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Build Thread

  1. Hey everyone, I have a Nissan skyline 350GT CPV35 2004 and I just changed the clock spring. (OEM PART FROM NISSAN DEALERSHIP) Been driving it for a month, after getting the codes cleared, and the car tested from the auto electrician. The ABS has been kicking in way more than normal. My old clock spring I didn't even notice it but driving fast through bends and corners makes the car "spaz" out with the abs sounds and tries overly breaking for me, to the point wheres its feels dangerous. Should I get it retuned? Take it back to the auto electricians? Any advice would help.
  2. Hey everyone, I've got an R34 GTT manual turbo from an auction. The goal is to get it road registered in WA but I've ran into some issues and I need some help. I took it for a test drive today and the following happened: All 4 wheels/brakes siezed after driving approx 3km with no issues and an idle warm up. Smelt burning and saw smoke coming from engine bay, passenger side, but no drastic change in temp on gauges. never happened when idle testing. Idling poorly after driving Things that I know need to be fixed on the car prior to this happening: No immobilizer and a lot of loose wiring around the column (pictured) Fans and AC don't blow out Needs wheel allignment Needs new clutch, struggles going into gears etc. Needs new gearbox oil The plan was to get the immobilizer installed tomorrow but it now has to go to a mechanic to get these new issues fixed. I would be grateful for any ideas and advice.
  3. Been searching everywhere to find the transmission yoke for my 99 y34 gloria cvt and no luck at all can anyone help
  4. If the page links doesn't work, please manually enter the page number into URL for the corresponding page. This post was updated on: 01/06/2017: This thread is here providing information on our high flowed or built turbos as well as installation and trouble shooting. I'm happy to help or assist with every one who is currently using or looking to purchase our products or services. Brief Introduction about our selves: We are Australian based turbocharger manufacture in Melbourne, We worked with experienced and skilled local engineers to produce our goods and we've been doing that since Oct 2007. We constantly update our production turbochargers and will do our best deliver value to our customers. My name is Stao you can PM or contact 0413457185 if any assistance is required. For our High flowed RB25 Turbos, they comes in 21U or OP6 from factory. The 21U rear housings are smaller can capable of 430HP after high flowing, and larger OP6 are capable of doing around 460HP. PU high flow option is available for any one chasing for 450 to 500HP. They are built with a larger .82 internally gated turbine housing with Nissan OEM bolton pattern, braided oil feeding line and a high pressure actuator. Below is the Rb25det Hitach turbo high flow catalog with few dyno sheets. ATR43SS is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based with OEM dump pipe pattern. This series is specifically engineered for speed with smooth street driving ability. ATR43 is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based comes in .63 and .82 turbine housing with OEM dump pipe pattern. Power is rated from 450HP to 600HP depends on profile chosen. Initial release date: 24/08/2009: We also carry out turbocharger repairs, housing/CHRA modifications and high flow services for All Garrett, HKS, Mitsubishi, Toyota, KKK and Made in China turbochargers. Do feel free to PM / contact us for free assistance. Check (if you live in usa): Costco Weekly Ad, or Supercheap Auto Catalogue. Important Installation Notes for RB2xdet Highflowed and PU units: Sleeve bearing turbochargers requires higher volume of oil flow, are sold with 50cm long braided oil feeding line line that replaces the standard oil restrictor in side factory oil lines, 12mm benjo bolt, and a M12x1.25mm speed flow adaptor. The adaptor goes onto the engine block, benjo bolts goes into the bearing housing with hollow screw supplied. 3x copper washers are required during installation, Which we can supply them for $9 additional or can be purchased at local auto stores. Factory water lines: T3x bearing housing used are 3mms shorter then OEM Hitachi's bearing housings. Means water lines needs to be very slightly bent / forced backwards. Stock actuator: We normally modify the factory actuator's fitting bracket allowing it for a bit of preloading. The actuator bracket bolt wholes has to be filed 5mms towards the turbine housing if not received with the turbo or getting fitted by others. Once done it can be adjust and pre-load ensuring the waste gate is 100% shut. For PU high flowed and ATR43 units with larger Diameter turbine housings, the engine side water line needs to be slightly bent / altered around the housing area. Installing ATR43 turbocharger: ATR43 units generally runs on a round 3inches inlet and round 2 inches out let. It is highly recommended to run a metal intake pipe. How ever if you wish to bolton to stock gears you need: 1x 3inch straight hose, 1x 2.5inch metal sleeve, 1x 2inches 90 degrees hose, 1x 2inches metal sleeve. We can supply all those parts for $100 extra. Tip for a easy installation would be removing the actuator with bracket pre-installation, that would allow lot more room for your tools to reach the manifold studs, and install the actuator and bracket back on after the rest of the installation is complete. Make sure the actuator is preloaded by roughly 3mms. Since larger turbine housings are used, due to larger physical size most of them would be taller then stock pushing the exhaust back by roughly 15mms. Most cars would be running an aftermarket exhausts, depending on the angle of the pre-made dump / front pipe, check the clearance between that to the Air-con water drain pipe. If fouls, simply by pulling it back with zip ties and secure it on the chassis. ATR43Gx/SS2 DIY with photos ATR43SS1xx DIY with photos and video Easy Induction pipes: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-78 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-89 Couple of extremely important factors: 1. After turbo installation do check pressure leaks ( I can make you a simple plug with a hose nipple for $50). Turbo will not perform if there are leaks. 2. Most of our turbos are installed with a 18psi high pressure actuator. by pass all boost controlling devices on test run, Boost gain from EBC based on stock actuator will cause massive boost creep. 3. Make sure the car's got a at least 3inch metal induction pipe with pod filter. Do not run those metal stuffed stock intake pipe. 4. An good exhaust system should restrict no more then 10KWs (My HKS silent power made 3KWs restrictions on a 316rwkws application). So Dyno tune with cat and exhaust dropped, (front pipe only). Do a touch up run with exhaust on after tuning, Get a better exhaust if you see a massive power drop with exhaust. If above procedures are followed you will definitely get the desired power goal. Also people with RB25det R33s. pay attention to those 20 years old valve springs and valves. Mine were all chewed out and worped possibly from valve float. That will act as boost leak, causing lose in power and response. Recommend stronger valve springs. Order, dispatch and mechanic services: All turbochargers are specifically built to suit customer's orders. We need in average 3 to 5 working days to have the order complete. We normally send with Australian post registered post with insurance, which generally takes 3 working days for delivery. We have 2x clients workshops in Melbourne which can carry out the installation service for $200, or onsite service for $250. For tuning, I personally use and recommend Status, and Dr.drift. ECU: For R33 RB25det I've personally used Adaptronic Plugin ECU and highly recommend it. The RRP price on this mode is $1499, We offer $400 discount of total if it is purchased with any of our turbochargers or high flow / rebuild service. Discount also apply for any customers whom is currently owning one of our built or high flowed turbochargers. Please check ECU features, results and discussion in page 113~116.
  5. Good Evening All! I am new to this forum and am very pleased to be here as it means I have finally bought my dream car, and 1998 R34 GTT. I have been coveting a skyline since I was a kid and after owning many many different cars I decided I would buy my lifer, the one I had really wanted but had fallen by the wayside. There is just one problem.. It. Is. Ugly. As. Sin. Seriously the last owner must of not cleaned it the entire miserable time he owned it, not to mention deciding that carparks were the perfect place to practice his destruction derby skills, then covering it in "hilarious" bandaid stickers as if to say "whoops". There is a good chance this car is the ugliest one in NSW however under the dust and grime and cosmetic damage I could see a glimmer of potential. I was concerned for it when I saw it, and by the time I drove it home I was in love with it. Brace yourselves you may want a drink before looking at these, much to my wife's credit she trusted me to buy this (for a bargain of a price), keep in mind these pictures make the car actually look BETTER than it did in person.
  6. Hello all, I've been contemplating about putting a red top Barra engine into a R32 gtst coupe to make it a good reliable weekend warrior drift car and a daily driver at the same time. That's why I am here to ask some questions and learn from yall. Since the Barra makes a lot more torque even in stock form, should I use a stronger diff from other brands or will a Nismo 2 way LSD do just fine? Also what axles would you recommend? (preferably if the items are compatible with the R32 without a lot of fabrication) I've heard the Barra comes with a T56 manual 6 speed gearboxe, does the shifter still sit at the OEM location as the R32 original one? In terms of the Barra engine itself I've done some research and learned that you need to address the valve springs and change to billet oil pump gears and so on, more suggestions will be appreciated as I want to learn as much as possible! (I am most likely going to go about 550whp/410kw and keep the power at that level, not chasing too much power.) Also here is one big question: How much kg does the Barra long block itself weight? I've been searching on the internet and couldn't seem to find a confident answer. I want to know this because I want the car to have good handling, some people say the Barra is heavier than a RB30, some people say its actually lighter than both a JZ or RB, if anyone here has measured a Barra long block on a scale please let me know ? If there are more things that I should look into please feel free to add ? Thanks in advance!! ?
  7. Hello! I’ve read multiple post on similar issues as I’m having but following their steps hasn’t brought me much closer to solving my issue it feels like. So, I created a new one! Issue: I installed a brand new alternator after thinking my old alternator was the issue but I’m having the same problems. The alternator is not charging the battery at 14v resulting in constant recharge to be able to drive it for another 5 days before the voltage gets too low that it can be harmful to multiple components. When car is off: 12.43V When car is on: 12.51V Diagnose: With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the negative probe to the negative side of the battery. Then, I measured all the grounds on the alternator while car is on. Negative Side of Alternator alternator ground to block: 0.05V alternator case: 0.05V alternator bracket: 0.04V alternator battery power stud: 2.5V alternator Battery power nut: 2.5V chasis to block where alternator ground is hooked up to: 0.05V Grounds around alternator: 0.05V With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the positive probe to the positive side of the battery. Then, I measured Voltage drop while car is on. Positive Side of Alternator Alternator Battery Power stud: 9. 47V Alternator Battery Power Nut: 9. 47V Rechecked grounds on alternator: 12.42V The 75Amp fuse is receiving 11.8v on the top pin and 0.01V on the bottom. Where I’m At: With the diagnose I’ve done I’ve determined that the grounds have a prettt good connection, the 75Amp fuse is good, but there is a substantial voltage drop of 9.47V. Question: Does anyone know why a voltage drop could occur and how do I fix it? Could the battery be the issue?
  8. Hi everyone! Just wandering if the 1999 Skyline GTT r34's are affected by the huge takata airbag recall? I've had a look around and couldn't find anything =\
  9. Would love to see everyone's GTR's So i'll start it off. hrere's mine "99 BNR34 in Bayside Blue
  10. I photographed these two good looking R-34's, I wish I took more.
  11. NM35 Stagea lower control arms & ball joints+spindles For sale is a set of AWD lower control arms with new Superpro bushes, and full spindles with new ball joints installed. Selling because I mistook them as RWD parts, but they are sadly not. (Don't get me started on my ball joint replacement story!!!) Asking $400 all up, for new bushes and ball joints already pressed in for easy installation. Saves you a lot in labour already! Located 2203.
  12. Hie skyline enthusiast! The names Sean and im from Malaysia. Been lurking in the forum for a while now, just decided to create a topic to share with you guys regarding my project and updates. A teaser of my car just out from paint.
  13. WTB: RB20DET stock ecu's, preferably unopened message me with a pic of the cover ( so i can ensure it’s the correct part number) price and location 0425896150
  14. Hi Guys, Due to a complete incident and write-off, I have available an R34 USB consult cable for grabs. I used this to see error codes, and to see an overall view of the car's health (using ECUTalk). I even used it to reset error codes (e.g. engine light using Nissan Data Scan) after replacing an O2 sensor. This cable has served my R34 GT-t very well over it's lifetime. Thanks to the idiot who rear-ended me, I'd like to pass this cable on to help other Nissan's out there. I'm asking for $55, including postage from Sunshine West. Thanks, Michael
  15. I was trawling some old R32 Skyline advertising (you know, the crazy one with UFO's) and came across the "Feel the beat" marketing slogan they used (as you do) - after trying to find out some more about it I stumbled across the Nissan Japan wikipedia entry on the Japanese wikipedia site. It's VASTLY different to the English entry and goes into detail regarding naming conventions, marketeers catch phrases and other things I thought would be interesting to those that dig on that detail. http://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%97%A5%E7%94%A3%E8%87%AA%E5%8B%95%E8%BB%8A (you'll need a native tongue or google translate) Main catchphrase ------------------------ Of the world Nissan (1960) Nissan Motor Co., Ltd. is aimed at creating a harmony between the people and the car (1970 -1973 years) Nissan is aiming to tomorrow of people and cars (1974 -1977 years) Of technology aimed at tomorrow's people and cars Nissan (1978 -1981 years) Of advanced technology to be loved in the world Nissan (1982) You are already running started to 21 century of advanced technology Nissan (1983 -1985 years) Of advanced technologies aimed at the 21st century Nissan (1985) Feel the Beat of more fun and feel remain the technology Nissan (1985 -1991 years) The car the kindness of LIFE TOGETHER human (1991 -1998 years) The joy of car (January 1999 - "Renault Nissan Alliance =" capital tie-up before) NISSAN, RE N A ISSAN CE ("Renault Nissan Alliance =" capital tie-up after -2000 year in April) SHIFT_the Future (11 January -2008 December 4, 2001) The possibility of SHIFT_the way you move the car, to the future. (March-year in November 2008 -2012) The excitement was not until now. SHIFT_ [11] (4 April - 2013 2012) The Innovation that excites exciting did not until now. (April 2013 - present) You can see from the Catch Phrases that the SHIFT_ campaign was probably the only global one (and coincides with the Renault thing) Does anyone remember the local marketeers with their "Come alive, come and drive, Nissan!" or "It's a Nissan, that's my car" hah. Anyway, thought it was interesting and wanted to share.
  16. Hi i have had my sweet car for some time now really really love this car but it has been stolen and had the ignition barrel smashed and i have no time to get it all back together. So now im going to sell it So please if you are interested no reasonable offer will be rejected.. 2000 RS 2wheel drive with full leather interior, Electric, heated seats Duel sunroof, factory mats full set of led light through the car and is able to run just needs ignition barrel. I am also selling my r34 gt skyline both car are in good condition but a few little pits here and there that could use a little attention 1999 GT r34 4 door run realy well just a couple of dents on the bonnet.. Both cars have been well maintained and well looked after, Will sell both together for around $12,000 Location: melbourne Thanks Pn-Mad for the tip.
  17. Hi up for sale are my stock 350z rims. they are 2nd gen model rims for the 350z. Sold my car so no longer need them. All in good condition. few stone chip marks. Rear tyres needs to be replaced Front Tyres are about 40-60% Size: 18x8 5x114 Price: $550 Location: Smithfield, NSW, 2164 Contact: Send me a text on 0401017511.
  18. Item: JDM S15 480CC injector Description: Purchased for a project that never eventuated. Seller reported were in perfect working order when removed for sale. Price: $120 Location: Sydney Willing to post?: Yes Contact: 0425 342 213
  19. Hi all M35 die-cast model. Still in Nissan box which is showing signs of wear, acrylic display case also has marks & scratching. Car inside case looks perfectly fine. One of the images has a ruler next to it for scale. $50 + $7.45 post anywhere in oz if not sold in the next few days will put it on feeBay call 0401454406 or PM (all semi monitored) first come first served can get other import stuff, just ask. Thanks T
  20. My GTR 32 decided to have a blow up engine this morning, ON MY BIRTHDAY!!!! Started with knocking noise yesterday and drove it this morning and it lost power with lots of black smoke and died. Car is in very good condition otherwise. it shows 189000km....been look after....no problems apart from engine. Come and have a look at it yourself and see what you willing to give.... Lav - 0430024704 (SMS only)
  21. From the album: FOR SALE - 1996 R33 GTR

  22. Hello, I am located in Japan and I am selling a set of Nismo LMGT4s with wheel caps. Front: 18x8.5 +25 Rear: 18x9.5 +30 I received the wheels recently not realizing the impact staggered wheels would have my 4WD R32 GTR, and unfortunately, I’d have to resell for a loss. As you can see in the photos, the wheels have minor scratches and the paint on two of the wheels are slightly faded. The wheels are completely rust-free. Looking to sell for $1600USD.
  23. I’m on my way back from work when all of a sudden it feels like I lose one cylinder. Missfireing like crazy running real rough. I get back home and start trouble shooting what’s going on. Turns out one of my coil packs died but while I had all the spark plugs out I thought I’d give my new compression tester a go. Much to my dismay all 6 cylinders were around 110 psi. (full report below) I don’t believe this to be the cause of the misfire as I’m %99 my coil was munted. But still 110 psi in all 6 cylinders isn’t good. I’ve got a few ideas what could be causing the problem. But any input or ideas would be great. I’m thinking it could be worn piston rings or possibly ringland failure. Although I find it hard to believe the ringland failed on all 6 cylinders. Also The engine only has 150k on it and is basically stock only thing I’ve done to it is upped the boost from 7 to11psi nothing crazy. But what I think the problem most likely is, is my timing belt is starting to go or skipped a tooth or something and is throwing the timing off and therefore the compression. But hey I’m just some hopeless 18 year old. If any of y’all have the slightest idea what could be going on some guidance would be greatly appreciated.? Rb25det NEO in a rs4s stagea 150xxx kms C1 105 psi C2 110 psi C3 107 psi C4 110 psi C5 105 psi C6 117 psi
  24. Beyond Blue R33

    DSC-0138.JPG

    From the album: fluffy

    Show us your car port !!
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