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Found 22 results

  1. Hey Ladies and Gentleman! Been doing this for a little while on facebook/word of mouth, but thought I’s post up here too. I can modify OEM 34 tail lights into Nismo spec or an R35 inspired halo design. For the new players, if you’re after the iconic Nismo tail lights but don’t want to spend $3000 on a second hand set, then my Custom Nismo-like tail lights are a perfect well priced answer. I offer a Nismo conversion to your OEM set of lights that includes; -Restoration of housings -Custom built LED panels -Plug and play ability into OEM harness -Lens restoration of 20+years of minor scratches and fading These are practically indistinguishable from genuine Nismo’s, and at $590 (excluding shipping) come in at under a 1/3 of the price of genuine Nismo’s. For those who want something a bit extra, I also offer a R35 Halo conversion. These still retain the Nismo LED pattern for the brake lights, but uses diffusion rings to create a halo ring for parker lights. These come in at $790 (excluding shipping) to modify your OEM set. And as per our Nismo conversion, housings and lenses undergo a restoration and are fully plug and play. We also offer an LED bootlight conversion, priced at $139 (excluding shipping) to compliment our Nismo and R35 Halo conversions. A better deal can be had for packaging them together, just ask! Pm for any questions (text zero424 490 187, will reply much quicker) and more info ?? Stay safe everyone! sorry the photos are all muddled up!!
  2. I have been converting my 32 to as many LED globes as will fit. I purchased some amber LEDs for the rear indicators (BA15S, 1156), but they caused to indicators to rapid flash (like when a globe somewhere is blown). I then purchased some advertised as CANBUS-compatible, but they also rapid flash. Is there a way to confirm if the LED is in fact CANBUS-compatible (construction, watts, multimeter, etc)?
  3. C34 LED Tail Lights Installed Ordered back in December and they finally got installed last week RizeJapan one off LED tail lights LED on the left, Standard on the right and a short youtube video to show all the different blinker/hazard patterns
  4. Hey guys, So I was cleaning my R34 GTR the other day and thought I'd do a check on all the lights and discovered that the rear registration light had one blown bulb. I think they're stock halogen ones and I've never bothered to check them as I rarely drive this at night. So replacing them is a must but this begs the question should I leave them stockish halogen yellow or upgrade to LED bright white? I front lights are LED globes so are relatively brighter white (not a fan of HIDs) so rear LEDs would suit but I've seen a few cars with them on and it looks like a midnight disco ball which attracts a lot of attention and looks a bit flashy then again the stock lights on cars like the Mercs have LEDs on the rear but they look nice and more tame. What do you guys think and what have you done on yours? Photos would be great. Cheers, Alex
  5. I'll give you guys the quick run down. But actually figuring it out is up to your own abilities. I assume if you own a gtr, you should know how to do some sort of maintenance, disassembly, or repair. List of items: Solder Station 3mm 5000 - 20,000 mCD LED at 30 degree - 45 degree focus beam (Green, orange, red, white, cool white) Know your LED specs! Forward Voltage, Forward Current, Supply Voltage Any of these LEDS are good: http://www.mouser.com/.../Standard-LEDs.../_/N-b1bc8... Next is your resistor. Below is a resistor calculator https://www.digikey.com/.../conversion-calculator-led... For instance, I used a 3.2v LED, 20mA, and we know that cars use 12v. So I needed a ~440 Ohms resistor .176 watt. It's safe to go with 500mW. The best resistors are metal film. They reduce noise (LED Flicker), better tolerances for voltage spikes, and higher heat handling. These are the resistors I used. REMEMBER TO USE YOUR RESISTOR CALCULATOR!! Good choices here (470 ohm 500mW):http://www.mouser.com/ProductD.../Vishay/CMF55470R00FKR6/... On each specific switch, as shown in the video here on this forum, there are rubber 'bulb condoms' that sit inside the switch. They're ass, take em, shit on them, throw them away. Remove the switches from your facia after you've taken it out. You'll have to unscrew them. Makes it easier, and there is a reason for this. Hide your empty facia somewhere. You won't need it for now. Plug your removed switches into your harnesses. Turn on your running lights. Get your red or some colored paint pen. Take a spare LED that's been wired with your resistor, and touch negative or positive to your contacts and do some guess work on the polarity. Don't short your LED out unsure emoticon Once you've found the correct polarity direct, mark your hot wire with your pen After you got the marks, I mean it's basic soldering. Red to Pos terminal, Black to negative terminal. It'll take some fenaggling to get the LED into the hole, but you'll just have to be patient. Use some epoxy or RTV to glue the led in place. This is to hold the LED in the correct position, or it'll bounce all over the place because it ain't got a condom. For the window switch. It's just clipped into the door panel. Pry it out gently. It's difficult to find the location of the clips so you don't break them. Took me a bit. There will be a yellow cover on the back of the main window switches. Take mini screw drivers and pry off the clips. Once you get it, you'll see a circuit board with a T3 socket. I decided to just solder in an led (after testing my polarity using the same method above). Take down with epoxy and good to go. Before your decide to snap everything back together and start driving, test out your switches to make sure they even work. Also, you can test the illumination. If you're feeling froggy, this is the perfect time to completely disassemble your switches and clean / lubricate them. I got rid of some electrical gremlins when I did this. I also flowed solder on the circuit board. Standard LEDs - Through Hole | Mouser Standard LEDs - Through Hole are available at Mouser Electronics. Mouser offers inventory, pricing, & datasheets for Standard LEDs - Through Hole. MOUSER.COM
  6. in need of some help... i was tapping into the two wires that go the the little light around the barrel and i had bumped the two together coursing it to arc out... since then my light dose not work after i have changed the bulb and checked all the fuses and there was none that where blown, where do these two wires go as i was wondering if there is a fuse down the line or dose it go to a relay i am now dumb founded and at ends with it frustrated and ready to burn it, iv tried to track the wires but loose the after about 4' coz it goes into the big loom with all the ignition wires any help will be a advantage P.S reason i was tapping into them was coz i was steeling the power to run my led floor lights as the light that gos around the barrel times out once the doors are shut
  7. Hi everyone. My name is Jesse and im the owner of LED86.com.au I hope I'm not going against any rules to this forum but I had a quick look and couldnt see much on sellers. If the post is removed I'll get in contact with an admin. Anyway I've been operating for a couple of years now and mainly been focusing on 86/BRZ lighting accessories. Since things have gone well I have decided to start offering other products that my suppliers stock. The one which might inter you guys is the Valenti R35 GT-R full LED tail lights. If you're not familiar with Valenti they are a company in Japan that has been around for a while now and become pretty big with the 86/BRZ lighting. Recently they released their LED tail lights for the Nissan R35 so I started to spread the word and found this forum. My Valenti products are direct from Valenti in Japan and genuine. I will soon be adding GT-R side indicators to the site and Valenti are also developing a headlight for the GT-R too. Hopefully the images show up below. If you have any questions you can add me on facebook "led eightsix" or email me on <script cf-hash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script> You can also find the GT-R section on the site here http://led86.com.au/49-r35-gtr Hopefully the video works too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5Opj38sV4k&list=UUw9xNwZ_rxXK-syWbTXt2PA
  8. Car is gone so time to clean out all the parts. Prices negotiable and postage is at buyers expense from QLD. Contact via PM for more pics/info. GTT Nistune package $550 – everything you need to get the most out of your bolt on mods. Never got around to installing this in my car, but all parts were purchased in working order. R34GTT Manual ECU Type 4 Nistune board and cable Turbotech manual boost tee Blitz 52mm mechanical boost gauge and cup https://www.dropbox.com/s/zltyv6tx49ptvz6/2015-03-30%2020.48.21.jpg?dl=0 R34 plastic eyelids $80 – in sonic silver. Slight bend in one as per picture, does not affect ‘performance’. Affix with double sided tape. https://www.dropbox.com/s/tbx9o9c0vok64k7/2015-03-28%2015.22.57.jpg?dl=0 R34 coupe front and rear standard bumper $120 for both – in sonic silver. Front bar is off a GT so no SMIC vent. Both in good condition with a few scratches from being in storage https://www.dropbox.com/s/lwre91y656wf3qr/2015-03-28%2015.21.30.jpg?dl=0 R34 sub box $50 - fibreglass, moulded to fit corner of the boot. Small hole as per picture. sold pending R34 coupe LED Tail lights $150 – same as these. All leds working when last fitted. Plug and play http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/99-02-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R34-GTR-LED-Tail-lights-GTR-GTT-RB-/221143857491?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item337d337953 R34 GTT stock wheels $150 – gutter rash on most of the wheels. Average rubber. R34 GTT stock coilovers $50 – cracked dust boots, came out of car with <100thousand k’s and were working fine R34 GTT stock front indicators and side repeaters $80 https://www.dropbox.com/s/du7i20nmdwyb7zo/2015-03-28%2015.23.28.jpg?dl=0
  9. Hey All, looking to change my dash lights with blue multi directional LEDs in my R34 GTT. Anyone that has done this switch where did you get your LEDs from and how do you like them?
  10. Ok, I searched on here, didn't see much at all tbh. I just changed over the sealed beam headlight I had on my bike to an LED unit [had to buy a new lens as well, but nothing wrong with my old lens] and the difference was very impressive..so thought I might do the same for the Skyline. I also had a look on ebay and there were so many LED headlight 'globes' it was overwhelming. Most promise a gazillion watts/lumens/K but all look pretty much the same - admittedly some have little fans, others have heatsinks on the arse end, some have rats tail H4 connections, others the spade H4 straight off the back...………..but I have no idea if these changes are better or worse. And it looks like you can get a pair of LED's for around $30 [and certainly under $50] delivered, so cheap really. I am still using normal halogen bulbs, with the yellowish, not so bright light and so thought I'd try an 'upgrade'. I know others have used 'white light' globes from the likes of Phillips etc that cost more than they are worth and I'm not that keen to go down that path anyway. I also bought a HID kit years ago...and then never ever fitted it, its still brand new in the box [probably need to sell I guess]. BTW on the operating temp, there was a great test done by a guy on a motorcycle forum where he tested a normal globe, a Halogen globe, and an LED [with little fan] setup using an infrared temp gun and the LED came out way cooler all round. That has to be a good thing. And finally { I have no idea on this] is it legal?? I can't see why not if they are a direct replacement, offer the same or better light, and operate much cooler than halogens anyway. So does anyone have any experience at LEDs on a vehicle? What did you end up with? And was it a better light?
  11. R33 S2 Angel Eyes Fog Lights LED Basically replacing the series 2 clear fog lights located on the front bar with led angel eye projector fog lights. They will sit in place of the original glass lens sitting on a custom acrylic bracket to hold it in place and present a visually pleasing and professional look also keeping it weatherproof and maintaining the circular style. NOTE: Will be posting more pics later just a rough idea
  12. brightening headlights after reading GRKGTR's build i didnt want to clog his thread regarding LED headlights so, I thought id ask here what has been done to improve the lighting on our old nissans. i know for sure mine are horrible in my s13. especially doing test hits on old country roads
  13. Hey guys, recently got my R33 S1 headlights retrofitted with quad projector headlights complete with white LED ring angel eyes and red demon eyes. I bought a used set of headlights with yellowing lenses for cheap and sent them up to Sydney to be modified by That Headlight Guy. Needless to say, I was very impressed by his work and the results are amazing. He does work on all types and makes of headlights and even headlights that don't come standard with projectors! Very friendly guy to work with, his attention to detail is especially helpful, he will keep you updated throughout the build process and will even offer headlight lens restorations! 5 stars and will recommend to anyone wanting to do any sort of modification and/or restoration to their headlights! Here's his page: https://www.facebook.com/thatheadlightguy/
  14. I'll give you guys the quick run down. But actually figuring it out is up to your own abilities. I assume if you own a gtr, you should know how to do some sort of maintenance, disassembly, or repair. List of items: Solder Station 3mm 5000 - 20,000 mCD LED at 30 degree - 45 degree focus beam (Green, orange, red, white, cool white) Know your LED specs! Forward Voltage, Forward Current, Supply Voltage Any of these LEDS are good: http://www.mouser.com/.../Standard-LEDs.../_/N-b1bc8... Next is your resistor. Below is a resistor calculator https://www.digikey.com/.../conversion-calculator-led... For instance, I used a 3.2v LED, 20mA, and we know that cars use 12v. So I needed a ~440 Ohms resistor .176 watt. It's safe to go with 500mW. The best resistors are metal film. They reduce noise (LED Flicker), better tolerances for voltage spikes, and higher heat handling. These are the resistors I used. REMEMBER TO USE YOUR RESISTOR CALCULATOR!! Good choices here (470 ohm 500mW):http://www.mouser.com/ProductD.../Vishay/CMF55470R00FKR6/... On each specific switch, as shown in the video here on this forum, there are rubber 'bulb condoms' that sit inside the switch. They're ass, take em, shit on them, throw them away. Remove the switches from your facia after you've taken it out. You'll have to unscrew them. Makes it easier, and there is a reason for this. Hide your empty facia somewhere. You won't need it for now. Plug your removed switches into your harnesses. Turn on your running lights. Get your red or some colored paint pen. Take a spare LED that's been wired with your resistor, and touch negative or positive to your contacts and do some guess work on the polarity. Don't short your LED out unsure emoticon Once you've found the correct polarity direct, mark your hot wire with your pen After you got the marks, I mean it's basic soldering. Red to Pos terminal, Black to negative terminal. It'll take some fenaggling to get the LED into the hole, but you'll just have to be patient. Use some epoxy or RTV to glue the led in place. This is to hold the LED in the correct position, or it'll bounce all over the place because it ain't got a condom. For the window switch. It's just clipped into the door panel. Pry it out gently. It's difficult to find the location of the clips so you don't break them. Took me a bit. There will be a yellow cover on the back of the main window switches. Take mini screw drivers and pry off the clips. Once you get it, you'll see a circuit board with a T3 socket. I decided to just solder in an led (after testing my polarity using the same method above). Take down with epoxy and good to go. Before your decide to snap everything back together and start driving, test out your switches to make sure they even work. Also, you can test the illumination. If you're feeling froggy, this is the perfect time to completely disassemble your switches and clean / lubricate them. I got rid of some electrical gremlins when I did this. I also flowed solder on the circuit board.
  15. Hi everyone Factory option for WC34 Stagea. Plug and play. Replace your old povvo bulb type high mount brake lamp. $5o including post anywhere in Oz. 0419 196543 Thanks
  16. G'day guys, Just throwing it out there if anyone would light customized headlights? I can split, clean the lenses inside and out. Polished and paint the surrounds any colour you want, install LED's etc. And can supply most suspension bushes and/or fit for wa guys as well (: compression bushes, control/camber arm bushes. (: lemme know if there's any interest. Have done a couple with/ for friends so though I'd see if its something people would want. cheers guys kohbz
  17. Clearing out some excess Stagea bits I have. Get rid of that unsightly orange and make you car look like this: The orange and yellow inside lenses have been removed from the blinkers to give a clean clear appearance, especially with the use of "stealth" or "chrome" bulbs. They have been opened & resealed (not by me) I have used them for years and they did not leak. NB. The images don't show it but there is a slight yellow tinge to the plastic lenses as most of these this age do. Inspections welcome Mascot NSW $75 for the set. Happy to post @ buyers cost call 0401 454 406 or PM More bits to come.. Thanks for watching
  18. M35 LED high beam retrofit Pretty happy with the M35 low beam. I just replaced the discharge lamps with some cheapies from eBay and they work a treat. So much so, that the high beam (H4 halogens) look pitiful. Has anyone replaced the low beam lamps with LED types? Which ones? I don't trust all the sellers on eBay to accurately quote the correct figures.
  19. JDMgirl90

    IMG_9805.JPG

    From the album: Sammy

    © Kellys photography

  20. I'm after some LED dash lights for my r34 gtt. Now I have the commonly used kit sold by Zero Point Electronics in blue, but basically I'm after a similar kit in PURPLE. I can't seem to find any purple LED replacement lights as of yet, so I'd really appreciate if someone could steer me in the right direction. Cheers
  21. I've looked around on the forums about LED interior lighting conversion. I got the jist of it all, and bought the LEDs I need. Then, I became addicted, and now I want to replace the lights in the hazard buttons, electric window switch buttons, and all those random little places. Does anyone know the package size needed for these replacements? (IE: T3, T5). What I found online so far is this: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/32293-hazard-light-switch-lamp.html But that post is dead as hell, and from years ago. Help would be appreciated! Thanks y'all.
  22. Hi everyone. Just wondering. has anyone attempted changing the tail lights on a 34 gtr. I have just got some LED ones and want to put them on myself but not sure if its hard work or not. dont want to start and then not be able to finish it. ha cheers
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