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Hi everyone!! I have some great news for all L20ET owners & HR30 owners with L20ET engines...I know this is a very very very very rare engine! For the last year or so I have been looking for an L20ET wiring diagram, all I could of ever find close to it was the L28ET wiring diagram which didn't help me. After searching and searching and searching everywhere on the internet including all these kinds of forums, no one could of helped me. I have found the original L20ET wiring diagram!!! It's the same 3 jack ECU, its for the L20E & L20ET...Don't mind I forgot what I searched for in google, but I found it in google images and I cleared my history already, anyways I have the diagram THANK YOU JESUS! The only problem is that is in Jap/Chinese and I need it to be translated ASAP! I will post the diagram below and can someone please take it and translate it to english. I'm sure this will be very helpful to all the L20ET owners such as myself. W-12_HR30_L20E_L20ET_ECCS_1983.pdf I also have the complete diagram for the interior of the car also, that needs translating as well. Let me know if you need it. Please translate this 1 to english. Thanks!

Hi im after some dr30/Hr30 or hr31 skyline front struts with 100mm caliper spacing. Located Melbourne. Happy to pay for shipping/freight Sms/call or pm me if you've got some you'd like to sell 0402697000 Thanks

HR30 Skyline - running rough after being in storage hey guys, hoping someone here can point me in the right direction....100% stock standard 1982 Nissan Skyline HR30 – L20ET. Was running perfectly fine as a daily driver until put into storage January 2014. Unfortunately I neglected to put in a fuel stabiliser, but did leave the battery on an automatic charger. Around 18 months later in mid 2015 I started it, maybe put in some new fuel, maybe not, drove it around for a week then put it back into storage, was running fine.Fast forward another 18 months and I’m back in the country permanently now and looking to return it to a daily driver, I hopped in and cranked it, battery has heaps of cranking power, but the engine didn’t want to fire, gave it a little more throttle than normal and it ran with the engine shaking like an unbalanced washing machine for around 10-20 seconds before I turned it off.Next I drained the fuel tank, replaced with 20L of 95 octane fuel, replaced fuel filter, then tried again. Engine no longer shaking and but sounds like running on 4 or 5 cylinders. I can now hear the old fuel pump running almost constantly – it never used to do this.Replaced fuel pump with new Bosch pump from NZEFI, looks identical to stock. Still running rough, new fuel pump running almost constantly.Cleaned fuel injectors using this method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUUgR94drxg- this seemed to get it idling a bit better (engine was cold), and at first I thought I had fixed it, could rev it freely when it was cold.However after a couple minutes of idling and warming up (still sounds like on 5 cylinders) when I give it 1/3rd throttle or more it will hesitate and cut in and out. If I persist with trying to rev it, sometimes it will hesitate, cut out, cut back in then rev nearly freely up to 4000rpm or so. If I try and drive down the street, under 1/3rd throttle or more it will surge violently, cut in and out, if I back off the throttle I can drive it at around 30-40kph but its pretty temperamental.Next I put in new spark plugs and leads, same symptoms.Next replaced the AFM with second hand one, disconnected battery, stood on brakes, reconnected battery, same symptoms. Then I took the black cover off and turned it counter clockwise 5-10 clicks to richen the mixture. This seemed to get it to run a little bit better, but after a couple of laps around the block it was back to surging / cutting in and out.I’ve had a look around general wiring, pulled plugs off and used contact cleaner. Pulled the distributor off, looks fine, the gears at the bottom which I think is the Camshaft Angle Sensor look fine.Not sure what to do next, what do these symptoms sound like to you? It seems like it gets worse as the car warms up.As a side note, after installing the second hand AFM now the temperature gauge goes to above hot as soon as you turn on the ignition.