Search the Community

Hey all. I know there is a plethora of information about Hypergear turbos on these threads, with Tao providing a heap of Dyno results. I was looking at Hypergear's ATR45-SAT (Special application turbocharger) as it will directly bolt on to my existing setup, with some basic fabrication/relocation of some intake piping, and will suffice for my 300-350rwkw power figure I am after with my current setup for street use. Only thing is he doesnt provide any specs from what I can see on the size of the housings, or any sizings of inlets/outlets, which I thought would be basic information you would provide there for your customers to see when deciding to choose your product, like other turbo sellers do. Has anyone got some of their own feedback and dyno results on that specific turbo? Was also looking at Kinugawa turbos that were a direct bolt on, and had heard good things about them, I dont think theyre as popular as they used to be, but has anyone had one recently theyve purchased and used? Any other recommendations with reasoning as to why they went with it?

Hey guys. Need to get the head machined, as a leak down test showed some major leaking coming from the exhaust valves in cylinders 5 and 6. Im looking at upgrading the cams, valve springs, and they will replace the usual little bits and pieces as part of a head refurbishment. Any other things I should do while the heads off?

Looking for a bolt on turbo to retain the stock low mount of my R34 GTT. Interested in anything from a Highflow OP6 to above... Bolt on = low mount, standard manifold, standard 6 bolt dump pipe pattern please.

Hi All, I'm chasing a set of 6 fuel injectors for my R34 RB25DET NEO. Prefer a brand new set that you may no longer need! Standard 14mm rail - 3/4 length. Would like to retain the stock wiring loom - so if you have wiring adapters for bosch/ID/Siemens, great! Oh, and I'm chasing the 250-300rwkw mark (still undecided).

currently got my eye on a 33, seeing if anyone knows the previous owner (as cannot be contacted) 1996 white series 2 with bn kit, 18" mesh wheels and r34 neo engine, cant be too many around. just want to know of mods/history etc before i try and buy it number plates plates CC 053* cheers!!

Up for sale is my beloved 2000 Y34 Nissan Cedric. I'm its 2nd AUS owner since it arrived back in 08. The car has been well maintained, runs like a dream, hasn't had any mechanical issues & is silky smooth to drive. No real mods apart from the wheels, being slightly lowered to get rid of the 4x4 spec & a boost controller. The car was always a cruiser & a head turner were ever it went. The reclining rear seats are also quite the treat for passengers! I will miss that! It also comes with a nice jap>eng translation book to help with navigating the dash and its many features. It's pretty easy, I got the hang of it after a few days. Additional info from its 1st AUS owner: 'This vehicle started out as a VQ30DET CVT and soon after its arrival in 2008 the CVT blew up.I sourced an RB25DET Neo from the same car and began the swap. After countless hours after work and weekends, its finally finished, and the best part is that EVERYTHING works! This is and will most likely remain to be the only RB25DET powered Y34 to be ever in the country (unless someone personal imports one). ' Vehicle details: 2000 Nissan Y34 Cedric 146,xxx kms on chasis 126,xxx kms on engine RWD RB25DET Neo 4 speed Automatic Greddy Elec Boost Controller Leather and woodgrain interior 19" Genuine Work Rims Stretched tyres 225/30/19 front - 98% , 245/30/19 rears - 80% Lowered springs ABS Quad airbags Tri-zone climate control 6 stack CD player TV with RCA inputs Adjustable reach and tilt steering column Electric front seats Reclinable rear seats (daamn!) Electric mirrors Electric windows Power steering (silky smooth) Remote keyless entry with central locking Xenon headlights and driving lights Autolock boot Programable Multi Control Unit to control auto functions (windows up, lights dim, etc..) Steering wheel MCU controls Rear MCU controls Air purifier system 8inch sub Price $20,000 ONO Phone 0429 103 257 Email [email protected] Would consider trade + cash adjustment my way for 79v Subaru Forester GT Manual.

Hello SAU.. Regretfully up for sale is my r32 skyline.. This car has been mine for the past 2 years and am the second owner in Australia. Has always been serviced every 5000km with regular oil and fluid changes along with many upgrades and tidying up. Year: 1990 Make: Nissan Skyline Model: R32 Gts-t Kms: 145,000 Rego: November 2013 Transmission: Manual Colour: Black Pearl Metallic Modifications: Has had a R34 RB25det NEO transplant which was only done January last year and running standard boost Timing belt was replaced when motor put in Nismo engine mounts, Solid rear cradle mounts Custom stainless steel dump pipe and full 3" Apexi exhaust system New Clutch master cylinder NPC heavy duty cushioned organic button clutch Walbro 255L/hr fuel pump 40mm triple core alloy radiator Rota Grid wheels with 90% tread on all 4 tyres r33 gts-t 5 stud brake and hub upgrade HEL braided brake lines SRI adjustable rear camber arms TEIN Mono control master coilover (height and damper fully adjustable) upgraded r33 diff r32 GTR front mount cooler with custom piping r32 gtr bonnet and carbon fibre grill r32 gtr front bar (fibreglass) custom power steering cooler custom cold air intake rear guards rolled gearbox recently serviced with Redline lightweight shockproof oil CD player with USB & bluetooth connectivity, front and rear splits (sub + amp was removed but can be inc) Other: AC removed, Hicas system removed (inc solenoid and lines), speedo cable snapped.. Extra: Alot of money has been spent on conversion and no shortcuts were taken, very nice car to drive, solid and straight, new owner will definatley be pleased !! Price: $9500 text Nathan on 0423 459 086 or PM for details etc Can inc following items for additional cost decided on settlement driftworks total hicas eliminator kit (BRAND NEW) GReddy Profec boost controller (BRAND NEW)

I have acquired a front cut and a stack of rear end parts that is basically taking up space in my driveway so it's all gotta go. Prices are very fair already but if you'd like to make a reasonable offer feel free. Bear in mind if I have to package and post the item I may be less receptive to low balls. MORE PICS AND PARTS TO BE UPDATED AS I GO! Pick up Lower Blue Mountains Sydney. Bonnet $100 (pick up only at this stage) Doors $50 each (pick up only)- Driver's door sold, all others still available. Side mirrors $30 pair or $20 each Door cards- not in good condition however the fabric parts could be used to upgrade your existing trim- $Make an, offer pick up only Rs260 (series 1- red trim) door card set in awesome condition $sold Rs260 )series 1- red trim) front seats $200 pair, Front guards $50 each (pick up only) Passenger inner guard liner $30 (pick up only) Driver's side sold Rear tailgate, complete except for boot lock $150 (pick up preferred) Dolphin side skirts and rear bar, would need some repairs $SOLD Block $200 (head sold already, motor had low compression on 6) Op6 turbo $SOLD Gearbox $SOLD Manual conversion $SOLD Steering wheel (manual with airbag) $150 Wiring looms $50 each Rear diff $400 Driveshafts $100 each Hubs $50 each Rear brakes $50 Complete rear cradle (diff, shafts, cradle, hubs etc) $600 Front brakes $80 Brake master and booster $40 each ABS unit $80 Fuel pump/cradle $50 Stock suspension with lowered springs $SOLD Headlights- Passenger side only available $50 Everything else you can see is for sale, make an offer! Sold already: Head, coilpacks, intercooler, front bar, drivers side driveshaft, rims, centre console, power steering pump, 4wd pump, driver's door, drivers side inner guard liner, washer bottle.

Hi guys, I'm after a 34GT-T Neo intake camshaft, also the VCT gear and bolt if possible. And also the solenoid. Brisbane area prefered. Contact via pm. Cheers, Sean

Chasing a complete rb25det neo with loom and ecu. Must be in perfect condition, low k's and not messed with. Brisbane area preferred. I will not buy an engine interstate without viewing it and fully testing it myself. 0433559722. .

want to buy a standard r34 Gt-t ecu from an automatic only will pay $120 or swap for manual series 1 r33 ecu (manual) also looking for standard r34 gt-t throttle body with TPS sensor R34 intercooler (piping and core) bolt on (no cutting front bar or battery tray) im located in nsw penrith 2750 but will travel or pay postage r34 GTT coil packs 0429827461 Gareth

Looking to buy rb30/25 setup stock or worked, or a worked head to suit rb25neo. Car is due for it's major, so i thought why not just do it properly xD any advice will be great as i am quite useless with what will work engine-wise. Cheers

Has Anyone got an r34 crank pulley / harmonic balancer??!! turbo model only! r34gtt rb25det NEO pully! please contact [email protected] or if in New zealand contact 022 393 0284. $$ Thanks.

Due to unfortunate circumstances I am parting out my stag 1999 c34 rs, white, auto, leather interior with wood grain All parts for sale and basically immaculate except: Dolphin front bar (broken), radiator, front reo, Radiator support, Grill, bonnet. Passenger headlight has a crack SOLD Drivers headlight is chipped Drivers indicator/fog light didn't make it home Passenger front quarter damaged near bonnet but probably easilly repairable. Parts which will be of interest: Rb25neo 139,000 kms completely standard $1500 Auto trans $400 Aftermarket trans cooler $50 R34 side mount cooler $50 Genuine dolphin side skirts SOLD Genuine dolphin rear wing $300 Aftermarket door mirrors (built in indicators) $300 Turbo back exhaust, dump pipe to 5" canon $300 Tein super street H/A coilovers SOLD 17" wheels canned black, front tyres almost new, rear or on wear markers $300 Single din climate control unit $150 Wood grain interior SOLD Leather seats $500 full set Contact me for any other parts, all prices o.n.o Located at Seaford Meadows but happy to arrange postage anywhere Contact Lucas 0413 744 433 text only please

Want to buy: All to suit R34, rb25det neo. Neo engine cover Drivers seat belt Drivers side wiper arm Headlights - these need to be in good condition with no snapped tabs, preferably standard without H1 conversion Manual shift stick - from the gbox into centre console, the one with the thread Manual gear shift surround/trim + boot Preferably located Perth, but will cop shipping if I can't get it anywhere here. Cheers.

Hi all, This may seem like a relatively easy thing to do, but I have just finished changing mine out and had a ridiculously hard time removing the lines. For anyone wanting to save a few bucks and change it out themselves I just thought this could help them out with this thread. This will be aimed at an R34 rb25det neo, but it's all pretty much the same. (will update with pictures later) Parts required: Ryco Z201 Time taken: Allow 1/2 hour Tools: 1/4 driver ratchet with 10 and 13mm socket Phillips head screwdriver Flat head screw driver Multigrips Vice (can be done without, but EXTREMELY useful) 7/16 or 11/12/13 mm open ended spanner (not needed, but makes the job easier) Rags or container Torch/Light Park the car in a garage/shady spot where you will do the work. Let the car cool unless you want to get burnt (dunno maybe you're into that kind of stuff). Step 1 - Depressurize the fuel system. Inside the drivers kick panel is a fuse pack, revealed by lifting a tab and taking out a rectangular plastic panel. In the top row of the fuses there should be 10 | 10 | 10 | 15 amp fuses. Using needle nose pliers, remove the 15A fuse (should be the one closest to the door). This is the fuse for the fuel pump. Once removed, try to start the car. If it starts, let it run and splutter out, then try to start again. This is just allowing the injectors to inject the remaining high pressure fuel in the system so when you remove the filter there isn't any chance of hydraulic injection. Step 2 - Isolate the car This step isn't absolutely required, but you are working in close proximity and will be leaning over close to the battery. If you don't mind losing your programmed radio stations, it would be a good idea for piece of mind. Step 3 - Removal of the filter I tried just removing the hose clamps from around the filter in/out lines, but if it hasn't been changed in a long time like mine - best of luck to you - I had to wrench the puppy in a vice, which showed that I had no chance while it was still in the car. After long periods of time the rubber retains it's shape where the clamp is, and makes it super tight. Locate the filter on the drivers side of the engine bay. From the in side of the filter, there should be a rubber hose connecting to a metal line via a hose clamp, using a 10mm socket, undo the clamp and let it slide down onto the metal line. Give the line a gentle yank. Not moving? Yeah, neither did mine. The easist way I found was using the 7/16 spanner, slide it onto the metal line and use it to pull the rubber up off the line. PRECAUTION: It will be tight, watch out to not slip and slice yourself on something. PRECAUTION # 2: There WILL be fuel in the line. Not much, but there will be. Don't have any sources of ignition nearby (another reason why having the battery disconnected is a good idea) and rags to clean the fuel. Option 1: Pull it off and use a rag to try capture as much of the fuel. Option 2: Place a container directly under the line on the floor and catch it on the way down. I just let mine drip, I'm a badass like that. From the out side of the filter, it will lead to a fitting near the intake manifold. Remove the clamp, and using a flat head screwdriver - pry it away from the fitting and use the spanner to pull it the rest of the way. Again, there will be fuel in the line. Less this time, but have a rag ready. Your filter should now be free with a line on each end. Take note which way the filter was sitting in the car (hopefully "OUT" was feeding your fuel rail) and what lines go on which end. Step 4 - Change out the filter Place the filter in a vice with one end of the filter where the rubber line starts in line with the edge of the vice. Doesn't matter if you overtighten it, the filter should be going in the bin anyway, Undo the clamp on the line, and using the multigrips twist the line to just free it up. Pry it off with the screwdriver/spanner combo (if it really hard to get off - using 2 flat head screwdrivers and the sides of the vice as leverage points may help. Just watch not to slip and cut yourself). Repeat on the other side, and replace the lines on the new filter - correct lines for IN/OUT, etc. Make sure there isn't any dirt and shit in the lines when you put them on, especially in the out side, as it will be unfiltered straight to your injectors. Step 5 - Replace everything Grab the clamps from the metal line and slide it on the rubber before you install it, makes it a little easier, doesn't matter what order you do it. Don't over tighten the clamps, remember when you removed them they were not overly tight. Remember to grab all your tools from the engine bay, and clean up all the spilt fuel, especially before putting the battery terminal back on. Put the negative back on the battery (yes it may spark, hope you cleaned your mess) and put the fuse back into the correct spot. Before starting your car, turn the key to IGN - the fuel pump has to prime the system (bring it up to operating pressure), so now is a good time to look for leaks. Just check all the lines that you tampered with, make sure nothing is leaking. If it isn't, start your car and away you go! Congratulations, you just saved yourself $50 from a mechanic. If anyone has any input, questions, advice or a better way of doing this, let me know and I can put in on here. Cheers for reading. (Y)

1998 R34 GTT Tiptronic Sedan. Excellent condition. SOLD color=#ff0000][/color] 0421 973 558 Up for sale is our 98 R34 GTT tiptronic sedan. The car was imported in 2011 with 86,000kms and I am the first Australian owner. I have most of the import documentation. The car is in excellent condition with 117,000km on the clock. The exterior is almost blemish fresh, save for a car park dent on the passenger side rear door and some superficial scuffs. The interior is in as new condition. The car has factory option Nismo clear front and side indicators and carbon fiber overlays between the doors. I have fitted an Apexi cat back exhaust, stainless door sill scuff plates and a carbon fiber dash insert. (I still have all the original parts). It still has the Japanese stereo fitted as it picked up our preferred radio station. The car drives exceptionally well and is in A1 mechanical condition. I would prefer not to sell it, but my wife struggles with getting the pram in the boot. The car has new tyres fitted 3 months ago and won't need much for a RWC and has 11 months of rego. I would consider a swap for a Stagea with a cash adjustment negotiable based on vehicle condition/sale price. Cheers Scott

Hi all, I am after a set of Neo Rb25de cams. I have searched the for sale section, but nothing newer than 08/09 could be found. Maybe I'm just a little crap at searching? Anyway, if you have a set bumming around, let me know. Cheers, Jono.

Hi guys, As per title, I'm looking for an ECU to suit myself RS4S Stagea. Hoping to have somewhere local to avoid postage. Thanks

[WTB] [VIC] RB25 NEO Splitfire Coilpacks As title suggests, need a good working set. Definetly need pickup so Vic is a must. Please let me know what you have! Cheers! Kurt.

Gtv neo turbo swap Hey guys, sorry the noob question, would a neo turbo motor swap straight in to a r34 gtv using gtt engine and dash harness with the speedo still working?

WTB - r34gtt / Stagea Neo rb25det CAS After one in/near Brisbane or I will pay for postage.

WTB: RB25DET Neo engine from R34 GTT/Stagea [VIC] My engine decided to pack it in so I'm looking for a replacement one. If you have one available – or know someone else who does – please PM through photos from every side, engine number, approximate kms and what type of car it came from etc. Here's what I'm after: Short or long RB25DET Neo turbo engine 1998 onwards Clean and in good condition, with even compression across all cylinders Preferably under 100,000 kms Preferably from a stock donor car (ideally grandpa's auto R34 GTT sedan lol) Ancillaries optional, I can swap over mine. Turbo not required If the head has been pulled I'll need a receipt for what was done in terms of refresh, head gasket, studs etc. I will need some paperwork on where the engine came from (preferably with a chassis VIN), and also a written receipt for the sale so that the swap can be registered with VicRoads I'm keen to find the engine in Vic so it can be thoroughly inspected before purchase; if it can be viewed running, even better. I am fairly thorough and will ask a million questions so if you're selling from the back of a van I'd rather not waste your time. Contact details for decent Melbourne wreckers are welcome, too. Thanks guys!

WTB: RB25DET AWD Engine Willing to Buy RB25DET AWD engine RB25DET AWD engine off a Stagea or equivalent. Preferably low kilometers but not a big issue. Compression should be good. No variances between cylinders. It would be better if I could get it with a wiring harness. Pm or Send Text to 0417764194.

as above can anyone help me with the ecu pinout. it works in the car just does not communicate with the autobox so I think some pinouts are different