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Found 10 results

  1. Hey guys got a LINK G4 plug and play here for sale, only selling as I've gone Haltech ECU is used, however it functions as required. May as well be new for what it is. Comes in standard R32GTR case $ 1250 couriered to your door with tracking number This has been on my race car for approx 18months and has many many hours of tuning on it. My Rb26 with -5's + extras made 450kw, this tune is onboard and the Link is unlocked. PM me with queries... G4 Plug-In Key Features (where applicable) Up to 6D fuel and ignition mapping Precision closed loop cam control (four cam, independent control) Sequential fuel delivery Digital triggering, all OEM patterns Rotary - up to four rotors, fully sequentially staged injection and sequential ignition OEM idle hardware supported 5D boost control with three switchable tables Motorsport features - antilag, launch, flat shift Continuous barometric correction (on board) CAN port QuickTune - automated fuel tuning Individual cylinder correction USB tuning cable included Stats recording into on-board memory Gear compensations for spark, boost and fuel Real time selectable dual fuel, ignition and boost maps Sync and crank sensors can be a combination of Hall effect, variable reluctance or optical Boost control referenced to gear, speed or throttle position Up to 4MB internal logging memory Staged injection Firmware updates available online (linkecu.com) Knock with “windowing” via additional G4 KnockBlock Quick Tune Using PCLink, QuickTune is an interactive tuning tool that assists in time efficient fuel tuning. A graphical display of Target AFR (desired AFR) and Actual AFR (measured AFR) is provided. A dual pointer gauge allows the tuner to quickly see how close Actual AFR is to the Target AFR. QuickTune can be setup to operate over the entire fuel table or just over a particular area. QuickTune can be used in Manual or Automatic modes. In Manual mode, QuickTune guides you to cell centering and advises you when is a suitable time to make a fuel table adjustment. With the press of a key a calculated adjustment is made. Often only one or two adjustments are required to tune each cell. In Automatic mode QuickTune does all the adjustments for you. This leaves the tuner free to operate the Dyno or perform other tuning work such as making ignition or cam angle adjustments.
  2. New Link ECU Not sure what this does fit but may of use to some people:
  3. R34 25DET NEO dies map sensor reads high until lead is wiggled then will drive fine Is running a link g4+ and a 4bar map sensor, after awhile of driving the car will turn off, I have logged it and found that when it dies the map sensor gives a huge reading which I am guessing is incorrect and the car is flooding or shutting off to protect the engine. How do I go about finding the fault from what I can see the wires look fine
  4. For sale! Brand new link g4+ PnP ECU With airtemp sensor and XS loom. $2100 Brand new 1000cc Bosch injectors 14mm 3/4 length Come with plugs Set of 6 $600 Will do both for $2500 Located Brisbane
  5. for sale new never used link G4+ thunder, highest ecu in links range ..includes both wiring looms A,B and plugs C,D http://www.linkecu.com/products/wirein-ecus/g4-thunder-ecu/ used dash2 pro (links g4+) with all wiring new never used turbofast 8 channal egt amplifier includes plug and pins $5100ono will seperate, selling as i bought a motec m150 west sydney area pm or 0448890640
  6. Hi all, For sale is a brand new never used Link G4+ Thunder ECU. This is Link's top dog ECU which can run pretty much any engine you choose to attach it to. Knock, DBW, VCT/VVT-i/VTEC, Lambda, antilag, traction control, boost control this ECU does it all with ease. https://www.linkecu.com/products/wirein-ecus/g4-thunder/ See above link for more specs. Looking for $2600 and that includes superseal connectors and contact kit and will post anywhere in AUS at my expense.
  7. LINK ECU FOR R32/33/34 GTR AND GTS Hi Guys, I have a brand new Link G4+ Plug and Play ECU for Sale. New in box, Never installed. Details as per below from Link Website. Looking at $1800 shipped to anywhere in Australia. Please contact me via email [email protected] Free yourself from the constraints of the factory ECU. The Link G4+ GTRLink NGTR+ PlugIn fits the Nissan GTR R32-R34 & GTS R32-R33. The ECU PCB fits discretely inside the original factory enclosure. Installation of the GTRLink ECU is a breeze - no alteration of the factory wiring loom is required. A built-in connector (or pins in some models) provides additional inputs and outputs such as oil pressure inputs or anti-lag / logging switches. Factory features are supported - see Features for any exceptions. Also fits the R32-33 GTS. Includes Integrated 4 Bar MAP Sensor. Need more inputs and outputs? The XS Expansion Loom offers the ability to add additional inputs & outputs on our range of plug-in ECUs.
  8. Hi SAU, As the title states, need cable to connect my ECU to my laptop. It's a USB to CAN LTW (6 pin circular) type cable. Below is what I'm talking about I'm located in Casey area of VIC. Prefer local as we all know how the post is going right now. Need it asap. Will even pay just to borrow it for a few days if you have one but not for sale. Need it to programme new link CAN gauge. Cheers
  9. FOR SALE Link G4 gts/gtr plugin currently tuned for stock injectors $1000 $1000 ono Located in Melbourne
  10. Hello, this is definitely my favorite forum. I always manage to resolve my issues when I come here! However, I’m dealing with a problem I’m not sure how to address. I’m hoping to receive pointers or guide on my quest to solve this issue. Issue: On cold start, my swapped 180sx with an rb25det will crank and idle normally, but as soon as it starts warming up. There’s a subtle backfire, little pops if you will. At operating temperature, the idle begins to fluctuate up and down between 800-1200RPM. Eventually, only when fluctuating RPM it will drip my 150A breaker at the battery and the g4+ ecu will lose power and shut off. Or the ECU will shut off without dripping the 150A breaker and everything else stays on: radio, fuel pump, gauges, etc. Questions: 1. What may cause the ECU to turn off? 2. How to I measure voltage to the ECU? 3. Is it possible there is a short causing the current surge to drip the breaker and make the ecu behave erratic? 4. Anything I should check? Parts installed before problem began: • GTR R35 Coilpacks • Bosh donut knock sensors • PRP trigger kit • 270A alternator • LINK G4+ lambda CAN wideband sensor I did drive the car with all parts installed with one issue. The ECU had a wideband sensor overheated code, which I resolved by addding a 200uF 12V capacitor. Other than that, I didn’t deal with issues until this. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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