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Build Thread

  1. I have a 1991 r32 gtr, and ever since I dropped the engine for a rebuild I’ve been having an issue where the attessa would fully engage on reverse and on first gear on slow speeds. It’s been happening for a year and now I hear a locked diff clunk when it engages again. The car is on a motec m800 ecu with the stock ecu also plugged in. I already bled the attessa system and changed the front n rear diff oil. I also unplugged the hicas fuse from the trunk to check if that was the issue, and I’ve checked all the fuses and all are fine. I’ll link the video of the attessa engaging. If anyone has any suggestions on what to do next let me know please. IMG_2154.MOV
  2. Replaced two of my power steering lines between the reservioir and chucked a seal kit in the PS pump. Now I have no Power Steering. The Hicas diagnosis comes up as Error 22 - Steering angle sensor. My question is, is the Steering angle sensor the clock spring? My car is a series 2 r33 GTST with no modifications to the steering system. I still have Hicas and the stock steering wheel.
  3. Hi Guys this is a EOI right now i will be putting a better ad at up once i get time for photos, i have a heap of R33 parts left over from my old R33 i parted out a year ago, im trying to move out of home need to get rid of some parts, all the prices are negotiable, if you pick up and buy more parts I'm happy to work out some sweet deals R33 Gtst Brakes: Front and read calipers with new seals have been painted red and new TRW pads, disc's RDA slotted front and stock Rears both in VGC $650.00 R33 Gtst factory side skirts in KR4 Silver $150 R33 S2 passenger headlight VGC $200.00 R33 non-abs diff, will need to confirm the spec's i have been told this is a mechanical Diff $800 if its a mechanical $200 if its factory R33 Gtst Jic Coil overs these are pillow ball coil overs which meas there is some noise the lower rubber bushes are cracking $400 R33 Gtst rear adjustable camber and traction arms in good condition $200 R33 Hicas lock out bar $50 for the bars and $50 for the hicas tie rod arms Location: Canberra Contact: PM or feel free to call on 0403 281 three three one I'm happy to ship at your expense
  4. Hi guys, FOR SALE: located central coast r32 gts bonnet (black pearl metallic) complete with bonnet latch assembly - $200 r32 driftworks total hicas eliminator kit (brand new, never fitted) - $300 HFM organic heavy duty street clutch (less than 1000km driven) suit rb20 25 30 - $100 Oil Cooler 30 row with all fittings (brand new) - $150 6 bolt r32 half shafts - $50 GReddy profec boost controller (brand new, never used, in box) - $450 pick up only or buyer pays postage text or PM for details: Nathan 0423 459 086 THANKS
  5. Hi theres probably about million posts on hicas issues and i have read some of them but most the problems that i have read about are not too similar to my issues My hicas light is on almost all the time except for when the car is idling or if your cruizing at a constant speed But if its idling and the high beam lights are on or when you gradually slow down or you hold the brake on then a clunking noise starts towards the back car around the diff also as you turn the steering wheel on 45 degrees each way you get a hard spot and it click towards the front and then feels normal the rest of the way. Apparently the previous owner did bleed the power steering fluids to get the air out but it made no difference. If any legend can help me i would appreciate it greatly
  6. Up For Sale GReddy Profec Electronic Boost Controller (Brand new) - $450 r32 Driftworks total hicas eliminator kit (brand new) - $300 Location - Gosford Central Coast Contact - Nathan on 0423 459 086 Thanks.
  7. Hey All Looking for some advice on how to go about reshimming the LSD for my RB25, and also looking for some info on front and rear strut braces. So the Hicas is disconnected and I'm wanting to know what else I need to do to complete the mod? I'm also rebushing the whole rear support frame for diff as it's seen better days :S So could use some tips regarding what's the best to go with. If anyone's done this or wants to throw me some advice on how to go about any of these tasks let me know, would be super grateful! Going over my car and decided to remove cooler pipes on my Blitz front mount to check oil build up and noticed the front bar had rubbed a hole into the pipe itself, I slid a silicone joiner over the hole in order to patch it up. Wondering if this is an okay solution, because the pipes come with the intercooler kit and weren't exactly cheap haha Anyways to clean oil from intercooler system? Or is that not something I should worry too much about? Would like to relocate igniter from coil pack cover...any suggestions? Advice would be appreciated
  8. I am selling a HICAS drag rod which replaces the stock HICAS system. Its brand new still in box. This is a lot better than installing a lock bar and also provides weight saving benefits once the HICAS is removed. Below is a link to the part I am selling, its excatly the same as the one listed on this website. Link: http://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-drag-rod-super-hicas-nissan.html I am looking for around $320, I can ship this to anywhere in Australia as well. I accept PayPal as well. I was quoted $100 to get this installed by a qualified workshop. Extract from Website link above: Description The CUSCO Drag Rod Super HICAS Nissan is a must for those of you who are serious about tuning your vehicles for high speed circuit, drift, drag and all other spirited driving. Product Specs Brand: CUSCO Product: Drag Rod Super HICAS Nissan Part Num: 222 474 TC SPECIFICATIONS: Features: Provide precise handling for nissan's equipped with HICAS. - The Drag Rod replaced HICAS systems, eliminating the softness feel at high speed by providing a direct feel in car control and traction. Material: Steel. COMPATIBILITY NOTES: - Only Vehicles Equipped with HICAS - R34: Only 2WD Vehicles (Except for BNR34).
  9. A couple months ago I noticed my r33 gtst hicas ball joints were flogged but neglected the issue. I recently had a full wheel alignment done and the rear end is still snaking under acceleration and deceleration, so i decided I'd better have a closer look at the problem. As expected the balljoint are creating play and they need to be replaced asap. I've had a solid look on the net for the best upgrade without buying a whole hicas lockout system and not much luck. I have a lock bar already and i dont want to tamper with the aligment since i just paid for one. Does anyone know where i can get solid bushes to replace the worn ball joints or what the best upgrade would be. this is the only option i have found so far - http://www.jdmgarageuk.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=843. I've herd rubber(non solid bushes) would create unwanted play...
  10. Hi all, Just have a few things up for sale. gktech hicas lock bar. Suits - Nissan 180sx - Nissan S13 Silvia - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T - Nissan Skyline R32 GTR $50 R33 skyline front upright and hubs. $20 180sx early model rear lights. $50 s13/180sx driver side door card with electric window module. $50 s13/180sx Driftworks adjustable tension brace new. $100 s13/180sx full brake setup - 4 calipers, hubs and discs. Discs are bit rusted from sitting oustide but still good. Recently resurfaced. $50 All located in Melb/Clayton just let me know if you have any questions. Cheers,
  11. Hay I have a 1993 r33 gt25t i have hicas in the rear of the car im wanting to remove it I've thought of a idea and want to get few more ideas on it. I plan on removing it by disconnecting the power supply to the hicas (Hopefully stoping the unit from working?) then by using these lil rings fit them in to the hicas unit in between the the locking collar under the boot it should stop any free play the unit would have in turn making a locking bar but still looking factory? thoughts on idea???? thanks in advance
  12. okay, so i know no one wants to hear about peoples hicas issues because everyone seems to have them, but mines different to anything i can find on the web. when i bought the car, the previous owner let me know that it was a bit dicked. originally i would start the car, id have power steering for about a minute, then it would go stiff (limp mode?), and then within 30 mins my hicas light would come on (and off intermittently). i also had the issue of my AWD light coming on occasionally, and id never seen the torque gauge move. ive changed nothing on the car since then (besides the drivers seat). the only thing thats changed recently as far as i can tell is the weather is alot cooler now. about two weeks ago, i noticed my torque gauge start working and i can feel AWD working. now in the last 2 days my power steering seems to be working 70% of the time. if i chuck the car into a corner hard, power steering will begin working as usual. it will cut out for random periods after that, or even semi work, as in it feels slightly firm. Im confused as f**k, and im wondering if AWD engaging is somehow kicking my power steering out of limp mode? ive never been able to get the car into diagnostics mode which led me to believe the steering angle sensor was at fault, but now i have no idea. all this shit seems completely random and its frustrating to drive. i dont want to lock it out, i like it (when it works) and yes ive checked fluid levels lol. so any ideas as to what bullshit is going on here? much appreciated you guys
  13. This car represents amazing value at $12,990. 2003 Nissan Stagea AXIS AUTECH, 2.5ltr V6 TURBO, tip tronic 5sp auto, All Wheel Drive (AWD), All Autech options. Engine Details in tabs at bottom are in-correct. - Engine - VQ25DET - Power - 209kW @ 6400rpm - Torque - 407Nm @ 3200rpm Complete Trasmission service with genuine nissan products - 21/02/2014 - Mechanic stated AT was in excellent condition. - New pads front and rear. - New front rotors. I have really enjoyed driving this car however it is now time to sell as I am moving overseas. This Nissan Stagea has a full service history available. Check out this well maintained car, always garaged and looked after meticulously. Genuine 120,00kms with the car having been in Australia over 2 years. Registration has been paid until January 2015. - The previous owner/importer of this vehicle had all the leather re-trimmed in a high quality off-white/ tan coloured leather which looks amazing compared to the factory trim. - GPS fixed to work in Australia along with translation of the computers menu from Japanese to English. - Reverse camera installed. - HKS coilovers fitted - Guards rolled. - Fibreglass reverse light covers (pictured) Regularly serviced, well looked after and will be extremely missed. (Swaps Considered - FD RX7, Type X 180SX, CBR600RR) PICTURES - http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Stagea-2003/SSE-AD-2583092
  14. does anyone no or recommend types proven to be suitalble, full synthetic ,mineral based ? I want to change the lot
  15. Hey guys I've checked a bunch of forums and haven't found a problem similar to mine. I am driving a 94 gtr r32 and am having some hicas issues. My particular issue is when I connect my consult cable and hook it up to my computer (it doesnt matter what software I use) my hicas light comes on and my power steering gets heavy. I noticed the actual change for the power steering occurs when the solenoid drops from 1.05 when I normally drive to 0.25 using nissan datascan to monitor. When this occurs I believe it stops the possibility of 4 wheel steering occurring as the hicas solenoid stayed on 0. I have run hicas diagnostics without using consult and I get error 5, faulty speed sensor. I am currently in the middle of sorting that out. When I check the self diagnostics through datascan, I get no codes which makes me question datascan a little. My fluid levels are optimal in the front and back. I get no error codes in the ecu either. My g force sensor isnt broken. I believe my car uses the super hicas in the late model r32's Anyone have any tips? I would like to keep hicas. Cheers!
  16. Just got some new tyres and I've never had the alignment done. There's a suspension specialist that I went to in my subaru that made it handle like a dream and I was going to go there again. The car is an R33 GTR with HICAS enabled still. I don't want to disable it but is there any gotchas to aligning a car that has HICAS? Also any recommended settings that I can suggest to them? I have HKS hipermax coilovers on!
  17. Harro, Just stuff lying around the garage, all parts are used. Factory Steering Rack Ends/Tie Rods $10 Factory Steering Tie Rod Ends $10 Factory SMIC $50 Factory SMIC piping $50 Factory Cross over pipe & BOV $50 Factory Down pipe $20 Factory Dump pipe $20 Factory Catalytic Converter $50 Factory O2 sensor $10 Factory Mint Handbrake OEM boot $10 Factory HICAS unit $20 Factory Passenger side kick panel, 1x flare clip broken $5 Factory Stock R33 Rims x4 (tyres might not pass an inspection) $100 Bendix DB1170 Front Brake Pads (Near New) - "Guaranteed Race Car Like Squeal" $30 Blitz 60mm Gauge Holder $5 Subframe Lock Collars - Blue in Colour, full set (8 pieces) $40 Contacts: PM or Reply Here Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166 (AH) OR Milsons Point, NSW, 2061 (BH) Will post some items, but prefer pick-up. Will give discount on bulk purchases, and yes I accept beer as payment also (no VB, Fosters, XXXX, etc..)
  18. All parts are located in South Sydney available for pickup or postage at buyers expense. 1. R32 GTR Stock radiator - works perfectly, as seen on the picture there as a small break in the top pipe bit, could do with a flush - $50 2. Blitz dual turbo timer - works great $40 3. R32 GTR bootlid and Twing - black, as seen in the pic there is lifting where the original wing holes were needs a paint - $50 4. R32 GTR stock intercooler - works perfectly, as seen in the pic some fins are pushed in a bit, not visable when the front bar is on - $50 5. R32 GTR under bonnet carpet - $40 6. R32 GTR gearstick and stereo surround - two top clips have been properly glues n place as they were cracked no probs otherwise- $40 7. R32 GTR Aircon condenser - $50 8. R32 GTR stock caster arms - $30 9. R32 GTR intercooler brackets - $5 10. R32 GTR blow off valve return pipe to airbox - $20 11. R32 GTR front cusco height adjustable (not sure about damper) need regas-rebuild, unknown spring rates- $100 12. R32 GTR gearbox crossmember - $50 13. R32 GTR hicas thing (lol) - $50 14. R32 GTR bonnet hinges - $20 15. R32 GTR washer bottle - $5 15. R32 GTR stock dump pipes - $20 16. R32 GTR cam cover - $30 17. R32 GTR front camber arms, unknown brand - $20 18. R32 GTR front bar intercooler mesh - $40 PM or SMS 0423932605 cheers
  19. Hey guys. I found a R32 GTS4 for sale with a RB25 from a stagea making ~350rwhp. I have a few questions: 1. Does a GTS4 run the same gearbox and front axles etc as a GTR? 2. Where is the HICAS pump and reservoir, in the boot on the right side? 3. Is the rear diff the same in a GTS4 to a GTR? Ratio, strength, LSD? 4. Where is the ATTESA system ECU? Wiring and controlling components? 5. How does ATTESA system work, does it only send power to the front wheel when the rears start to slip? What is ETS? 6. How do you know if the system still works, like if fuse is blown or wiring is dodgy how can you tell? Does the gauge that says front torque split only read something if the system works? 7. Where is the high pressure pump that makes the front wheels engage power? 8. Is it common for 4th gear to crunch in GTS4 or GTR gearbox? 9. Is it worth putting in a GTR rear end in a RB25'd R32 GTS4, what are the advantages? 10. If ABS has been removed, does it change how the ATTESA system works? 11. Anything else you can tell me that could be useful. Thank you all in advance.
  20. FS: Rb25 Rocker covers Rb25 Cam Cover R33 Standard Sway Bars Rb25 Standard BOV Most suspension arms two standard wheels with 90% good tread Standard front discs HICAS bar R33 GTST cluster (Broken clear plastic front and the idle needle doesnt work) Standard exhaust manifold Standard injectors Standard intake manifold Offer me something as i need it gone ASAP Text me, Located in Hobart, If you want pictures ill send them to your mobile/email Can organise freight but its at your own risk. Deano 0413926350
  21. Hi all, Hoping someone can shed some light on my car. just finished a 900km highway run and my car has a nasty swerve at 105-110km/h. going from 105-115km/h my R34 25GTT has a nasty swerve left- probably 1/8 turn on the steering wheel. slowing down from 115-105km/h it swerves back the other way. under a 100km/h my steering wheel sits straight, over 115km/h is cocked about 15 Deg off centre to the right. the car feels like its crab walking. I can stop and shut down the car- wait 30 secs and no issue- wait another 15-30 mins and it comes back. do i assume its the HICAS playing up? front end alignment is good. struts are good. Scared the shit out of me the first time it happened as it was in the wet. Any info/advice would be great. Cheers Matt
  22. Hey Errbody I have a whole heap of GTR parts that Im looking to sell, everything is in amazing condition the car it came out of only has 60,000kms on the clock, just wanna get rid of it all so let me know.? 1x R32 GTR rear cradle with working hicas rack and working hicas pumps, sub-frame bushes in perfect condition $300.00ono 1x Full set of standard R32 GTR suspension arms (Camber,Traction,Toe) $100.00ono 1x Pair of R32 GTR rear LCA's $70.00ono 1x Pair of R32 GTR rear knuckles $70.00ono 1x Rear R32 GTR diff cover $40.00ono Im am Very negotiable on all this stuff really just looking to get rid of all this stuff. located Northern Beaches SYDNEY.. (can post anywhere really though) Can get pictures if you want, just ask PM me / MSG me or Call me on 0426982733 Cheers Josh.
  23. Wire identification near rear diff I recently replaced all the bushes in the rear subframe of my R32 GTR. When re-installing the subframe I found a wire that I couldn't identify - not sure where it plugs back into. In the pics it's the one I'm holding / is hanging down. Has a sort of red connector to it. Could it be an old HICAS wire? Where does it go!? Cheers
  24. R32 GTR Hicas Eliminator Kit Hello all as i have sold off my R32 GTR i shall not be needing these anymore GKtech hicas eliminator 2x Inner tie rod ends 2x Outer tie rod ends 2x Outer tie rod end plastic protectors 2x Rack boots 4x Outer ball joints ( these press fit into your upright ) All parts are brand new and only selling as package deal parts are located in WA Asking price $500 ( receipts valued at close to $900 ) PM me or just call Robert 0423 549 665
  25. HKB boss kit (what is this part?) Hi! I Just recieved my new Personal Neo Grinta steering wheel today and a HKB Hicas sports III non airbag hub (ON-177) to my Skyline r33 gtst series1. I think I have figured out were everything goes except for one thing. Can someone here tell me what this part is and where it goes? im referring to the small silver ring to the right in the picture. The bigger one to the left I believe is a horn adapter? I have googled for hours but didn't find anything about this smaller ring. So If anyone here have a indentical Boss kit or can tell me what it is i'll be happy. Thanks.
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