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Currently have my engine out for a rebuild, and doing some other works on the rest of the car while it sits, like taking the steering wheel off to replace the clock spring and removing the wiring and button the previous owner wired in to the dash to make the horn work. My dash lights like the ABS, AIR BAG, HICAS, etc that come on when you turn accessories on as well as the climate control unit stay on when the ignition is off and key is taken out. Unfortunately Im not sure if this was happening before i pulled the steering wheel off and replaced the clock spring. Is this likely just something with the wiring that will be sorted when the engine is back in and everything wired up? Or could it be something from the wiring under the dash with the ignition? Thanks in advance

Hello all! After removing my immobiliser and swapping out a faulty HEC, im now left with a car that starts, runs fine but won't cut the ignition signal when the key is removed / ignition barrel is disconnected from the loom. When the battery has been disconnected THEN reconnected, i have no voltage coming from wire 3 (ignition wire) when probing (with the harness connected, as expected.) However, when the ignition is switched on (by turning the key in the barrel) the signal is closed and the circuit is complete, but it will not open the circuit when the key is switched back to off and even when the circuit is opened by removing the ignition barrel harness. This circuit will remain complete until either the battery is disconnected, or the IGN-1 relay is removed from the HEC unit. I was originally under the impression it was a short to voltage, but when i realised it only occurs once the barrel has been turned and not so much as soon as the harness is connected to the battery i'm stumped. I've tried identifying any relays installed complimentary to the immobiliser, but can't find anything hidden up under the dash or in the engine bay, any help or pointers is appreciated and ill attach the relevant diagrams, including a complete body and engine harness diagram as a pdf. any pointers and help is appreciated! thanks for your time! r31_service_manual_ti_diagram.pdf

Hi all, I bought an R32 GTR a few months ago, noticed a fuel leak and went to investigated. I pulled out the connectors to the top of the fuel pumps so that I could better see where the leak was coming from (initially thought it was a crack in the tank). Once I realized where the leak was coming from (one of the hose clamps from soft lines to hard lines rusted off) I plugged the pumps back in and went to start the car to get a better look at exactly where the car was leaking from. So here is the issue, when I turn the key to the first and second positions everything is normal, lights come on, clock comes on, dash starts up like normal, as soon as I hit the "On" position the car tries to prime the fuel pump and the center diff for about a tenth of a second and then all of the electrics cut out. The interior lights still work and the headlights still come on but pretty much everything else is non-functional. I can repeat this but I have to unplug the battery, otherwise nothing comes on when I try again after the initial cut out. So here are the things I have checked: All fuses (under hood and under steering wheel) Fusible Link, nothing wrong Removed the FPCM (checked it, nothing wrong that I can see) New battery Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

R32 gtst hot issues Hey, So ive got a 1992 gtst type m that i picked up recently. Its got 100,540km on it now and i just did the timing belt, put on a cheap diy intake and thats it. The car is in spotless condition. Now im having an issue with the car when it warms up. Originally it would just start hard after the car had been driven. Now the car will start fine cold with no misfires or anything, but as soon as it gets to operating temp it just stalls. If you crank it over the idle will be high, around 1800rpm and then it will start to idle hunt from about 800 to 1800rpm. If you give it any throttle input itll stop at 2500 rpm which im assuming its a limp mode? I replaced the ignitor and checked all fuses throughout, but im running out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated! Dan 20170820_153441.mp4

Power FC Installation - Ignition not turning off? Hey guys, I recently installed an Apexi Power FC on my R34 GTR and I eventually got it to self calibrate to a stable idle although when I go to turn off the ignition, the engine continues to run for another ~10-15 seconds (stalls itself) and the dashboard lights remain permanently on. The only way I can turn the ignition off is to disconnect the battery. If I remove the Power FC and re install the stock ECU everything is fine and the car's ignition turns off like normal. Anyone have any experience with this problem or know a possible fix? Cheers, Nick.

Hey all, So I've been experiencing an intermittent misfire with my gtr r32, at Idle its not running on all cylinders. At some times it runs flawlessly. So my first thought was to check ignition, and to change out the plugs, as they haven't been done in a while. As I took out all the plugs, each of them was covered in oil, on the threaded bit only. The porcelain, and the electrode were clean and dry. So, my question is: what could be causing a leak down in the plug wells? Normally, I'd think of valve cover gasket, but it seemed dry and sits higher than the plug wells down in the valley. I checked everywhere on the net for some kind of replacement part seal or gasket, or tube that would fit in or around the spark plug well, but it seems its non existent? Also, I performed a resistance test on the coils which all read about 1.2 ohms, this is outside of nissans required spec (0.6-0.9ohms), does this mean they're on their way out? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

G'day, I have an auto R33 GTST Series 2 which got broken into a while back and they completely buggered the igniton barrel and sleeve. I want to replace it but can only seem to find the manual barrels and sleeves available. I heard there was an extra cable on the auto barrel that effects how it is put back together/fits. Is this the case or would a manual one suffice? Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Dan

in need of some help... i was tapping into the two wires that go the the little light around the barrel and i had bumped the two together coursing it to arc out... since then my light dose not work after i have changed the bulb and checked all the fuses and there was none that where blown, where do these two wires go as i was wondering if there is a fuse down the line or dose it go to a relay i am now dumb founded and at ends with it frustrated and ready to burn it, iv tried to track the wires but loose the after about 4' coz it goes into the big loom with all the ignition wires any help will be a advantage P.S reason i was tapping into them was coz i was steeling the power to run my led floor lights as the light that gos around the barrel times out once the doors are shut

Hi there I've currently have Error 21 (ignition signal circuit). I've also have a misfire happening only at low RPM. It will stall out if you accelerate approx 50%, if you go 75% it will drop the revs and almost stall then shoot up, but accelerate slowly it will go just as normal (these are all from stand still and rolling slowly) Firstly the car is R34 GT-T manual running stock ecu Injectors Turbo Throttle body with TCS still Aftermarket Greddy intake Front Mount intercooler Splitfire Coilpacks I've installed the splitfire coilpacks last week (brand new) along with spark plugs gapped at 0.8. I checked the coilpack loom for constant ground + 12v with the ign on and tested trigger signal for continuity from the ecu to the coilpack loom (so those have all passed) I've heard people say replace the loom but idk if thats going to resolve it for me Injectors were cleaned and flow tested about a month ago I've heard CAS could be a problem, I assumed mine was fine and wasn't going to be and issue. But I bought another one and it was still the same issue. Then borrowed someone's with a working one and still same issue Hope someone has some knowledge

Hi all, I was a member about 6 years ago and now I got myself a fresh import gtst so I'm back in the game. Just received my 32 off the boat and was so excited to have another 32 in my life but... my joy was short lived. After a initial drive, i noticed the car was losing power at random points and when i put the foot down it suddenly goes again and loses power again. This was the first problem. second is when I had to stop behind another vehicle, at low rpm even with my foot down on the clutch, the car shut down completely so I had to quickly restart it. I initially drove home and after the first 10 mins of problems, it behaved OK even in the evening when I took it out again and gave it a good run (That's what I thought it needed after being stationary fir a while) This morning, I gave my new baby a wash and a wax and started the car to warm it up and went inside the house, 5 mins later I went out again because it was too quiet, but to my surprise and horror, the car shut down by itself.... I attempted to start it and it did, for about 5 seconds and RPM dropped and died. this repeated about 3 times before I left it alone for about 10 mins before attempting it again. 10 mins later it started after I put my foot down and it somehow managed to stay alive. I went for a drive and just around the corner when I stopped at an intersection, it died again. My first skyline had a similar issue, from memory it was the Air Flow Meter. I was reading the posts and found some similar cases but wanted your inputs in diagnosing what it could be. The car is a 1993 R32 GTST done 67km Japanese auction grade 4. its got a ARC super induction box, aftermarket intercooler, and a non vent to air bov. My first guess is either the AFM or the TPS or coilpack. since it sometimes takes a bit of crank to start her up. Please let me know what you think.

R33 Ignition Switch Issues Hi All, I had a weird issue appear tonight while I was driving - All of a sudden the accessory power cut out, no radio, windscreen wipers, mirrors etc. Turn the car off and back on and it would be fine. We worked out that if you turn the key a fraction then all accessory power would turn back on. Turn it one direction a fraction and everything would cut out again. My first thought was that there is an issue with the ignition barrel but I thought I would ask on here first. Has anyone had a similar problem before? I've seen cases where the car would turn off completely but not the accessory power only. If the issue is the ignition barrel what would my options be? Change ALL locks out for new ones including the ignition barrel, doors and boot - if so is it very hard to do? Change the barrel and get it keyed for my current one (if that's even possible???) Thanks in advance!

Help with botched R32 - R34 coil pack conversion Hey guys, hoping to get some good advice...I am in the process of converting a poorly done r34 coil pack conversion on my 1990 r32 GTR back to the OEM r32 using the transistor ignition unit. I have already replaced the spark plugs and coil packs with brand new r32 Splitfires. The previous owner that did the conversion did a really crappy job and when I was removing the the old loom from the harness at the back of the engine, a bunch of wires just fell out of the harness, oh and also saw that the grounding wire was just floating around in there. Any help would be awesome!

I Have an R34 GT N/A and I rebuilt it and converted the working engine With: -CP Neo forged pistons -Manley Rods -Garret Gt3071r DDB Turbo -Series 2 stock fuel rail and injectors -Series 2 exhaust manifold -SplitFire Neo coils - New iridium NGK Plugs -255 Walbro Fuel Pump -Freddy Forward Facing intake -Stock GTT R34 NEO Turbo ECU -Many Many more.... After my conversion build with all new parts, i primed it and started on the first Crank. CURRENT STATUS: -Crank and starts instantly every single time and runs only when applying throttle THE PROBLEMS - Sounds great however it if you do not apply throttle and leave her idle, she is struggle to breathe and stutters and will die - Jumps up and down the rev range by her self - Cannot find a decent idle and when she does its not for long - After reeving and she goes back down she dies - Sometimes when reeving she break up on her own SOLUTIONS/TROUBLE SHOOTING - TPS sensor needed to be adjusted to get the right Ohms. After we fixed it it seemed to be more consistent when reeving and staying and holding at an RPM's and slightly better idling. - Idle air Controller, adjusted the screw and tried over 10 positions, although it actually really helped idling it still did not cure the dying at idle problem and finding a good idle problem. NEXT STEP (tomorrow) Take a look at the base/ignition timing with a timing light to the notches on the crank pulley and adjust it with the CAS sensor? DOES ANYONE HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH IGNITION TIMING? HOW DO I DO IT PROPERLY? WHAT DO THE NOTCHES INDICATE? WHAT NOTCH DO I WANT TO BE AT? ANY ADVICE IS GREATLY APPRECIATED

Ignition Timing for RB25DET Manual with Auto ECU I have a 1996 ECR33 GTS25T RB25DET which was a factory automatic. It has been converted to a manual but still has the auto ECU. The previous owner had apparently removed the CAS to supposedly check the cambelt, then installed it centre. Now my question is for you guys, is what is the actual base timing degree to set ? I have read that is supposed to be 10*,15*,20* for an auto ? So what is the actual base ignition timing degree value to set for an auto ECU or is the same as the manual ECU ? Thanks in advance

Hi, I have 2 ignitors for a series 1 r33. $90.00 each + freight Also have a set of coils including mounting bracket and wiring harness. $140.00 + freight Please negotiate if you feel you would like one of these items. Please contact me on 0420 973 466 or by email. Cheers Jamie

Hi All, Got a few parts taking up space in the shed that id like to move on to a new home as per below: Parts available for pickup Bathurst, or can post at buyers cost Contact Dylan via PM R32 OEM Coils $50 One has slightly damaged boot Two sets of 6 coils available Ignition Coil $100 Two available Wiring Harness $30 (assumed working condition, removed from donor engine) Coil Pack Cover $50 Coilpack Mount $0 w/ other sale Air Con Compressor + Lines + Engine Mount (assumed working condition, removed from donor engine)

Nissan Skyline R32 GTR RB26DETT AFM Air Flow Sensor 22680 05U00 x 2 $250 ea Control Arm new been stored away for a very long time LH side This is a brand new item Never Used still in original Nissan Plastic it was brought and left in storage for 10 Years plus Part Number: 54525-86L00 Price:$200 Nissan Skyline R32 Igniter Module $220 Located Melbourne Inbox me if interested Can post Australia wide at buyer’s expense

M35 VQ25DET Ignition Coil packs Hi guys I have a couple of coil packs left over from when I upgraded mine. + 2 x ignition coil packs + Perfect working condition + Approx 65k on them $50 each O.N.O + postage Payment + Bank deposit + Cash on pick up Postage + $10 via Auspost express satchel + Pick up

OK so turbod my r34 Rb25de neo car is half tuned as turbo blew and spent all my money on a new one haha OK so I'm not happy with the knock levels bad timing set 15btdc have set all timing in map to low but so bloody hard trying to get power without knock the load timing is hurting my brain haha most of my map I set to 18 load and rpm and upd injectors Correction from 1000 to 1400 barley any knock but just all feels crap so was wondering if anyone had a pic of there maps I can copy just for a base start for rb25+t 5-10psi and maybe injector map thanks people R33 5speed gearbox conversion R33 rebuilt turbo R33 turbo manifold Gtt injectors R32gtst4det fuel pump Power FC ecu and controller Big front mount cooler Turbo smart bleed valve New 3"pipe decat and r32 custom dump R34na 02sensor R34 na pink label afm ..