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Found 131 results

  1. Hi All, Cleaning out the shed, putting these springs up for sale. I've since swapped out my suspension for BC coilovers, so these have to go else the missus will literally die of a fit. Part Numbers: 54010-RSM55, 55020-RSM55 $200, local pick up only from Seven Hills, Sydney NSW. Cheers
  2. As stated I have a used Scotty's dump and front pipe with 100cel cat to suit M35, NM35 Stagea. $700 pick up Sth East Melb Cheers
  3. NicPM35

    Looking at grabbing a LSD from a 6 speed V35. Having trouble finding information confirming that it's a direct fit to the 3.5 RWD Stagea. Different forums mention things about splines not lining up and ratios being different... I am aware the LSD's from ARX etc will fit easy, but I have the opportunity to get a cheap V35 diff. Thanks!
  4. Selling a set of underbody braces to fit a M35 Stagea. $200 Painted black and attempted to test fit, but quickly r ealised that they don't fit the NA/RWD Stageas... oops! Also selling a pair of resonated test pipes for a VQ35DE. Brand new still in plastic, just decided to go another route. $150 Also-also selling some Lexani tyres that came off my current rims. Tread is at least 75%. $100 Also-also-also selling some 20" rims in another ad I've posted.
  5. Tastagea

    so i need to remove the radiator from my 250t rs four which has been converted into a 6 speed manual out of a 350z. it is still using the stock radiator so it has lines going into the radiator for cooling the transmission from when it was an auto. So, are the transmission lines connected at the bottom to the two brass fittings? (photo attached for reference) these have nothing attached to them so i am not sure what they are for, other than that. i think i may be mistaking the transmission fluid lines for something else as the lines I want to remove are on the passengers side of the radiator and coming off the side of it. this photo shows the lines i need to remove. Any help would be appreciated. cheers
  6. If anyone needs the complete english Workshop manual for this engine i have it and am happy to share it with you, in pdf form. Cooling system https://ufile.io/7b31q Engine control https://ufile.io/ltv1r Engine Mechanical https://ufile.io/8ygvm Exhaust https://ufile.io/fny97 Lubrication https://ufile.io/ao98k Starting system https://ufile.io/znhl7 says it will expire in 30days let me know if you need it reuploaded. please keep it on the dl as not sure about the legalities behind sharing it.
  7. For sale 2005 Nissan Stagea 350rx. Vq35 auto 6 speed. 1of three built in this spec. (From gtr registry) Imported from Japan 1.5 years ago by me via Iron chef imports. 68xxxKm. Serviced every 5000km with genuine Nissan filters and Penrite oil. 2 keys. Japanese service books. Work Kiwami wheels in 18x9.5” wrapped in Faulken tyres and 1 brand new rim as a spare. Approximately 5 months rego. Android based stereo. Great condition. Only selling because now I have a work vehicle. Will consider swapping for a clean s13, s14, s15 with possible cash my way.
  8. Mitch_NM35

    Hi All, I've ordered an NM35 from Japan! I live in Perth but do regular windsurfing trips to Exmouth (~1200km) and Geraldton (~400km) and wanted something more spacious and interesting than my Forester. Because of sport and the family business I've always needed bigger cars and never owned anything that inspired me to work on it, until I heard about the Stagea. After trawling the forums here I decided to bite the bullet and ordered one a couple of weeks ago. It's still ~8 weeks away but I've already got a list of upgrades I want to make to it. I've got a reasonable idea of what upgrades I want but would really like to get some feedback and hear the experiences of others. Is there a particular part of the Wagoneers forum I should post in? Cheers, Mitch
  9. Hi Guys, Thought I would write up a tutorial, as I just finished changing the clock spring in my M35. This is the most common cause of the Airbag error light flashing on the dash in modern Nissans. First of all, the disclaimer - you take on any work at your own risk, I'm in no way responsible for damage to you or your car if you attempt this. If you don't know how to do mechanical stuff, this probably isn't for you. We are dealing with an airbag, which contains explosive material and mishandling will set it off and break your face. Right? Backstory: OK, I have a flashing airbag error light. Unfortunately my error code reading system wouldn't read the airbag errors, only BCM and ECU related codes. So off I go to my friendly Nissan Dealer. Plugged into CONSULT, I get a B1049 Drivers Airbag module Open code. My friendly Nissan Tech explains the most common fault from this is the Clock Sping, which is the unit that keeps the airbag electrically connected while you are swinging the wheel back and forth. In fact, by chance he has to do one on a Pathfinder that arvo (it's that common...). Looked up the part in FAST, and ordered it. The cost is around the $180 mark incl GST from the dealership. 2 week wait ex Japan. On to the fitting! The only special tool you will need is a 6 pointed T30 security torx style thingo. This is to undo the airbag in the very first step. The entire process shouldn't take you more than about 1 hour. Took me a little longer taking photos and finding out shit along the way. FIRST STEP- Park the car on a level place, with the steering centred. Turn car off. ****DISCONNECT THE BATTERY**** this is very important cause you don't want the airbag to go off in your face. Drain the system of any residual charge via the horn, interior lights, etc etc. Undo the two security torx bolts that hold in the airbag. The airbag will slide out towards you. Point it away from you. Look at the back of the airbag, using a small flathead screwdriver, gently raise the black tab on the plug, and pull the yellow connector out. Place the airbag somewhere out of the way, with the nissan badge facing upwards, not near any electrical charge. Next unplug the yellow earth, and grey plug. Using a 19mm socket, loosen the steering wheel nut, but don't remove it completely. Pull the steering wheel towards you, this will require force, and a bit of a wiggle (or a puller if you have one...). Place the steering wheel aside. This is what it will look like On the underside, remove the two phillips screws, and the cover will split in half Now the clock spring is held on by two Phillips screws, either side, at the 8 and 4 positions. Remove the large plug from the top left if the unit, and once you have taken the screws out, remove the two plugs on the bottom of the unit, one yellow, one grey. There is a small clip on the top of the unit to hold it in place, depress and remove it. It will then come off into your hands. You will have to change over the stalks onto the new unit. this is done by depressing two clips on either side of the stalk and pulling it out. It has a little plug that will guide you. Put them back onto your new clock spring, making sure the clip into place, and the plugs are fully seated. Notice the new clock spring has a plastic guard over the plug. The clock spring comes pre-centred. Do not remove this until you are ready to place the steering wheel back onto the clock spring. This ensures it works for the range of motion of the wheel, and isn't 360 degrees out of alignment. To put your new assembly back on, plug in the three plugs, and tighten the two Phillips screws. Put the yellow airbag plug through the hole in the steering wheel, and plug the yellow earth, and grey steering wheel control plug back in. Make sure you put the steering wheel back on straight- there are guide markings. Tighten the 19mm nut firmly. Tuck the wires back into their holders. Carefully replace the airbag plug, and depress the black clip to secure the plug. Slide the airbag unit back onto the wheel, and secure it via the two torx fittings. Connect your battery, and go and turn your ignition on, but make sure you are not sitting in the drivers seat ( do it from outside the car, incase you have farked up...). Nothing explodes...? Good. Check all your stalk functions and horm works ok. Now, to clear the flashing light, follow the steps found in other posts, which is basically turn ign on, as soon as you see the airbag light go off, turn ign off, wait 5 secs turn ign on again, repeat this 4 or 5 times. Start the car and the airbag light should not be flashing. Have a beer.
  10. mantaz

    Hi Everyone, I recently purchased a 2002 Stagea and after opening the rear sunroof I found out that nothing happens when you press the close switch so it is now stuck open. I am wondering if there is any kind of emergency close solution for when the motor doesn't work? I would also like to know what the best option is for finding a replacement motor, in case fixing it properly is a worthwhile option, and finally if there are any recommended mechanics around Adelaide who know what they're doing with Stageas?
  11. Ryugen

    Hi all, been trawling through pages and pages and I can't find answers to all of my questions so I'm hoping to get some help in this thread. Background, I have a 2002 M35 Autech Axis that is due for a brake change (front pads and rotors are gone). I've managed to find a set of 350Z Brembos (cause why replace when you can upgrade) for a decent price and am just trying to get some more information before making the jump. From my digging, this is what I've found: Should be a direct bolt on however R34 GTT threads mention modification to the dust fan / bolt but unsure if the Brembos will face the same problems Information points to that the 18" Autech wheels might not fit but can't find confirmation Have seen no mention to the upgrade affecting ABS #justdoit What I wanted to know are the following: How bolt on is bolt on? Will the same changes need to done as per the R34 GTTs? Is there a guide somewhere specific to the Brembos? The kit comes with calipers, rotors and lines. Will that be all I need besides the pads? Anyone to confirm the 18" Autech wheels will/won't fit the Brembos Thanks! - Yang
  12. RS_Wags

    I bought an M35 last week and after trolling the forums all weekend I have a couple newb questions about brakes and suspension.... Looks like I'm running stock brakes at the moment and when I brake the car will shudder quite a bit, I haven't been able to get the car in the air yet, but I'm assuming it's warped rotors. I'm a why replace when you can upgrade sort of guy and from hunting around the boards it seems the 350z calipers and are a straight bolt on apart from possibly needing wheel spacers? Are there any specifics I need to know? Year range, model variants etc? I've also noticed a clunk in the suspension somewhere, looking at the notes from a service last year the mechanic said the was a knock in front shocks, so I'm assuming I'll be up for new suspension very soon. This is going to be my daily school bus/shopping trolley (got motorbikes for when I want to go proper fast), so I don't want it to be too stiff. I've seen a lot of people here recommend BC coilovers. I ran the V1's in my RS Liberty with Whiteline everything and even on the softest damper setting it was still quite hard (To be fair I'd stripped a lot of weight out of the RS, could have something to do with it?). Is any sort of ride comfort possible int he Stagea with the BC's? Or should I look at getting some Bilsteins with circlip grooves machined into them? She's booked in at a good mechanic late next week for a proper going over, but I'd love to have a bit of info myself before then. Anyway I guess I should post some pics.
  13. Purchased this car approx 4years ago. The stagea has been fantastic, premium 98 fuel has always been used and the car has never missed a beat. Early on replaced the radiator for a bigger size than the original and all alluminium, which was on advice from my mechanic to be better suited & more efficient for the sports engine & Aussie conditions. That, plus english stereo are the only modifications to this car. The car has been regularly serviced since owned. The speedo has 128172km on it. Rego paid until Nov 2018 Very reluctant sale, as family has outgrown it.
  14. Sack87

    Brendons M35 build Thought I'd create a mini build thread on my progress with my first foray into Nissan wagon life and also a place to ask questions/path to follow. I bought the car with f**ked coil packs so I picked it up cheap off some Indian guy. Put a new set of coil packs in and all was sweet for the next 6 months . . . https://imageshack.com/i/pnV0vOWcj https://imageshack.com/i/pltD8QHij https://imageshack.com/i/popQVxMsj I noticed an oil leak from the passenger side that was slowly getting worse and traced it back to the oil feed line. Ah well no biggy, just an easy fix or so I thought! Having not worked on a VQ before, it wasn't until later on I discovered you can't get the line off without pulling the whole turbo Since the car wasn't far off 200k and the turbo had begun the Dyson whine song, I frantically searched for a new turbo. Scotty to the rescue with a Billet Intense he had spare that got to me in 4 days. In the mean time while the car was off the road I set about fabbing up a 3" bellmouth dump pipe. Then followed it up with a 3"-2.5" intake pipe. (Still need to weld on BOV return bung) And this weekend just gone I fabbed up a 3" catless exhaust system to finish it all off. I picked up 7psi of boost without touching a thing, so it's stuck on 21psi with standard injectors and pump. I've hit up Christian to see if it's possible to run the car safely at this level on 98 with his flash tune, otherwise I will probably put a hi-flow cat in to drop the boost a little. I've got a few other things in the works but all in due time!
  15. Firstly - mods if this post is not allowed or in the wrong section please move/ delete! Do you have an M35 stagea in white? (paint code QX1)I am looking for expressions of interest to trade front end parts with you. I'm after guards, bonnet, lights, radiator support, grille and front bumper (plus all the little clips and bolts)In exchange you would get very clean, white, series 2 V35 bonnet, lights, bumper, guards, radiator support and grille. You'd get a v35 front end on your Stag and I'd get your parts.Have no idea how likely this is to work but if you don't ask you'll never know. Pic attached of my car and happy to post more photos for interested parties.Located Sydney and happy to travel to help uninstall your parts if need be! Thanks,Mark
  16. Bullus

    I have a 2002 M35 Axis by Autech 2.5l turbo AWD Stagea and have to replace the shocks and tie rods. Does anyone know part numbers for Axis variant or failing that, am i able to fit the BC BR coilovers and ordinary AWD M35 parts as replacement on the Axis, not sure what the differences with suspension between Axis and normal are. Thanks Andrew
  17. I bought this car approximately 1.5 years ago, and I planned to keep it for quite a while thanks to the low kms at the time of purchase (approximately 55,000). However, personal circumstances have changed and now I need to sell it. In no particular order, here are the major features: Front and rear power sunroof, with lockout switch for rear sunroof. Factory radar cruiser control. After market alarm and immobiliser (installed during compliance). 4WD, 4 Wheel Steering (HICAS) and LSD. 5-Speed Automatic with manual control. I obtained a suitable paddle-shifter from a V35 Nissan Skyline 350GT-8, but I never got around to installing it (happy to throw this in at no extra charge). Factory Japanese DVD Navigation System with factory screen (menus are untranslated). RCA inputs for audio/video playback. Factory head unit, with cassette tape/CD/Mini-Disc playback support (Mini-Disc Changer is in the centre storage bin). Factory reverse camera. Driver and Passenger electronic/heated seats, with manually adjustable lumbar support on driver seat. Full factory leather interior, with matching leather trim. Front and rear factory carpets, including factory boot carpet. Factory tyre-jack set/spare wheel. Factory cargo net. Factory cargo cover. Factory rear seat-belt for middle passenger, and rear child-proof seat-belt clasp. Driver/passenger front and side airbags, curtain airbags for 2nd row Front and rear fog lights. Height adjustable faxtory Xenon headlights. Completely mechanically stock, with no alterations or non-factory modifications other than a new battery (less than 1 year ago). Brake cut-off mod completed recently, with switch installed in back of glove-box. All original manuals and paperwork included, and even some detailed service receipts while it was still in Japan. Very comfortable and easy to drive, reassuringly solid in wet weather, and just cool in general. Has not been thrashed and has always been fed with V-Power petrol. Overall condition of the car is seriously very very good, especially considering its age. Original Japanese de-registration papers, and copies from an online registration check, are also included. Kilometres have been proven. Registration expiring April 2018. Biggest problem would be the condition of the drivers seat. There are no tears or rips of any kind, but the colour (and a bit of the leather feel) has faded from the left hand side of the seat. I also have the paddle-shifters from a V35 GT-8, and some braces that have not been installed yet. Willing to throw them into the deal as well. Asking price: $13,500 (ONO) KM's: 64,000 VIN: U90000NM35302391 Model Code: VLGPRXNM35UDA-AA-C http://gtr-registry.com/en-nm35-vin-table.php Contact Name: George Contact Number: 0412 443 996 Email: [email protected] Price is negotiable, and I need this gone, so please make me a reasonable offer! Car is also on Carsales and Gumtree.
  18. Just got some Recaro seat rails on the cheap for my car (stagea). My question is: do all recaros seats use the same size rail? (and other brands respectively as well) ie. if I have recaro rails can I safely go out and whack any recaro seat on it? I'm looking at nabbing seats from an Evo X, unless anyone else has any good leads!
  19. prince_skyline

    vic 

    M35 Stagea RS - Wrecking Wrecking my M35 Stagea Parts (off the top of my head) that are sold are: Aero Body kit (sold) Front guards (sold) Tein Coilovers (sold) Whiteline Sway Bars (sold) Rear Compartment cover (sold) Headlights (sold) Eyebrows (sold) Centre head unit (sold pending payment) Steering wheel (sold pending payment) Reverse Camera (sold pending payment) Number plates also for sale: M35WGN All located in Lilydale, VIC Pickup preferred, however will post items at your expense Message me if you are after something specifically, and i'll let you know if it is available
  20. Datbeast

    qld 

    Standard M35 stagea apart from Bc racing gold coilovers.New discs and pads 3 months ago, serviced every 5k with penrite full synth.90k on the clock. Inspections welcome.No rego or RWC. 4.5k ONO Brisbane, Everton Hills area. 0418374472All offers considered. Cheers
  21. Hi guys, Looks like my window motor is cooked on the drivers side of my M35 Stagea. After a couple of things: 1 - Does anyone have the part number? 2 - Does anyone have a new or second hand one they are looking to sell? Cheers
  22. Caleb_M35

    As the title suggests, does anyone know what components are available to increase the amount of negative camber in the rear of an NM35 Stagea? I'm slowly attempting to create a 'VIP'/'bippu' style build but I can't find a whole lot of parts to suit the NM35. Currently I have fitted Driftworks Front Upper Camber Arms to suit a 350z and have gotten to -6 deg happily but the rear is sitting at -5 deg with only a coilover installation. I do have 350z Rear Camber Arms but they seem to only be able to mount to adjust toe. At this stage its looking like most components will have to be fabricated.
  23. darksould43

    i recently brought a 300rx, its great but the stereo and speakers are aweful, i have seen people say you need to buy the aftermarket fascia kit for them but is there a cheaper way of putting an after market stereo in them? also, does anyone know if an underseat subwoofer would fit under the front seats of a stagea?
  24. Since I have got one of each left, I'm selling a full set of these ready to go to stiffen up the big wagon. They are primed ready for whatever colour you choose to paint them. 1x 20MM front bar. (straight bolt in) 1x front rear subframe brace (straight bolt in with hardware) 1x rear rear subframe brace (straight bolt in ONLY WITH AFTERMARKET EXHAUST) These actually make a big difference in steering response and general tighter feeling of the car. $275 posted anywhere in Australia. Contact Brendon on 0402 seven zero two 102
  25. If your M35 is overheating, check that the fan clutch is still supplying enough drive to move a decent amount of air. Fortunately, the fan clutch on the M35 is bolted together, which means it can be refilled. It will spin quite fast even it if it is completely stuffed. Search youtube for videos on how to check it (eg 1. Drive the car until everything is fully up to temperature. This will take a lot longer than to bring the temperature gauge up to its normal position. 2. Use an old magazine (or whatever) to slowly press against the spinning fan blades to slow them down. The fan will have a fair bit of momentum, even if the clutch is stuffed. I could hold the fan still with barely any pressure using my pinkie finger after it had slowed down. Again - watch some videos first. If you confirm that the clutch is stuffed, you will need fluid to re-fill it. Many use Toyota fluid, example part numbers are 08816-03001 or 08816-06001 or 08816-10001, which are 3000, 6000 and 10000 CST respectively. Higher CST is thicker/more viscous. The Toyota fluid is about $17 for 12ml on ebay. The fluid is reported to be silicon oil, which cost me $20 for 50ml from a hobby store. You need about 80ml. I originally used 10000 cst from both Toyota and hobby store and they appeared the same. I don't know what viscosity is correct, but the car sounds like an old skool v8 with fan noise now, so its either correct or too viscous (or i added too much fluid). EDIT: 10000 is definitely too thick - I have swapped it for 6000 which is better, but i'm still getting some belt squeal at high RPM, so either i have a belt/tension issue or its still too thick. Suggest 3000 as a starting point for anyone trying this. Steps are; 1. Remove the air box snorkel, and air box. 2. Undo the 4 x 10mm headed nuts from the fan mount, and the 2 bolts holding the top of the fan shroud on, and lift them out together. This will require a bit of wriggling 3. Spray the bolts, screws and pin in the middle of the bi-metallic strip of the fan assembly with WD40, and leave to soak. 4. Take the fan off the fan clutch (10mm headed bolts) 5. Undo the phillips head screws holding the two halves of the clutch together, and pry them apart. 6. Leave the two halves upside down to drain the old fluid overnight, or clean them out with solvent. When i drained out the new 10000cst it didn't come out clean, so i'd recommend cleaning it out now, even though i didnt. AFAIK, WD40, Kerosine, Degreaser etc leave a greasy residue and will contaminate the new fluid, so brake cleaner is probably a better option. 7. Use needle nose pliers to verify that the pin at the center of the bi-metallic strip on the outside of clutch can turn a little / is not seized. 8. Fill the reservoir up with new fluid. I filled to the top of the first step, so about the level of the black rectangle in the centre. 9. Bolt the two halves together and re-attach the fan 10. Re-install the fan and shroud, being careful to get the tabs at the bottom of the shroud keyed in before you bolt the top on. 11. Beers