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Should I retard timing? Specs Rb20 Rb25 turbo running 12psi FMIC Turbo back. Walbro 255 car runs fine just don't know if there's something I should do to protect it a little more before getting a proper tune. Only thing it does different from stock is after I've given it a bit of juice, while on deceleration if I tap the throttle it'll BANG!! But that's it. Any feedback would be sweet. Cheers.

Hi All, New to SAU. Excuse my limited knowledge for future reference. I recently purchased a N/A r33 S1.5 (s2 management) with intentions to go down the forced induction path. I purchased a Rb25det s1 engine,loom and ecu. I installed the engine trouble free but had a few electrical bugs, using the s1 management I can not get injector or coil pulse. I've tried multiple CAS with no luck and have narrowed it down to no power to the Ecu. I then tried using the N/A s2 ecu,loom and plenum with all n/a sensors. (Of course changing coil packs,tps and afm) The car started and idled fine but run like shit on boost. I changed to a S2t ecu,fuel pump and adjustable FPR The car run what I thought was perfect. After a small drive I've found it runs VERY rich @ idle and VERY lean on boost >4000rpm roughly It's like the Ecu is not recognising "boost" So this is where I am at now: S1.5 car S2det Ecu (only 1 relay next to ecu) S2 N/A loom S2 N/A afm S2 N/A plenum and sensors Det injectiors Adjustable FPR @ 30psi- I've noticed a lot of fluctuations in pressure- some days 10psi some days 35???? S2 coil packs S2 Tps and TB Walbro 225lph Boost T @10psi So to me I belive there are no ways the car can sense boost since I do not run a boost solenoid using n/a loom? The car will get up and go ok but feels to have no torque. It's just all noise. I come back off the track with a glowing turbo. The car will idle insanely rich to the point where the plugs fowl after 2 mins of idle @800rpm The car will run amazing and pull well sometimes but very moody on when. Also wondering if it's my fuel pressure fluctuating? Let me know any troubleshooting ideas anyway guys and girls! Look forward to joining the SAU community. Max.

Been away from the gym for almost 2 months due to illness prior to a 6 week holiday around Asia, and in those 6 weeks I put on a dirty 6kg bulk... sigh. My plan is to diet/train like this for 4-6 weeks, or more (depending on results), 5-6 x a week: Cardio consisting of Tabata's (high-intensity training) including light-weights. (I think its a lot more stimulating than straight up jogging or walking.) [*]Oztag once a week.. for lulz. [*]Dieting (not strict), just eating sensibly and routinely again - which is key. (The usual tuna, salad, brown rice, chicken etc. - no more banana nutella pancakes.. sadface.) [*]No pre/post workout supps or post protein shakes. (May sneak one in here and there during the day to replace a meal.) I think if I can keep this up for 4-6 weeks, I should be able to lose +6kg and drop the fat around mah behhhlllehh! (my belly). I don't think I'll get back into the heavy lifting/isolating excercises too soon, I think I will use this as an oppourtunity to see how far I can cut and try new things such as: Stretching - I've never been the most flexible guy due to my laziness in wanting to stretch. Now, I'm paying the concequences. I'm susceptible to cramps, I have rolled shoulders which then causes incorrect technique. Increased cardio/aerobic levels - I've always been into lifting heavy and getting big, so I will put that on the backburner and focus on increasing my cardio, stamina and strength levels. I'll put up my training regime after each sesh. Thoughts, comments, suggestions are welcome.

Hey, I'm finding that after an hour or so of driving on a motorway at a steady 100km/h, the fuel ratios start leaning out from where I set them when at normal operating temperature after driving for 10miles (14.7), all the way up to 16+. This is the same behaviour that happens if I leave the car and get back in it again after it being switched on which leads me to believe it has something to do with the crappy air temperature sensor that is on the standard car. I am running twin map sensors but with the standard nissan temp sensor which I think I'm going to be changing. I'll write this up like I did with my AAC post. Is this behaviour happening because of heat soak or is it possible that there is something else happening? i.e. fuel temperature rising? I don't have a fuel temp sensor and it's not showing an option for specifying values in datalogit. I am thinking it is heat soak because I have a single turbo conversion with no turbo blanket.. yet, in combination with the crappy sensor. Any thoughts?

R34 GTR fuel delivery issue Hi Guys, Got a bit of an issue with the fuel delivery on my car and was wondering if you can help me out... Just a quick background on the car: - Brand new 1000cc xspurt injectors with resistor pack removed - Brand new walbro 460lph e85 fuel pump with relay - Apexi powerfc - 2860-5 turbos - titanium turbo back exhaust - ARC intake (stock afms) - manual boost controller - set to 18psi I got my car tuned today only to find out the car was only able to make 290awkw on e85 @18psi safely. I was aiming for 350-380awkw however my tuner said the car struggled to go above 290 due to the car leaning out. Apparently he had to trick the ecu into thinking the injectors were only 550cc in order to get the car running right, where as when they were set to 1000 it would just run lean. He was reluctant to up the boost for obvious reasons. Im taking the car back to one of the boys who used to work at racepace to do a check on Monday (he was the one who installed all the parts for me), however this is something ill definitely be losing sleep over during the weekend. Just wondering what everyones opinion on the issue would be? Only thing i could think of was that the injectors dont like the ecu or the fuel filter in the engine bay is dirt.

So the other day I took my 34 gtt to work, it’s running a 3076 6 boost power F.C. and z32 etc etc, got to work fine which was a 8 mile basic commute with the last mile a poor road surface anyway came out of work to drive home and noticed a miss or a bit lumpy, looked down at the wideband and it’s running 18 or so to 1. So very lean. From idle to cruise right through its lean I went into the power commander fuel adjustment and dumped the fuel in up to 1.3 to get it running smoothly and back to about 15:1 and limped the car home so first investigation was car seemed low on fuel so chucked a can in, in case it was to low, also inspected some hoses and noticed the pipe on my z32 afm to turbo was not sealed perfect, it wasn’t off much but I squared it up and tightened it anyway, started the car and it seemed spot on so assumed it was fixed, 15 minute test drive and all was fine so put the car back in the garage Went to take it a run tonight and reversed it out of the garage and it’s lean again, at idle and through revs do just put it back in the garage, any pointers ? its a fairly recent top mount turbo install and map, 300zx fuel filter and a new Walbro was fitted at map time 500-700 mile ago just. Injectors are r35 gtr and also low miles. Voltage still regulates for pump so would like that hard wired, I want to swap a different z32 in too just to rule it out but any other ideas ?