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Hey everyone looking for a few R33 bits and pieces: - R33/34 SMIC with piping or reasonably priced R33 FMIC with piping - RB25DET dump/front pipe - R33 3" cat or turbo back exhaust (with or without tip/cannon/whatever else you have on the end) - RB25DET manifold WITH ext. gate - External wastegate (prefer 48mm but show me what you got) either pm on here email [email protected] call/text (prefer text first): 0458585306

Hi, Looking for a exhaust manifold preferably a 6 Boost as some are 25/26 compatible, but am open to other makes Must be: High mount Steam Pipe T3 flange Other Preferences: Single or Dual gate i don't mind. Prefer Twin Scroll Josh 0420971976 Sydney (would like pickup as i could inspect but am happy to pay postage)

WTB VIC RB25det exhaust manifold Hi guys, after a straight rb25det stock exhaust manifold. Preferably located in Melbourne s.e suburbs. If you have one you would part with, pm me. Thanks.

GTS-R R31 Exhaust Manifold I know it's a long shot, but I'm looking for the exhaust manifold for the gts-r r31 skyline. Thank you!

R34 gtt big power & big mods list With Rego No test pilots and time wasters!!! Gt35r anti surge vband turbo with braided lines and beenie Nistune computer tuned by pits Shiftkited tiptronic paddle shift 18inch pdw drift rims Nismo fully adjustable coilovers Drilled and slotted rotors 750cc injectors Chrome high mount manifold Turbosmart ultra gate 38mm external wastegate Turbosmart eboost 2 boost controller Custom 3inch turbo back exhaust Front mount monza cooler Mls cometic head gasket Head skimmed and acid dipped Arp head studs Gates belt and waterpump Splitfire coilpacks Walbro 355 fuel pump Triple gauge cluster Big alloy radiator Hid xenon lights Custom taillights and blinkers done by tsx auto style Custom paintjob done by tsx auto style $6k Full body kit Hicas lock bar Mongoose alarm with tracker data logger etc Alpine touch screen dvd sound system with moulded sub mono amp db speakers through out and proffesional sound deadning through out the whole car Climate control Dark tinted windows Lots more i have forgotten pls dont hesitate to call on 0409358911 My loss is your gain pls no time wasters cheers Swaps for turbo diesel 4wd to value of 20k Ss v8 turbo 4wd manifold holden ford subaru ute toyota alpine nismo

Hey guys anyone know a supplier who stocks RB25 Stainless Steel EX MAN Flanges? Thanks

Hey guys, Trying my luck.. Wondering if anyone is selling an HPI manifold for an rb25 turbo to suit stock location? Cheers

So i got a new rb20det and its running standard 20det sidemount turbo , i want to put my t3t4 back on but its ennificient on a 20 kicking in around 4000-7000k i heard if manifold is shortened it will kick in quicker and be more effecient , is this true and is it worth it ?

my goal is to break 500whp yet still be a weekend driver What i have greedy FMIC Apexi power intake kit Tein coilovers and dampener kit 52mill radiator Parts list. Q45 Airflow meter $100-150 Plenum , fuel rail, throttle body $1000 (for engine clean up only minimal performance increase) Walbro 400LPH $200 ECU I have a haltech platinum Pro ecu kit, let me know if I should upgrade this to make 500hp (370rwkw) Injectors 1000cc $1000-$1100 Carbon clutch twin plate with flywheel $2500 (for $300-500 more but can handle upto 800 hp, if anyone gets a gtt to 800 please fill out your will) Camsharft poncam type b $700 Cam pullys $350 And the big one GT35R turbo kit $4200 Whiteline sway bars $700 any tips or advice or different products i should buy?

Guide : RB26 Inlet manifold removal Hi. So after finding not too many detailed guides on removing the inlet manifold, some with missing pictures, I decided to have a go at it myself my way and do a guide as I went. This is not an easy job, however it is not impossible. Tools you will need will be various 3 inch, 6 inch 3/8" and 1/4" extension bars, Swivel and Telescopic ratchet, 10mm, 12mm socket. Stubby 10mm and 12mm spanners and stubby ratchet, and Uni-jointed 12mm socket, also long nose pliers of various sizes and angles. Screwdrivers flathead and phillips various. 1. Remove Igniter, Boost Solenoid, Washer Bottle, Fusebox Cover 2. Remove 2 x Fuel hoses, feed/return that are at the underside of the manifold, one goes to a regulator under the manifold, these will leak so you will need some sort of rubber caps to put over them to stop the leakage 3. Unbolt the fuel filter and swing it out of the way. 4. There will be 3 bolts holding the fuel pressure damper and hard-pipes (Pic in Step 2) on the underside of the inlet manifold. You can now remove the 2 little smal hoses that link these to the fuel rail. These are often on very tight and may need to be cut and replaced. You can now remove these hardpipes from under the manifold. Picture below of how the piece looks 5. There will be a large wiring corrugated conduit near the area of these fuel hardpipes that were removed. This is held on by a large plastic holder. Use a flathead screwdriver to unclip the conduit from this holder and lower the conduit. There will also be a cable tie holding a wiring conduit to a bunch of hoses and other things, this cable tie can be unclipped without cutting it 6. The conduit clip in step 5 is attached to a metal holder which is bolted to the inlet manifold. Feel around to see where the bolt is as it's quite difficult to get an idea of it's position, you will feel a "hook" like metal piece here too. Both this hook and the bracket for the conduit clip is held on by the same bolt. As you remove it, note it's orientation so you can put them back in the same way. Picture below shows the orientation, 7. Drain oil and remove oil filter 8. Now it's time to begin unbolting the ISCV from the manifold, this is a big aluminium block bolted to the underside of the manifold. The block is held directly onto the manifold by Three bolts facing upwards, two of which are seen in the photo Below, the third one is at the other side, you will have to feel for it. Remove the bolts shown in the picture, aswell as the hidden bolt not shown in the picture. You will also now be able to remove the clindrical shaped solenoid below the ISCV held on by the bottom 2 bolts shown in picture, it's held on by a gasket that needs to be replaced later, and also has an electrical connector Also remove the cable tie shown in picture below 9. At the rearmost part of the underside of the inlet manifold closer to the firewall there is 2 large hoses that slide onto ports on the manifold, remove the clamps for these using long-nose pliers or whatever method you can and slip the hoses off. There is also a brown plug, unplug it. 10. At the back of the inlet manifold, at the top there will be 2 large rubber hoses connected to hardpipes, remove these rubber hoses from the hardpipes 11. The hardpipes in above photo lead down under the manifold, to a metal coupler that holds them together and to the inlet manifold. You can see this coupler if you peer down the gap between the manifold runners. These hardpipes need to be unbolted either from the inlet manifold, or from the other bracket that holds them to the rest of the hosing assembly to allow the manifold to come out either with this entire pipe together, or without it. Option A - Remove inlet manifold with hardpipes attached. Remove bolt highlighted in yellow. This option is preferred if you can get to this bolt. Option B - Remove inlet manifold without hardpipes attached. Remove bolt that normally will be found in hole circled in red. If you chose this option this bolt will be a very difficult one to get to, requires stubby 1/4" ratchet and socket. You will also need to unbolt these hardpipes from the ISCV via flange held to ISCV by 2 bolts, there is a gasket here too (Highlighted Green) 12. Remove fuel rail and injectors 13. Remove throttle level assembly 14. Remove the large pressure hose from the front of the inlet manifold, loosen both clamps on it to allow the maximum movement. This one is very stubborn and prying to with a screwdriver aswell as spraying WD40 deep inside helps make it loose. You need to pull from the bottom right section of the hose, and pull upward and slightly diagonally. 15. Remove inlet manifold nuts. Here you risk losings washers. There is spring and flat washers. This is most likely to happen for the underside nuts. Here you can use a small magnet attached to a screwdriver, then contact the screwdriver to the stud just enough to pull the washers to your screwdriver/magnet combo. 16. Remove the vacuum hose hose and bracket that goes to the brake master assembly, this will give more clearance for the inlet manifold to slide out. 17. You can now slide the inlet manifold out.

Curious as to peoples first hand experience with the different brands, cometic, permaseal, OEM, durapro, tog, etc etc. As with most of the people in the world, one of my pet hates with my cars is something simple like the exhaust maifold gasket getting flogged out and have that infernal ticking noise and disgusting engine noise. Due to most people with skylines running big boost or big turbos, or pulling off the exhaust system to do maintenance, the gaskets usually get flogged out rather quickly compared to other "standard " cars. So I am curious to find out which products people tend to use and for what reasons. whether they be ease of access, price, performance, etc etc. Also curious as to other gaskets such as intake manifold, rocker covers and all others. So simply post a reply with which ones you use, how much they cost and why you use them and we will all be able to compare. Kind Regards, Michael

I have sold my GTR so no longer need the parts/spares. All parts are located in Brisbane south side, and inspections are welcomed, just message me on here or email me and I will try and get back to you as soon as I can. I will post at buyer's expense, so if you are located elsewhere and if you are interested, please contact me for a quote on freight. Images are located for all the parts here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/gallery/album/5783-classifieds-images/ Thank you. BCNR33 GTR Skyline RB26DETT Camshaft/Timing Covers One of the camshaft covers has been damaged with a part of it snapped off. $150 FJ20 Cylinder Head with front cover/oil pump Bare FJ20 cylinder head Front Cover with Oil Pump $500 Trust/Greddy Hard Intercooler Pipes http://www.trust-power.com/spec_swf/04cooling/1almi_intake_pipeset.htm Only have two of the pipes out of the set of four. $100 each Greddy T78 33D Turbo http://www.trust-power.com/spec_swf/02turbo/Turbo%20Chargers.htm Split pulse design, rated at 720hp Removed due to going to a twin turbo setup $1500 Greddy Type R Wastegate http://www.trust-power.com/02turbo/waste_gate_valve.html http://www.trust-power.com/spec_swf/02turbo/GReddy%20%20Waste%20Gate%20%20Valve.htm Removed due to going to a twin turbo setup $500 Greddy Type R Split Pulse High Mount Exhaust Manifold http://www.trust-power.com/02turbo/sus_turboex_manifold.html http://www.trust-power.com/spec_swf/02turbo/Sus.Turbo%20Ex.%20Manifold.htm Stainless Steel Split pulse design. Removed due to going to a twin turbo setup $1000 Greddy Heat Shield http://www.trust-power.com/02turbo/heat_insulator.html Removed due to going to a twin turbo setup $50 R33 GTR Dash Cluster Reason for removal was swapped out for an aftermarket cluster. Has 26,000km on Odometer. $300 R33 GTR Fuel Pump Controller $50 R33 GTR YAW Rate Sensor $100 R33 GTR RB26DETT Alternator $100 BCNR33 GTR Skyline N1 Centre Triple Gauge Cluster R33 GTR N1 centre triple gauge cluster Worked perfectly before being removed from the vehicle $100 Nissan Skyline GTR RB26DETT Carbon Fibre Timing Belt Cover Unknown Brand I impulse bought it when I was in Japan. $50 Nismo Skyline BCNR33 Series 3 Front under Diffuser http://www.nismo.co.jp/products/catalogue_2014/#page=265 Genuine Nismo S-Tune aero body kit front under bumper spoiler for the Skyline BCNR33 R33 GTR Nismo S-Tune front bumper. Paid around $1000 and then realized it wouldn’t fit! $500 Nissan Skyline BCNR33 GTR N1 RB26DETT Air Box and Snorkel Nissan Skyline BCNR33 GTR N1 Air Box and Snorkel K&N Air Filter $250 RB26DETT Air Flow Meters These were working fine before being removed from the vehicle, one is genuine and one looks aftermarket. $100 for the pair Trust/Greddy 3.7” “Power Extreme” Ceramic Coated Stainless Steel Exhaust with Custom Front/Dump Pipe Hardly used, was only pulled off due to going back to a twin turbo setup on the car. Custom made dump/front pipe to suit 4 Bolt turbo exhaust flange. No catalytic converter. $600 KSP Racing Equipment / Attain Carbon Kevlar Rear Bumper Cover to suit Nissan Skyline R33 GTST or GTR http://www.ksp-eng.co.jp/ATTAIN/exterior/36.html Brand New still in box KSP/Attain Brand Carbon Kevlar $150 Rasty FRP Boot for Skyline R33 GTR/GTS-T http://www.rasty.tv/pro/trunk.html Flat Truck Style painted in QM1 White Some Cracks in the paint where the wing was mounted. Very light $450 R33 GTR Front Lower Arms Stock R33 GTR Front lower arms with ball joints. $150 for the pair Nismo Clear Indicators Brand New Still in Box. $80 R33 GTR R200 Competition Diff Brand New Cusco 2 way Center Brand New Crown Well and Pinion Trust/Greddy Extended High Capacity Diff Cover http://www.trust-power.com/16power_train/diff_cover.html http://www.trust-power.com/spec_swf/05engine/DiffCover_Up_Grade_Kit.htm Diff Cover has also been modified to clear a close fitting exhaust 4.11 Ratio $2000 R32 GTR Dash Speedo Reason for removal was only due to being swapped out for an aftermarket cluster. 52,000km on Odometer. $250 R32 GTR Factory Suspension Inserts and springs. They were removed while they were still in good working cond. $400 R33 GTR ABS Unit Removed from the car only due to installing a pedal box set up. $250 R33 GTR Washer Bottle and Motors Very good condition. $50 R33 GTR RB26DETT Cylinder Head Complete cylinder head with coil packs. Was running perfectly and was only pulled off the engine with the intent to build the bottom end, never happened. $1250 RB26DETT Ind. Throttle Bodies and Plenum. Was running perfectly and was only pulled off the engine with the intent to build the bottom end, never happened. $400 RB26 Starter Motor Was working perfectly and was only pulled off the engine. $100 R33 GTR Sump and Factory Front Diff Was running perfectly and was only pulled off the engine with the intent to build the bottom end, never happened. $300

Hey guys & gals, this is my first post A little bit about myself before I get started. I'm 16, soon to be 17 and provisionally licensed. Looking at a R32 GTS-T as a first car. I've been surrounded by cars since I was born (Grandparents into rodding) so I do know how cars work, how engines work, suspension, brakes, upgrades etc. However, I saw these images on a previous thread and they caught my attention. Due to the amount of controversy about RB20 intake manifolds and low torque due to shorter runners etc, these images really had me interested. If anyone could shed some light on the process of doing this, how hard, what is needed, if it's even worth it? That would be very very much appreciated.

For anyone interested in buying a new plenum, Custom plenum creations (cpc) have a group buy going on at the moment. The thread is on calaisturbo.com but i'm sure there wouldn't be a problem if SAU members want in on it too. thread here>>> http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?p=3011196#post3011196 <<

Twin Scroll T3 Go Pipes 32mm turbo exhaust manifold RB25 twin wastegate For sale is A Go Pipes rb25 t3 twin scroll manifold 32mm Twin 40mm gate 2 or 3 tiny holes in weld on flange, can see a black spot in pic $800 ono Pickup gold coast

Hi Guys Can anybody tell me if the rb20det and rb25det exhaust manifolds are interchangable?

Hey guys, hope you’re all good. I have an obnoxious sounding vacuum leak somewhere under my throttle body. It’s very bad and throws out the car terribly, so it’s off the road and I’m addressing ASAP. There is no issue around the TB itself and I don’t see any kind of issue around the fuel rail or injector seats, so I’m assuming it may actually be either the upper plenum gasket, the lower inlet manifold gasket, or perhaps an idle control hose underneath the manifold somewhere. To the point of my thread - if I can not locate any obvious leak, I will be pulling off the intake to replace the gaskets. Should I get so far as to pulling off the lower intake, I was just wondering if anyone had tips or advice to share? Specifically regarding how and what to disconnect in regards to coolant hoses, vacuum hoses, etc, and if there are any tricks to any of the bolts? Ive searched extensively on this topic but most threads only cover the upper plenum and I’m looking for any general helpful tips to removing the whole thing. So far my plan is to remove the TB, the fuel rail, then upper plenum - raise the front of the car up and just see what I can attack from the bottom. Assume that’s the best method? Thanks in advance!

Hi everybody Looking to upgrade the inlet manifold on my rb30dett and just wanting to know if there's any options beyond hypertune out there that might fit my requirements. Specifically: 1) I definitely will be retaining the 6 x ITBs. 2) I want to run a 100mm/4" inlet diameter, in anticipation of going to a full 4" intercooler and turbo outlet system once I convert to a single turbo. The last time I looked into this hypertune seemed to be the only item that could meet these requirements but I thought that since then something else might have entered the market. I basically want a nice big plenum with a quality, machined face to bolt on, seals properly, that flows nicely and distributes flow to the rear cylinder. The hypertune price range would be the upper end of what I'm hoping to pay and if anyone can recommend a good Australian distributor that I can chat to that would be great. Also, are there any issues I might have particularly with a deck height that is now +38mm, eg: clearance with clutch mcs etc - I'm already assuming I may need to go to an r33 style clutch mc. I am currently running the factory fuel rail with 1000cc injectors but all the ones I've seen have factory mounts for the rail as well. But any other tips on clearances and fitment etc would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hey guys Sold my car and have some parts that never got a chance of using and some OEM used ones, basically a garage clean out will keep adding as i find more stuff. 1) Brand New in unopened box CST Type Vettel V36 coilovers fully adjustable with 14k front and 9k rear spring rates and 16 way damper. These are made in Japan and distributed by Tanabe. $1500 ono (pic of suspension out of box from google, i havent opened my box yet) 2) Blitz Power-sus intake panel filters also BNIB $120 3) V36 Type S and SP front lip kit ( Fibreglass sides with CF middle part, see pics) $550 ONO 4) RS-S LowDown springs BNIB $400 5) OEM Used Exhaust axle back Muffler and y-pipe $100 6) OEM Used Manifold $100 (good for anyone needing to send one into z1motorsports as core unit) 7) OEM Used rear chrome bootlip $50 8) OEM Used 18" V36 Coupe wheels made by enkei in excellent condition need tires $500 9) OEM Used 18" V36 Sedan Type SP wheels also in excellent condition (front tires good, rears need replacing) $500 10) BNIB plug and play V36 cruise control kit (comes with a little wheel knob that can be used to set/cancel and increase/decrease speed see pics) $500 ONO Thats all from the top of my head, like i said if i find more stuff ill keep adding. Offers only accepted if i have put an ONO next to the price or else its non-negotiable. PM will be the best way for enquiries and everything located Southwest of Brisbane

Hi, trying to look for a good coolant hose kit to replace on my rb25det Non neo. All the small coolant hoses under the intake manifold and heater hoses, had a look on kudos and couldn’t find anything. Ebay only showed hoses from China and not really a fan of getting cheap quality products. Anyone have an idea of where to get a full hose kit?

So I am making this post as I've searched the forums, and the posts I could find aren't fitting my personal situation. I've already got all the supporting mods for my turbo upgrade, Front facing Plenum, 6boost turbo/ exhaust manifold with T3 fitting, 1000cc injectors, walbro 460 fuel pump, all the gaskets you could dream for, electric boost controller (Already in), Blitz Nur Spec R exhaust, and a front mount intercooler. I've tried making another post elsewhere on these forums reguarding a turbo upgrade, and said post got closed as apparently it's totally fine for people to insult a build, but it's not ok for people to make a new post on a forums, asking for help to suit their situation. My build is unique to 99% of builds on here, I am getting all my modifications engineered and permitted accordingly. I'll be installing all the mods myself, making sure they all apply to the legal standards (Plumbing back to exhaust, emissions) and then I'll be paying an engineer to get it certified. For the turbo upgrade, I am wanting a minimum of 350HP, but I'm looking at around 400- 450HP. The turbo that I require will have to be with a T3 housing (I know garrett give the option for a lot of their turbos to suit multiple fittings). I have no experience with turbos at all, as my skyline is the first performance car I've owned. If someone could give some serious suggestions, someone who knows what they're talking about when it comes to cars, as to what Turbo is good, and what to avoid, that would be amazing. Also, forgot to mention, but I want this turbo for street performance, and a bit of track time, possibly drifting every now and then on track, so I'm not 100%, but I think that would mean I need a responsive turbo with high boost at low RPM? Cheers!

HI, selling stock rb25 turbo froma s2 in perfect condition. Comes with heat shield, dump pipe and oxygen sensor. Very clean, run perfectly. Zero shaft play. $400 Also selling rb25 stock manifold w heat shield also in perfect nick. $80 Grant 0410698980

Hey guys Have for sale a T3 turbo (china) good for around 300 and and a bit more HP (not big and laggy .63 rear housing). Comes with oil drain house and lines into a RB block to fit it. RB20/25 Highmount manifold (never used) Turbosmart 38mm external gate with 14PSI spring Selling it because it came from a engine i bought but am using all my own stuff instead of this as i already had the bits i need. Price: $350 Location: Gold Coast QLD Ph: 0433 200 198

Genuine Greddy Intake manifold to suit rb25. Comes with a q45 90mm throttle body attached. Very good condition $700 In syd Please excuse the dirty fingerprints on the manifold. It actually looks new when clean.

Aftermarket Fuel Rail to suit greddy intake manifold anodized purple, selling due to buying a set of injectors which came with a billet rail $60 RB25 top mount stainless exhaust manifold, used and heat wrapped $200 RB25 clutch fan $60 RB25 air conditioning pump and condenser (may have some lines) $40 R33 passenger window reg/rail $40 R33 series 1 mint dash $30 R33 central locking motors $40 the pair Hicas ecu $40 R33 stock rims 2 tyres near brand new other 2 barely legal $150 R33 series 2 wing silver $40 send me a pm and your number if you want pics located northern suburbs SOUTH AUSTRALIA