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Found 10 results

  1. Track day maintenance schedule Hello all! This has always been an interesting topic for me, but not one I can find a lot of info on. It would be great to get an idea of what kind of maintenance you guys do you on your cars each track day/race event. I'm not sure if what I am doing is enough, or overkill, or if i'm missing something critical which is important. I do mostly tarmac rally (up to 150km per day competitive) and some hill climbs/drifting/fun track days. To try and keep consistency across info i'll use sub headings: Frequency: Work: Frequency: Small service every event (events are either 1 or 2 days long) more major checks every 3-6 months or few events if I'm driving regularly Work: Small service: Engine oil and filter, wheels off the car and quick check for leaks/loose bolts/rubber boots, top up fluids if required Major service: Gearbox oil, brake/clutch fluid, thorough check of all bolts/inspection of parts for wear, pull out brake pads to check rotors/calipers etc Yearly (if not already done within 12 months): Air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, power steering fluid, coolant and diff oil (standard lsd) Should I be doing things more or less often? What is your maintenance schedule like? Cheers!
  2. Training courses on Car maintenance and body creation in sydney Hi, I currently have a full time job, but am interested in learning how to service cars (mechanical and electrical), create bodies for existing car (remodelling old cars), paint cars etc, and was wondering if anyone out there knows of course(s) that teach people these skills. I know a similar post was created in 2009. But I guess it's pretty outdated. Moreover I want to know if it's taught as a evening course. I would love to acquire a skill that interests me. i live in Sydney, so I saw few tafe courses out there but I am not sure if part time evening will be available and even if it is, I am not sure if if it requires industrial experience ( something that i cant obtain) Cheers
  3. I wish to know where to buy the above items, M10 fine thread. Aka Crown lock nuts, partial torque, uni-torque, Grover, Auto, Automotive, Elliptical offset to name the descriptors that I have found so far. (Flanged or non-flanged). I have searched the net & SAU in vain to find an Australian supplier or source reference. Can buy by the 100cwt., out of China lol. Or ; Does anyone have a part number for OEM Nissan M10 X 1.25 cone lock nuts or flared cone lock nuts? That could work. Yes I could use spring washers or nylocs but would prefer same as what was present on my suspension if possible. Thanks for reading. GW
  4. Does anybody know if a starter from a rb25 or sr20 or any other nissan starter motor can fit into a rb20det? mine is a bit failing. so need to replace soon. need info. cheers!
  5. Hey folks Anyone still or started to use Water wetter and plain old distilled water instead of Glycol/antifreeze for cooling requirements? I live in the tropics so will most definitely not require antifreeze component in coolant and apparently water wetter still has anti-corrosive properties as well as lubing the water pump internals etc... Is Redline the only ones who make Water Wetter in Oz? Not many seem to have heard of water wetters or deal with them for that matter....perhaps for good reasons?? I was planning on flushing out my system on the R32 GTST and my incoming bike as well - figured I would see if going water wetter would be a good idea. Seems to be the real deal but we'll see..
  6. hey guys, i just bought my ER34 and got an inspection before purchasing and know what needs fixing/touching up, and i was wondering if you guys knew any reputable skyline mechanics on the north shore. thanks heaps, James
  7. Hi! I'm servicing the RB20E on the R33 I just got. I went to SCA, got some Bosch spark leads, Part #B6080i. The book says they suit an RB20E from an R31, but it can't be too different, right? Anyway, the actual plug sockets are a lot longer on these leads than on my current ones, so the cables don't fit as nicely. I'd prefer to get new cables the same as my current ones to make sure my leads aren't going to pop off when I get on the loud pedal. Does anyone have a Part # for spark leads that are confirmed to fit R33 RB20E? Old mate at SCA checked online and these leads aren't listed for the R33, but they are listed for the R31. There are two other lead manufacturers with leads in the SCA system to suit this engine, and they are both listed for the R33 and the R31, so it stands to reason that these leads should fit both engines as well, but they're not a nice fit. Cheers, B.
  8. Hey all, So i was going through some of my service papers/receipts and booklets that were given to me when i purchased my car, and i found a couple of things that might be of use to some of you. Here they are: Engine Maintenance Schedule. Chassis & Body Maintenance Hope it helps, comments welcome regarding how accurate these are.
  9. I have an R33 GTS-T mid drift the p/s belt snapped lol i have the new belt 3PK845 (early model 33) but when i went to change the belt i noticed what looked like a slider to adjust the tension of the power steeering belt but as i loosened it off the pump and pulleys were still tight am i missing something? any help would be great need to be fixed asap
  10. Just a heads up, I suggest anyone with an S1 should check their rear calipers for freedom of movement and the condition of the larger (top as fitted) sliding pin. My partner broke one in her Dayz on Friday, and when we went to replace it and the pads (as the caliper had seized on an angle), the other one turned out to be broken also. Both were old fractures as shown by darkened/discoloured metal and corrosion. For whatever reason the passenger side piston housing rotated up off the pads and the piston pushed almost all the way out with the result being a near total lack of brakes. The only symptoms leading up to finding this were occasional brake squeak when moving at low speed, and a long pedal stroke in general. Both rear caliper slides had completely seized, and its my opinion the action of the piston is what broke the pins finally. The drivers side pin was so seized as to need to be punched out in a hydraulic press. The pins are available through Nissan ex-Melbourne and are approx $35 each, I would suggest purchasing a pair and replacing them.
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