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Hi guys, As per my sig.. stuff for sale thats lying around in my car or around the house.. let me know if u want pics. Will post at buyers expense. Tyres - 19" Toyo Proxes - 90% tread - $400 or make an offer! Turbo dump pipe taken from S2 C34 - make an offer! Factory side mount intercooler from S2 C34 - $80 (same as an R34 GTT smic. Bigger and deeper than R33) Knock sensor from RB25DET - $100 delivered. Airbox from S2 C34 - $100 Contact via PM or SMS/call O4328O8254 Cheers, Karl

Howto - Install Gizzmo Klite knock sensor on an R32 GTR Since these kits are only ~$300 on ebay (i used seller "globalautoco"), I thought i'd give it a go. Required; K-Lite kit including knock sensor M8 x 50mm bolt (Bunnings has a set of 4 high tensiles for ~$5). Soldering iron, multimeter Usual socket set, torque wrench etc 1. Remove/move aside the rear part of the wheel arch lining from drivers side front wheel well 2. Push plug end of sensor lead into the drivers side foot well from the engine bay 3. Remove the interior trim under the steering column. Find a +12v source that is one when the engine is on (IGN) connect the red to that via an inline fuse and connect the green wire to earth 4. Connect sensor to gauge 5. Tie all the wiring away nicely 6. Remove the battery, plenum intake piping, dipstick etc to get some room to move under the plenum 7. Find the front factory knock sensor (underneath and to the left of the 2nd cylinder plenum runner, on the top of the block just below the head to block join. Remove the attaching bolt 8. Thread the 50mm bolt through the new sensor, then the factory sensor, then bolt it back onto the block. Torque to ~20Nm. The factory bolt has a 30mm shank, and the new sensor is 20mm high, hence the 50mm bolt. I used a spring washer 9. Re-install everything and mount the gauge 10. Start the car and bring car up to temp with normal driving 11. Find somewhere you can safely run the car at 3/4 throttle in 3rd or 4th gear. Dyno would be best 12. Initiate the calibration sequence by holding finger on the gauge directly under ZMO of the Gizzmo print for 3 seconds 13. Release finger and gizzmo will count down 6 seconds (which it shows on the LEDs, indicating its about to enter calibration mode) 14. Run engine at 3/4 load in 3rd or 4th gear from the start of the power band 15. Hold in this state as long as possible until klite has finished analysing. The two analysing steps are; 1. Search for your engine's noise profile. It displays a sequence of red leds then green leds as it analyses from high to low frequency and will stop the sequence once it has found it. 2. Sensitivity analysis during which the LEDs will very quickly flash through green to red. Once these steps are completed the klite will flash the 1 or 2 LEDs indicative of the set frequency, which confirms it has been set. If it fails to setup, it will revert back to the original settings and flash those settings for an extended period. 16. Drive. klite will climb as you come on power, if it detects knock it will flick up erratically. You can retrieve the peak reading by touching the klite for under 2 seconds

Error code 34 - knock sensor. A mate of mines skyline is throwing error code 34, he's disconnected the loom and made his own 470ohm resistor one and is using that, has continuity so the cables aren't broken and is still throwing the code. Any ideas?

Hi there, I am new user and hoping you guys can help. I have recently imported a Skyline V35 GT250 (that uses engine VQ25DD) and have had the engine light on. Diagnostic test showed that knock sensor was playing up. I have bought a new Sensor from Nissan and took it the mechanic. The mechanic opened up the the engine to discover that the wire harness for Knock Sensor has been cut. Mechanic is confused about what to do with this. I have rung Nissan and they said you have to buy whole harness loom. My question to you experts is how to I fix this issue? Thanks

Hey fellas. Since I bought my HCR32 it has ran pretty well although it runs rich and sucks down fuel. I checked the codes and it throws a code 34, knock sensor and a code 21, ignition signal. I heard that when code 34 is thrown the ECU will retard timing and dump in fuel. I went ahead and bypassed the knock sensors for diagnosis purposes. I went down to the ECU and soldered 1/4 watt 1M ohm resistor on each of the two wires for the two knock sensors, and grounded the other ends to the chassis. After doing so, I went and test drove the car and I could feel a slight hesitation around 5-6k rpm or so, which it didn't do before. It feels like it maybe is slightly slower after said hesitation, perhaps the ECU pulling timing. However, it didn't do this prior to me bypassing the knock sensors. Got back home, checked the codes, and code 34 once again showed. If I bypassed the sensors with the resistors I would think it's not possible to throw that code. My question is, is the hesitation pulling timing, and it actually wasn't pulling timing before the bypass like I thought it was? Or could it have been pinging that I felt? I'm not sure exactly what pinging feels like as I've never experienced it. Perhaps my rich/awful mpg issue is something else and this was all a waste of time. Let me know what you guys think, thanks