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Found 14 results

  1. Hiya Guys, I am selling or looking to swap my 1968 Beetle that has been registered with a Mazda 13b turbo motor, comes with microtech, bosch coil packs, still mounted in rear, has a gearbox from states to handle the power. Recently upgraded secondary injectors to 840cc Injectors, brand new clutch, dyno tuned and worked on by Rotomotion 220hp at rear wheels in a 815kg car, extremely fun. Car was Yellow stickered 2 weeks ago and I already have one car to try and get over the pits so im not in the mood to get 2 cars over. Car is immaculate inside. Car only requires very minor things carried out to pass pits as it has been licenced with motor. (Car is still licenced, needs to be taken over pits). Full write up of what was carried out to car in 1996 at (http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=955&title=Flying+Beetle). I am looking at swapping for a licensed R32/R33 Turbo skyline. Car owes me 16k, and just spent $3.5k with Rotomotion. Real head turner and spins guys out when a beetle leaves them standing. Has a lot of history, been in fast fours and rotaries.
  2. Hi Guys, I have for sale a 1991 Mazda 323 Sedan. This is a one family/two owner car from brand new. It is a great little daily drive car, while you keep your toy for the weekends. It started life out in Dubbo, and has been dry, so there is NOT a bit of rust on it, and it has NEVER been in a accident. It has always been garaged and always serviced every 7000kms. I have a extensive file on my servicing that you are welcome to look at. Always used 95 oct, and good quality oils. Welcome to look in the top of the motor - its spotless - no sludge. This is the 1.8 litre 16 valve injected motor, while lower grade models came with a carby 1.6. I obtain an easy 7 litres per 100kms when commuting in this car, so its going to be easy on petrol. Parts are cheap and readily obtainable. It has completed 224k kms and is ready to go much further. These motors are great (ask a mechanic, they all know the motor), and just keep going. Its running smooth, no knocks or rattles. Starts first time every time. I have driven this car to Syd - Bris in a day, taken it touring round tassie, and would do either trip tomorrow in it. Doesn't overheat, fuss or anything. It is registered in NSW until mid May. EVERYTHING works in the car. power mirrors etc, and it has nice cold working AC. It rides on MX5 wheels with Pirelli P6 tyres, but the buyer will in addition get the original steel wheels and hub caps. The only modification to it is a CD stereo player, and some new speakers in the back (the old ones disintegrated.) because the oem one stopped working. I still have it, and buyer gets it, probably just has a dry solder. There are a few little marks on the corners of the bumpers, where careless people (and the previous elderly owners...) have touched it while parking, but no damage to the bars. Don't let the year and kms fool you, this is not a worn out shitbox. It has heaps of life left to give, and will keep serving for years to come. Plus you get to walk into pretty much any parts store and order ANYTHING you need. I'm asking $2950 ono for it, happy to negotiate with reasonable offers for people who have seen and driven the car (and therefore know what condition its in). Contact me on 0431 ZeroNineZero 240, or you can PM me on here. Location is Thornleigh, Northern Sydney. I work shift, so can't always answer the phone, just send me a txt if so, and I'll get back to you. Reason for sale is that we have had an addition to the family, and after something a bit bigger.
  3. I am looking to sell my 1992 Nissan Skyline GTS-T. I bought the car early this year after owning an MX5 and am only selling as I regret getting rid of the MX5. The car is in a very clean state, especially when comparing to other R32’s. I have receipts for it dating all the way back to 2010 and I have kept every receipt for it since I purchased it. 159,000km Manual RB20DET Coupe 2 door Rego runs out next month but I will purchase another 6 months for buyer P-plate friendly (with exemption, and I can show you how to get one) $9,000 The car has the following modifications done to it: - Power FC - RB25 Turbo with 360 degree thrust bearing - Splitfire Coilpacks - 550cc Deatschwerks Injectors - Stainless Braided Oil Water and Break Lines with Speed Flow fittings - Front mount Intercooler - HKS Turbo Timer - Auto Meter Boost Gauge - Cusco Strut Braces front and rear - AVS Model 6 wheels (17x8+35) - HSD Coilovers all round - ARP Headstuds - Cometic Headgasket - Head crack tested, resurfaced and professionally cleaned, - New Nissan genuine parts purchased while putting on the head gasket: Timing belt, all engine gaskets, ALL Heater hoses (Including top and bottom radiator hose), 100,000km Service kit, - HICAS Elimination kit installed by Option1Garage - Front and Rear Camber arms installed by Option1Garage - Castor arms Installed by Option1Garage - Mongoose Alarm/Immobiliser (Insurance friendly) - Pioneer Headunit with AUX - Nismo Thermostat and New housing As you can see quite a lot of money spent on the car. The car is currently my daily and has a very safe tune for waste-gate pressure (8psi) but all the mods are there to easily make more power safely and reliably. The downsides of the car is that the C-pillar linings are missing (were taken out to do work but one was lost and the other broken) and needs new rear window tint (bubbled up due to age), both these issues are roadworthy items and therefore will not come with a roadworthy. Also the gearbox makes a whining noise which I had checked out by a mechanic and he said it is not detrimental to the life of the box, so far it has done this for 10,000km and still works and feels good. I always only put in 98 Octane fuel, the car has dash NO bubbles, Vents aren't broken like in every other R32, Mostly garaged, A/C blows cold air Apart from those issues the car has been absolutely fine and have enjoyed driving it every bit. I am Negotiable on the price but please be sensible. it is truly one of the cleanest R32's I’ve seen and that was the only reason I purchased the vehicle in the first place and I would not even think of selling it if I didn't miss my MX5 so much. I will consider swaps for NB MX5 with cash adjustment either way depending on condition.
  4. I love this! MX5's have always been super cool, the current model looks fantastic, but this is the first 'all new' MX5 in 25 years! And it looks SOO good! Apparently it'll have the option of a 2L 165HP engine which doesn't sound too flash but curb weight is likely to be under 1050kg for the rag top.
  5. I drove a Abarth Fiat 124 Spider So, my colleague at work this week had a demo Abarth Fiat 124 Spider for the week. Number 1 of 100, I took it for a little spin this morning. It's hard to get a proper feel for these cars I get to drive as most of the time I am limited to just driving around Pyrmont and can't give them a proper test. I also wasn't able to get any photos this time. Thanks to NetCarShow.com for the pics. The first thing I can tell you is that it wasn't made for 6'5" 110kg people. I almost had to shoe-horn myself into the driver's seat and then my leg was so significantly wedged in under the dash that I couldn't stop thinking about how much it hurt. It also really hindered my ability to use the clutch. So, it was immediately clear to me that even if I wanted to buy one, I simply couldn't. I did put the roof up to see how much of my head would need removing, but alas, this was fine with a good finger's width between my hair and the roof. The interior was very nice, but I did feel like I was in a new Mazda3. The dials and buttons and materials were all top notch, but not Italian. The indicator was also on the right, not left like a proper European car. But, that's a bit of a nit-pick from a European car lover. Remembering that this is just an MX5 in a new jacket, I tried hard to see it as an Italian roadster. That was hard as the interior didn't have any Italian feel to it, besides the red stitching on the dash and the red 'ABARTH' branded seats (which would be really nice for anybody who could fit in them.) I didn't know what engine was in it before I drove it and assumed it was one of Mazda's 1.5 or 2.0 offerings. I was a little underwhelmed with the performance and found very little down low and it was quickly out of puff up top. Meaning, it had a nice mid range and if you can keep it in that range with the 6 speed it would be awesome. It sounded quite tinny though with the odd bauble here and there. When I gave it back and had a read about it, I found out that it is actually a turbo 1.4. That's very impressive because it definitely behaved like a bigger engine and the lack of torque made more sense to me after that. But, I do not think that the engine fits the car. It needs more, it needs a bigger range, it needs more top end and i also think that 6 cogs for a 1.4 are a little much. Note that mine was obviously a right hand drive. Handling was great. Turn in felt a little like a Honda Integra Type R like it was a capable front-wheel-drive bordering on understeer. As it is a rear wheel drive, I didn't want to push and see what happened so I kept it sane. I was in Pyrmont, remember. I must admit that this little car got as much attention as the Porsche GT4 I drove the other week. All in all, very fun. I can't see how anybody could survive with this as their daily. The complete lack of interior storage, space and back seats would render this car entirely useless to most full-sized people. Would you pick this over an MX5? Some comparison; Mazda MX5 1.5L: From $42k, 96kw / 150nm Mazda MX5 2.0L: From $44k, 118 / 200nm Fiat Spider: From $44k, 125kw / 250nm, 0-100 6.8s. More pics in the Album.
  6. As many of you are aware for a few years now I've been bitten by the rotary bug, they're not for everyone but I love 'em! So quite some time ago I purchased myself a JC Cosmo with a factory 20B in it, I had the motor built by local rotary gurus 'Rotomotion' (GT4202R, dowelled, bridgeported etc.) and it made a bunch of power which was great. 2 years ago at RaceWars 2014 my tailshaft let go and I destoryed the back of my gearbox, since then the Cosmo has not been driven The Cosmo was in pretty poor condition and the dream ever since has been to buy an RX-8, drop the 20B in and go racing, good chassis + good engine should mean a fast car! So last Saturday I finally got my hands on a car I wanted in my budget, picked up an un-registered RX-8 roller and thus my first proper motorsport build has begun! As you can see I purchased the car with no engine or box so that is alread taken care of for me, I now have the car in the corner of the workshop and I'll probably start stripping it down soon.
  7. Hey All, Hope everyone is well. Long story short, Bought a 2001 Mazda 121 Metro (Small Size Little Japanese Demon) with the most underpowered motor and feel, but still at a minimum a fun car, which makes a 60 zone feel like a space shuttle launch. The few questions I have are, one, got two oil leaks. One is coming from the sump plug (probably incorrect terminology), and another further behind. I was wondering since it is FWD if this could be trans or something else but got no clue, been underneath but a new oil leak started today but could be aircon or something i don't understand. I know one is defo engine oil, but the other, i didn't have time to check. If anyone is from Perth and has some time or interested (which i doubt anyone is) I'd owe them a life debt to look at the nugget. Two, I am deciding if I am going to be a dickhead as per usual and cut the exhaust just before the muffler on the final 90 degree bend and stick it under the car and point it towards the underside of the side-skirt. The internal questions inside this are, one, if the pipe doesn't stick down or though the side skirt will it cause exhaust gases to pool underneath the car (close to fuel tank) and do i keep the muffler to f**k the cops off or do i just send it? Three, my final stupid question. Now i know all of you hate pod filters and they are useless, but the pod filter i've added is definitely better than the stock 30mm pipe of airflow that the air-box was connected to. I have absolutely sketched the daylights out of this by finding out that adding a pod involves attaching pod to maf, and then i discovered an air temp sensor which i may or may not have drilled into my stock intake pipe and just plugged and walked away (yes i know it is bad and it is my first car sooo, sketchy is all i've got). To resolve this, I have got 3 inch tubing which will connect all fine (i've tested it) and made sure it plugs all together with the OEM parts, instead of the 2 inch tube. This new tubing is mainly stainless steel with silicon joining pieces and a somehow very well non-sketchy hole with a rubber seal for the air temp sensor ( i know, how advanced!). Anyway, back to the problem, the connection pipe i have made doesn't fit in the car.. , so does anyone have any ideas about how to go about keeping the pod, with new piping? Anyway sorry for the headache that is this nugget, but, have to learn on a trash car to do something bigger... Thanks all Billy
  8. Hey All, Just a few questions about painting the engine bay of my 2001 Mazda Metro 121. Basically I have chosen to paint it candy gold and am going to just cover the engine and take everything except the block, exhaust manifold and difficult stuff to move out of the engine bay while i spray and pray. Just wondering if anyone would be able to help me on the things I can take out of the engine bay that are non-essential that don't need to go back in to remove the clutter of cables and tubing running everywhere. I notice aircon seems to take a hell of a lot of room up and, to be fair, it hardly works anyway so thats a go off, but would anyone give me any ideas of what else I can remove before painting thats non-essential to the car. I will also say, the car is a piece of utter garbage, so I'm not too worried about removing stuff that won't ever go back in for resale, since I don't think it will ever resell. Thanks Legends.
  9. Hey all, so i own a absolute shitbox Mazda 121 Metro 01' Model, and unfortunately when put the new air intake in, as the MAF cable needed to be extended, I hand wired the cable and worked just fine. Somehow when the car had its Clutch replaced, the maf connector disconnected its wires from the plug and so I just believed i could re-wire it and it would be fine and go on its way. I am now at the stage where the motor is backfiring, stalling mostly on start and i imagine, is running at full rich, which is probably flooding the engine. I am also in Uni and have absolutely no money but need the car asap. So basically does anyone have any ideas of what to do since i have re-wired it several times now, and no such success has come. i first rewired the connector and plug, but the plug slowly has been deteriorating so i took the pins out and just for a test wired them to the maf (just by holding them in) to see if that would work but nothing has worked. I also was told that if i do not disconnect the battery, that the MAF sensor and connector could have some sort excess electrical energy inside the cables but i am not sure of how viable and answer that is Cheers all
  10. From the album: Abarth Fiat 124 Spider

    Thanks to NetCarShow.com for the pics.
  11. From the album: Abarth Fiat 124 Spider

    Thanks to NetCarShow.com for the pics.
  12. From the album: Abarth Fiat 124 Spider

    Thanks to NetCarShow.com for the pics.
  13. From the album: Abarth Fiat 124 Spider

    Thanks to NetCarShow.com for the pics.
  14. From the album: Abarth Fiat 124 Spider

    Thanks to NetCarShow.com for the pics.
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