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I have a 1991 r32 gtr, and ever since I dropped the engine for a rebuild I’ve been having an issue where the attessa would fully engage on reverse and on first gear on slow speeds. It’s been happening for a year and now I hear a locked diff clunk when it engages again. The car is on a motec m800 ecu with the stock ecu also plugged in. I already bled the attessa system and changed the front n rear diff oil. I also unplugged the hicas fuse from the trunk to check if that was the issue, and I’ve checked all the fuses and all are fine. I’ll link the video of the attessa engaging. If anyone has any suggestions on what to do next let me know please. IMG_2154.MOV

Replaced two of my power steering lines between the reservioir and chucked a seal kit in the PS pump. Now I have no Power Steering. The Hicas diagnosis comes up as Error 22 - Steering angle sensor. My question is, is the Steering angle sensor the clock spring? My car is a series 2 r33 GTST with no modifications to the steering system. I still have Hicas and the stock steering wheel.

Hey All Looking for some advice on how to go about reshimming the LSD for my RB25, and also looking for some info on front and rear strut braces. So the Hicas is disconnected and I'm wanting to know what else I need to do to complete the mod? I'm also rebushing the whole rear support frame for diff as it's seen better days :S So could use some tips regarding what's the best to go with. If anyone's done this or wants to throw me some advice on how to go about any of these tasks let me know, would be super grateful! Going over my car and decided to remove cooler pipes on my Blitz front mount to check oil build up and noticed the front bar had rubbed a hole into the pipe itself, I slid a silicone joiner over the hole in order to patch it up. Wondering if this is an okay solution, because the pipes come with the intercooler kit and weren't exactly cheap haha Anyways to clean oil from intercooler system? Or is that not something I should worry too much about? Would like to relocate igniter from coil pack cover...any suggestions? Advice would be appreciated

This car represents amazing value at $12,990. 2003 Nissan Stagea AXIS AUTECH, 2.5ltr V6 TURBO, tip tronic 5sp auto, All Wheel Drive (AWD), All Autech options. Engine Details in tabs at bottom are in-correct. - Engine - VQ25DET - Power - 209kW @ 6400rpm - Torque - 407Nm @ 3200rpm Complete Trasmission service with genuine nissan products - 21/02/2014 - Mechanic stated AT was in excellent condition. - New pads front and rear. - New front rotors. I have really enjoyed driving this car however it is now time to sell as I am moving overseas. This Nissan Stagea has a full service history available. Check out this well maintained car, always garaged and looked after meticulously. Genuine 120,00kms with the car having been in Australia over 2 years. Registration has been paid until January 2015. - The previous owner/importer of this vehicle had all the leather re-trimmed in a high quality off-white/ tan coloured leather which looks amazing compared to the factory trim. - GPS fixed to work in Australia along with translation of the computers menu from Japanese to English. - Reverse camera installed. - HKS coilovers fitted - Guards rolled. - Fibreglass reverse light covers (pictured) Regularly serviced, well looked after and will be extremely missed. (Swaps Considered - FD RX7, Type X 180SX, CBR600RR) PICTURES - http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Stagea-2003/SSE-AD-2583092

does anyone no or recommend types proven to be suitalble, full synthetic ,mineral based ? I want to change the lot

Hi, I'm new to the sau community and hope someone on here can help. I have an R32 GTR that I am swapping the hydraulic hicas system for the electronic hicas system out of an R33 GTR. I have the hicas ECU and rack assembly but I was unable to get the wiring harness/plugs and hicas motor relay and am in need of these parts to make it easier to integrate. Hoping someone on here has the bits or might know where to get them. I haven't found any info on anyone else doing this swap but if anyone has info on it or any tips it would be appreciated. Thanks,

DIY: Hicas ball joint removal & replacement / Gktech lock bar install. Job: Replace worn out hicas ball joints, without removing hubs. Fit hicas lock bar. Parts needed: Gktech lock bar 2x Hicas ball joints Tools needed: Jack, Jack stands, WD40, Grease, Impact wrench, Adjustable wrench, Socket set 10-30mm, Circlip pliers, Pliers, Ball joint press kit, 42mm O.D. x 37mm I.D. x 60mm Steel pipe, Pitman arm tool, Angle grinder, Breaker bar, Safety glasses, Hearing protection, Mask. Duration: 3-6hrs. Difficulty: Medium - Easy with the right tools. Step 1: Remove rear seat, remove battery earth and remove suspension. Then carefully jack up the car and use jack stands. Step 2. Spray wd-40 on the bolts, remove split pin and 17mm nut from ball joint/tie rod end. Step 3. Use pitman arm tool or suitable tool to remove tie rod end. Step 4. Crack the tie rods from the hicas unit under the rubber boot, unplug the hicas wiring. Step 5. Remove the 19mm bolts holding the hicas unit to the car and then remove the tie rods. Step 6. Install the tie rods into the gktech lock bar leaving the rubber boots loose. Set that aside for now. BALL JOINT REMOVAL. Step 7. Remove circlip from back of ball joint. Step 8.Cut the ball joint stud to allow more space to remove. Step 9.If you haven't removed suspension do it now.Use the ball joint press tool to press the joint out.Most kits don't come with a small enough size pipe to allow for extraction of the joint, so you will have to find a steel pipe of 42mm O.D. x 37mm I.D. x 60mm. Very common pipe size fits perfectly. Carefully align your press tool with the pipe on the hub. I used 5mm steel plate as a backing plate and then used the correct size socket to sit flush on the back of the ball joint. This will allow you to push the ball joint through the hub towards the rear. Step 10. With the ball joint removed, clean the ball joint housing with wd40 and a rag. Step 11.Apply grease to the joint and housing. Step 12.Use a 30mm socket or similar sized pipe that fits over the rubber boot and sits on the metal rim of the joint to press the new joint in. Align the press tool with the socket and ball joints rim and start to turn the press tool to insert the joint into the hub. Joint installed. Step 13.Reinstall the circlip to the back of the ball joint. Step 14.Cable tie the hicas wiring out of the way. Install the gktech lock bar. Tighten the 19mm bolts. Check the tie rods are tight, then secure the rubber boots. Step 15.Install the tie rod ends and replace the 17mm nut and split pin. Step 16.Reinstall suspension, rear seat and wheels.Remove hicas bulb on the cluster, or cut hicas warning light wire on hicas cu in boot.Get wheel alignment.All Done.

Wanted: R32 GTS-T hicas system I need the front solenoid, cut off valve, and all the hydraulic lines. Will need to be posted to Tasmania Price: ?

Hi All, I’ve done a search and couldn’t find anything on this specific topic. On startup I have this weird buzzing sound from the rear of the car which goes away in about 10 seconds. It’s definitely not the fuel pump. Sounds like something 4WD or HICAS related pressurising? It can be heard intermittently for about 2 seconds every 30 seconds or so after the first “prime”. Is it a normal V-Spec thing, or am I losing pressure somewhere? Hope someone can shine some light on this. Thanks!

Wire identification near rear diff I recently replaced all the bushes in the rear subframe of my R32 GTR. When re-installing the subframe I found a wire that I couldn't identify - not sure where it plugs back into. In the pics it's the one I'm holding / is hanging down. Has a sort of red connector to it. Could it be an old HICAS wire? Where does it go!? Cheers

Hi all, Hoping someone can shed some light on my car. just finished a 900km highway run and my car has a nasty swerve at 105-110km/h. going from 105-115km/h my R34 25GTT has a nasty swerve left- probably 1/8 turn on the steering wheel. slowing down from 115-105km/h it swerves back the other way. under a 100km/h my steering wheel sits straight, over 115km/h is cocked about 15 Deg off centre to the right. the car feels like its crab walking. I can stop and shut down the car- wait 30 secs and no issue- wait another 15-30 mins and it comes back. do i assume its the HICAS playing up? front end alignment is good. struts are good. Scared the shit out of me the first time it happened as it was in the wet. Any info/advice would be great. Cheers Matt

Just got some new tyres and I've never had the alignment done. There's a suspension specialist that I went to in my subaru that made it handle like a dream and I was going to go there again. The car is an R33 GTR with HICAS enabled still. I don't want to disable it but is there any gotchas to aligning a car that has HICAS? Also any recommended settings that I can suggest to them? I have HKS hipermax coilovers on!

Hey guys i recently bought a series 1 r33, it seems to be pretty reliable thus far but it shows signs of folks performing cosmetic enhancements without either much care or knowledge of the the mechanical side. Mainly the steering wheel. It's one of those aftermarket "drift" wheels with the silver horn and the yellow stripe at 12oclock. First thing i noticed however is that the horn doesnt work. now i assume it's because the steering wheel does not have the right connections to the car, so i need help to remove the wheel and get in there so i can find a fix, cos f**k paying the mechanics when eveything they know is learnable yourself. ive heard you can either rewire shit or buy adapters or something im not sure. But the other thing is that i believe the lack of proper connections is what's causing my hicas light to come on, and also i dont know how removing the wheel will affect the airbags (if any) and the airbag light since it seems to be off and hopefully stays that way. and will this steering wheel have any affect on how my diagnosis mode is run? Thanks in advance, i may add to this forum before anyone answers as I remember other issues and questions i have about this topic

Hi new here from the US and lack knowledge on if there is a non hicas pump I can use for my RB20DET as I tried capping the 2nd port and removing the splines inside the pump and even welding it shut still leaking. I used the search on here all I could find was hicas delete kits for the rear of the vehicle not the pump I could be searching wrong. Any help would be appreciated or a specific part number for the pump I would need. Thank you in advance

So I’m new to this whole r32 thing and I’m sure this topic has been covered ten fold. Hours of research got me nowhere. But my situation is slightly different. I have a R32 GTS-t with an r33 rb25det swap. my issue is removing the hicas.. I have the R33 power steering pump that has one pressure line, yet I have that extra pressure line the R32 uses for the hicas pressure line that I’m trying to loop in to the power steering in order to maintain my power steering. I’ve deleted the Hicas pump from the frame rail, looped the cooler line and removed lines running all the way to the back. I’m just trying to now loop the second pressure line Into the power steering system. Would it be easier just to find the RB20 Gtst power steering pump with two pressure line fittings or is there something I’m missing and it’s a simple fix? as stated, super new to this please help!!!

R33 GTST HICAS problem Hi guys. I think my 33 is having the same issue as this one http://www.jdmr32.com/hicas-aftermarket-steering-wheel-error-light It will lose power steering after 10-15 minutes highway driving. I also confirmed that my current steering boss doesn't have hicas. I have ordered a boss kit with hicas (HKB on-177) from justjap. Now trying to read the steering angle from the consult port. However, it seems I am experiencing some ridiculous issued with consult interface. In Nissan DataScan free version, I can only read rpm and speed. There are a lot of other free functions but I cannot read. Dont know why. So I havent purchased a full version. ConZult-free works fine, but I find nowhere to buy its paid version. And it seems to be pretty expensive. ScanTech Nissan and TECU cannot connect. ECUTALK works fine but it doesnt have steering angle. So it is useless here. So, can anyone give me some suggestion now? I am in Mel. Can anyone help me? Or tell me a good and relatively cheap mechanic who knows skyline in Mel? I am sure glad to pay for that. Thanks guys. Michael

GKtech Hicas Delete Hi i want to install the GKteck Hicas delete in my R34 however it does not come in a kit and I need to find my own polyurethane bushes to replace the Hicas ball joint that fits in the rear knuckle. Does anyone know where I can get the bushes required? I only want two not an entire kit. i have already tried GKtech they did not know, Whiteline and Redranger. you can see the bush (orange) in photo attached.

Hicas on r33 Hey guys just got lock bar fitted and steering still heavy if turn car off and restart.. Do I need to remove pin from hicas computer or cut wire.. Any help would be a huge help. Thanks

Hi theres probably about million posts on hicas issues and i have read some of them but most the problems that i have read about are not too similar to my issues My hicas light is on almost all the time except for when the car is idling or if your cruizing at a constant speed But if its idling and the high beam lights are on or when you gradually slow down or you hold the brake on then a clunking noise starts towards the back car around the diff also as you turn the steering wheel on 45 degrees each way you get a hard spot and it click towards the front and then feels normal the rest of the way. Apparently the previous owner did bleed the power steering fluids to get the air out but it made no difference. If any legend can help me i would appreciate it greatly

okay, so i know no one wants to hear about peoples hicas issues because everyone seems to have them, but mines different to anything i can find on the web. when i bought the car, the previous owner let me know that it was a bit dicked. originally i would start the car, id have power steering for about a minute, then it would go stiff (limp mode?), and then within 30 mins my hicas light would come on (and off intermittently). i also had the issue of my AWD light coming on occasionally, and id never seen the torque gauge move. ive changed nothing on the car since then (besides the drivers seat). the only thing thats changed recently as far as i can tell is the weather is alot cooler now. about two weeks ago, i noticed my torque gauge start working and i can feel AWD working. now in the last 2 days my power steering seems to be working 70% of the time. if i chuck the car into a corner hard, power steering will begin working as usual. it will cut out for random periods after that, or even semi work, as in it feels slightly firm. Im confused as f**k, and im wondering if AWD engaging is somehow kicking my power steering out of limp mode? ive never been able to get the car into diagnostics mode which led me to believe the steering angle sensor was at fault, but now i have no idea. all this shit seems completely random and its frustrating to drive. i dont want to lock it out, i like it (when it works) and yes ive checked fluid levels lol. so any ideas as to what bullshit is going on here? much appreciated you guys

Hi, I'm Ben and I am currently working my R32 GTR ( never ending life choice) and I have decided to upgrade the hicas system with the electronic super hicas from the R33 GTR. I have all the parts except for the hicas motor relay and the wiring harness/plugs. I know alot of people lock the hicas system out and I'm hoping someone on here has the couple of bits I need laying around that they could sell me as it would save me alot of hours in making/wiring everything from scratch. Cheers.

Hey guys. I found a R32 GTS4 for sale with a RB25 from a stagea making ~350rwhp. I have a few questions: 1. Does a GTS4 run the same gearbox and front axles etc as a GTR? 2. Where is the HICAS pump and reservoir, in the boot on the right side? 3. Is the rear diff the same in a GTS4 to a GTR? Ratio, strength, LSD? 4. Where is the ATTESA system ECU? Wiring and controlling components? 5. How does ATTESA system work, does it only send power to the front wheel when the rears start to slip? What is ETS? 6. How do you know if the system still works, like if fuse is blown or wiring is dodgy how can you tell? Does the gauge that says front torque split only read something if the system works? 7. Where is the high pressure pump that makes the front wheels engage power? 8. Is it common for 4th gear to crunch in GTS4 or GTR gearbox? 9. Is it worth putting in a GTR rear end in a RB25'd R32 GTS4, what are the advantages? 10. If ABS has been removed, does it change how the ATTESA system works? 11. Anything else you can tell me that could be useful. Thank you all in advance.

Hi people, I'm looking for an r33 gtr hicas wiring harness/ plugs and hicas motor relay to do an electronic hicas conversion on my r32 gtr. I have tried all of the skyline/jap spares and wreckers I could find and haven't had any luck, if anyone on here knows where I might be able to get one or has one, it would make the project a lot easier and make it a lot neater. I have everything else ( r33 gtr hicas ECU, yaw sensor, rack assembly, clock spring and a good set of wiring diagrams which I have already cross referenced to the r32 diagram to make it work). Any info or help would be appreciated. Thanks ?

HKB boss kit (what is this part?) Hi! I Just recieved my new Personal Neo Grinta steering wheel today and a HKB Hicas sports III non airbag hub (ON-177) to my Skyline r33 gtst series1. I think I have figured out were everything goes except for one thing. Can someone here tell me what this part is and where it goes? im referring to the small silver ring to the right in the picture. The bigger one to the left I believe is a horn adapter? I have googled for hours but didn't find anything about this smaller ring. So If anyone here have a indentical Boss kit or can tell me what it is i'll be happy. Thanks.

Hi! Has anyone tried replacing the hicas computer between a r33 gtr and r33 gtst before and knows if this works? Gtst art: 2850519U10 Gtr art: 2850524U10 The reason for this is that my powersteering goes heavy from time to time, and recently stoped working fully. I did try to fix my old unit without succes. (gtst) I now have a second hand hicasbox from a R33 gtr. The units look exactly the same on the outside with identical pin connections, but Inside it looks alot diffirent! For example, In the gtst box there are 2 circuit boards, in the gtr it's only 1 etc..? I'm just want to retain the powersteering function! as my Hicas steering is removed.