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Found 169 results

  1. Sack87

    Brendons M35 build Thought I'd create a mini build thread on my progress with my first foray into Nissan wagon life and also a place to ask questions/path to follow. I bought the car with f**ked coil packs so I picked it up cheap off some Indian guy. Put a new set of coil packs in and all was sweet for the next 6 months . . . I noticed an oil leak from the passenger side that was slowly getting worse and traced it back to the oil feed line. Ah well no biggy, just an easy fix or so I thought! Having not worked on a VQ before, it wasn't until later on I discovered you can't get the line off without pulling the whole turbo Since the car wasn't far off 200k and the turbo had begun the Dyson whine song, I frantically searched for a new turbo. Scotty to the rescue with a Billet Intense he had spare that got to me in 4 days. In the mean time while the car was off the road I set about fabbing up a 3" bellmouth dump pipe. Then followed it up with a 3"-2.5" intake pipe. (Still need to weld on BOV return bung) And this weekend just gone I fabbed up a 3" catless exhaust system to finish it all off. I picked up 7psi of boost without touching a thing, so it's stuck on 21psi with standard injectors and pump. I've hit up Christian to see if it's possible to run the car safely at this level on 98 with his flash tune, otherwise I will probably put a hi-flow cat in to drop the boost a little. I've got a few other things in the works but all in due time!
  2. If anyone needs the complete english Workshop manual for this engine i have it and am happy to share it with you, in pdf form. Cooling system Engine control Engine Mechanical Exhaust Lubrication Starting system says it will expire in 30days let me know if you need it reuploaded. please keep it on the dl as not sure about the legalities behind sharing it.
  3. prince_skyline


    M35 Stagea RS - Wrecking Wrecking my M35 Stagea Parts (off the top of my head) that are sold are: Aero Body kit (sold) Front guards (sold) Tein Coilovers (sold) Whiteline Sway Bars (sold) Rear Compartment cover (sold) Headlights (sold) Eyebrows (sold) Centre head unit (sold pending payment) Steering wheel (sold pending payment) Reverse Camera (sold pending payment) Number plates also for sale: M35WGN All located in Lilydale, VIC Pickup preferred, however will post items at your expense Message me if you are after something specifically, and i'll let you know if it is available
  4. Selling a set of underbody braces to fit a M35 Stagea. $200 Painted black and attempted to test fit, but quickly r ealised that they don't fit the NA/RWD Stageas... oops! Also selling a pair of resonated test pipes for a VQ35DE. Brand new still in plastic, just decided to go another route. $150 Also-also selling some Lexani tyres that came off my current rims. Tread is at least 75%. $100 Also-also-also selling some 20" rims in another ad I've posted.
  5. Just noticed some leaking from the power steering rack when I had the wheel off. Not entirely old residue, there was a couple fresh looking drops on it. Haven't noticed anything weird with the steering yet, so assuming relatively fresh leak. Any thoughts on how to go about fixing this? It seems to be only surrounding that large bolt.
  6. andynogo

    I have a few issues with my car at the moment: Pretty bad shuddering in reverse with wheels turned (fine when reversing in a straight line) Shuddering when driving in a straight line- almost feels like the car is rhythmically binding up a bit. Worse with power on, but still happens when rolling in neutral. Really really bad shudder on moderate and hard acceleration. Goes alright but it's quite nasty- almost verging on quite a harsh vibration/shudder/clicking noise/feeling. At first I thought it was a terrible misfire/boost cut but I'm fairly sure it's a mechanical drivetrain issue. The engine is running well so it's not misfiring. All new coils, O2 sensor, MAF, exhaust, CV's all checked and good (one replaced). Wheel bearings all good. New gearbox fluid, need to flush attesa fluid and transfer case. I've got 370Z staggered rims but was doing this with the standard ARX rims as well. The attesa pump appears to be working properly, no 4wd light on dash. With an upgraded ecu with tweaked shifts it was doing some really nasty gearchange bangs (particularly on downshift at 100k's and some gearchanges at low speed), alleviated by Christian kindly sending me a re-programmed ecu without gearshift changes. I've got heaps of troubleshooting to do, was just wondering if anyone else has come across the same symptoms?
  7. I bought this car approximately 1.5 years ago, and I planned to keep it for quite a while thanks to the low kms at the time of purchase (approximately 55,000). However, personal circumstances have changed and now I need to sell it. In no particular order, here are the major features: Front and rear power sunroof, with lockout switch for rear sunroof. Factory radar cruiser control. After market alarm and immobiliser (installed during compliance). 4WD, 4 Wheel Steering (HICAS) and LSD. 5-Speed Automatic with manual control. I obtained a suitable paddle-shifter from a V35 Nissan Skyline 350GT-8, but I never got around to installing it (happy to throw this in at no extra charge). Factory Japanese DVD Navigation System with factory screen (menus are untranslated). RCA inputs for audio/video playback. Factory head unit, with cassette tape/CD/Mini-Disc playback support (Mini-Disc Changer is in the centre storage bin). Factory reverse camera. Driver and Passenger electronic/heated seats, with manually adjustable lumbar support on driver seat. Full factory leather interior, with matching leather trim. Front and rear factory carpets, including factory boot carpet. Factory tyre-jack set/spare wheel. Factory cargo net. Factory cargo cover. Factory rear seat-belt for middle passenger, and rear child-proof seat-belt clasp. Driver/passenger front and side airbags, curtain airbags for 2nd row Front and rear fog lights. Height adjustable faxtory Xenon headlights. Completely mechanically stock, with no alterations or non-factory modifications other than a new battery (less than 1 year ago). Brake cut-off mod completed recently, with switch installed in back of glove-box. All original manuals and paperwork included, and even some detailed service receipts while it was still in Japan. Very comfortable and easy to drive, reassuringly solid in wet weather, and just cool in general. Has not been thrashed and has always been fed with V-Power petrol. Overall condition of the car is seriously very very good, especially considering its age. Original Japanese de-registration papers, and copies from an online registration check, are also included. Kilometres have been proven. Registration expiring April 2018. Biggest problem would be the condition of the drivers seat. There are no tears or rips of any kind, but the colour (and a bit of the leather feel) has faded from the left hand side of the seat. I also have the paddle-shifters from a V35 GT-8, and some braces that have not been installed yet. Willing to throw them into the deal as well. Asking price: $13,500 (ONO) KM's: 64,000 VIN: U90000NM35302391 Model Code: VLGPRXNM35UDA-AA-C Contact Name: George Contact Number: 0412 443 996 Email: Price is negotiable, and I need this gone, so please make me a reasonable offer! Car is also on Carsales and Gumtree.
  8. Not needed as I only wanted the surround for double din. No scratches or cracks on it. Not too sure if the boost and torque gauges work as my car is an AR-X, but the voltage and illumination works. $40 posted Australia wide. Contact Brendon on 0402 seven zero two 102
  9. darksould43

    i was just driving around today and helped out some tourists jumping starting their car, 2.5/5 v6 magnnum, and as i was driving away i notcied my at check light came on, this is the first time it has happened, tried turning the car on and off and still there, so i drove home, turned it off for a bit and before i went out for adrive again i pput into 'd' and juist waited a bit before going anywhere and it didnt come on, anything i have to worry about? ill check if it does it again tomorrow, could it be taking off to quickly when putting it into gear? p.s i also left the car running the whole time doing the jump start
  10. Caleb_M35

    As the title suggests, is it possible to remove the front CV shafts on an NM35 Stagea without any ill-effects? I have already removed the front tailshaft so currently there is zero power going to the front diff and the front CV shafts are just passively spinning with wheel rotation On a side note, here's a terrible iPhone quality photo of my stag rolling on all 4 Garsons for once
  11. Cleaning out my garage and found them, brand new still wrapped in plastic. Full set front and rear, in a tan/beige colour... $100 pickup from 3192. Can ship but they are not light.
  12. As stated I have a used Scotty's dump and front pipe with 100cel cat to suit M35, NM35 Stagea. $700 pick up Sth East Melb Cheers
  13. Since I have got one of each left, I'm selling a full set of these ready to go to stiffen up the big wagon. They are primed ready for whatever colour you choose to paint them. 1x 20MM front bar. (straight bolt in) 1x front rear subframe brace (straight bolt in with hardware) 1x rear rear subframe brace (straight bolt in ONLY WITH AFTERMARKET EXHAUST) These actually make a big difference in steering response and general tighter feeling of the car. $275 posted anywhere in Australia. Contact Brendon on 0402 seven zero two 102
  14. darksould43

    any idea on how to do a burnout in a 300 rx stagea? it doesnt have traction control or anything but every time i try all the engine does is rev to 2000rpm and nothing else, i hold the brakes just enough to stop the car rolling and try to rev the engine but nothing, what am i doing wrong, i can try chaining it to a pole but id rather not atm
  15. RS_Wags

    I bought an M35 last week and after trolling the forums all weekend I have a couple newb questions about brakes and suspension.... Looks like I'm running stock brakes at the moment and when I brake the car will shudder quite a bit, I haven't been able to get the car in the air yet, but I'm assuming it's warped rotors. I'm a why replace when you can upgrade sort of guy and from hunting around the boards it seems the 350z calipers and are a straight bolt on apart from possibly needing wheel spacers? Are there any specifics I need to know? Year range, model variants etc? I've also noticed a clunk in the suspension somewhere, looking at the notes from a service last year the mechanic said the was a knock in front shocks, so I'm assuming I'll be up for new suspension very soon. This is going to be my daily school bus/shopping trolley (got motorbikes for when I want to go proper fast), so I don't want it to be too stiff. I've seen a lot of people here recommend BC coilovers. I ran the V1's in my RS Liberty with Whiteline everything and even on the softest damper setting it was still quite hard (To be fair I'd stripped a lot of weight out of the RS, could have something to do with it?). Is any sort of ride comfort possible int he Stagea with the BC's? Or should I look at getting some Bilsteins with circlip grooves machined into them? She's booked in at a good mechanic late next week for a proper going over, but I'd love to have a bit of info myself before then. Anyway I guess I should post some pics.
  16. BikBoi26

    Hey Guys, Im a bit new to this whole forums thing but its worth a shot lol. I brought a 2004 M35 Nissan Stagea 350rx about 4 months ago and i absolutely love it! Plenty of power, plenty of boot but no skids or burnouts so ive been looking allover the internet and youtube to find out that most new vehicles have something called a "Yaw sensor". Ive watched a couple of people on the internet put a switch on them and i'm really keen to do the same but unfortunately for me they must of relocated it. Apparently its meant to be located underneath the centre console but i took it apart and it wasn't there .... So moral of my question is does anyone know where they may of relocated the yaw sensor or now of any other ways i might be able to do a skid and not be so embarrassed when everyones doing burnouts and mine just revs to 2500rpm Lol Cheers
  17. Hi Guys, First post so if my etiquette or teminology is terrible be kind. Just replaced radiator and having a persistent overheating issue when the car is driven, but no issue when it idles other than a steaming exhaust. Sifted around the internet a little and seems like it's going to be a waterpump, blown head gasket or cracked head (more likely the last two from the steam symptom), so the motor probably gonna have to come out of the car. Anyone recommend any N/A tune type mods/tuning that should be done at the same time. (tension/replace timing chain probably a given as engine at +180,000) Any advice would be great.
  18. Hi All, Cleaning out the shed, putting these springs up for sale. I've since swapped out my suspension for BC coilovers, so these have to go else the missus will literally die of a fit. Part Numbers: 54010-RSM55, 55020-RSM55 $200, local pick up only from Seven Hills, Sydney NSW. Cheers
  19. NicPM35

    Looking at grabbing a LSD from a 6 speed V35. Having trouble finding information confirming that it's a direct fit to the 3.5 RWD Stagea. Different forums mention things about splines not lining up and ratios being different... I am aware the LSD's from ARX etc will fit easy, but I have the opportunity to get a cheap V35 diff. Thanks!
  20. Tastagea

    so i need to remove the radiator from my 250t rs four which has been converted into a 6 speed manual out of a 350z. it is still using the stock radiator so it has lines going into the radiator for cooling the transmission from when it was an auto. So, are the transmission lines connected at the bottom to the two brass fittings? (photo attached for reference) these have nothing attached to them so i am not sure what they are for, other than that. i think i may be mistaking the transmission fluid lines for something else as the lines I want to remove are on the passengers side of the radiator and coming off the side of it. this photo shows the lines i need to remove. Any help would be appreciated. cheers
  21. For sale 2005 Nissan Stagea 350rx. Vq35 auto 6 speed. 1of three built in this spec. (From gtr registry) Imported from Japan 1.5 years ago by me via Iron chef imports. 68xxxKm. Serviced every 5000km with genuine Nissan filters and Penrite oil. 2 keys. Japanese service books. Work Kiwami wheels in 18x9.5” wrapped in Faulken tyres and 1 brand new rim as a spare. Approximately 5 months rego. Android based stereo. Great condition. Only selling because now I have a work vehicle. Will consider swapping for a clean s13, s14, s15 with possible cash my way.
  22. Mitch_NM35

    Hi All, I've ordered an NM35 from Japan! I live in Perth but do regular windsurfing trips to Exmouth (~1200km) and Geraldton (~400km) and wanted something more spacious and interesting than my Forester. Because of sport and the family business I've always needed bigger cars and never owned anything that inspired me to work on it, until I heard about the Stagea. After trawling the forums here I decided to bite the bullet and ordered one a couple of weeks ago. It's still ~8 weeks away but I've already got a list of upgrades I want to make to it. I've got a reasonable idea of what upgrades I want but would really like to get some feedback and hear the experiences of others. Is there a particular part of the Wagoneers forum I should post in? Cheers, Mitch
  23. Hi Guys, Thought I would write up a tutorial, as I just finished changing the clock spring in my M35. This is the most common cause of the Airbag error light flashing on the dash in modern Nissans. First of all, the disclaimer - you take on any work at your own risk, I'm in no way responsible for damage to you or your car if you attempt this. If you don't know how to do mechanical stuff, this probably isn't for you. We are dealing with an airbag, which contains explosive material and mishandling will set it off and break your face. Right? Backstory: OK, I have a flashing airbag error light. Unfortunately my error code reading system wouldn't read the airbag errors, only BCM and ECU related codes. So off I go to my friendly Nissan Dealer. Plugged into CONSULT, I get a B1049 Drivers Airbag module Open code. My friendly Nissan Tech explains the most common fault from this is the Clock Sping, which is the unit that keeps the airbag electrically connected while you are swinging the wheel back and forth. In fact, by chance he has to do one on a Pathfinder that arvo (it's that common...). Looked up the part in FAST, and ordered it. The cost is around the $180 mark incl GST from the dealership. 2 week wait ex Japan. On to the fitting! The only special tool you will need is a 6 pointed T30 security torx style thingo. This is to undo the airbag in the very first step. The entire process shouldn't take you more than about 1 hour. Took me a little longer taking photos and finding out shit along the way. FIRST STEP- Park the car on a level place, with the steering centred. Turn car off. ****DISCONNECT THE BATTERY**** this is very important cause you don't want the airbag to go off in your face. Drain the system of any residual charge via the horn, interior lights, etc etc. Undo the two security torx bolts that hold in the airbag. The airbag will slide out towards you. Point it away from you. Look at the back of the airbag, using a small flathead screwdriver, gently raise the black tab on the plug, and pull the yellow connector out. Place the airbag somewhere out of the way, with the nissan badge facing upwards, not near any electrical charge. Next unplug the yellow earth, and grey plug. Using a 19mm socket, loosen the steering wheel nut, but don't remove it completely. Pull the steering wheel towards you, this will require force, and a bit of a wiggle (or a puller if you have one...). Place the steering wheel aside. This is what it will look like On the underside, remove the two phillips screws, and the cover will split in half Now the clock spring is held on by two Phillips screws, either side, at the 8 and 4 positions. Remove the large plug from the top left if the unit, and once you have taken the screws out, remove the two plugs on the bottom of the unit, one yellow, one grey. There is a small clip on the top of the unit to hold it in place, depress and remove it. It will then come off into your hands. You will have to change over the stalks onto the new unit. this is done by depressing two clips on either side of the stalk and pulling it out. It has a little plug that will guide you. Put them back onto your new clock spring, making sure the clip into place, and the plugs are fully seated. Notice the new clock spring has a plastic guard over the plug. The clock spring comes pre-centred. Do not remove this until you are ready to place the steering wheel back onto the clock spring. This ensures it works for the range of motion of the wheel, and isn't 360 degrees out of alignment. To put your new assembly back on, plug in the three plugs, and tighten the two Phillips screws. Put the yellow airbag plug through the hole in the steering wheel, and plug the yellow earth, and grey steering wheel control plug back in. Make sure you put the steering wheel back on straight- there are guide markings. Tighten the 19mm nut firmly. Tuck the wires back into their holders. Carefully replace the airbag plug, and depress the black clip to secure the plug. Slide the airbag unit back onto the wheel, and secure it via the two torx fittings. Connect your battery, and go and turn your ignition on, but make sure you are not sitting in the drivers seat ( do it from outside the car, incase you have farked up...). Nothing explodes...? Good. Check all your stalk functions and horm works ok. Now, to clear the flashing light, follow the steps found in other posts, which is basically turn ign on, as soon as you see the airbag light go off, turn ign off, wait 5 secs turn ign on again, repeat this 4 or 5 times. Start the car and the airbag light should not be flashing. Have a beer.
  24. mantaz

    Hi Everyone, I recently purchased a 2002 Stagea and after opening the rear sunroof I found out that nothing happens when you press the close switch so it is now stuck open. I am wondering if there is any kind of emergency close solution for when the motor doesn't work? I would also like to know what the best option is for finding a replacement motor, in case fixing it properly is a worthwhile option, and finally if there are any recommended mechanics around Adelaide who know what they're doing with Stageas?
  25. Ryugen

    Hi all, been trawling through pages and pages and I can't find answers to all of my questions so I'm hoping to get some help in this thread. Background, I have a 2002 M35 Autech Axis that is due for a brake change (front pads and rotors are gone). I've managed to find a set of 350Z Brembos (cause why replace when you can upgrade) for a decent price and am just trying to get some more information before making the jump. From my digging, this is what I've found: Should be a direct bolt on however R34 GTT threads mention modification to the dust fan / bolt but unsure if the Brembos will face the same problems Information points to that the 18" Autech wheels might not fit but can't find confirmation Have seen no mention to the upgrade affecting ABS #justdoit What I wanted to know are the following: How bolt on is bolt on? Will the same changes need to done as per the R34 GTTs? Is there a guide somewhere specific to the Brembos? The kit comes with calipers, rotors and lines. Will that be all I need besides the pads? Anyone to confirm the 18" Autech wheels will/won't fit the Brembos Thanks! - Yang