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  1. Hello, names Kyle long time reader of these forums as ive been looking for a r32 for a while now and I am finally a happy owner so thought id make an account haha ! Here is my 89” R32 gts-t (RB25det NEO) Few basic modifications/upgrades coil over suspension, exhaust, fmic, injectors, coils, TD06-20G Kinugawa turbo w/ external gate, powerFC having car tuned in the next week as it is running slightly rich and will have some numbers to share?
  2. Greetings from Canuckland, I am new to SAU and I have an R34 Sedan - RB25DE NEO (tiptronic/auto). It has about 144K+ kms and has a rebuild auto tranny with new solenoid a/b parts, new timing belt, tensioner, water pump, and cam seals. I miss the car meets and cruises due to covid19 and health restrictions for large groups. stay safe! stay home! wash your hands.
  3. Selling Greddy cam sprocket for rb25det neo/R34 GTT. Allows intake cam adjustment without losing VCT. Item is BRAND NEW. Chasing $450 Located WA, happy to post at buyers expense.
  4. This is a story of how I became broke It all started with a text. " is this this what you've been looking for? One just got dropped of here at the scrap yard!" Meet "Pidge" my 92 240sx coupe junk yard save. The backstory on the car is apparently it was some kids project back in the early 2000 that they had lost interest in after blowing the stock ka24de (you'll see the window in the side of block later on ) and had just left it in their mothers backyard when they left and moved off to college. Well I guess the mother was cleaning her property to get it ready to sell and had dropped it off at the scrap yard a few towns over where I have a friend that works. So instead of letting the scrap yard buy and crush it, he paid her cash for the car so it wouldn't be scrapped and texted me knowing damn good and well he'd be able to make a buck or two off of me. The car its self wasnt in the worst condition it sat as high as most trucks out here in east texas and aside from the silvia front end conversion, and backyard straight pipe exhaust job the car was stock. Which for me was the perfect starting platform. That gave me the a fresh start. Minus the headlights no wiring was hacked up everything was there I could of very easily just pulled the blown ka put a fresh motor in and it would have been back on the road.well that and had a key made. The car had some minor body damage that was apparent upon inspection. The sun roof leaked and the trunks spoiler was almost broken off so the interior was going to need replacing and with the amount of humidity we get out here the under carriage was going to need inspection. Then it was on I towed the car back home and parked her out in my front yard for about 6 months while I tried to find the between two jobs and a family to get all of my parents belongings out of my garage and my garage clean enough to get the car up in the garage Then on December 23rd 2018 it got real the car was finally pushed up into the garage and tare down and a thorough Inspection began.
  5. Hey all I can't take it anymore with the issue and its time for DIY and learn and save $$$. I drive a r34 4door rb25de neo manual Firstly i would like to say last year before the end of November i bought new spark plugs and had them replaced because the rocket cover gasket needed to be replace so might as well change of the spark plugs as well. With this change the car has been running perfectly without a beat until last week. I have been noticing the car was causing some issues after roughly 10-15minutes of driving from cold start, it was coughing and losing power, it took a bit to notice but then become a lot more noticeable during cold starts and honestly felt like it was misfiring. After some time driving and the tempt reaches normal the engine runs smoothly and no misfire at all. So here it is, I would like to know how can i go on and diagnose the problem and try and fix it, without having the diagnostic tools and electronics. From reading through different posts, the most common places to check are the spark plugs and the coil packs, that is all i know. I do not own a lot of tools as well if it comes down to having something really specific to fix it. (I do have a torque wrench lol)
  6. so..... this is my first rb25det neo (RWD) engine and i will fix it in a peugeot 504 - 76 but i have some questions to the rb specialist i know there is a lot of info. on the internet for this engines but i'm totally lost and i want some one to simply answer this questions : 1- what is difference (mechanically and electrically ) between the neo and non neo engines? 2- did the neo engines came in R33 or it only came in R34 and starting from what models??? 3- how can i make sure that my engine is originally a DET engine ??? 4- what is the difference between s1 and s2 engines? 5- what is the ECU serial number which matches my Rb25 det neo (because i got the engine with a harness only )? 6- i bought an rb20 gear box with this engine because of the lake of resources (money) is this will be a problem in the future ? 7- what is the difference between an automatic and a manual transmission engine harness and how can i know which harness i have? 8- i need a full wiring diagram for this engine as the wiring is the most challenging thing for me (fixing the motor into the car is the easy part). this acutely summon my doubts for now any help from you guys will be very appreciated if any one have any info for me for fixing an rb engine into my car please let me know __________________________ proud to be a RB owner ____________________________
  7. Good day buddies.... So i have recently installed some Tomei Poncams(Intake 260 9.15 and Exhaust 262 9.15 lift) for my engine (RB25DET NEO).... After they were installed i never checked the shim clearance(p.s shims are above bucket type), due to it being drop in cams and my buddy who installed them never had to re-shim. Unfortunately after i started the car i heard a ticking noise from the back of the head and then investigated the reason of the noise. For a second i taught it was the body oil used(20w50) and i live in the caribbean. So i change the oil to 10w50 and the noise reduce a bit but was still there... When i pop the cam cover and check the clearances this was the results. *Exhaust * Numbers are in "thou" reading 1.0.019 2.0.019 3.0.019 4.0.019 5.0.020 6.0.020 7.0.020 8.0.020 9.0.020 10.0.20 11.0.20 + 0.011 12.0.018 tight or 0.017 AS Tomei recommend there clearances to be .018 thou mine reads close to Nissan specs and never did any head work.... but for when i checked the clearance on valve #11 and #12 i notice that was the problem.... What can cause that such big clearance #11 and tight clearance on #12 ....Btw this is a stock head and never done any head work as my goal was to just see how long the engine can last....
  8. Hi guys I've been lead to believe by my tuner that my VVT cam gear is making some noise. Around 5000rpm every single pull a noise is picked up by the knock sensor, which keeps going until about 5500rpm at which point it stops, and the ECU sometimes thinks it's knock and pulls timing to compensate. Tuner seems to think it is my intake cam gear, and believes it may be getting a bit noisy for some strange reason. Noise has been described to me almost as a "ddddrrrrrrdrrrrrdrrrrdrrrrrrrrdrrrrrrrr" (best way I can describe it on here) and happens every single pull. Can only be heard through the knock sensor which makes diagnosing it a real pain, as putting it on the dyno every time I replace a component is not even remotely practical. Normally this would not bother me enough to pursue, but because it is affecting how the car drives on some pulls, it's not something i'm happy to leave alone. He has also suggested that it could potentially be a lifter, but that seems very unlikely as these cars have solid lifters off memory. So I contacted Nissan, and am unable to get a brand new intake cam gear for less than $1,200 which is absolutely absurd. So i'm now contemplating other solutions to my problem, and have been thinking I would actually be better off going aftermarket cams with adjustable cam gears. However my setup is still relatively stock with a few bolt ons (front mount, exhaust, cold air intake, nistune ecu, stock turbo, stock injectors etc). So my questions really are: 1. Are there any other suggestions for what this noise could be? 2. What other solutions would I have rather than paying $1,200 for a gear from Nissan? 3. Would going cams on a setup as stock as this even be worth it? 4. How much power would I lose if I just went adjustable cam gears on the stock cams? On a side note, I have recently replaced the cambelt with a GATES timing kit as I was lead to believe that could have been the culprit. Mechanic told me the previous cambelt had not been done very well, and had likely been overtensioned. So this rules out the cambelt or any related tensioners to it, but could reinforce the idea of the cam gear being the culprit?... Appreciate any and all feedback!
  9. Ok here’s a list of exactly what I’ve done for my r33 neo. This is whilst retaining all r33 bolt ons, plenum, oem coilpacks with the loom, injectors & rail with the loom using a s2 R33 rb25 engine loom and starter motor loom. comtinues to turn really strong, but no firing up. Fuel pump works fine -changed plug for o2 sensor to suit neo -changed vct solenoid plug to suit neo -extended the TPS plugs to reach neo throttle body -reversed cas -variable air control intake solenoid valve plug changed to suit neo & canister purge control valve plug to suit neo That’s about it. IGN relay is there, ecu is in, white thing is plugged in I’m pretty sure it’s in properly.
  10. Good news! my neo 33 is alive. As of a month ago and as everyone knows, when something’s done, something follows. i got my neo started, it randomly died etc. realised the afm wires weren’t even wired so I rewired and now she runs, no dying etc. next step: she’s randomely revving up by itself, my aac valve is wired, so what’s the go?? Cheers fellas. ps, my cas was on the wrong angle Aswell and I’ve changed it back to the angle before I pulled it off and haven’t started her yet since to test, will update on this.
  11. as above can anyone help me with the ecu pinout. it works in the car just does not communicate with the autobox so I think some pinouts are different
  12. Hi my current power F.C. map is for a basic setup including a hks2530 on a rb25 neo. Was mapped to 1.3 bar with usual supporting mods, intercooler, r35 injectors, stock afm etc etc. with a conservative road map the car is away at my mechanics getting a new setup fitted, gtx3076 gen2, 6 boost top mount, turbosmart external gate, stock plenum remains in place. I will plug the standard afm back in, would this be ok to limp back to my home with keeping below 2500rpm and no heavy throttle? i will map it from home with a friend and change to a z32 afm then Next part of my topic its a unopened neo run on 98 ron. Not after lots of power, about 1.4 bar max would be my intended boost, would that be safe enough? I don’t want to risk the engine to much few pics of the fabricators work, I know i expect to hear should have ditched the plenum and throttle body and stuff, but at the lower power goal at this stage it will be fine, next year I may add a head gasket and studs etc, at that point I’ll privably change the plenum thanks all
  13. Hi experts, My timing belt on my 34 GTT slipped mid-freeway driving due to a coolant leak somewhere, and I've bent the valves. My mechanic is still in the process of assessing damage and cost i.e repairable, machining etc but I'm probably up for 1.5 to 3k total. There was mention of valve repair depending on hydraulic or mechanic which was the real dollar figure affecting factor. What advice I'm after is, is it worth spending the money to have the motor repaired that's clocked 212,000k (and obviously plugging the leak) or investing the money in another motor, and if so, another DETNEO if they are easy to find or something else? The car is a daily, I was working towards saving for a little daily shitbox, then this happened. Whats likely the best course of action here? Serious answers would be appreciated, in a bit of a serious situation. I'm no expert, I have a general understanding of my car, which is why I seek the advice of experts such as yourselves. Thanks, Mike
  14. Gentlemen, I present for you a mystery. The short version is; The tank of Shell 98 that I used last week, pretty much right from the beginning of the tank, until I filled it back up on Wednesday, ran really high EGT and in a really odd way. About 450km of this behaviour. I have EGT probe installed through a hole in the top of the turbine housing. Has been there for years. I'm very familiar with what sort of EGTs the car makes. It will settle to <400°C at idle. It will run at ~500-600°C just driving around. It will run >800°C when stomping it hard or driving it fastish up a steep hill. All normal. When it has had a problem in the past (like a bad batch of fuel I had once that caused it to detonate), the temperatures would go spastically high under load, as you'd expect when it's detonating. Last week, it would run up to 900-1000°C at odd times. Sitting at the lights it would continually climb until it got up there. Driving around it would do it. Stomp on it a bit and it would sometimes stay high, sometimes it would settle back to the ~600-700°C territory you might expect. It would also sometimes run normal EGT and sometimes idle down to the <400°C I like to shut it down at. Other times after pulling up to park it, the EGT would just continue to rise through 800°C. I must stress that I did not hear it ping at all. It also felt very normal. It drove the same, it idled at 600rpm, it was just as fast. It wasn't as if it was running a blocked injector and missing some of its fuel, etc etc. As soon as I put 50+ litres of fresh fuel in it, the car went 100% back to normal. So, theories on what would cause it to happen on a single tank of fuel? What could possibly be wrong with the fuel that would make the car seem normal in all other respects but run such high and odd EGTs? Back story on the fuel. I pretty much only use Shell 98, in Adelaide. Occasionally it gets BP98, but I can tell there is a tiny difference in how well it runs, so choose Shell. I use a number of Shell stations and maybe 10-20% of the time I use the one at Golden Grove. This tankful came from GG. The replacement tankful came from the Shell on Churchill Rd. I have occasionally been suspicious of the operation of the engine after fills at GG. Some fluffiness at idle, maybe some pinging (in fact, I think the tank that caused it to ping like a meth addict last year came from there). That sort of stuff. But only vague suspicions, nothing quite as convincing as last week. Has anyone else had a weird result from there, or any other servo in particular?
  15. Hi i have fitted a hks 2530 to my r34 gtt. I know they are not the best match but as a stop gap, what sort of boost level should I run it at, on 98 Ron with usual mods, stock manifolds etc and power fc and what sort of power do they generate thanks
  16. Hey Peoples! Have some parts from my shit box, all these parts were removed from a working Auto RB25DET NEO motor. Stock Used Parts: Cams (IN/EX) - $50 Cam Belt Sprocket & 2x plates (sits on crank) - $10 Cam Idler/Tensioner pulleys - $10 Valve Springs & Retainers - $50 Head Bolts, washers (aka head studs) - $50 Pistons, Connecting Rods (complete) - $200 Air Conditioning Pump & bracket - $100 Stock OEM Brand New Parts: Genuine Nissan RB25DET Head Gasket - $100 Genuine Nissan RB25DET Turbo Outlet Elbow & Dump Gasket $50 Genuine Nissan RB25DET Exhaust Manifold Gasket $50 Great for someone doing a basic rebuild or a slapper job OR someone wanting to pop in DET pistons into their DE motor. Will sell the entire lot for $400 Location: Canley Vale Price: $400 for the lot OR as itemised
  17. What aftermarket ecu's are people running in their 98' R34 four door? I'm still stock as a button auto and wondering How others went with bypassing the immobiliser? Cheers!
  18. Skyline Heart, S Chasis Shell, Hey SAU Members, Long time lurker first time poster. I've wanted an import for as long as I can remember and am finally in a point in life where I can build a car without cutting corners. I have previously owned an R33 that made 320RWKW, but it was built on a budget and just wasn't a car that I was proud of. Sure it was fun, but you pop the bonnet and it just had Chinese copy stuff in there, wasn't neat, wasn't tidy. I work in the industry now and we build big powered cars every day of the week.. just have to take a look in the workshop and there is a 800hp maloo and two 450awhp wrx's in the build process.. About my build Goal... 400RWKW S13 with creature comforts like Aircon, Stereo, Decent suspension.. basically a sunday cruiser with a bit of go about it. Would like to be able to drive it to power cruise, have fun and drive it home. Engine: Started out life as an RB25DET. It currently sits in about a million pieces (pictures to come). CP RB25DET Neo Pistons 86.5m Haven't ordered rods yet.. open to suggestions, but most likely going to go with Oliver or CP rods. STD Stroke. ARP Head Stud Kit HKS Head Gasket RB25 Neo head (I'm still trying to get a hold of one, if anyone has one for sale or knows of one please drop me a PM) Link Fury ECU that I'm wiring in. It's so difficult to find a decent RB loom and I'm wanting to run LS coils anyway. LS Ignition Setup mounted in a secret location Bosch 1650CC Injectors. Twin Walbro 265LPH E85 Pumps PLAZMAMAN Intake Plenum 6 boobs manifold Borg Warner EFR7163 Twin Scroll T4 Turbo RB25det gearbox r200 diff with 5 stud rear conversion Custom NPC Clutch For those of you interested I have a pretty decent audio setup that I had in a Volkswagen that I owned... I'm also planning on running a windows tablet and making a custom centre for it that will be base for all of my music and be hooked up to the link to act as gauges rather than having gauges mounted on the dash.. Hybrid Audio Legatia Carbon 6'' mids Hybrid Auidio L1 Pro Tweeters Mosconi AS200.4 Analog Amp Mosconi AS200.2 Aanalog Amp Mosconi 6to8 Digital Sound Processor So this is my build thread, I'll try update it as I make progress. The attached picture is how my project is starting out life. Lots of hours and fun ahead.. dare say lots of box's of beers haha. Thanks for reading
  19. R32 GTST rb25 neo rebuild So thought I would start a build thread for my 1993 nissan skyline r32 gtst. As the Vic regulars may know, having owned her for 10yrs, the mighty rb20 had never let me down. Always waving the rb20 propaganda flag!! Previously running a hks2530 with all supporting mods, the little '20 was putting out a respectable 230kw atw in its daily trim. Until recently, with 250,000km on the clock, the car started to feel a bit hesitant. A compression test/leak down test revealed a low-compression/leaking cylinder So the first step was to pull off the head in the hopes it was a valve issue... Off with your head.... Sent off the head to be inspected but it showed up all fine??? Confused...so my options were to either bolt it all back together & hope for the best, or start fiddling with the rb20 block... Decided that the easiest option would be to retire the long-serving rb20 & drop in a rb25 NEO and be on my merry way. RIP rb20 Having found & purchased a wrecker rb25 NEO, I felt it would be best to inspect & freshen up before fitting into the r32... Sent the Head & Block off to be inspected & with any gamble in buying second-hand motors, the news wasnt good... Number 1 conrod bearing had spun & caused a bit of damage to the crank. Oil pump drive on the crank nose was also damaged which would indicate the oil pump gears could be damaged as well... Fortunately the seller of the engine was a top-bloke & offered a partial refund as I was still committed to rebuild the engine! So the engine build continues with a freshen-up of the Head with 'Performance Spring' valve springs & retainers on their way from QLD... & for the block - new goodies have been purchased. For the oil pump, I have opted for Lewis Engines oil pump spline gears - controversial? mysterious? - lets see what happens http://www.lewisengines.com.au/new-product-rb-spline-drive-gearsets-and-drive-kits/ and for the block, my arm was twisted into buying CP forged pistons & Manley rods So this is where we land today - a couple of other things happening in the background - rb25 gearbox rebuild & Nismo LSD - but will update once I receive updates myself. Wiring, on the hand, is something i'm putting off at this stage as its not as simple as a r33 rb25 drop-in. The rb20 loom is out & I have a Neo loom to mix/match/hack into...or I might just opt for a Wiring Specialties new loom & save the headache? http://www.wiringspecialties.com/rb25-neo-wiring-harness-r32-gts/ Only time will tell, watch this space & thanks for reading
  20. RB25DET Neo into a R33 Gtst with 33 box Hey Guys, My mate and I have just finished converting his R33 GTST to a RB25 Det Neo, so I thought Id doc the process and what we used of each car Block, head, sump is all Neo Inlet manifold is s1 with a cut n shut top half including throttlebody exhaust manifold is aftermarket from the s1 enginemounts, we used the R33 ones but neo are the same alternator, power steer, A/C are all s1 including the brackets thermostat housing we used the 33 s1 part so we could use the same bottom hose but if u use the neo housing then just use a neo bottom hose coilpacks we used the s1 packs as their only a few months old but they do not fit in the head valley so we made a bracket and mounted them elsewhere WIRING CHANGES vct plug needs swapping to a neo one or EV1 injector plug I beleive is the same CAS wires need to be swaped...ie 1234 becomes 4321 thats it....because we used r33 stuff everything else stayed the same pics to come
  21. Gtv neo turbo swap Hey guys, sorry the noob question, would a neo turbo motor swap straight in to a r34 gtv using gtt engine and dash harness with the speedo still working?
  22. R34 GTT Rebuild - Manifold/Turbo Advice Afternoon all, Long story short, I'm at the stage where my Rb25 Neo requires a rebuild and I need a little advice on the manifold/turbo inlet choice. My goal with this rebuild is a reliable/responsive 300 - 350rwkw. I have decided to rebuild, (forged not stock), the RB25 and not going the 25/30 route. At the moment, I've decided on a GTX3076 and a 6 boost high mount manifold. I have read many, many forums and discussed this with multiple different people including Kyle @ 6Boost. My understanding thus far, Twin Scroll > Single (Quicker Spool) My questions are: What flange am I best to run? T3, T4, VBand? If I am to run Twin Scroll, should I change the housing size? Does a .82 Single Entry flow the same as .82 Twin? A lot of people are telling me to go the GTX3582 route. I don't want more than the 350kw though, as it'll be mainly a street car and I'd actually like to put the power to the ground. (Proper suspension/tyre setup taken into account) Is it better to hit max efficiency on the 3076 or run the 3582? Any other personal thoughts/recommendations are welcome. Cheers, Craig
  23. Selling the complete engine and 4 spd tiptronic transmission out of my R34 Skyline It made 225 rear wheel KW @17psi through the auto Transmission has a MV automatics shift kit, Shifts are real solid. ECU has NISTUNE in it. It has done 125,000km and is running great, regularly serviced. Comes with the following -NEO RB25DET Engine -Transmission with shift kit -Engine and trans wire harness -ECU with nistune -HKS 2540 Turbo (GT2876), with braided oil and water lines -Full 3" Dump pipe to the cat. -Z32 airflow meter. Engine will still be in car for another couple of weeks if you want to see it running and driving, If someone wants to buy it Il pull it out straight away. Im seeling it as Im going different engine and trans $3250 ONO Located on the gold coast Mob: 0402 33 77 94
  24. Due to unfortunate circumstances I am parting out my stag 1999 c34 rs, white, auto, leather interior with wood grain All parts for sale and basically immaculate except: Dolphin front bar (broken), radiator, front reo, Radiator support, Grill, bonnet. Passenger headlight has a crack SOLD Drivers headlight is chipped Drivers indicator/fog light didn't make it home Passenger front quarter damaged near bonnet but probably easilly repairable. Parts which will be of interest: Rb25neo 139,000 kms completely standard $1500 Auto trans $400 Aftermarket trans cooler $50 R34 side mount cooler $50 Genuine dolphin side skirts SOLD Genuine dolphin rear wing $300 Aftermarket door mirrors (built in indicators) $300 Turbo back exhaust, dump pipe to 5" canon $300 Tein super street H/A coilovers SOLD 17" wheels canned black, front tyres almost new, rear or on wear markers $300 Single din climate control unit $150 Wood grain interior SOLD Leather seats $500 full set Contact me for any other parts, all prices o.n.o Located at Seaford Meadows but happy to arrange postage anywhere Contact Lucas 0413 744 433 text only please
  25. I have acquired a front cut and a stack of rear end parts that is basically taking up space in my driveway so it's all gotta go. Prices are very fair already but if you'd like to make a reasonable offer feel free. Bear in mind if I have to package and post the item I may be less receptive to low balls. MORE PICS AND PARTS TO BE UPDATED AS I GO! Pick up Lower Blue Mountains Sydney. Bonnet $100 (pick up only at this stage) Doors $50 each (pick up only)- Driver's door sold, all others still available. Side mirrors $30 pair or $20 each Door cards- not in good condition however the fabric parts could be used to upgrade your existing trim- $Make an, offer pick up only Rs260 (series 1- red trim) door card set in awesome condition $sold Rs260 )series 1- red trim) front seats $200 pair, Front guards $50 each (pick up only) Passenger inner guard liner $30 (pick up only) Driver's side sold Rear tailgate, complete except for boot lock $150 (pick up preferred) Dolphin side skirts and rear bar, would need some repairs $SOLD Block $200 (head sold already, motor had low compression on 6) Op6 turbo $SOLD Gearbox $SOLD Manual conversion $SOLD Steering wheel (manual with airbag) $150 Wiring looms $50 each Rear diff $400 Driveshafts $100 each Hubs $50 each Rear brakes $50 Complete rear cradle (diff, shafts, cradle, hubs etc) $600 Front brakes $80 Brake master and booster $40 each ABS unit $80 Fuel pump/cradle $50 Stock suspension with lowered springs $SOLD Headlights- Passenger side only available $50 Everything else you can see is for sale, make an offer! Sold already: Head, coilpacks, intercooler, front bar, drivers side driveshaft, rims, centre console, power steering pump, 4wd pump, driver's door, drivers side inner guard liner, washer bottle.
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