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Found 147 results

  1. Selling Greddy cam sprocket for rb25det neo/R34 GTT. Allows intake cam adjustment without losing VCT. Item is BRAND NEW. Chasing $450 Located WA, happy to post at buyers expense.
  2. This is a story of how I became broke It all started with a text. " is this this what you've been looking for? One just got dropped of here at the scrap yard!" Meet "Pidge" my 92 240sx coupe junk yard save. The backstory on the car is apparently it was some kids project back in the early 2000 that they had lost interest in after blowing the stock ka24de (you'll see the window in the side of block later on ) and had just left it in their mothers backyard when they left and moved off to college. Well I guess the mother was cleaning her property to get it ready to sell and had dropped it off at the scrap yard a few towns over where I have a friend that works. So instead of letting the scrap yard buy and crush it, he paid her cash for the car so it wouldn't be scrapped and texted me knowing damn good and well he'd be able to make a buck or two off of me. The car its self wasnt in the worst condition it sat as high as most trucks out here in east texas and aside from the silvia front end conversion, and backyard straight pipe exhaust job the car was stock. Which for me was the perfect starting platform. That gave me the a fresh start. Minus the headlights no wiring was hacked up everything was there I could of very easily just pulled the blown ka put a fresh motor in and it would have been back on the road.well that and had a key made. The car had some minor body damage that was apparent upon inspection. The sun roof leaked and the trunks spoiler was almost broken off so the interior was going to need replacing and with the amount of humidity we get out here the under carriage was going to need inspection. Then it was on I towed the car back home and parked her out in my front yard for about 6 months while I tried to find the between two jobs and a family to get all of my parents belongings out of my garage and my garage clean enough to get the car up in the garage Then on December 23rd 2018 it got real the car was finally pushed up into the garage and tare down and a thorough Inspection began.
  3. Hello, names Kyle long time reader of these forums as ive been looking for a r32 for a while now and I am finally a happy owner so thought id make an account haha ! Here is my 89” R32 gts-t (RB25det NEO) Few basic modifications/upgrades coil over suspension, exhaust, fmic, injectors, coils, TD06-20G Kinugawa turbo w/ external gate, powerFC having car tuned in the next week as it is running slightly rich and will have some numbers to share🙂
  4. As my title states I have a question about upgrading the valves on my RB25DET NEO engine. I had a timing belt mishap that decided to bend all 24 of my valves so I am needing to replace them. I brought the head to a machine shop who ordered Ferrea NEO valves (par numbers F1935P & F1933P) and upon arrival they were different than the OEM valves that were in the engine. Keep in mind I have not seen either of these valves in person yet. Supposedly the OEM valves are 6mm at the stem and then about 1cm from the top taper down into a 5mm stem. But the Ferrea valves don't taper down - they just stay 6mm the whole length of the stem - thus is requiring me to replace all my keepers, springs, etc (everything to do with the valves) resulting in a MUCH higher cost than anticipated and much higher cost than I can afford. Essentially what I am wondering is if someone has replaced their valves with Ferrea ones and kept all the other OEM components such as keepers, springs, etc. and had it work just fine. I am starting to wonder if this shop is just trying to get more money out of me.
  5. Good day buddies.... So i have recently installed some Tomei Poncams(Intake 260 9.15 and Exhaust 262 9.15 lift) for my engine (RB25DET NEO).... After they were installed i never checked the shim clearance(p.s shims are above bucket type), due to it being drop in cams and my buddy who installed them never had to re-shim. Unfortunately after i started the car i heard a ticking noise from the back of the head and then investigated the reason of the noise. For a second i taught it was the body oil used(20w50) and i live in the caribbean. So i change the oil to 10w50 and the noise reduce a bit but was still there... When i pop the cam cover and check the clearances this was the results. *Exhaust * Numbers are in "thou" reading 1.0.019 2.0.019 3.0.019 4.0.019 5.0.020 6.0.020 7.0.020 8.0.020 9.0.020 10.0.20 11.0.20 + 0.011 12.0.018 tight or 0.017 AS Tomei recommend there clearances to be .018 thou mine reads close to Nissan specs and never did any head work.... but for when i checked the clearance on valve #11 and #12 i notice that was the problem.... What can cause that such big clearance #11 and tight clearance on #12 ....Btw this is a stock head and never done any head work as my goal was to just see how long the engine can last....
  6. Hey all, Removed my head and its stuffed. I'm after a bare Rb25det neo head to send to the machine shop. Has to be in good condition and come with cam caps. Cheers, Paul
  7. Hey just wanted to add this image here as there is none floating about on the correct layout for the sard jet pump in case anyone got confused by the manual on an R34 GTT 1999. Hope it can help someone out someday.
  8. Hi guys I've been lead to believe by my tuner that my VVT cam gear is making some noise. Around 5000rpm every single pull a noise is picked up by the knock sensor, which keeps going until about 5500rpm at which point it stops, and the ECU sometimes thinks it's knock and pulls timing to compensate. Tuner seems to think it is my intake cam gear, and believes it may be getting a bit noisy for some strange reason. Noise has been described to me almost as a "ddddrrrrrrdrrrrrdrrrrdrrrrrrrrdrrrrrrrr" (best way I can describe it on here) and happens every single pull. Can only be heard through the knock sensor which makes diagnosing it a real pain, as putting it on the dyno every time I replace a component is not even remotely practical. Normally this would not bother me enough to pursue, but because it is affecting how the car drives on some pulls, it's not something i'm happy to leave alone. He has also suggested that it could potentially be a lifter, but that seems very unlikely as these cars have solid lifters off memory. So I contacted Nissan, and am unable to get a brand new intake cam gear for less than $1,200 which is absolutely absurd. So i'm now contemplating other solutions to my problem, and have been thinking I would actually be better off going aftermarket cams with adjustable cam gears. However my setup is still relatively stock with a few bolt ons (front mount, exhaust, cold air intake, nistune ecu, stock turbo, stock injectors etc). So my questions really are: 1. Are there any other suggestions for what this noise could be? 2. What other solutions would I have rather than paying $1,200 for a gear from Nissan? 3. Would going cams on a setup as stock as this even be worth it? 4. How much power would I lose if I just went adjustable cam gears on the stock cams? On a side note, I have recently replaced the cambelt with a GATES timing kit as I was lead to believe that could have been the culprit. Mechanic told me the previous cambelt had not been done very well, and had likely been overtensioned. So this rules out the cambelt or any related tensioners to it, but could reinforce the idea of the cam gear being the culprit?... Appreciate any and all feedback!
  9. Hi all, So this is somewhat of a noob question, and after much searching SAU, FB, and the interwebs, i cannot find any concrete info on how to reset the TPS position on an RB25 neo. Some background on why i need to do this: I had been chasing an electrical gremlin where the car would die after hitting the limiter( which turned out to be an incorrectly set Nistune rev limit parameter). During the whole process, i had checked the TPS voltages, and noticed that when the TPS was closed it read 0.30v, and at WOT it would read 3.63v. The resistance sweep in both directions was correct. Now, obviously this is out of Nissans specified window, and when i try to adjust it, it just idles up (to about 2000rpm) and the TPS IDLE indicator in Nistune does not illuminate, and adjusting the IACV does nothing to reduce the RPM. I've read you could leave the battery disconnected, or cycle the ign on and off 10 times etc etc but none of these have worked. The only thing i have yet to check (which i should have done earlier) is to refit my original Neo auto TB, which i had swapped over to an S2 RB25 TB (because the TSC TB solenoid fouled on my coilpacks), my thinking here is that maybe the S2 TB doesnt open/sweep the same way as the Neo? (im still using the neo TPS) Anyone with any tips? Much appreciated.
  10. Hey guys i made a post in the past about a strange noise my motor has been making on the dyno. It is only heard through the knock sensor when listening in to it, and starts bang on 5krpm and stops around 5.5k every run without fail. Almost sounds like a very fast ‘ddrrddrrddrrddrr’ (best way i can describe the noise on here). Cannot be heard just listening normally. The ECU is picking this noise up and pulling timing occasionaly because of it, but me and my tuner are stumped as to what it is. It appears to be coming from somewhere in the head area of the motor (at least thats what it sounds like). I’m coming here to look for advice on where to look. The cambelt has just been done with all new pulleys is etc, and has been done properly as I was lead to believe that could be a potential culprit. Disabling the VCT does not affect it, noise is there whether that is on or not. Has anyone else had experience with this or any advice on what it could be? Tuner is thinking it may be my intake cam gear, but has never heard of them failing before. Should also add compression is fantastic on all 6 cylinders, and car only has 105,000kms. Any advice and input is much appreciated!
  11. Good news! my neo 33 is alive. As of a month ago and as everyone knows, when something’s done, something follows. i got my neo started, it randomly died etc. realised the afm wires weren’t even wired so I rewired and now she runs, no dying etc. next step: she’s randomely revving up by itself, my aac valve is wired, so what’s the go?? Cheers fellas. ps, my cas was on the wrong angle Aswell and I’ve changed it back to the angle before I pulled it off and haven’t started her yet since to test, will update on this.
  12. Hello, Ive just completed my Rb25det neo swap into my r32. Its having a miss on idle, I get RB's dont idle great anyway but i just wanted to get an idea on what might be causing it. Below vid sounds a bit like my car (but isnt my car) My engine is fully stock, just front mount and a walbro fuel pump. I have a cheap FPR I'll chuck in to make sure its not getting too much fuel. I have only done one pull since the swap and it felt ok, I just wanted to make sure it was safe before I take it for a proper drive. Cheers
  13. Hey everyone, for the life of me i cant find a diagram for a rb26det neo. I have noticed im missing this vacuum line and i cannot find where it is meant to go. Thank you
  14. Hi, after a r34 rb25det neo engine complete with all bolt ons, wiring loom and ecu. the lower the km and unmodified the better. Prefer for it to be in Melbourne for inspection and pickup. Thanks
  15. Hi guys - Apologies if this is the wrong section So recently had my R34 GTT tuned running an RB25DET neo. Tuner said that at around 5000rpm he can hear a noise when listening in through the knock sensor. The ECU is picking it up as knock sometimes but it isn't actually knock. He said its almost a metal-on-metal sounding noise, and it starts at 5000rpm and dissapears at 5.5 every single time. Cannot hear it from outside the car, only when listening in through the knock sensor. I'm hoping for some help in narrowing down what it is. My dyno numbers are perfectly fine (will upload the sheet later tonight), power curve is stable etc. He believes it is something harmonic related as it is only at that RPM range. Have done runs with VCT disabled and it still makes it so that is not the culprit. He has suggested to me that it may be the intake cam gear although he's very rarely heard of them failing. My issue is they are a stupidly expensive part to replace for a "potential" fix. His other suggestions have been potential scoring on the cam lobes. Have you guys got any input on this? So noise starts every single run at basically dead on 5000rpm, stops at 5500. Almost a really fast " drdrdrdrdrdr" noise (best way i can describe it). One other thought by him was potentially a lifter. Unsure if this matters, but the car's running an S2 RB25DET neo, nistune ECU, 14psi boost, front mount, full exhaust, cold air intake. Car is also only 104,000kms. Car still drives perfectly fine and would have had no idea anything was making noise had he not told me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  16. Hey guys. first of all i would like to say sorry if i have put this post in the wrong place, this is my first post. i have bought this r34 NA and all the vacuum lines are disconnected. im having trouble finding pictures or diagrams of the vacuum lines for a NA rb25de neo. does any one have a diagram or pictures of theirs please?
  17. Ok here’s a list of exactly what I’ve done for my r33 neo. This is whilst retaining all r33 bolt ons, plenum, oem coilpacks with the loom, injectors & rail with the loom using a s2 R33 rb25 engine loom and starter motor loom. comtinues to turn really strong, but no firing up. Fuel pump works fine -changed plug for o2 sensor to suit neo -changed vct solenoid plug to suit neo -extended the TPS plugs to reach neo throttle body -reversed cas -variable air control intake solenoid valve plug changed to suit neo & canister purge control valve plug to suit neo That’s about it. IGN relay is there, ecu is in, white thing is plugged in I’m pretty sure it’s in properly.
  18. Hey guys, bought a series 2 RB25DET neo and now looking for a loom to suit. Will a loom out of an s1 work with the s2 motor?
  19. Hi everyone, I just bought a Nissan Skyline R34 GT that has a Rb25de NA motor which they turbo it with an ebay turbo. So the previous guy blew the block due to high compression and I bought it from him. I recently took the motor out and swapped a Rb25det Neo. I had to rewire all the harness to fit because of the previous NA motor which it doesnt have the same connectors as the neo. Now the I dont have a oil temp wire to connect. I was wondering if anyone had an extra oil temp wire and oil pressure sensor. I want to know if anyone has done a swap from a N/A into a Neo turbo. Please tell me about your experience and how you made it work. Thanks!
  20. Hi All, I am trying to finish off my build on my R34 RB25DET NEO and want to make sure what i have going on with my coolant lines wont cause any stagnant flow or air pockets. I am running a plazmaman Intake manifold and throttle body, and also a Haltec IACV so i dont have any coolant lines running to those. I have the turbo coolant returning to the back of the intake runners (Orange cable tie) And i was going to cut the nipples of the top of the runners and tap and plug those (Blue/Yellow, Yellow/Yellow) And also Plug next to the thermostat housing. Does this sound alright or am i going to have stagnant flow and airpockets in the intake runners? The other option is for a swirl pot, but in the strive for simplicity and aesthetics i would rather not install one unless needed. Cheers,
  21. So the other day I took my 34 gtt to work, it’s running a 3076 6 boost power F.C. and z32 etc etc, got to work fine which was a 8 mile basic commute with the last mile a poor road surface anyway came out of work to drive home and noticed a miss or a bit lumpy, looked down at the wideband and it’s running 18 or so to 1. So very lean. From idle to cruise right through its lean I went into the power commander fuel adjustment and dumped the fuel in up to 1.3 to get it running smoothly and back to about 15:1 and limped the car home so first investigation was car seemed low on fuel so chucked a can in, in case it was to low, also inspected some hoses and noticed the pipe on my z32 afm to turbo was not sealed perfect, it wasn’t off much but I squared it up and tightened it anyway, started the car and it seemed spot on so assumed it was fixed, 15 minute test drive and all was fine so put the car back in the garage Went to take it a run tonight and reversed it out of the garage and it’s lean again, at idle and through revs do just put it back in the garage, any pointers ? its a fairly recent top mount turbo install and map, 300zx fuel filter and a new Walbro was fitted at map time 500-700 mile ago just. Injectors are r35 gtr and also low miles. Voltage still regulates for pump so would like that hard wired, I want to swap a different z32 in too just to rule it out but any other ideas ?
  22. So I’ve got my neo from a 34, manually converted and dropped into my 33. i know it’s been covered but can’t ffind much to help my needS. Who has done the conversion? Using the neo engine loom.. what plugs straight in and what wiring needs to be done? What have other people done in the past?
  23. R34 GTT Rebuild - Manifold/Turbo Advice Afternoon all, Long story short, I'm at the stage where my Rb25 Neo requires a rebuild and I need a little advice on the manifold/turbo inlet choice. My goal with this rebuild is a reliable/responsive 300 - 350rwkw. I have decided to rebuild, (forged not stock), the RB25 and not going the 25/30 route. At the moment, I've decided on a GTX3076 and a 6 boost high mount manifold. I have read many, many forums and discussed this with multiple different people including Kyle @ 6Boost. My understanding thus far, Twin Scroll > Single (Quicker Spool) My questions are: What flange am I best to run? T3, T4, VBand? If I am to run Twin Scroll, should I change the housing size? Does a .82 Single Entry flow the same as .82 Twin? A lot of people are telling me to go the GTX3582 route. I don't want more than the 350kw though, as it'll be mainly a street car and I'd actually like to put the power to the ground. (Proper suspension/tyre setup taken into account) Is it better to hit max efficiency on the 3076 or run the 3582? Any other personal thoughts/recommendations are welcome. Cheers, Craig
  24. Hey everyone, I recently discovered that my camshaft had been over tighten when installing the head back on my motor. This caused the camshaft to bind and SNAP. Anyway, so now the front cam cradle is roughly .003in lower than the rest of the head after machining the scratches. So now I need a new head, as I looked online, I seemed to find a lot of RB25DET Neo heads but no series 1 or series 2 heads. Is it possible to switch everything over to the neo head and bolt it up to a series 1 block? If not, does anyone have a good condition series 1 or 2 head for sale? Thank you!
  25. Hi my current power F.C. map is for a basic setup including a hks2530 on a rb25 neo. Was mapped to 1.3 bar with usual supporting mods, intercooler, r35 injectors, stock afm etc etc. with a conservative road map the car is away at my mechanics getting a new setup fitted, gtx3076 gen2, 6 boost top mount, turbosmart external gate, stock plenum remains in place. I will plug the standard afm back in, would this be ok to limp back to my home with keeping below 2500rpm and no heavy throttle? i will map it from home with a friend and change to a z32 afm then Next part of my topic its a unopened neo run on 98 ron. Not after lots of power, about 1.4 bar max would be my intended boost, would that be safe enough? I don’t want to risk the engine to much few pics of the fabricators work, I know i expect to hear should have ditched the plenum and throttle body and stuff, but at the lower power goal at this stage it will be fine, next year I may add a head gasket and studs etc, at that point I’ll privably change the plenum thanks all
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