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Hi all, I am running an RB25DET Neo in my R32 and using the R34 power steering pump and reservoir. I have added a power steering cooler into the low pressure return line as can be seen in the pictures but apart from that it is exactly the same as factory. The problem i am having is that i think i have a huige airlock in the system. My power steering pump is making some terrible noises and my mechanic mate said that it is trying to pump air through the system and tats wy it sounds like that. I am inclined to believe him as i had the whole power steering system apart when i took the engine out and it had absolutely no power steering fluid left in it when i put it all back together, so it seems i had perfect conditions to create and airlock in the system. Many tutorials say to jack the car up, pour the P/S fluid in the reservoir and then turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and just let the system bleed itself and work the air out, but this is not working for me at all. Even with the wheels in the air there is resistance when trying to turn the steering wheel. And obviously it is even harder with the wheels on the ground. With the wheels in the air i have turned it lock to lock probably 200 times and it seems to make no difference at all to how it behaves. My mate said that there could be a bleed nipple or something similar on the power steering rack itself that i can use to bleed the system but from doing a little searching nobody has ever made mention of a bleed point on the power steering rack itself. The only theory that i have at the moment is that it is my power steering cooler causing the airlock. I will get some photos tomorrow of how i have it set up, but basically i have it upside down in the front bar (ie, the power steering lines run up to it to connect to the barbs rather than down to it) Any help ideas would be greatly appreciated as i am really a bit stumped at the moment. I don't want to have to drive it round to work the air out as it is making some truly terrible sounds at any revs haha :|

Hey guys, just installed an impul 300k dash cluster in place of the stock one. First thing i found that the plugs don't match with the impul cluster so i had to move a few of the pins in order for it to operate properly. Now the problem i'm having is that the speedo will read double and then sometimes will revert to reading normal..? Can anyone shed some light on this issue. Also i'm not getting full time power steering as i had before??

Hey gurus. I have a bit of an issue.. s1 R33 Gts25t. Stock RB25DET . Apparently has : a hypergear turbo, EBay 50mms external gate with a screamer , boost controller, fuel pressure regulator, 3" exhaust and a big fmic and a forward facing plenum. Now the issue is it's running really rich and fuel economy is completely stuffed. The bov has been removed and the pipes been routed to the back of the intake manifold. I have changed my Ecu and maf, and it's still the same. I can unplug my tps and the car drives and.Runs normal, but if I unplug the maf the car stalls. Also if i squeeze the bov hose closed the car stalls... and honestly I'm lost as to where to look now. Any help would be awesome thanks.

Sorry to start a new thread but from what I can find is evey1 elses issues seem to vary... R33 running RB30/25 combo, z32 afm, chipped ecu, bosch pump, Twin turbos, Greddy EBC, Built manualised auto box. So as it goes.. drove car home from gearbox shop (after new box fitment) parked in driveway (car drove beautifully and was pretty much nursed home), came out next morning to check on dash wiring as cluster is not working, not knowing the the fuel pump switch is on the dash, long story short crossed fuel pump wiring as it was dodgy as shit (EEk), found the blown fuse replaced and re-assembled went to start it and the following really hesitant in starting needs a bit of throttle to coax it into running then idles ok but wants to die every 30secs if not given a squirt on idle, wont boost under load but will rev freely on a single squirt but if pumped to rev up will cough and splutter. Under load wont boost can hold the throttle open 1/10th and seems to go ok but the second it goes down further dies out and feels like its on 2 cylinders but if accelerator pumped under load seems to want to go a little better but don't want to push it to detonation as still coughs and farts!!! So this resulted in the following New spitfire coils New plugs (0.8mm gapped) replacement (tested ok) ignition module New z32 afm (and computer reset will stall when afm unplugged) Pressure reg reading steady @ 45psi Tried a known good Ecu (worse result and doesn't want to idle at all...) Replaced CAS Checked timing hasn't slipped (from top view seems ok, wound the motor over a good 8 times to see that marks lined up (didn't want to pull balancer to get cover off so viewed from top cam marks) Hooked up Ecu talk software and no faults and read outs seem ok, pic attached of car on idle. I'm desperate for an answer! About ready for it to go to the shop... Was thinking Racesolutions as im in the Penrith NSW area?