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Had a misfiring problem - took it to local mechanic who replaced one coil pack and the car was running well for 1 day then misfire returned. I used one of the diy tutorials to replace all coil packs. car ran fine for approx 40kms then started misfiring again - nowhere near as bad as they were misfiring before I changed all the coil packs but misfiring nonetheless.What could be causing this?? Anybody?

Hey everyone, I recently started having a problem with my Laurel where after a random amount of time driving, the car will start bucking and hesistating badly at all RPMs. If I put the clutch in or go into neutral while this is happening the idle hunts up and down between 1-2k and then stalls. When it stalls the car will not crank at all, but will start back up if I bump start it. By the time I got it home it fired right up with the key again until it eventually stalled. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm currently stumped.

Hi guys. This is probably a very commonly covered topic, but today, i wanted to make a video to document the matter, and help those who may not know how to do this. This tutorial will show you how to swap your Coil Packs in your s15 if you find that they are failing, or causing misfire. *Background story - My car was idling fine and such, accel was fine in first 2 gears, but when in 3rd gear upwards, it would stutter and splutter, causing issues with acceleration under boost. I had a tip from some guys on the facebook group, and was told to check my ignition system. I had plans to change coils and plugs, but as i had a spare set of coils, though i would do them first. Changed coils, and did not have to touch my plugs, the issue is now gone. Please follow below for any assistance or instructions. Please see my video for full instructional and visual. For those who might not like watching videos, or tight on data, i will write the instructions below. Please follow closely. If you have a similar issue or need to change your packs, you will need to make sure you have your car turned off. Pop the bonnet, and you may see a silver plate, or a plate of sorts on top of your engine. If you don't have this, you can skip to the next step, if you have one, you will need to remove it with an alan key. Once the silver plate is removed, you will need a 10ml socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the packs in. When unplugging, please be extremely careful, as you can break the clips quite easily if you are too rough, as they are now very brittle after about 20 years of heat cycles. When the plugs are removed from the packs, you can gently pull them up, you may need some force as they have grommets holding them in. When the coils out, at this point, you can just replace it, or you can take it a step further, and change your spark plugs too. I recommend the ngk iridium plugs, they are supposed to last a long time, and are gapped perfectly if you are running a similar setup to me at 15 PSI. If you decided to swap your plugs, make sure not to over tighten them when screwing them in. Once they are in, you can follow the process to swap the coils, but backwards, when installing the new coils. After you have done all this, turn on the car and see if the issue persists, take it for a cruise, and if all is well, congratulations, you have saved a trip to the mechanic! Please feel free to leave me any feedback as it helps me make future content or tutorials! All the best, see you next time!

Bit of background. So, car had been running rough for the past month or so where I’d get no power on boost at all basically almost felt like it was na. Checked for boost leaks, replaced plugs and coil packs compression test all fine still no progress. After about a month of scratching my head thought I’d check the ignition timing to see if that’s the issue. Got the coil cover off and CAS lose ready to adjust everything but as I went to check it all turns out my shit supercheap timing light decided to stop working. So, I put it all back together making sure to put the CAS back in its original spot so not to stuff everything up. Went for a driver and after about 20 mins car hesitated pretty violently jerking the car a bit. Kind of like fuel cut would feel like. And then 10 seconds later it all goes to shit and starts misfiring like crazy. Its struggling to stay at idle without me giving it some throttle. Then bam like the flick of a switch completely back to normal. and then a minute later it happened again misfiring like crazy. It stalls like twice as I’m trying to get it off the road to a side street its parked now and not starting at all, let her sit for about 5 minutes and tried to start it again. fired up perfectly normally and idled for a few mins completely fine and then again lots of misfiring and it died and wouldn’t start. I came back the next day to see if I could get it home because I only lived 2 mins down the road and f**k getting a tow truck for that. But same thing again stated fine got halfway there and it started to shit itself again, lucky I was on a hill so I could just roll her home. So in a nutshell Car has a intermittent misfire with no specific trigger. comes and goes every few mins. So, since its intermittent like that it’s pretty obvious its not mechanical issue. That seems like a pretty fair statement to make right? Therefore, its most likely a electrical issue. Something to do with a sensor or ecu. My best guess from my research is that its Either the AFM or CAS sensor that’s causing the issues. especially since i was fiddling arounds with the CAS sensor earlier. Does this sound about right to anyone? Thanks

Had a misfiring problem - took it to local mechanic who replaced one coil pack and the car was running well for 1 day then misfire returned. I used one of the diy tutorials to replace all coil packs. car ran fine for approx 40kms then started misfiring again - nowhere near as bad as they were misfiring before I changed all the coil packs but misfiring nonetheless.What could be causing this? Spark plugs had been changed 7 months ago. also noticed that the two coil packs had different numbers on - 4 of them are numbered 543, 1 is 791 and another 8X5. they all have HANSHIN MCP1440 on the back of em except the one numbered 791 has MCP1340. Does this mean anything? All coil packs in there now are brand new ones FUJI ULTRA SPARK - sold by www.OSAKA.co.nz. As you've probably gathered, I am a newbie. Help please! Quote MultiQuote

Hey fellas, hope you're all well so here we go I need help I rebuilt my R33 series 2 GTS-T from the ground up. The rebuilt motor is having trouble starting and idling. Rebuilt RB25DET series 2 Car kicks over then cuts out straight away, like its starved of fuel. Then when you try start it again it gets really compressiony doesn't want to start. Leave it for a min and it will, but with horrible misfire, eventually sorts itself out but not fully, hunts for a bit. Doesn't sound like it's running on 6 cylinders. Head got rebuilt, had no issues with old one, piston rings were finished so I had to rebuild it Compression ratings at 140 across all 6 Seems to be over-fueling but it's always run rich. I've checked the: Coil pack loom, tested fine Fuel pressure fine Oil pressures good Spark is fine Timing is spot on New - Walbro fuel pump - Saads fuel reg - Iridium spark plugs - AFM - K&N Oil Filter - Gates timing belt - Nissan water pump - Nissan thermostat Old (off the motor before rebuild, but were working when dismantled) - GCG high flowed turbo - GCG FMIC - Injectors and rail (standard series 2) - ECU (standard series 2) - Intake manifold (inc AAC) - Exhaust manifold - Exhaust - BOV - Alloy Radiator - Cam shafts - After market boost controller - CAS - Pod filter - Splitfire coilpacks (haven't travelled more than 3000km) Any suggestions for me to test? I'm trying to organise a new CAS to test. We were test driving the car all week in our workshop carpark after we installed the new reg and it was running really well, but was doing this same thing over a week ago. Kinda reverted to doing the same thing again unfortunately. Id appreciate any help with it, it's so close but so far omg Thanks for reading Marni

Soooo, I have a s2 rb25 in a stagea. Power FC, splitfires, z32 afm, td06, nismo 550cc injectors, gtr fuel, tuned at 18psi. Has been running fine for 6 months until yesterday it has developed a misfire under load and full boost. Seems ok at very light load and cruising. Has constant miss when you stand on it and try and rev it out, also get a lot of black smoke out back. Knock doesn't go above 18 with this happening. I checked injector value in pfc and it got up to 90% just once, normally around 68-70% WOT. AFM voltage with car off is 0.42v according to the power fc and 1.72v at cruise approx. I took plugs out (bpr7es gapped at 0.7), and swapped with some other spares I had laying around (not new but known working) and made very little difference. I sprayed all the vac lines and hose clamps with brake cleaner but no change in idle speed. I did find 1 loose hose clamp after the turbo outlet under the air filter, but after tightening that, no change has been observed. It was dark when I got into changing the plugs so I couldn't inspect the coil packs thoroughly. Might get around to it on the weekend. Any suggestions.

R34 GTR - Misfire/Stuttering Hey guys, Over the past couple of months I have noticed an increase in misfires while coming on boost/just before boost. Initially it was mild yet when it happened the 4WD and A-LSD error lights would toggle on in most cases. Now every time the car is driven I experience the misfire. The coil packs and spark plugs were swapped out for new ones just under a year ago so my initial thought was that it could not be them. Boost is also very inconsistent in when and what boost it hits. I also noticed that in 2nd gear for example, there is barely any boost (0.4-0.5 bar) before 4.5k rpm and then at around 5k it hits really hard (1 bar) and causes the car to jolt suddenly. I do know that the stock turbos currently installed are in poor shape having a whining noise so I wasn't sure if that had anything to do with the problem but I am planning to swap the turbos out next week hopefully. Has anyone had something similiar or know of a fix? Thanks, Nick.

Hey guys first time posting here, I've been having this problem for a couple months now, just want some advice or someone may have had the same trouble. Also been to a few mechanics and shops but still unsure on what the problem is. Basically the engine randomly misfires while I'm driving at pretty much any rev and any gear, the engine light will come on, and basically keeps stuttering for as long as I stay around the same revs, unless I take the foot off the accelerator then it'll come good again. This can happen as soon as i take it out of the garage or after coming home from a long drive. The codes were telling me MAF and airflow originally so i replaced that, the other possibility was the coil packs might be on their way out so i tested them with a multi-meter and nothing seemed too out of the ordinary. Also changed the spark plugs just to rule out that problem but its still happening. Any thoughts or leads? Cheers.

Hey Gents As the car is warmed up not only coolant temp but also oil temp, say around 80-90 degrees the car starts to have a misfire. At first its just a hiccup at idle but then progressively gets worst as I keep driving and the engine warms up more. From idle to 1500 rpm the response is terribly. It's extremely hard to take off from a light, and the whole drive line shudders as I attempt to get the car moving but as soon as 1600 rpm rolls around it goes back to absolute normal with no problems all the way WOT and mind you this only happens when the oil temps are at operating temps avg 85 degrees. Does this seem like an igniter issue? or coil pack issue. Whilst this happened, I had the car on the driveway with the engine running and I sprayed freeze spray directly onto the igniter with no change. From 1600rpm and up theres no issue, regardless of coolant and oil temp. My intent is to go r34 gtr smart coils and get the wiring specialites adapter harness and be done with it, just hope this helps. Thanks guys

Hi guys, I have a series 1 r33 running spitfire coils, 1250cc injectors, walbro 460 fuel pump, gtx3076r and an Apexi fc. The car DOESNT struggle on start up/Idle, but splutters and struggles to accelerate. After 15mins or so of driving, the car suddenly runs as normal and runs like a champ. The problem all started within one day- I drove the car in the morning and it ran fine and then came back to it 2 hours after of parking and the problem started. Hasn't gotten worse or any better. I have checked the spark plugs, they all look fine. Is it a coilpack problem? Ecu problem? Sensor problem? As it runs like shit until normal engine temp. Thanks a a million guys, Any help is much appreciated.

Love hate relationship, help needed 89 R32 GTR 35k miles, has a misfire at idle that gradually gets worse as i drive the car for a long distance. Doesn't break up under load & seems to run well. I have been ripping my hair out trying to figure it out. I have given up & decided to reach out to the SAU community for any help. Below is what i have done to try and subside the infamous misfire. Thanks in advance for anyone thats willing to help me diagnose this turd. Heres a list of everything i have done. Motor is stock other than exhaust, filter pods & ls2 GM coils. New oem nissan 02's New oem TPS Used but cleaned & tested oem Injectors Battery Fuel pumps Fuel filter Re-sauder mafs, borrowed known working mafs GM coil conversion. Reinstalled original coils, no change. Borrowed ECU checked all sensors on scanner, ecu talk & snap-on modis. Checked cylinder balance & hooked up oscilloscope. Also ran an injector balance test. Replaced chassis/motor/battery ground cables. Spark plugs @ 0.8 gap & 0.7 gap. Tried bcpr7eix & copper core ngk. New temp sensor. Sprayed non chlorinated brake cleaner everywhere looking for vac leaks. Compression test was 150 psi across the board.

I have a 92/93 R32 gts-t manual. The throttle isn't 100% smooth or consent. When I am cruising the engine seems to drop or hesitate as if a coil failing. When I slightly press the accelerator, it will pick up faster then it should. These issues seem to be only when I am at the first 5% of the throttle, when I am cruising and it does not seem to be temp orientated; however, it is slightly worse when the car is cold. Along with these issues the car starts like a pig first thing in the morning or after an extended period. It requires turning over several times before idling up other wise it idles out as if its not getting fuel. Prior to a year ago the car was very easy to start. I have already purchased with in the past 6 months several parts, these include: New Splitfire Coils New ignition harness Platinum plugs An ignition module Several second hand IAC valves A temp sensor MAF New fuel regulator I have checked all the vacuum hoses and replaced one. The car is for the most part stock. It does have a 6in HKS pod and a custom turbo back stainless steel exhaust. I am some what at an end to what I can check without out-laying lots of money for new and expensive parts. Other then the said issues the car runs great, there are no misfires, it idles perfectly and accelerates hard to the red line. It may seem like a small issue/s but driving it as an every day car, this gets very frustrating!

Hey all, So I've been experiencing an intermittent misfire with my gtr r32, at Idle its not running on all cylinders. At some times it runs flawlessly. So my first thought was to check ignition, and to change out the plugs, as they haven't been done in a while. As I took out all the plugs, each of them was covered in oil, on the threaded bit only. The porcelain, and the electrode were clean and dry. So, my question is: what could be causing a leak down in the plug wells? Normally, I'd think of valve cover gasket, but it seemed dry and sits higher than the plug wells down in the valley. I checked everywhere on the net for some kind of replacement part seal or gasket, or tube that would fit in or around the spark plug well, but it seems its non existent? Also, I performed a resistance test on the coils which all read about 1.2 ohms, this is outside of nissans required spec (0.6-0.9ohms), does this mean they're on their way out? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Hello Family, Ive put in my new Apexi FC and have done the timing on the engine via the commander until I order an FC Hako or Datalogit. The issue is at high revs around the 15x15 mark on the map trace i get misfire and I cant work out how to resolve this issue. Its always on the same spot so I started messing with the fuel map on the commander. I dont understand what the numbers are a reference to on the inj map. What does 1.00 reference too? I guess it means 1.00 = 0.00; above 1.00 = more fuel but how much is too much how little is too little? Why do the numbers stop at ~1.4 - they must be referenced to something and I cant find anything on the net. So basically its misfiring and i want to decrease the fuel because i think its too high ~1.30 which i did but it made little to no difference same as increasing the fuel.. anyone got any ideas? Thanks

R32 barely runs under load Sooo... My friend/customer has a really neat 89 m spec 20DET manual and I've offered to fix it up on the cheap because he's been f**ked around for a while and it's about time the car seen some road time. The car will rev on the spot clean and sharp without the slightest miss to 5.5-6k before it drops Spark (can hear the unburnt fuel popping in the exhaust) and when test driving it is barely driveable (as in 20kmh a struggle) with any throttle basically resulting in misfire and breaking down. Much to my dismay I'm now at the the swap parts and see stage of mechanics, after diagnosing the car has not given any obvious stuff. I have changed the plugs to BPR6ES-085 (.85gap) the coil packs have been changed by the owner less than 12months ago to OE style aftermarket coils. I have also had parts from a perfect running r32 gts-t swapped one at a time these include AFM, ECU, Igniter and Cam Sensor. I have checked the white wire supplying the the igniter for voltage at idle (14v) and under load (13.9v) and also checked the timing belt which is certainly old but all timing marks line up at 0 TDC. Our Autel Maxisys diagnostic tool has Nissan consult also which the ecu has no stored fault codes using the tool and putting the ecu in factory diagnostic mode it displays 55 currently although the consult port does continue to disconnect form the unit due to "improper connection". During live data the TPS reads .4V at idle and 4.2V wide open the ecu coolant sensor reads around 70ish degrees the rpm count matches the tacho and afm and I used the tool and a timing light to set the timing to 20 BTDC and the idle is at 800RPM. I believe the issue is related the connection problem at the consult port is going to lead to the actual problem (happy to be proven wrong though) and I'm leaning toward a earth or wiring issue with the car, also there has been moisture coming in through a slight leak in the front window if that helps. Hoping someone with some skyline experience can throw some good suggestions out there please ?

Here's the story. So I had this really weird problem happen yesterday. Driving to work in the afternoon and just cruising along and suddenly the car starts to have a really odd cruising note. Sounds almost wrx like, but really faint. Car is fairly temperamental so don't think much of it, vary the throttle a bit and it goes away but then comes back a few seconds later. Get closer to work and now it really sounds like a boxer. Not only that, now I can see white smoke in the rear vision mirror and car is popping a fair bit. Almost at work and it bangs a couple times out the exhaust . I'm talking proper Bee-R loud here (tune is a bit rich I think as it pop and flames from time to time in usual driving). Park up and leave the car idling. I can see a little white smoke from the exhaust and it sounds rexy like, but I can't see anything wrong in the engine bay. Ok so start the car to leave work this very early morning and car is fine. Nothing wrong at all. No smoke, No being a fake impreza. Back to normal. Drive for around 30 mins with a couple full boost pulls to make sure everything is fine, nothing seems wrong. Right after this I am about 10 mins from home and the wrx noise comes back really bad... Leaving a set of lights like a granny, hit 4th gear and loudest bang I've ever heard from the exhaust and see the brightest flame I've ever seen the car do out the corner of my eye reflecting off the night bushes. I can see more white smoke coming out the back than earlier. Stop at the last set of lights before my house to turn onto the highway and there is white smoke billowing out the exhaust, I turn the car off while I wait at the lights as it is way too much. I'm thinking oil smoke, but I can smell fuel really bad while I sit and wait for the lights. The light changes, I start the car and take off quickly. I can see a solid cloud of smoke where my car was as I leave the lights. It only smokes a little as I drive off though. Getting onto the highway I hit a bit of boost and the misfiring goes away? What?! I change gear and boost higher and, sure enough, the misfiring is gone while in high revs and boost. I get home, park up really quick and it's smoking like at the lights so I turn it off quickly. I get out to look at the muffler and there is smoke still wafting out, but it looks really weird and I can smell fuel. I let the car cool down to see if the problem goes away again, but no go this time. I took some vid: Idling Video1 Reving. I felt and smelt the stuff on the ground and it is definitely fuel, not coolant or oil and it's clear. Video2 Engine off. Video3 This is the closest thread I can find to the same issue after searching for a while http://www.skylinesa...-of-this-before I think maybe an injector is stuck open, which is maybe why it stops misfiring while on high revs and boost? That one is really confusing. AFM voltage is in spec on the Power FC controller. I've never seen an issue like this before. I don't get why it smokes white? A little bit unusual as over fueling is usually black smoke? I guess there is that much fuel it's more like vapourising than burning. Car is an R32 RB25DET stock internals, HKS GT-RS kit, FMIC, Nismo 700cc injectors, Z32 AFM, Brand new Nissan coil packs about 6 months ago, Power FC (possibly a pro version as when I hit limiter it's like a Bee-R) Hopefully someone has some insight on this.

Hey there need some urgent help with my 25/30. I have just installed some tomei 264 poncams and now my car idles like crap. The whole car shakes and vibrates and just doesn't feel right. I have new lifters, upgraded valve springs and retainers, new valve stem seals and the tomei 264 poncams. I have a tomei exhaust cam gear installed with no advance or retard.Controlling everything is a pfc l jetro and I have 700cc injectors. The car revs and drives ok but idle is horrible. Timing is spot on and no matter how far advance or retard ignition timing or add and take away fuel the idle does not get any better. Now don't get me wrong it changes the idle and ratios but the best idle I can get is still crappy. Every video i see or person i ask that has installed these cams say they are straight drop in and do not affect idle like what I am describing, but my idle woes only happened after the cam install. I thought bent valves but got a reading of 150 psi on all cylinders doing a dry compression test. Can anyone give any advice? I am totally stumped and bout ready to go back to the original cams cause this idle just is not right. Anyone with any experience please give some advice.

Misfire on RB20 after painting rocker covers After painting my rocker covers, and reinstalling. I've started my car to end up with a misfire. Misfire happens immediately when I start the car, and is consistent throughout the whole revrange. Although I haven't taken it past 3k rpm yet so I don't know what happens past there. any known or common reasons why this might happen after basically replacing rocker cover? coils are right in between the 2 covers so wouldn't be surprised if I've messed something up there somehow. Thanks

So i just changed my sparkplugs on my r34 everything was fine I drove it for like 10 minutes and then the engine light came on and then it started misfiring really bad, now on idle, it sounds like its running on fewer cylinders. I got engine fault code 21

Hey what's up y'all, I'm new to the fourms but came on here due to frustration and a misfiring RB26. My 1992 Skyline GTR has a misfire that seems to be random. It does not happen upon could start from what I can tell. Checked the computer codes and they flashed all clear. I pulled the plugs and saw they were covered in black soot, some worse than others but all generally dirty. Replaced them with some iridium plugs from NGK gapped at .8, and that didn't fix it, then put some used but nice Splitfire coils on it, which seemed to maybe help a little but it could be placebo, also seemed to not wanna start with those coils in and low idle. The car is drivable but feels down on power and the misfire is pretty constant throughout the rev range. Only other thing I notice is she spits black smoke and it leaves these carbon specs all over the rear end. Maybe she's running too rich? I'm stumped and don't wanna put any money into it until I know what's wrong. Anyone have an idea? Thanks alot!

Hi there I've currently have Error 21 (ignition signal circuit). I've also have a misfire happening only at low RPM. It will stall out if you accelerate approx 50%, if you go 75% it will drop the revs and almost stall then shoot up, but accelerate slowly it will go just as normal (these are all from stand still and rolling slowly) Firstly the car is R34 GT-T manual running stock ecu Injectors Turbo Throttle body with TCS still Aftermarket Greddy intake Front Mount intercooler Splitfire Coilpacks I've installed the splitfire coilpacks last week (brand new) along with spark plugs gapped at 0.8. I checked the coilpack loom for constant ground + 12v with the ign on and tested trigger signal for continuity from the ecu to the coilpack loom (so those have all passed) I've heard people say replace the loom but idk if thats going to resolve it for me Injectors were cleaned and flow tested about a month ago I've heard CAS could be a problem, I assumed mine was fine and wasn't going to be and issue. But I bought another one and it was still the same issue. Then borrowed someone's with a working one and still same issue Hope someone has some knowledge

I was having trouble with my R33 breaking down but only when I tried to run high boost (24 psi) Running at 12 psi it was smooth and faultless so I changed plugs, fuel filter and a few other things but nothing worked so I took it to Gavin wood and he said the coil packs were more than likely at fault. Rather then shelling out and purchasing another set of coils OR gaping my plugs down from 1.1mm to .6mm I did some more research and found some people in the UK were making up Acetal plates for mounting their coils too and this was solving a range of problems for people. The theory is that when your coils fail they are finding the easiest path to earth for the spark to travel OR when you are running boost over 1 bar the spark can be "blown out" basically so the simple fix is to get more powerful coils BUT If you think harder about the problem and rather than resorting to fixing a short with "more power" to make up for it, actually remove the path the short is going to take and you will find all your power will now go straight into your plug!! From the minute I started the car even driving round on 12 psi it felt so much crisper and more responsive, but the proof was being able to run 24 psi again revving clean and clear right to limiter. Acetal or Polyoxymethylene, is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction and excellent dimensional stability. All you have to do is trace your alloy ones onto the Acetal plate and you can then cut them out with a jigsaw and tap the holes. I made mine in house and would consider making up a run of these should people not wish to stuff around making their own and would rather to just purchase them. Hope this gives you guys another option to try at home when trying to sort out your misfires.

So I have a s1 r33 . I have only spark and pulse on cylinders1 and 3 while the car is running I pull the plug on each cylinder and injector while running only 1 and 3 do anything.. tho I have pulled the coils out tested it seams to have spark on all coils also pulled the rail off an all six pulse fuel out. bench tested the injectors for pulse an resistance all seem fine the numbers were all the same 11 or 12 ohms i believe.. what could this be ecu?

Hi, I started a thread not long ago about misfiring under medium to heavy acceleration. Poking around I had really odd results testing the resistance on the coil pack ignitor. It lead me to believe the ignitor was faulty; replaced this and the problem didn't go away. I'm still curious what the resistance of other ignitors are... when I get a multimeter I'll test the re-furb unit too. In short, here is what i did: Replaced the ignitor - same. Dropped in a set of BCPR6ES-11 - same Dropped in a set of BCPR6ES - better but still same same Checked for un-metered air. Found K&N oil from the panel in the air box. Replaced with paper filter, cleaned AFMs with CRC AFM cleaner - marginally better with the BCPR6ES in there. Inspected the coil packs. No cracking. Did some reading about coil packs and had a penny drop moment. Basically, two things: The coils packs, as in the induction coils in the unit itself generally work, or don't. Rule of thumb, there are examples of them failing but not for this post. So, in my case the coil pack fires, and it works. It's the plastics around the pack that break down. Sometimes visibly, other times not. Stumbled onto a YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qirx_G4x5i0 Guy with an Aussie accent. I'd be shocked if he isn't on SAU. If you are out there and read this, chime in and take credit. Bought a second hand set of coil packs, some contact cleaner and 2x 7g tubes of dielectric grease. Pulled the coil packs out and apart, sprayed everything with contact cleaner. Then a generous ring of dielectric grease around where the pack flanges out and also underneath the flange. Put the clean springs back in, slid the plastic part nozzle on with another run of dielectric grease around the base. To be sure. Could have been done easily with one tube but being super generous and ended up using a tiny part of the second tube. On the first drive, oh my! How different the car feels. Smoother acceleration, less backfiring from the exhaust, better (smoother?) engine sound and no misfiring. Looking at the old coil packs. See the below pictures. The rim has oxidized, the springs are dirty (pics don't show it) and inside the coil are black marks... If the OEM coils are as good as anything aftermarket, I'd spend the $30 on parts and in an hour it'll be like new. A run of dielectric grease is on my maintenance list whenever I do plugs. HTH someone else.