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Found 178 results

  1. SkyLine_Tyson

    Hi my name is Tyson I want to ask a few questions about manual to auto swaps. So I am planing on buying a series 1 r33 that is manual turbo. Since I am on my p’s I have a series 2 r33 that really clean but it’s auto (N/A) and wanted to know if it would possible to just swap the auto from my series 2 to the series 1 am i able to switch the looms for both cars. or are the transmission looms to different between series 1 and 2?
  2. If anyone needs the complete english Workshop manual for this engine i have it and am happy to share it with you, in pdf form. Cooling system https://ufile.io/7b31q Engine control https://ufile.io/ltv1r Engine Mechanical https://ufile.io/8ygvm Exhaust https://ufile.io/fny97 Lubrication https://ufile.io/ao98k Starting system https://ufile.io/znhl7 says it will expire in 30days let me know if you need it reuploaded. please keep it on the dl as not sure about the legalities behind sharing it.
  3. Looking to buy a non turbo p plate legal R34 skyline coupe. Preferably white or bayside blue. Must be manual and a series 1 (1998-1999). email/pm me to contact me.
  4. Tastagea

    so i need to remove the radiator from my 250t rs four which has been converted into a 6 speed manual out of a 350z. it is still using the stock radiator so it has lines going into the radiator for cooling the transmission from when it was an auto. So, are the transmission lines connected at the bottom to the two brass fittings? (photo attached for reference) these have nothing attached to them so i am not sure what they are for, other than that. i think i may be mistaking the transmission fluid lines for something else as the lines I want to remove are on the passengers side of the radiator and coming off the side of it. this photo shows the lines i need to remove. Any help would be appreciated. cheers
  5. Hey guys I would like to get a manual conversion for a r31 or even a cheap manual car. Located in melbs Cheers from joel
  6. Full ad: http://bit.ly/4doorad – Photos: http://bit.ly/4doorpics ^^^ If viewing on the SAU app please tap the image and select View in Gallery Note: This is a replacement thread for the original EOI: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469494-eoi-the-ultimate-r34-family-hybrid-for-street-and-track-275rwkw/ ... Asking $19,500 with some exclusions, please see the full ad. PM for further details.
  7. Hi guys/gals! I'm trying to figure out a strange sound coming from my Skyline. Every so often, say, once every 3 or 4 times I reverse out of my garage, I hear an awful sound coming from under the car. I equate it to a slipping belt, but a lower tone. It sticks around for maybe 10 seconds, and goes away. No issues driving as of yet, no clicking/grinding. It's just a loud howl and I want to address it before it gets worse. Has anyone had this issue by chance? I was asking some friends local to me and they figure throw out bearing is failing. Ideas? Car is a '93 GTSt coupe with 165k K's on it.
  8. Just need someone or few people to give me a hand to convert my r34 sedan auto to manual All parts supplied Can $$ for work
  9. Hello guys, I picked up a nice little 2003 350GT-8 with a buggered CVT gearbox, I fitted a secondhand CVT gearbox but was unable to rectify the faults. After about 1 year of spending time trying to find the faults, I decided I would make the leap and convert the sedan to a 6MT from a 350Z. Please try and refrain from writing things like "WHY DIDNT YOU JUST BUY A MANUAL TO START WITH" etc etc. I don't care. The car cost me $1500 licensed and all, and 2k for the conversion. Still cheaper than buying a 350 6MT. This post will contain as many photos as possible as I progress through the build. This will be continually updated as I complete the stages. I have never been able to find out about mounting the handbrake lever, or the legalities on cutting the transmission tunnel out to fit the gearbox. I hope to provide some light on these matters for the next person to take on the conversion project. Removed CVT and threw it in the skip bin. Best feeling of my life. GOOD RIDDANCE. Removed the following; Carpet (needed a clean anyway) Front and rear seats Center console HVAC and anything in my way Witing harness Airbag module, Gyro & Traction control module. (NOTE ANYTHING WITH YELLOW PLUGS IS SRS AIRBAGS, MAKE SURE BATTERY UNPLUGGED ALSO DO NOT FLIP OVER THE SRS MODULE FROM UNDER THE CONSOLE, IF YOUR BATTERY IS CONNECTED OR IT HAS CHARGE IT WILL SET OFF YOUR AIRBAGS. IVE SEEN IT DONE. VERY DANGEROUS.) Brackets and really anything you see is going to slow you down. Mock fitted the console and handbrake assembly to see the alignment. Measured gearbox to the tunnel. Pictures of the handbrake assembly and how it DOES NOT match anything on the original tunnel, I guess you could make up a few brackets and cut some holes but that is dodgy and I want this thing to be as good as factory when I am done. I have a manual tunnel from a 350Z, I have decided to remove the inner skin that has the moulding for the manual trans and the handbrake that I require. Once done will be as simple as bolting it all onto the new inner skin as per factory. I was able to drill out the spot welds with a Spot weld cutter available for $20 its like a little hole saw. I have a qualified boilermaker / engineer on hand to weld the skin into the cars existing tunnel. There are A LOT of little spot welds not marked with arrows, the arrows are just pointing out a few of the ones I started to cut out. More photos and info to come! Thanks
  10. R34GTT up for sale. Have been driving this one as my daily for the last 4 years without a single hiccup, and only selling as its time to get a new toy. Has some typical stone chips in front bumper i never got around to fixing, but overall pretty nice considering the age of the vehicle. Always ran on 98 fuel, and never boosted over 12psi. Last tune it came in at 270hp at 10psi. List of mods etc below. Alpine bluetooth deck / 6' speakers SPITFIRE coil packs, HKS Front mount intercooler, HKS 15psi wastegate actuator, HKS ssqv blow off valve, GREDDY/TRUST Arnix pod filter with custom stainless intake pipe, Custom exhaust system (3"down pipe, high flow cat, 3.5" cat back), EXEDY heavy duty ceramic button clutch with machined flywheel, PORCHE BREMBO front 4 pot brake calipers and rotors, Cwest earth grounding kit, Only filled with 98 octane New battery BLITZ SBC i-D electronic boost controler, BLITZ power meter i-D, Auto watch alarm system with interior and exterior sensors, Project Mu pedals, Genuine Nissan skyline floor mats. Full Bomex bodykit fitted NISMO carbon fibre pillars, Ganador side mirrors, Cwest wing (easily removable), Factory sunroof - working perfectly, Factory xenon hid headlights Black racing pro N1 Japanese wheels (front 17x8 31 & rear 17x9 38), Nismo Circuit Link Pro Ultimate Set (suspension control arms, caster rods etc), HKS hypermax drag coilovers, Factory strut brace and cusco rear strut brace. It comes with papers for full history since import including every receipt and documents since landing in Australia! It is clean inside and out and drives beautifully. reasonable offers will be considered but low ball offers will be ignored. All test drives will be performed by me until genuine offer is given (I am sure you can understand why with a performance vehicle) Selling for $17500 neg. Contact: Aaron. 0402155000 trippdoll@hotmail.com
  11. Nissan Skyline R34 GTT 2.5l Turbo Manual Coupe (Winton tow photo was from the end of the life of the previous motor <3 ) Year 2000 165xxx kmsEngine 80xxx kmsEngine -Stock rb25det neoNew oem coilpacksNew spark plugs (bkr6es)Stock turbo boostedTurbosmart boost teeZ32 Airflow Meter (genuine) - recently replacedNistune ECU tuned by RM performance in ringwood. 170rwkw at stock boostWalbro 460 fuel pumpFull turboback exhaust from Japan. Very quiet around town until you get to high revsAll new filtersBlitz front mount intercoolerNew power steering rackRecent replaced starter motorBodyQM1 WhiteFactory nismo altia front bumperFactory nismo altia rear bumperFactory nismo altia side skirtsGenuine r34 GTR spoiler (adjustable)Bluetooth head unit with aux etcExtra speaker for hands freeRare factory Nissan floor matsConcave concept cc03r wheels 18*9/ 18*10Yokohama advan A048 tyresFull slideworx adjustable arms availableSlideworx front coiloversZeal function rear coiloversRuns and drives beautifullyHas 9 months VIC rego
  12. Hey guys, Thought I'd drop an update on the 6MT swap on my 2002 350gt-8.. On Saturday I dropped the diff, driveshaft & CVT with the help of a friend & only nearly killed him once with the cvt falling off the jack hahaha. Got it done in about 2.5-3hrs with a few hours prep I did the weekend before. Prep like drop exhaust, remove most of the bellhousing bolts, CVT clutch lines, loosen what driveshaft bolts I could etc. The most difficult parts were the little things really, remove this to get to that etc. Going through the CVT inspection plate to remove the X (I forgot what its called- between flywheel/torque convertor) otherwise the torque converter will still be attached and fighting the removal of the gearbox. Removed started motor, cable tied it aside to spin and wedge the X to get to the bolts through the inspection plate. Also removed the CVT dipstick & a loom bracket to get bellhousing bolts off from the top inside engine bay. Didn't have to touch the interior just left it in neutral to rotate driveshaft, disconnected gear linkage, was a peice of cake actually. I have a question though.. I sourced a CD001 6MT through this forum like at least 3 years ago for 1k before I knew of the difference. Is it possible to rebuild a CD001 so it has synchros like a CD009 or at least strengthen it?? also I've watched a bunch of youtube vids and I'm getting the impression that it's better to weld an open diff over a VLSD. Can anyone explain why this is please? Also have a 2003 350z VLSD I'm installing along with Whitline bushings essentials kit. Will measure up the driveshaft when 6MT & diff are installed. Next up is to prep the Z1 clutch for install, remove auto flywheel, rear main seal if required etc, solid bushings, interior prep, prep 6MT crossmember, install 6MT, short shifter etc, handbrake relocation(the cable is already right where it needs to be running through the tranny tunnel), clutch/brake pedal install then once that's all done scratching my head for a day maybe dealing with electronics hehe.. Just goto bridge the neutral safety switch and figure out reverse lights I think.. I'm going by this thread below mainly. But didnt even look at it when getting into the job, basically just unbolt remove whats in the way and drop whats needed. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/552038-5at-to-6mt-swap-info-diy-guide-thread.html Yes I'm more than likely forgetting a lot, but it's pretty straight forward. Having my mechanic friend there for really helped figuring out the inspection plate X removal & with tips for getting more leverage/using the car to our advantage. Like loosening the axel shaft bolts with the 2nd spanner pinned up against the sway bar, removing the the driveshaft still attached to the diff as we didnt have the 8mm allen key tool required for the diff side driveshaft. ALL THIS WAS DONE ON WITH THE CAR ON JACK STANDS WITH BASIC TOOLS BTW...I'm waiting on an order from the USA- 'Never Ending Details'. DO NOT USE THIS COMPANY. They f**king suck. Barely any communication, Took ages to ship (nearly 2 months) and that's with me threatening them with a VISA dispute. Anyways just thought I'd add my experience with them. Pretty much follows the multiple bad reviews I've read online, same shit. The order was for flywheel/pressure plate bolts/various peices as it was a lot cheaper than going through Nissan (eg $17.50 VS ~$2 for 1x OEM flywheel bolt) I'm stoked the hard part is pretty much over. More room for activities now hehehe. BTW, the goal for this car is to make it into a nice street/semi drift capable car, with strut bracing/chassis reinforcement, coilovers, camber/angle mods & maybe a plenum spacer/intake being on the cards. Already has a mean sounding full borla exhaust & headers from the previous owner + ditch the wack bob jane special rims for some lightweight Rays TE37's. This car has been sitting for 3-4 years so I'm feeling really accomplished and excited to get her on the road again I will try to keep you guys updated. Cheers, Seb
  13. Hey fellas, so recently purchased a 92 gtst rolling shell and it seem as tho it has an auto dash, it has had an SR and an RB25 in it before has modplates and was last registered with a sr20 in it, so my problem is will i run into any problems when i go too put a RB25 in it? is there anything that can be dodgy about auto conversions that i should check on or is there anyway i can tell if has been? can post pics if need be,Cheers.
  14. Neat and tidy Sonic Silver, 1996, Series 2, Manual, 4 Door Skyline with a genuine 273 RWKW. (Northern NSW) (Some may recognise this vehicle from these forums) This car is an excellent example and it has been a joy to own. Very reliable Canberra Car imported locally in 2002. 210,000Kms. Just moved to the Northern Rivers Area (Lismore, Lennox Heads-Alstonville) which is where it is now. Great condition for it's age, and always serviced every 5000kms with quality products. Perfect for those who want an import while keeping the missus happy with doors for kids and groceries. Mature owner. Modifications are: -Genuine Garrett 3071 Turbo with braided lines and aluminum intake pipe. -Vi-Pec Engine Management System, tuned by ESP in Queanbeyan -Front-mount Intercooler -Upgraded 040 fuel pump -Upgraded 700cc (approx) injectors -Split-fire coil packs -Heavy duty clutch -Full X-Force exhaust system -Biggest pod filter you have ever seen -Re-shimmed and serviced LSD Diff -Whiteline swaybars front and rear with new knuckles -DBA slotted brake rotors, braided lines and Project-Mu Pads Body has a few scratches consistent with it's age, but I recently had the front and rear bar resprayed. Interior: - Great JVC stereo with new speakers all round and a pro-installed amplifier. Includes bluetooth. - Turbo Timer - New gearshift and handbrake leather boots Servicing: - Timing belt, water pump, idler pulley replaced at 198,000 - Serviced every 5000K's with Castrol Edge 10-60 - Recently serviced gearbox with new fluid -Re-shimmed and serviced LSD Diff - Regularly detailed with Dodo wax products Miscellaneous: - New battery - Really beautiful dark tint - Ice cold air-conditioning Spare set of wheels available aswell.
  15. Two faults with my v36 So I have two faults with my v36 manual coupe and wondering if this is a common thing. One is the clutch sticking to the floor on spirited take off's and the second is axle/driveline shudder or bounce with wheel spin on certain surfaces. The worst of the two is the clutch that I'm pretty sure is a clutch slave cyclinder problem... Again!! When I got the car I found that the clutch felt fine until on the occasions I did a spirited take off with some revs/throttle and "clutch control" (not riding ha ha) for a good take off. The clutch would stick half way to the floor until I either backed off or pulled the pedal back manually. I nursed the clutch from then as occasionally the clutch would slip when this happened. Absolutely no problem with the clutch on normal driving, nor full throttle when the clutch was fully out. Just couldn't give full throttle before the clutch was out. Anyway, so after they changed the clutch fluid, then the master cylinder it came down to the slave cylinder which fixed the problem. Scored a new stock clutch plate out of it as well as the master cylinder which didn't need replacing. Problem is it has now come back after less than 20k. I don't usually abuse the clutch however, with reviews matching on down shifts and usually low revs to take of so not riding the clutch. Thing is I have driven manual for most of my life and neither of my s15 had this problem with the last one close on 200kw at the wheels. Is the v36 slave cylinder really this weak or have I just had bad luck? My take off's aren't that abusive. Just the odd spirited take off I'd expect any performance car to be capable of on occasions. The other problem is the shudder (feels like the old school axle tramp on a live axle car) I get occasionally on minor wheel spin with traction turned off. It doesn't always happen, and it can often happen on minor wheel spin on take off. I've had it in the wet multiple times as well. I've got some decent high performance tyres (pilot sport 4S) but this also happened on the re050a when they were rat sh!t grip near the end of their life. Could this be bush wear or something? I've got stick suspension except I have whiteline adjustable sway bars in it (although it did with the stock sway bars).
  16. When in neutral, i push clutch right in, and give it some revs. 3500-5000rpm it grinds. Even when its in a gear and clutch right in, rev and it grinds. And when driving, changing gears at high revs grinds. If i let revs drop to 2000-3000rpm its no worries. 1993 nissan skyline r33 GTsT. Manual, single turbo. RB25DET.
  17. SLIPERYGECKO

    Hi I’m after a r31 manual conversion kit in Adelaide can anyone help? Cheers ph 0407908059
  18. Hi all, Time to get things rolling. Looking to buy a GTT soon, so here's my criteria. Show me your car if you're willing to sell! 1. Budget of 14k - cannot stretch much further 2. Black, red or yellow I don't mind - if you have white or silver then you're welcome to save us both some time and don't need to offer. 3. Manual 4. Coupe 5. If possible, nismo kit. 6. Lightly modded (BOV, air filter, exhaust) or stock is preferable - no major engine mods wanted. And last of all, I'm in Sydney, NSW but am willing to travel to ACT/VIC if I must (but this may be a lot more hassle than necessary - but for the right car I'm sure it'll be worth it) PM me if you have something that suits me!
  19. hi guys, i have a 2001 Toyota Corolla Sedan, 117300kms, used on weekends due to using public transport to commute to work, and living walking distance to train station. 2nd Owner, Female Owners and been in family since new from Toyota. Currently i've owned this car for the best of 5 years. Car has Air Conditioning, Front Power Windows, Serviced every 5-6000kms, 5 speed Manual Transmission, 1.8 Twin Cam VVT-i engine. Good Tyres, Immaculate Interior, Body Faultless. Car has Genuine Toyota Headlight and Bonnet Protectors, Windshields & Boot Spolier, Genuine Floor & Dash Mats, Power Steering, Central Locking and Security, Tan Interior and Brand New Battery. Reg Till Feb 2013. No Roadworthy Supplied, but wont need anything to my knowledge to pass an inspection. Selling due to new job with Brand New company car provided. Will be sad to see it go, has been a great and reliable car. No Scamers or Time Wasters Please. $8500 0423 339 770
  20. yoitsnones

    for sale is a reconditioned sr20det manual gearbox. i bought it a few months ago under the impression that it was an rb20 box, so it's no use to me. i haven't used it, but my mechanic has fully checked over it and checked every gear and has confirmed it is in very good working order. pick up only from redlands/brisbane/logan area, wherever is easiest for buyer. $600 or swaps with an rb20det box in the same good working condition as this! will upload photos of it soon.. please text or email only, as i usually cannot answer calls; wenonalouise@hotmail.com or 0431754784
  21. Hi All, Time has come for me to part with this Nissan Skyline HCR32 1989 Matte Black. I&#39;ve owned it for over a year but I am planning to go overseas and cannot afford to put anymore time, money and effort into building this car into what I wanted it to be. Goal was to reach 300kw and be a great daily as well. So close! Anyway, THE GOOD: Serviced 2,000kms ago with royal purple oil Standard RB25 head with RB30 bottom - Capable of roughly 380kw. Standard manifold HKS Fuel Rail 550cc injectors Aftermarket Plenum 100ml Throttle body Aftermarket front mount intercooler from JustJap APEXI POWER FC with hand controller Aftermarket Turbo 3 inch custom catback exhaust with cannon muffler 3 inch custom piping all round custom air filter piping brakes machined and new pads turbosmart street eboost controller Volk GT-P 17" Racing rims new Kumho Tyres done like 1,000km (not sure which) I'll also throw in a set of chromes that was on the car when I bought it HID Lights Reconditioned rb20 Gearbox new slave and master cylinder The interior was done last year with suede ceiling and looks great! Momo steering wheel Standard Diff. All oil levels have been checked and are all full and healthy. power windows sound system boost gauge original skyline mats momo gear knob turbo timer The car is registered until 31st December 2012. The car has also been blue slipped with the new engine in last year. THE BAD: Turbo is in good condition, but is internally gated. Needs external wastegate to produce easy 250kw. Was running 18psi but it is now limited to 10psi @ 220kw and is safe to drive as is, there is almost no knock in the engine which is really good. Power steering fluid leaking really slowly. Broke off the door mirror accidently. I have it on with some glue and tape atm couldn't find time to replace. The car is painted in Plastidip. For those who don't know what that is, please go on youtube and watch it. The car looks amazing in Matte black, but I need to spray on another coat for the car to look perfect. Chassis has done 218xxx kms, but body of the car is very straight and rigid. two little chips on the windscreen. Done the O'Brien window repair on them so it is safe. If you choose to push the car any further than 250kw, you should consider a rb25 gearbox and a stronger diff. But you should be more than satisfied with its current performance. Couldn't find time to go and buy an oil catch can and install it, not urgent but good idea to get one asap. I had great drives and cruises with this car, never did anything to hurt it or ruin anything. Really don't want to sell this and I really did want to make this special. Investments in the future are more important for me atm but I wish to do this all over again. In total, I bought the car last year for $10,000, spent over $8,500 on rego, mechanics, etc and just needed to spend a few thousand more to get it to be one lethal car. Highways have pulled me over three times and did not defect me, and I can provide roadworthy if needed. I really need to get rid of this ASAP, so I'm not going any lower than $8,000. Please don't bother low-balling me, as I am sick and tired of getting stupid offers from people. I know what this car is capable of and I will price it accordingly. Road legal, not loud, flashy and attention seeking. Great car and I will miss it.
  22. Hi Guys Urgently need to sell my supra. Its a 1994 model, 167,000km, 5spd manual with factory 2JZ-GE (167kW + mods) $7999 Cheapest clean one around for sure, Goes very quick for an NA, not a dent anywhere, very tidy. Has december rego and ive completed a RWC, if you have the cash can be taken away then and there. All forms required are here. I've priced it very fair, give her a new of wheels and front lip and you've got a bargain Supra that looks killa! The only thing it wants is a decent fitting gear boot for the shifter and a clip for the upper glovebox. Both should be no more than $20 each, the rest is 100%! Genuine HKS filter + AFM (only ever seen 1 other) Kokimoto exhaust from Japan No leaks or knocks, dead smooth motor Goes quick, looks great HID's Plenty of doof doof for the sound buffs Heaps of other stuff, just replaced fan belts and valve cover gaskets, got receipts for both and timing belt done at 100,000km I need this car gone, $7999 might throw in stamp duty if I can get a quick sale. Phone Geoff on 0433025530 - Cheers
  23. Testing the waters to see if I can sell my 1993 R32 gtst again. Its manual and has been looked after, but with a little bit more TLC this 32 will be a stand out more than it already is. Just wanting to see if anyone was interested in taking this off me as I would like to put some money into my business although not in a rush to let go. ENGINE: - Freshly rebuilt with standard internals, decked and honed with clean up of head and has driven only 3000kms. (since i bought it (december 2011), it has spent most of its time under a car cover in my backyard as i also have a daily) - ACL race bearings and rings - Triple cometic metal head gasket - Yellow jacket coilpacks - R32 "semi highflowed" turbo. has different compressor wheel and rear housing has had machining done to match a much bigger exhuast wheel. core of turbo is also different. normal bearing. took to Dr Drift for inspection and once tuned, he believes it should make a healthy 200rwkws. - Braided turbo oil line - 3.5 inch jasma exhaust (quiet but not restrictive) - 43mm Alloy radiator - Return flow intercooler sprayed black (no holes drilled in chassis) - Z32 AFM on custom cooler piping - Cam gears - DRIFT catch can - Denso 650cc injectors and Bosch 040 fuel pump - Belts including timing belt has been recently changed. - New waterpump - think there is other things also but can't remember ECU: - Nistune ECU with tune from Chasers Motorworks although will need to be retuned since rebuild has been done and turbo set up changed (used to have high mount hyper gear atr43) Suspension and Driveline: - GAB height adjustable coilovers on front and CUSCO height adjustable coilovers on rear - Front and rear strut braces - Pretty sure all bushes have been changed to polyurethane bushes (red). - Pineapples on rear - Stripped WHOLE HICAS system and installed lock bar. - Shimmed up standard LSD - Exedy Heavy duty clutch kit - R32 GTR sway bars - some other things but cannot remember also Brakes and Wheels: - New brake pads front and rear - DBA slotted and dimpled front and rear brake rotors - Braided brake lines - Comes with standard R32 gtst wheels sprayed black with tyres. Exterior: - Darkest legal window tint - GTR style front bar with lip area sprayed black - GTR grille and genuine aluminum bonnet - GTR spoiler and boot lip (gtr spoiler taken off but available, no holes in boot) - Dmax roof spoiler - Front and rear fibre glass wide guards - standard rear pods and side skirts - R32 headlights (Blacked out housing) Interior: - Bride upholstered door cards, glove box, centre console. - R32 GTR driver, passenger and rear seats. - R32 GTR carpet - Perfect condition genuine Nardi Gara Steering wheel - Din 3 gauge pocket with oil pressure, oil temp and volts - Autometer air fuel gauge, autometer boost gauge. - JVC MP3/CD player with speakers Other things: - The car needs to be retuned since the rebuild - side mirrors are spray painted black - hand break used to be drift button but have since replaced with standard but spring does not work. - The car used to be black but has been resprayed white (paint is not perfect) - Car has never been in an accident with me or last 2 owners - Engine is on 3000kms but chassis has 179XXXkm on the clock - A/C system has been taken out for better performance and cooling (i do not have the A/C setup) - Registration just paid until the 4th of may 2013. So that is the car and i am being as honest as possible. Throw me an offer but please do not waste my time and do not low ball me. A lot of time and effort has been put into this car (credit to past owner). I DO NOT WANT ANY SWAPS so please do not waste yours and my time. No test drives will be permitted unless discussed otherwise when already seen the car. No RWC will be provided. Please call me on 0432454387 or msg me on here for more details Asking price is $9500ono.
  24. Hey all, Wrecking an r33 series 2, 2 door, turbo, manual. It has had a major collision in the rear end, so most of the rear is completely screwed. i have made a rough list of the parts and prices i want, if there is something you want and its not on the list just ask. The motor, gearbox, tailshaft, loom, ecu, steering rack and front control arms are all mine. Everything else is for sale pretty much. The fmic is sold already and the lights and front bar are gone too. (Driveline/engine) rb25 turbo (good cond) 250 Rb25 manifold 50 Rear subframe 100 Diff 200 Driveshafts 50 HICAS 50 Power steering bottle 20 Brake master cylinder 50 Sway bars 20 each Front wiper motor 20 Rear Wiper Motor 20 Steering column 20 Manual Conversion parts(pedals, etc) 50 300zx pair of wheels, rims are good, f**ked tires $50 s15 pair of wheels, f**ked tires and many scratches $50 Standard r33 suspension $50 (Body parts) WHITE Drivers door mint 150 Bonnet (1 small ding) 150 Front Guards mint 150 a pair Type m skirts (front piece inside the wheel arch on the pasenger skirt is cracked and missing a piece out of it, still looks good from the side) 100 (DASH PARTS) turbo cluster with 170,xxx 50 Dash good condition 150 Glove box 20 Center console missing manual shifter insert 50 Heater core 20 Aircon core 50 Heater fan 20 (INTERIOR) Front seats (r33 4 door) 50 Rear Seat (r33 4 door) 50 Indicator/wiper switch assembly 50 Handbrake lever 20 Rear trims 50 Seat belts set of 4 50 Carpet fairly good condition 50 Roof lining 40 Skyline Skuff plates, both sides 35 Door seals 25 each Boot seal 25 Rear ¼ trims 25 each Rear1/4 window surrounds 50 each A pillar Trims 20 each B pillar trims 20 each Rear Vision Mirror 20 each (ODDS AND ENDS) Fuel tank 30 Fuel pump 30 Windscreen 50 Rear window 50 wipers 15 Engine Mounts 50 Handbrake assembly & cables 50 Guard liners 75 for all 4 THIS PRICE LIST I GOT OFF SOMEONE ELSE ON HERE AND ADJUSTED THE PRICES HEAVILY BECAUSE I THOUGHT THE PRICES WERE WAY TO MUCH, THAT SAID, SOME PRICES ARE SLIGHTLY NEGOTIABLE, AND IF YOU BUY MORE THAN A FEW PARTS I WILL PROBABLY DISCOUNT IT. PLEASE CONTACT ME ON MY MOBILE LISTED BELOW AS ITS EASIER THAN f**kING AROUND ON HERE, THANKS. Pic: No point putting up pics as we all know what an r33 looks like, can get close ups of certain parts if you want. Location: Laverton North, will ship some parts at buyers expense. Contact: 0407 056 817
  25. FOR SALE My 1998 model R34 GTT skyline. only 85000ks as far as i can tell, the speedo seems to be showing legit klms. great car but i need a bigger one. manual turbo 2 door 19 inch advanti wheels with new GOOD tyres on front 50% tread rear pioneer blutooth head unit with ipod connect NISMO S-TUNE suspension all round with adjustable dampeners diff has been shimmed by pervious owner (not too aggressive) modified standard boost solenoid to run 8PSI all the time has a small rust bubble behind drivers rear wheel arch. been told its and a good spot and should be around $300-400 to fix but i just dont have the time to get it done. never been raced or flogged while ive owned it cant think of much else at the moment. i want $15000ono for it, SMS 0432663963 with any questions or offers.