a idea and want to get few more ideas on it. I plan on removing it by disconnecting the power supply to the hicas (Hopefully stoping the unit from working?) then by using these lil rings fit them in to the hicas unit in between the the locking collar under the boot it should stop any free play the unit would have in turn making a locking bar but still looking factory? thoughts on idea???? thanks in advance
  8. okay, so i know no one wants to hear about peoples hicas issues because everyone seems to have them, but mines different to anything i can find on the web. when i bought the car, the previous owner let me know that it was a bit dicked. originally i would start the car, id have power steering for about a minute, then it would go stiff (limp mode?), and then within 30 mins my hicas light would come on (and off intermittently). i also had the issue of my AWD light coming on occasionally, and id never seen the torque gauge move. ive changed nothing on the car since then (besides the drivers seat). the only thing thats changed recently as far as i can tell is the weather is alot cooler now. about two weeks ago, i noticed my torque gauge start working and i can feel AWD working. now in the last 2 days my power steering seems to be working 70% of the time. if i chuck the car into a corner hard, power steering will begin working as usual. it will cut out for random periods after that, or even semi work, as in it feels slightly firm. Im confused as f**k, and im wondering if AWD engaging is somehow kicking my power steering out of limp mode? ive never been able to get the car into diagnostics mode which led me to believe the steering angle sensor was at fault, but now i have no idea. all this shit seems completely random and its frustrating to drive. i dont want to lock it out, i like it (when it works) and yes ive checked fluid levels lol. so any ideas as to what bullshit is going on here? much appreciated you guys
  9. This car represents amazing value at $12,990. 2003 Nissan Stagea AXIS AUTECH, 2.5ltr V6 TURBO, tip tronic 5sp auto, All Wheel Drive (AWD), All Autech options. Engine Details in tabs at bottom are in-correct. - Engine - VQ25DET - Power - 209kW @ 6400rpm - Torque - 407Nm @ 3200rpm Complete Trasmission service with genuine nissan products - 21/02/2014 - Mechanic stated AT was in excellent condition. - New pads front and rear. - New front rotors. I have really enjoyed driving this car however it is now time to sell as I am moving overseas. This Nissan Stagea has a full service history available. Check out this well maintained car, always garaged and looked after meticulously. Genuine 120,00kms with the car having been in Australia over 2 years. Registration has been paid until January 2015. - The previous owner/importer of this vehicle had all the leather re-trimmed in a high quality off-white/ tan coloured leather which looks amazing compared to the factory trim. - GPS fixed to work in Australia along with translation of the computers menu from Japanese to English. - Reverse camera installed. - HKS coilovers fitted - Guards rolled. - Fibreglass reverse light covers (pictured) Regularly serviced, well looked after and will be extremely missed. (Swaps Considered - FD RX7, Type X 180SX, CBR600RR) PICTURES - http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Stagea-2003/SSE-AD-2583092
  10. I am selling a HICAS drag rod which replaces the stock HICAS system. Its brand new still in box. This is a lot better than installing a lock bar and also provides weight saving benefits once the HICAS is removed. Below is a link to the part I am selling, its excatly the same as the one listed on this website. Link: http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-drag-rod-super-hicas-nissan.html I am looking for around $320, I can ship this to anywhere in Australia as well. I accept PayPal as well. I was quoted $100 to get this installed by a qualified workshop. Extract from Website link above: Description The CUSCO Drag Rod Super HICAS Nissan is a must for those of you who are serious about tuning your vehicles for high speed circuit, drift, drag and all other spirited driving. Product Specs Brand: CUSCO Product: Drag Rod Super HICAS Nissan Part Num: 222 474 TC SPECIFICATIONS: Features: Provide precise handling for nissan's equipped with HICAS. - The Drag Rod replaced HICAS systems, eliminating the softness feel at high speed by providing a direct feel in car control and traction. Material: Steel. COMPATIBILITY NOTES: - Only Vehicles Equipped with HICAS - R34: Only 2WD Vehicles (Except for BNR34).
  11. All parts are located in South Sydney available for pickup or postage at buyers expense. 1. R32 GTR Stock radiator - works perfectly, as seen on the picture there as a small break in the top pipe bit, could do with a flush - $50 2. Blitz dual turbo timer - works great $40 3. R32 GTR bootlid and Twing - black, as seen in the pic there is lifting where the original wing holes were needs a paint - $50 4. R32 GTR stock intercooler - works perfectly, as seen in the pic some fins are pushed in a bit, not visable when the front bar is on - $50 5. R32 GTR under bonnet carpet - $40 6. R32 GTR gearstick and stereo surround - two top clips have been properly glues n place as they were cracked no probs otherwise- $40 7. R32 GTR Aircon condenser - $50 8. R32 GTR stock caster arms - $30 9. R32 GTR intercooler brackets - $5 10. R32 GTR blow off valve return pipe to airbox - $20 11. R32 GTR front cusco height adjustable (not sure about damper) need regas-rebuild, unknown spring rates- $100 12. R32 GTR gearbox crossmember - $50 13. R32 GTR hicas thing (lol) - $50 14. R32 GTR bonnet hinges - $20 15. R32 GTR washer bottle - $5 15. R32 GTR stock dump pipes - $20 16. R32 GTR cam cover - $30 17. R32 GTR front camber arms, unknown brand - $20 18. R32 GTR front bar intercooler mesh - $40 PM or SMS 0423932605 cheers
  12. Hi! Has anyone tried replacing the hicas computer between a r33 gtr and r33 gtst before and knows if this works? Gtst art: 2850519U10 Gtr art: 2850524U10 The reason for this is that my powersteering goes heavy from time to time, and recently stoped working fully. I did try to fix my old unit without succes. (gtst) I now have a second hand hicasbox from a R33 gtr. The units look exactly the same on the outside with identical pin connections, but Inside it looks alot diffirent! For example, In the gtst box there are 2 circuit boards, in the gtr it's only 1 etc..? I'm just want to retain the powersteering function! as my Hicas steering is removed.
  13. Hi, I'm new to the sau community and hope someone on here can help. I have an R32 GTR that I am swapping the hydraulic hicas system for the electronic hicas system out of an R33 GTR. I have the hicas ECU and rack assembly but I was unable to get the wiring harness/plugs and hicas motor relay and am in need of these parts to make it easier to integrate. Hoping someone on here has the bits or might know where to get them. I haven't found any info on anyone else doing this swap but if anyone has info on it or any tips it would be appreciated. Thanks,
  14. HKB boss kit (what is this part?) Hi! I Just recieved my new Personal Neo Grinta steering wheel today and a HKB Hicas sports III non airbag hub (ON-177) to my Skyline r33 gtst series1. I think I have figured out were everything goes except for one thing. Can someone here tell me what this part is and where it goes? im referring to the small silver ring to the right in the picture. The bigger one to the left I believe is a horn adapter? I have googled for hours but didn't find anything about this smaller ring. So If anyone here have a indentical Boss kit or can tell me what it is i'll be happy. Thanks.
  15. So I’m new to this whole r32 thing and I’m sure this topic has been covered ten fold. Hours of research got me nowhere. But my situation is slightly different. I have a R32 GTS-t with an r33 rb25det swap. my issue is removing the hicas.. I have the R33 power steering pump that has one pressure line, yet I have that extra pressure line the R32 uses for the hicas pressure line that I’m trying to loop in to the power steering in order to maintain my power steering. I’ve deleted the Hicas pump from the frame rail, looped the cooler line and removed lines running all the way to the back. I’m just trying to now loop the second pressure line Into the power steering system. Would it be easier just to find the RB20 Gtst power steering pump with two pressure line fittings or is there something I’m missing and it’s a simple fix? as stated, super new to this please help!!!
  16. R32 GTR Hicas Eliminator Kit Hello all as i have sold off my R32 GTR i shall not be needing these anymore GKtech hicas eliminator 2x Inner tie rod ends 2x Outer tie rod ends 2x Outer tie rod end plastic protectors 2x Rack boots 4x Outer ball joints ( these press fit into your upright ) All parts are brand new and only selling as package deal parts are located in WA Asking price $500 ( receipts valued at close to $900 ) PM me or just call Robert 0423 549 665
  17. Hi guys, FOR SALE: located central coast r32 gts bonnet (black pearl metallic) complete with bonnet latch assembly - $200 r32 driftworks total hicas eliminator kit (brand new, never fitted) - $300 HFM organic heavy duty street clutch (less than 1000km driven) suit rb20 25 30 - $100 Oil Cooler 30 row with all fittings (brand new) - $150 6 bolt r32 half shafts - $50 GReddy profec boost controller (brand new, never used, in box) - $450 pick up only or buyer pays postage text or PM for details: Nathan 0423 459 086 THANKS
  18. Just got some new tyres and I've never had the alignment done. There's a suspension specialist that I went to in my subaru that made it handle like a dream and I was going to go there again. The car is an R33 GTR with HICAS enabled still. I don't want to disable it but is there any gotchas to aligning a car that has HICAS? Also any recommended settings that I can suggest to them? I have HKS hipermax coilovers on!
  19. Hi all, Hoping someone can shed some light on my car. just finished a 900km highway run and my car has a nasty swerve at 105-110km/h. going from 105-115km/h my R34 25GTT has a nasty swerve left- probably 1/8 turn on the steering wheel. slowing down from 115-105km/h it swerves back the other way. under a 100km/h my steering wheel sits straight, over 115km/h is cocked about 15 Deg off centre to the right. the car feels like its crab walking. I can stop and shut down the car- wait 30 secs and no issue- wait another 15-30 mins and it comes back. do i assume its the HICAS playing up? front end alignment is good. struts are good. Scared the shit out of me the first time it happened as it was in the wet. Any info/advice would be great. Cheers Matt
  20. Hey guys. I found a R32 GTS4 for sale with a RB25 from a stagea making ~350rwhp. I have a few questions: 1. Does a GTS4 run the same gearbox and front axles etc as a GTR? 2. Where is the HICAS pump and reservoir, in the boot on the right side? 3. Is the rear diff the same in a GTS4 to a GTR? Ratio, strength, LSD? 4. Where is the ATTESA system ECU? Wiring and controlling components? 5. How does ATTESA system work, does it only send power to the front wheel when the rears start to slip? What is ETS? 6. How do you know if the system still works, like if fuse is blown or wiring is dodgy how can you tell? Does the gauge that says front torque split only read something if the system works? 7. Where is the high pressure pump that makes the front wheels engage power? 8. Is it common for 4th gear to crunch in GTS4 or GTR gearbox? 9. Is it worth putting in a GTR rear end in a RB25'd R32 GTS4, what are the advantages? 10. If ABS has been removed, does it change how the ATTESA system works? 11. Anything else you can tell me that could be useful. Thank you all in advance.
  21. Hey All Looking for some advice on how to go about reshimming the LSD for my RB25, and also looking for some info on front and rear strut braces. So the Hicas is disconnected and I'm wanting to know what else I need to do to complete the mod? I'm also rebushing the whole rear support frame for diff as it's seen better days :S So could use some tips regarding what's the best to go with. If anyone's done this or wants to throw me some advice on how to go about any of these tasks let me know, would be super grateful! Going over my car and decided to remove cooler pipes on my Blitz front mount to check oil build up and noticed the front bar had rubbed a hole into the pipe itself, I slid a silicone joiner over the hole in order to patch it up. Wondering if this is an okay solution, because the pipes come with the intercooler kit and weren't exactly cheap haha Anyways to clean oil from intercooler system? Or is that not something I should worry too much about? Would like to relocate igniter from coil pack cover...any suggestions? Advice would be appreciated
  22. GKtech Hicas Delete Hi i want to install the GKteck Hicas delete in my R34 however it does not come in a kit and I need to find my own polyurethane bushes to replace the Hicas ball joint that fits in the rear knuckle. Does anyone know where I can get the bushes required? I only want two not an entire kit. i have already tried GKtech they did not know, Whiteline and Redranger. you can see the bush (orange) in photo attached.
  23. Hi There For sale is a r34 gtt front brake kit and r34 gtt Hicas steering rack. The Brake Kit includes front calipers, pads with little use, and discs with only a slight lip, these are good to go as is. $300 The hicas steering rack is in working condition. $50 I am happy to post at buyers expense.
  24. Hi new here from the US and lack knowledge on if there is a non hicas pump I can use for my RB20DET as I tried capping the 2nd port and removing the splines inside the pump and even welding it shut still leaking. I used the search on here all I could find was hicas delete kits for the rear of the vehicle not the pump I could be searching wrong. Any help would be appreciated or a specific part number for the pump I would need. Thank you in advance
  25. Hey guys I've checked a bunch of forums and haven't found a problem similar to mine. I am driving a 94 gtr r32 and am having some hicas issues. My particular issue is when I connect my consult cable and hook it up to my computer (it doesnt matter what software I use) my hicas light comes on and my power steering gets heavy. I noticed the actual change for the power steering occurs when the solenoid drops from 1.05 when I normally drive to 0.25 using nissan datascan to monitor. When this occurs I believe it stops the possibility of 4 wheel steering occurring as the hicas solenoid stayed on 0. I have run hicas diagnostics without using consult and I get error 5, faulty speed sensor. I am currently in the middle of sorting that out. When I check the self diagnostics through datascan, I get no codes which makes me question datascan a little. My fluid levels are optimal in the front and back. I get no error codes in the ecu either. My g force sensor isnt broken. I believe my car uses the super hicas in the late model r32's Anyone have any tips? I would like to keep hicas. Cheers!
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