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Found 169 results

  1. WTB: M35 Highflow turbo My oil feed line has a hole in it somehow and the turbo needs to come off the remove it. While it's of,f I want to put a highflow on it as I only want to do this once. Don't have time for an exchange service as I need to car back on the road ASAP PM or message Brendon on 0402 seven zero two 102
  2. Vq25det turbo perfect for highflow Blow vq25det turbo ready for a highflow beat the wait time and have this bad boy all highflowed for when (and we all now it's only a matter of time) your turbo shits it self not that hat it matters now it's shagged but came off a low km car $400 Ono
  3. Sack87

    Brendons M35 build Thought I'd create a mini build thread on my progress with my first foray into Nissan wagon life and also a place to ask questions/path to follow. I bought the car with f**ked coil packs so I picked it up cheap off some Indian guy. Put a new set of coil packs in and all was sweet for the next 6 months . . . https://imageshack.com/i/pnV0vOWcj https://imageshack.com/i/pltD8QHij https://imageshack.com/i/popQVxMsj I noticed an oil leak from the passenger side that was slowly getting worse and traced it back to the oil feed line. Ah well no biggy, just an easy fix or so I thought! Having not worked on a VQ before, it wasn't until later on I discovered you can't get the line off without pulling the whole turbo Since the car wasn't far off 200k and the turbo had begun the Dyson whine song, I frantically searched for a new turbo. Scotty to the rescue with a Billet Intense he had spare that got to me in 4 days. In the mean time while the car was off the road I set about fabbing up a 3" bellmouth dump pipe. Then followed it up with a 3"-2.5" intake pipe. (Still need to weld on BOV return bung) And this weekend just gone I fabbed up a 3" catless exhaust system to finish it all off. I picked up 7psi of boost without touching a thing, so it's stuck on 21psi with standard injectors and pump. I've hit up Christian to see if it's possible to run the car safely at this level on 98 with his flash tune, otherwise I will probably put a hi-flow cat in to drop the boost a little. I've got a few other things in the works but all in due time!
  4. Selling a set of underbody braces to fit a M35 Stagea. $200 Painted black and attempted to test fit, but quickly r ealised that they don't fit the NA/RWD Stageas... oops! Also selling a pair of resonated test pipes for a VQ35DE. Brand new still in plastic, just decided to go another route. $150 Also-also selling some Lexani tyres that came off my current rims. Tread is at least 75%. $100 Also-also-also selling some 20" rims in another ad I've posted.
  5. I bought an NM35, read the Info thread, and made notes. Also added a few tidbits I found. UPDATE: Added more info from pages 1 to 9 of this thread Engine The V35 & M35 airboxes have the same part number. They are, Back of airbox 16526, front of airbox 16528, + filter required. The K&N filter that fits is 33-2031-2. Air filter is Ryco A360 (same as all skylines, 350Z Z33 Series 1, some commodores and many other cars) Air filter change interval: 20,000-30,000kms Spark plugs NI22401-5M016…..they are also $24.15 each OR NI22401-AQ816 (or Denso Iridiums Part #IKH22) (or Denso IKH22) Uses 5L of oil. Change interval is 5,000kms. Engine requires 4.8L to the H mark, 4.0L to the L mark Oil spec: SJ, 0W-20 all the way to 15W-50 depending on usage Oil filter is Ryco Z436 or Z445 : Nismo (Veruspeed) 15208-RN010 : K&N: HP-1008 : Amsoil Ea012 z445 - seal diameter 63mm, height - 65mm, seam diameter - 68mm, thread size - M20-x1.5-6Hmm z436 - seal diameter 64mm, height - 66mm, seam diameter - 69.50mm, thread size - M20-x1.5-6Hmm Oil filter is same as VQ35 and SR engines Belts are the same as 350z; Air con - 4PK950, Power steering/fan/alternator - 6PK1180 Belts are 4PK945 or 4PK0950 and 6PK1180 (NOTE: the digit before the PK is the number of ribs on the belt, PK means automotive cross-section, and the number after the PK is the length in mm) Standard turbo is a Garrett M24N and is a ball bearing unit with ceramic exhaust wheel Factory boost is 12-12.8psi AFM is same as T30 Xtrail OBD2 plug is a small black panel at the lowest point of dash on the drivers side, to the left of the steering wheel. The plug is attached to the panel and it drops down when you open the release on the side. 350z alternator is a direct replacement for the vq25det. Part number from NM35 is 23100-AM610 (MrStabby got it rebuilt for $260. Ebay from the US ~$350 delivered). The VQ35 starter sort of fits, it's larger and probably more powerful than the little VQ25 unit. The power lead is on a different angle and gets close to the hot side cooler pipe VQ motor overheating fix DIY http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460250-your-vq35-overheating/ M35 fan clutch fix DIY: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473606-m35-refill-hydraulic-fan-clutch/ Battery: Century NS40ZL (330 CCA) or NS40ZLX (premium, 390 CCA), NRMA/RAC 2384/2047/3053 Suspension and Brakes Front rotors and pads are the same as 350z touring/V35 Skyline/current Maxima Rear rotors and pads are the same as the 350z touring/V35 Skyline/X-trail The rear pads & rotors for the 350z or v35 will not fit without modification Rda do nice semi metallic brake pads (~$30 per end), MUCH better than standard, not dusty Rda front; RDB1232SM (Listed as Maxima front pad) Rda rear; RDB1509SM (Listed as X-Trail rear pad) Shocks are KYB 350z premiums and at NZ$225 ea. they are a bargain Pretty sure v35/g35 front strut bar will fit m35 Camber/toe kit is same as g35/350z BRAKE MOD: The M35 ecu limits the throttle to 30% when the brake is applied and for approximately 3 seconds after its release. Cutting the brake signal to the ecu disables this but it will eventually throw a fault code unless you find some way to trick it. (connect it up temporarily when you don't need throttle.) Most just run a switch and tap the brake as they flick it, only needs to be done occasionally. The kick panel ecu is for the trans, the ecu is behind the glove box. Mod is to cut the pink/blue strip wire on the ECU. Drivetrain Gearbox is RE5R05A Gearbox fluid: Nissan matic J (or Nissan matic S, or Nulon synthetic (compatible with nissan C/D/J/K, $16.60perL) or Valvoline synthetic (compatible with nissan D/J/K, $10perL)) Auto trans fluid change interval: 60,000kms Diff oil change interval: 60,000kms Diffs require 1.4L each, and factory weight is 80W-90. Syncro = 50/50 split up to 40 kmp/h then it goes back to normal. Snow = 50/50 split up to 40kmp/h but starts in 2nd gear and reduces boost. “ATTESA E-TS system is normally 0:100, but can split up to 50:50. SYNC mode is constant 20:80, but can also do 50:50. SNOW mode appears to be 50:50, but hard to tell, but it does NOT start in 2nd gear. Im guessing that there is a boost limit. ATF 'D' is reccomended, 1.8L is required to fill the system.” Action Dans auto service [[http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/424256-auto-service-questions/ (not Stagea) Part Numbers Xenon headlight globe: D2R type, Phillips 85126C1 std 4200K, about $75 each. The Xenon is the top bulb, the bottom bulb is a regular H4. Lid Weatherstrip (Rear Sunroof Rubber): 91246-AQ020 $77.00 + GST = $84.70 Duct Air (Power Duct add-on for standard M35 air box): 16555-AM604 $163.00 + GST = $179.30 Centre Cover (Front Axle Plastic Guard): 75881-AQ060 $84.00 + GST = $92.40 Passenger side cam cover gasket: 13270-AL612 Drivers side cam cover gasket: 13270-AQ800 Fuel Flap Snub Rubbers: 78837-AG000 (The little rubber buttons that hold the fuel flap flush with the rear quarter panel) Fuel tank O-ring: 17342-01A00 Fuel filter strainer: 16400-4M405 (Hornsby Nissan price; $38.70 in 2015) Rear wiper arm: 28781-AQ010 direct from Nissan for $55 Rear wiper blade assembly: AY003-H25AR Cabin pollen filter: 27277-4M400 or Ryco RCA113P (but: There's also a Ryco with a C at the end of the p/n which designates it as an activated carbon/charcoal filter, this is the correct replacement for the factory one) Upper radiator hose: 21501-AL5000 or Gates 22967 or Mackay CH4966 Lower radiator hose: 21503-CD000 or Gates 22968 or Mackay CH4962 or CH4960 Front brake pads: DB1485 or Project Mu F209 Front brake rotors: DBA954 Rear brake pads: DB1509 or Project Mu R209 Rear brake rotors: DBA574 KYB front shocks: NSF9420R + NSF9420L (right and left sides) KYB rear shocks: 2 x NSF2069 Water pipe (~350mm long, scarificial anode of cooling system, so will corrode): 21021-AQ802 Price; $64.56 usd. O-ring: 21049-AE000 Price; $1.10 usd. Front indicator globe: T20 21W Starter Motor: 23300-AL600 (expensive, ex-Japan) Starter Motor Brush kit: 23378-EN20A (also used in Australian model starters so readily available) Turbo replacement gasket set: 14401-AQ826 Turbo to dump gasket: 14445-4P200 Turbo to dump gasket: 14415-4P200 (1) $41.61 each Turbo intercooler piping outlet gasket: 14465-4P200 (1) $5.22 Oil return line gasket: 15196-73L00 (1) $2.97 each Eye bolt gasket: 15189-01P00 (4) $3.48 each Turbo drain washer: 11026-01M02 (4) $1.91 each VQ25DET valve stem seals: 13207-84A00 (Looks like same as vq35, so there are aftermarket options available out of the US) Belts: AY140-61175 and AY14N-4094E Torque Convertor / front pump assembly auto trans seal: 31375-44X02 (Symptom, oil coming from between gearbox and transmission) Front wheel bearing (AWD): NI-40210-AL800 (same as J32 maxima) Found to be incorrect. The correct CBC part number is NJ137KIT and should be available at any bearing shop. Front hub assembly (AWD): NI-40202-24U00 (same as J32 maxima) NM35 Radiator Filling Thought I'd put this Radiator fill guide in here; seems like there's a fair bit of stress in doing this job, and that in turn scares people away from doing relatively simple jobs. Stolen from V-Series forum; http://www.skylinesa...iunum-radiator/ Well done Nate, hopefully this de-mystifies the procedure a little and the post title will hopefully make it easy to find. Yeah over heating can be a pain when u dont get all the air out, so get it done right the first time. Here is what you have to do for a correct V35/350GT/G35 coolant flush with no air bubbles (my post on g35driver)Well i got it, ended up doing this, which should be done from step 1: Wait till car is cooled down Jack up front or park on step incline remove rear bleed valve from heater hose remove rad drain plug with bucket under it remove rad cap remove and wash out overflow ONCE DRAINED Put rad drain plug back in put bleed plug back in put over flow container back in get a long funnel or water bottle or non spill funnel and put tape about 1” from the tip of funnel or on the thread of the bottle until its thick enough to fit snug in the rad neck with car off fill the overflow to minimum. with car off slowly poor mixture into funnel wedged in rad with your premixed mixture (i used distilled and water wetter) Once you see it no longer draining from the funnel grab the lower rad hose and compress and let go a few times and see if anymore drains out, top it up if it all goes Start the car and slowly keep at least a bit of fluid so that the funnel is at no point completely empty As you see it no longer draining and staying where it is rev car to 1500-2000 for 30sec and then let idle. Repeat a few times As soon as you see fluid rise up the funnel and overflow container full turn car OFF Let rest of the fluid drain, if none is left very slowly poor more in until you cant fit any more in. You should put rad cap back on, start car again and turn fans on with A/C off and temp as high as it can go and fans on high Make sure you can feel hot air, that means coolant is circulating and passing hot air out, cold air = air bubble = slightly opening the bleed valve and letting air out until just water comes out. one you confirm hot air and/or no air from bleed valve turn car OFF If jacked up put it down and go for a drive, if all good then put under tray back on! Keep and eye on overflow tank for next week and make sure its at minimum
  6. If anyone needs the complete english Workshop manual for this engine i have it and am happy to share it with you, in pdf form. Cooling system https://ufile.io/7b31q Engine control https://ufile.io/ltv1r Engine Mechanical https://ufile.io/8ygvm Exhaust https://ufile.io/fny97 Lubrication https://ufile.io/ao98k Starting system https://ufile.io/znhl7 says it will expire in 30days let me know if you need it reuploaded. please keep it on the dl as not sure about the legalities behind sharing it.
  7. prince_skyline

    vic 

    M35 Stagea RS - Wrecking Wrecking my M35 Stagea Parts (off the top of my head) that are sold are: Aero Body kit (sold) Front guards (sold) Tein Coilovers (sold) Whiteline Sway Bars (sold) Rear Compartment cover (sold) Headlights (sold) Eyebrows (sold) Centre head unit (sold pending payment) Steering wheel (sold pending payment) Reverse Camera (sold pending payment) Number plates also for sale: M35WGN All located in Lilydale, VIC Pickup preferred, however will post items at your expense Message me if you are after something specifically, and i'll let you know if it is available
  8. Just noticed some leaking from the power steering rack when I had the wheel off. Not entirely old residue, there was a couple fresh looking drops on it. Haven't noticed anything weird with the steering yet, so assuming relatively fresh leak. Any thoughts on how to go about fixing this? It seems to be only surrounding that large bolt.
  9. andynogo

    I have a few issues with my car at the moment: Pretty bad shuddering in reverse with wheels turned (fine when reversing in a straight line) Shuddering when driving in a straight line- almost feels like the car is rhythmically binding up a bit. Worse with power on, but still happens when rolling in neutral. Really really bad shudder on moderate and hard acceleration. Goes alright but it's quite nasty- almost verging on quite a harsh vibration/shudder/clicking noise/feeling. At first I thought it was a terrible misfire/boost cut but I'm fairly sure it's a mechanical drivetrain issue. The engine is running well so it's not misfiring. All new coils, O2 sensor, MAF, exhaust, CV's all checked and good (one replaced). Wheel bearings all good. New gearbox fluid, need to flush attesa fluid and transfer case. I've got 370Z staggered rims but was doing this with the standard ARX rims as well. The attesa pump appears to be working properly, no 4wd light on dash. With an upgraded ecu with tweaked shifts it was doing some really nasty gearchange bangs (particularly on downshift at 100k's and some gearchanges at low speed), alleviated by Christian kindly sending me a re-programmed ecu without gearshift changes. I've got heaps of troubleshooting to do, was just wondering if anyone else has come across the same symptoms?
  10. I bought this car approximately 1.5 years ago, and I planned to keep it for quite a while thanks to the low kms at the time of purchase (approximately 55,000). However, personal circumstances have changed and now I need to sell it. In no particular order, here are the major features: Front and rear power sunroof, with lockout switch for rear sunroof. Factory radar cruiser control. After market alarm and immobiliser (installed during compliance). 4WD, 4 Wheel Steering (HICAS) and LSD. 5-Speed Automatic with manual control. I obtained a suitable paddle-shifter from a V35 Nissan Skyline 350GT-8, but I never got around to installing it (happy to throw this in at no extra charge). Factory Japanese DVD Navigation System with factory screen (menus are untranslated). RCA inputs for audio/video playback. Factory head unit, with cassette tape/CD/Mini-Disc playback support (Mini-Disc Changer is in the centre storage bin). Factory reverse camera. Driver and Passenger electronic/heated seats, with manually adjustable lumbar support on driver seat. Full factory leather interior, with matching leather trim. Front and rear factory carpets, including factory boot carpet. Factory tyre-jack set/spare wheel. Factory cargo net. Factory cargo cover. Factory rear seat-belt for middle passenger, and rear child-proof seat-belt clasp. Driver/passenger front and side airbags, curtain airbags for 2nd row Front and rear fog lights. Height adjustable faxtory Xenon headlights. Completely mechanically stock, with no alterations or non-factory modifications other than a new battery (less than 1 year ago). Brake cut-off mod completed recently, with switch installed in back of glove-box. All original manuals and paperwork included, and even some detailed service receipts while it was still in Japan. Very comfortable and easy to drive, reassuringly solid in wet weather, and just cool in general. Has not been thrashed and has always been fed with V-Power petrol. Overall condition of the car is seriously very very good, especially considering its age. Original Japanese de-registration papers, and copies from an online registration check, are also included. Kilometres have been proven. Registration expiring April 2018. Biggest problem would be the condition of the drivers seat. There are no tears or rips of any kind, but the colour (and a bit of the leather feel) has faded from the left hand side of the seat. I also have the paddle-shifters from a V35 GT-8, and some braces that have not been installed yet. Willing to throw them into the deal as well. Asking price: $13,500 (ONO) KM's: 64,000 VIN: U90000NM35302391 Model Code: VLGPRXNM35UDA-AA-C http://gtr-registry.com/en-nm35-vin-table.php Contact Name: George Contact Number: 0412 443 996 Email: flamingmonkey@gmail.com Price is negotiable, and I need this gone, so please make me a reasonable offer! Car is also on Carsales and Gumtree.
  11. Not needed as I only wanted the surround for double din. No scratches or cracks on it. Not too sure if the boost and torque gauges work as my car is an AR-X, but the voltage and illumination works. $40 posted Australia wide. Contact Brendon on 0402 seven zero two 102
  12. darksould43

    i was just driving around today and helped out some tourists jumping starting their car, 2.5/5 v6 magnnum, and as i was driving away i notcied my at check light came on, this is the first time it has happened, tried turning the car on and off and still there, so i drove home, turned it off for a bit and before i went out for adrive again i pput into 'd' and juist waited a bit before going anywhere and it didnt come on, anything i have to worry about? ill check if it does it again tomorrow, could it be taking off to quickly when putting it into gear? p.s i also left the car running the whole time doing the jump start
  13. Caleb_M35

    As the title suggests, is it possible to remove the front CV shafts on an NM35 Stagea without any ill-effects? I have already removed the front tailshaft so currently there is zero power going to the front diff and the front CV shafts are just passively spinning with wheel rotation On a side note, here's a terrible iPhone quality photo of my stag rolling on all 4 Garsons for once
  14. jackbh241

    Hello helpful people of SAU, Does anyone know the correct torque for the lug nuts on the M35? The wheels on it are aftermarket 18”, not sure if that makes any difference? Sorry for the noob question just about to set out on a long road trip in the stag and after losing a wheel on the last road trip I wanna be sure everything is perfect this time (provided no one tries to steal the wheels this time around haha). Any help/pre road trip tips would be greatly appreciated,
  15. Anyone in Melb have an old pair lying around? **not warped Cheers in advance
  16. Stixbnr32

    Lock Up Torque Converter Looking at buying a 2002 Nissan Stagea with a VQ25det. When crusing in 5th (auto or tip) the lock up torque converter does not lock at around 80-100km/h. Is this normal? In 4th it locks fine in auto/tip. You can just tell when crusing at 2000rpm and you slightly accellerate the engine rises in revs alittle but no speed increase. In 4th there is a speed increase. Is this a problem? Thanks Guys.
  17. [SYD] WTB M35 boot struts I'm chasing a pair of boot struts for a M35. Mine are weak and don't hold the boot up. Happy to regas them or go aftermarket if there is ones that fit in. Just after a cheap solution!
  18. stripey

    Hi all. I have been searching through forum for m35 stageas for sale what I have found are quite a few that have been bumped and no responses for a few months. but still no mention of weather they have been sold. is it that they still have it in mind that they want to sell but not willing to put up with all the tyre kickers harassing them like what happened to me when I sold my last car I had to basically give it away just to get it out of driveway. what I am after is all those Guys/Gals on this forum who have it in their mind to sell their m35 but don't want to advertise because of above reasons. Carsales and gumtree just dont do it for me too many dealers cars not many private and none with modifications. two in particular are http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/432605-eoi-om350/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/437415-m35-stagea-the-ultimate-daily-237kw-wheels/
  19. M35 VQ25det Impul ECU Impul ecu for M35. Rarely pop up for sale and correct for the vq25det. Picks up power everywhere in the rev range. Much better throttle control and response, meaty mid range and a good top end increase. Great upgrade. $950
  20. mantaz

    Hi Everyone, I recently purchased a 2002 Stagea and after opening the rear sunroof I found out that nothing happens when you press the close switch so it is now stuck open. I am wondering if there is any kind of emergency close solution for when the motor doesn't work? I would also like to know what the best option is for finding a replacement motor, in case fixing it properly is a worthwhile option, and finally if there are any recommended mechanics around Adelaide who know what they're doing with Stageas?
  21. Hi guys, Looks like my window motor is cooked on the drivers side of my M35 Stagea. After a couple of things: 1 - Does anyone have the part number? 2 - Does anyone have a new or second hand one they are looking to sell? Cheers
  22. Rudi_ARX-TURBO

    Hey all, just finished having a dyno run on my m35, mods are dump pipe,3" exaust and suction pipe, it got 161.6 kw at 5970 revs and 562nm ,dont know if its any good, it had a leak in the blow off valve at first but with a small mod the boost increases smooth now and holds well,will have to take it back to eastern creek and try again, at least my 60foot were consistant at 2.0. cheers rudi
  23. I am selling a black 2003 nissan stagea m35. I hit a traffic island and have done some damage to the car. I have had it inspection by a mechanic and he said it can be repaired but it needs the following parts: RH K Frame, RH Front Strut, Engine Mount, Overflow Bottle, Radiator Fan, Radiator Shroud, RH Fender, Windscreen and RH Headlight (non hdi) I have already bought another car so have lost interest in fixing it. It is AWD and has approx 160,000kms. I am selling for $10,000 ono. First to see will buy. Located at Springfield Lakes 4300.
  24. Two for sale which are made from 22MM O. D. bar with 3MM wall thickness, so are very solid. These will help stiffen up the front of the rear subframe to reduce flex. (full bar set also available for purchase) Straight bolt in item which will come supplied with hardware. $100 each shipped Australia wide. Pm me or contact Brendon on 0402 seven zero two 102
  25. Coullsy

    M35 won't fire Evening, sorry about the long post but I'm trying to give as much info as possible. I have recently acquired a 2001 M35 stagea (VQ25DET), the morning after driving it home it it would turn over but not fire, after 10 minutes of trying it finally fired up but ran like crap. Next few starts it started and ran well. Saturday morning it started and drove fine. Come Saturday afternoon it wound over and over, after 20 minutes of trying it finally started, but ran terribly all the way home. Got it home and shut it off and tried to restart it and it just wouldn't fire. Sunday morning I tried and just keeps winding. I have checked all the fuses, changed all the coils, the plugs, the immobiliser batteries and the CAS and it still won't fire, when turning over it will get the occasional cough but that's it. The cam sensors were changed with the recal but I'm not sure how long ago. The car is running a Greddy Emanage and the MIL light is on all the time (owner said this and after searching it is a common thing with these ECU's) I have tried the self diagnostic thing with the key and the pedal but for the life of me I can't get the MIL to flash, I've used a stop watch to time everything and still can't, no sure if just me or emanage has something to do with it I don't have a scan tool and can't start the car to take it anywhere, does anyone have any ideas or suggestions on why it won't fire?