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Build Thread

  1. Hi All, Just curious, has anyone ever installed the pop up OEM sat nav screen (not so concerned with the screen just the actual pop up mechanism and screen casing) in a m35 model that does not have the sat nav as standard (the one that has the mini glovebox instead)? Considering putting the screen in but would like to have it neat and 'stock looking' If not any suggestions for nice places/methods of mounting a 7" screen? thanks guys
  2. Hi, I noticed a troubling sound on my 03 M35 (not ARX), when I am slowing down to a complete stop once and I get down to about about 20kph I get a random intermittent 'knocking' sound that sounds like its coming from the rear passenger wheel. Any thoughts? I have also noticed that occasionally the 4WD warning light (well I assume it's a warning light?) comes on which may be related. I haven't got means to read the engine codes at this stage so any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  3. Hi Guys, Does anyone happen to know the stock wheel stud dimensions/sizing/etc for an 2003 M35? Is it shared with a V35 or anything else? I'm dealing with a typical no hoper mechanic who is too lazy to just check the bloody thing for himself and don't really want to leave it up to him to work it out or I might be waiting weeks. Any help would be amazing!
  4. Hey all, just finished having a dyno run on my m35, mods are dump pipe,3" exaust and suction pipe, it got 161.6 kw at 5970 revs and 562nm ,dont know if its any good, it had a leak in the blow off valve at first but with a small mod the boost increases smooth now and holds well,will have to take it back to eastern creek and try again, at least my 60foot were consistant at 2.0. cheers rudi
  5. FOR SALE 8/2002 Nissan Stagea Axis Autech Model. VIN: NM35311708 Engine: VQ25DET Color: White Trasmission: 5 speed Auto w/ tiptronic. Rego: Until April 2014 109xxx kms. Overview: Hey guys, I’ve not had this car for a year, and whilst it has been the most comfortable, and reliable car I've ever owned, my situation has changed with my fiancé purchasing a brand new car, and only now requiring one car for a daily commute. Paying 2 sets of insurance/fuel/maintenance is just not viable at this stage. I purchased this car from Ben at Northshore Prestige early this year around the 15/4/13. It had circa 104000kms when purchased, and I have put a further 4,000kms on it since owning. It is immaculate. The paint has no chips whatsoever. There is NO rust. Mechanically, it is A1. There is no creaks, rattles, sounds etc. Automatic gearbox feels strong. Being the Axis model, it also comes factory with a flared Autech styled bodykit, different grill, and from what I’ve been told, different suspension compared to non axis models. It comes with the beige leather interior (Not the crappy brown color) with heated seats, full electrics. The only issue that I have with it is that the CD Player has crapped itself. Radio/Tape player (lol)still works, and you can put CDs into the 6 stacker, but it will simply not play. Modifications: - 18" genuine Nissan ARX wheels. - EZlip front rubber lip. - 20% window tint on front 2 windows to match rear privacy glass. - 350Z Non Brembo slotted and dimpled rotors on the front. I’ve simply used it as a film car for my business, and a daily commuter to and from the Bank. It doesn't get thrashed whatsoever, and is serviced meticulously. Washed every 2 weeks, and a full detail done every 8-12 weeks. As far as I’m aware, at this stage, it is one of only 2 for sale in NSW. I have full approval papers from Department of Infrastructure and Transport, as well as Japanese Export Certificate in PDF format, provided by the dealer, if you would like to peruse it. PRICE: Looking for $15,990. Priced below market, and looking for a quick sale. Will not disappoint. Located in Seaforth, NSW, 2092. PICS: Please contact me on here via PM, or you can email me on shazzbanger (at) gmail (dot) com. Alternatively, you can contact me on zero four zero one two zero two five zero nine. If I am unable to answer, please leave a message and I will repsond as soon as I can. being a bank manager, it is sometimes hard to get to the phone all the time. Happy to accept SMS if that is your forte. Also happy to liase with potential buyer regarding auto vehicle inspection, or workshop inspection. Cheers, Shaz
  6. Stock M35 17" Wheels - $400 ONO In great shape, one tiny bit of gutter rash on one wheel (pictured) but otherwise in great condition. Tyres still have a bit of life in them, however they are terrible cheap tyres to begin with and make horrible noises when you are driving (don't buy these for the tyres) Sick of tripping over them so make an offer
  7. Hi Guys, Did a search with no luck (maybe I am doing it wrong). Turbo gave out on the Stagea last night Only 7,000k's into owning it, the car is still under warranty and the turbo is covered for failure. I have rung the company and they have put me onto their nearest repairers, but they are all closed for a few weeks over the Xmas period (timing sucks!). I have already accepted the fact I am going to have a public transport christmas but I would like to get the car back sooner rather than later! The warranty company then suggested that I find my own repairer and supply them with a quote. I have heard that these cars are notoriously difficult to work with, so I am after some of your hard earned experience. Who would you recommend for this repair in the south eastern suburbs (I'm out in sunny Pakenham)? Thanks in advance guys!
  8. Hi, I would love to put a rear wing on my Silver 2004 Axis 'S' Stagea. (PM35) If you have some photos, links, advice or if you have a wing for sale I would love to hear from you. Anything to help find a wing that suits my car would be awesome. Cheers Guys, Happy new year
  9. Hi Guys, A few questions here regarding the headlights on the M35. 1. For a while now I've had problems with the headlights cutting out (many times every time I drive it). It used to be only the passenger side lamp and figured I could swap the ballasts over to see if that's the problem however now it's both so I guess that isn't an option any more. I am assuming it's the ballast anyway but any thoughts as to how I would tell given that both cut out (at separate intervals - not at the same time). 2. Any one know what ballasts we can use? Preferably cheap ones? Or official model numbers? 3. I personal find the lamps pretty dull (doesn't help that you can't adjust them any higher than about 2ft in front of the car), any suggestions for a brighter bulb? 4. My passenger side parker lamp is also out, does anyone know the model number or aftermarket options? Sorry about all the questions but any help would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks all,
  10. M35 Stagea LHS Front Passenger Window Regulator for sale - Used, in good condition. $150 ONO. Make an offer. Does not include motor. Can throw in a broken drivers side power window motor if you have any use for it. Will post pics later today. Located in East Hills, NSW. Pick up or can arrange delivery.
  11. 2003 Nissan Stagea AXIS AUTECH, 2.5ltr V6 TURBO, tip tronic 5sp auto, ATESSA All Wheel Drive, All Autech options. This car represents great value at $17,990. Engine - VQ25DET - Power - 209kW @ 6400rpm - Torque - 407Nm @ 3200rpm Reasonable Offers Considered. I have really enjoyed driving this car however it is now time to sell as I am moving overseas. This Nissan Stagea has a full service history available. Check out this well maintained car, always garaged and looked after meticulously. Genuine 120,00kms with the car having been in Australia over 2 years. Registration has been paid until January 2015. - The previous owner/importer of this vehicle had all the leather re-trimmed in a high quality off-white/ tan coloured leather which looks amazing compared to the factory trim. - GPS fixed to work in Australia along with translation of the computers menu from Japanese to English. - Reverse camera installed. - HKS coilovers fitted and guards rolled. - Reverse Light covers (pictured) Regularly serviced, well looked after and will be extremely missed. PICTURES
  12. Hello helpful people of SAU, Does anyone know the correct torque for the lug nuts on the M35? The wheels on it are aftermarket 18”, not sure if that makes any difference? Sorry for the noob question just about to set out on a long road trip in the stag and after losing a wheel on the last road trip I wanna be sure everything is perfect this time (provided no one tries to steal the wheels this time around haha). Any help/pre road trip tips would be greatly appreciated,
  13. hey guys long time reader first time poster noob anyway i took a m35 stagea for a test drive today and it felt slow. it felt slower than my sigma ive never driven one before so im looking to jump in someones car(with them) for 5min or so anyone south of the city would be awsome i will drive to them
  14. Morning chaps. Yesterday, I took delivery of my new 2002 Nissan Stagea Axis Autech model from Northshore Prestige. Having recently sold my R34 Skyline due to not being able to fit film gear in the Liner, I went on the search for a new car. I was looking for something cool, auto, with a bit of power, upgradeability, comfort and most of all, space to fit all the things. After having driven a few different cards (VE Wagon, Legnum, etc) I went and saw Ben from Northshore Prestige, and took the car for a drive. It basically ticked all the boxes, and I left a deposit on it that day. Its done 104ks. After having the car for 1 day, my initial thoughts are as follows. 1) The suspension/body roll is horrible. I will definitely be investing in some swaybars to stiffen the body roll up a little bit. 2) The seating position is rather high. I would ideally like to put some lower seats in, but its not a HUGE issue. 3) The auto gearbox is one of the most sluggish POS's that I have ever experienced. This is something that will definitely get attended too. 4) The car feels very restricted. I would imagine freeing up the intake and exhaust will make it breath much better. Other then that, I'm really happy with it. It talks to me in Japanese everytime I turn the car on as well, which was pretty unexpected at first. I'd like to get a new dash facia so that I can fit an aftermarket head unit with bluetooth and ipod connectivity as well. Can anyone tell me what wheels these are? They seem to be factory Nissan 18"s. Pics: (I will get some better ones this weekend, these are the dealer photos) Cheers, Shaz
  15. Reading through various threads, seems like there are a few dual fuel LPG converted M35's running around. I would like to get some feedback from the M35 2.5l turbo owners who converted to LPG and have put some Km's on their engines. There may not be any 3.5L NA conversions done as yet? How much mileage have you covered? What system? Vapour injection or Liquid and brand What power level? What mods? Converted by? Tuned by? Tank size, total and useable? Tank location? cost before any rebates? Cost after any rebates? fuel economy city? Fuel economy Highway? any problems/notes on the conversion or improvements that could be made? Would you recommend to somebody else?
  16. Hey everyone. I just thought I would post up a thread with the build progress of my M35. Its no 600hp monster, but I wanted a daily driver that was reliable but still fun to drive on the weekends. A big thanks goes out to a few specific members of SAU who helped along the way - Craig, Andy, Dale & Scotty. Its been awesome having your help and knowledge! It all started with a pretty much box stock M35 (Had some shorter springs and G35 wheels). First things first, I wanted to make it a little tougher looking, so I painted the headlights black and decided to cover up the top half of the 'volvo' looking tail lights. After enjoying it for a few weeks I had the Language conversion done and also found that the standard rotors began to warp once again after machining... but that was an easy fix with these... I had to pick up some wider wheels to clear the new brakes.. Before; After The difference was massive. Pulling up a 2 tone car with these standard brakes was never going to go well - Part 2 to follow
  17. Hi All, I've been dealing with this issue for a few months now and virtually everybody I've spoken to about it is stumped (jetwreck helped out HEAPS with this but still haven't quite gotten to the bottom of it) so if you have any thoughts as to what might be causing this (no matter how unusual) It would be greatly appreciated: My 2003 M35 Stagea has a stalling issue. It seems to stall more frequently when cold however it still stalls when warm. Generally it seems to stall when the car is changing up gears (usually when taking off at the lights), however this is not always as sometimes it will stall when leaving it to warm up in the driveway. Once it has stalled it takes a few minutes to get it going again, it tries to turn over but won't get there and you can hear that the fuel pump isn't running. Obvious solution is sensors however now virtually every probable sensor has been replaced. Fuel pump and filter have been replaced. I've gone through and cleaned all the plugs as the engine bay was full of sand when I bought it. My current thoughts are faulty immobiliser or key barrel but it's a long shot and seems unlikely. Other strange things that MAY be related: ECU sometimes gives the Boost sensor A malfunction error code, but it seems to come and go. I occasionally get a 4WD warning light after stalling (ATTESA fluid is topped up). Fuel mileage is rubbish, might be normal but I've sometimes hit low fuel light at 250kms of 98 (O2 sensors havent been replaced but this wouldn't cause stalling would it?). Auto power windows switch doesn't work, goes up halfway then back down. This all may sound irrelevant but I am getting near my tolerance of this issue and wanna get it sussed out. Any random thoughts would be super helpful! Thanks all
  18. Sorry for the complete noob question but I wanted to be sure before I ordered them and can't find an answer on the site. I have a 2003 m35 250t rs4, are these the right model numbers for the QFM A1RM brake pads: Front: http://gslrallysport.com/au/qfm-db1232a1rm-brake-pads.html Rear: http://gslrallysport.com/au/brakes/brake-pads/db1509a1rm-qfm-a1rm-brake-pads.html thanks!
  19. I am selling a black 2003 nissan stagea m35. I hit a traffic island and have done some damage to the car. I have had it inspection by a mechanic and he said it can be repaired but it needs the following parts: RH K Frame, RH Front Strut, Engine Mount, Overflow Bottle, Radiator Fan, Radiator Shroud, RH Fender, Windscreen and RH Headlight (non hdi) I have already bought another car so have lost interest in fixing it. It is AWD and has approx 160,000kms. I am selling for $10,000 ono. First to see will buy. Located at Springfield Lakes 4300.
  20. Hi Guys and Gals, I am regrettably selling my 2001 Nissan M35 ARX-Four Stagea. I have owned this car since 2008, and imported the car from Japan myself. In this time its been nothing but reliable and a joy to own. The car has done 121,000km For those of you who don't know about the features of the M35 ARX-Four - The car has awesome power from the 2.5L V6 Turbo, and the ATTESA ET-S all wheel drive and rear wheel steering is fantastic through the corners and great off road as well. Inside, the car has full leather, auto headlights, heated and electric front seats, six stacker CD, climate control, rear view mirrors that dip when in reverse and fold shut when the car is locked. The rear seats fold fully flat from handles within the boot and creates a huge luggage bay. The car has done many country trips, and this is one of the areas the car excels. Its very comfortable on long distances and the powerful engine makes overtaking an ease. Storage is also impressive with a huge boot along with further storage in pockets and beneath the boot floor. Normally the ARX has black arches and guards, but I have had mine painted the body colour which in my opinion looks a lot better. The radio does not work as standard with Aus frequencies, but I have installed a frequency modifier which receives all the stations. Also included with this car are roof racks. There were no off the shelf roof rack kits that fit the NM35, so I have modified the brackets to take an X-Trail rack foot bolt pattern. These racks are easily removable in a few minutes. *The bike carriers shown in some photos are not included*. The car has recently had a full service, with all drive belts replaced, engine oil and filter, transmission oils and all diff oils, spark plugs, air filter and fuel filter. There is no timing belt to change in this car as it uses a timing chain. Also replaced recently are the brake pads and a full brake bleed. During my ownership I have also put on new front slotted rotors. The car has 245/50 R18 Khumo Ecsta KU31 tyres with 60% life left. I am asking $13,990 for it, but I am negotiable so feel free to make me a reasonable offer! Thanks, Brendan
  21. Fellow M35 owners, have any of you run into the 3rd brake light problem of it not working? And if so, what did you do to repair it? Mine actually flashes on for a split second sometimes, but turns right back off even if the brakes are depressed and the other normal brake lights stay on. Also, if I bang on the 3rd brake light while the brake is depressed I can sometimes get it to flash but turns right back off. Is the LED bulb assembly bad? Seems as if it's acting like there's a short in there somewhere. I plan on removing the plastic interior panel on the back to get to the assembly from underneath. Then use a test lamp to check the wiring. If the assembly is bad, I'm not so sure I want to purchase a new one from Nissan. If I can get inside the LED assembly, I may just wire in a new LED strip of lights myself. Any thoughts on this?
  22. Hi Guys, Thought I would write up a tutorial, as I just finished changing the clock spring in my M35. This is the most common cause of the Airbag error light flashing on the dash in modern Nissans. First of all, the disclaimer - you take on any work at your own risk, I'm in no way responsible for damage to you or your car if you attempt this. If you don't know how to do mechanical stuff, this probably isn't for you. We are dealing with an airbag, which contains explosive material and mishandling will set it off and break your face. Right? Backstory: OK, I have a flashing airbag error light. Unfortunately my error code reading system wouldn't read the airbag errors, only BCM and ECU related codes. So off I go to my friendly Nissan Dealer. Plugged into CONSULT, I get a B1049 Drivers Airbag module Open code. My friendly Nissan Tech explains the most common fault from this is the Clock Sping, which is the unit that keeps the airbag electrically connected while you are swinging the wheel back and forth. In fact, by chance he has to do one on a Pathfinder that arvo (it's that common...). Looked up the part in FAST, and ordered it. The cost is around the $180 mark incl GST from the dealership. 2 week wait ex Japan. On to the fitting! The only special tool you will need is a 6 pointed T30 security torx style thingo. This is to undo the airbag in the very first step. The entire process shouldn't take you more than about 1 hour. Took me a little longer taking photos and finding out shit along the way. FIRST STEP- Park the car on a level place, with the steering centred. Turn car off. ****DISCONNECT THE BATTERY**** this is very important cause you don't want the airbag to go off in your face. Drain the system of any residual charge via the horn, interior lights, etc etc. Undo the two security torx bolts that hold in the airbag. The airbag will slide out towards you. Point it away from you. Look at the back of the airbag, using a small flathead screwdriver, gently raise the black tab on the plug, and pull the yellow connector out. Place the airbag somewhere out of the way, with the nissan badge facing upwards, not near any electrical charge. Next unplug the yellow earth, and grey plug. Using a 19mm socket, loosen the steering wheel nut, but don't remove it completely. Pull the steering wheel towards you, this will require force, and a bit of a wiggle (or a puller if you have one...). Place the steering wheel aside. This is what it will look like On the underside, remove the two phillips screws, and the cover will split in half Now the clock spring is held on by two Phillips screws, either side, at the 8 and 4 positions. Remove the large plug from the top left if the unit, and once you have taken the screws out, remove the two plugs on the bottom of the unit, one yellow, one grey. There is a small clip on the top of the unit to hold it in place, depress and remove it. It will then come off into your hands. You will have to change over the stalks onto the new unit. this is done by depressing two clips on either side of the stalk and pulling it out. It has a little plug that will guide you. Put them back onto your new clock spring, making sure the clip into place, and the plugs are fully seated. Notice the new clock spring has a plastic guard over the plug. The clock spring comes pre-centred. Do not remove this until you are ready to place the steering wheel back onto the clock spring. This ensures it works for the range of motion of the wheel, and isn't 360 degrees out of alignment. To put your new assembly back on, plug in the three plugs, and tighten the two Phillips screws. Put the yellow airbag plug through the hole in the steering wheel, and plug the yellow earth, and grey steering wheel control plug back in. Make sure you put the steering wheel back on straight- there are guide markings. Tighten the 19mm nut firmly. Tuck the wires back into their holders. Carefully replace the airbag plug, and depress the black clip to secure the plug. Slide the airbag unit back onto the wheel, and secure it via the two torx fittings. Connect your battery, and go and turn your ignition on, but make sure you are not sitting in the drivers seat ( do it from outside the car, incase you have farked up...). Nothing explodes...? Good. Check all your stalk functions and horm works ok. Now, to clear the flashing light, follow the steps found in other posts, which is basically turn ign on, as soon as you see the airbag light go off, turn ign off, wait 5 secs turn ign on again, repeat this 4 or 5 times. Start the car and the airbag light should not be flashing. Have a beer.
  23. 2002 Nissan NM35 Stagea 250t RS Four 2.5lt V6 Turbo 206kw AWD Great Luxury Family Wagon with plenty of power and heaps of space. the back seats fold down and there is storage under the floor and in the side of the rear boot area. the roof has rails ready to mount roof racks. 7" pop up display with the car details e.g. fuel eco, compass and service intervals. (Currently in Japanese but can be converted to English) $10,500ono (open to offers) Only 126,000kms (recently serviced 500km ago) - Full Leather Interior - Dual Sunroofs - Clarion CZ209 head deck, Hands Free Phone, Bluetooth & USB - Full Bose stereo - Tiptronic Gearbox - Rare Cruise Control on Steering Wheel** - Rare Stereo Controls on Steering Wheel** - Factory Stagea Mats - 18' Nissan Mag Wheels - Climate Control - Reclining Rear Seats - Cup holders under rear seat - Split rear Tail Gate - Can open the glass part separately - Factory HID Head Lights with in cabin adjustment (Up and Down) - Fog Lights built into the head lights + Rear Fog Light - BC adjustable coilovers (Adjust the damper hard to soft)
  24. My M35 runs an aftermarket headunit direct to speakers and I've had this issue since I bought it years ago. Basically if I turn my music up loud it lasts a few minutes (sometimes a solid 15 minutes or so) but eventually all quality is dropped, volume decreases and gets fuzzy/low end gets cut etc. I always thought it's probably just a faulty head unit but I've since replaced it and I have the exact same issue. Any thoughts on what it could be/how to fix it? I don't even know where to start? It's just a standard head unit wired in (no amps, subs etc) Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  25. Sorry if this has been covered before, I can't recall reading anything. My M35 has a strange clunking/crunching sound at low speeds. It doesn't appear to happen at higher speeds (over 40) although I guess it's possible that I just can't hear it. To me it sounds like it's coming from the rear somewhere and also sounds like it is at the same point on the rotation of the wheel. ie whenever the wheel gets close to that same rotational position it clunks. It's been an issue for quite a long time and just haven't got around to working out the problem. Incase the issues are related; I also get chirps constantly (that I assume are from the ATTESA) and a year or so ago I lost my passenger side rear wheel on the highway so there's potential that there was some minor damage from that accident that is slowly getting worse? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, Thanks,
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