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Found 403 results

  1. I Want to buy Nissan LEAF Drive Zero Car Because I love there shape but I don't Know more about there features, Car Specifications, I want to know things about Nissan LEAF Drive Zero.. Can there help me regarding that some??
  2. If the page links doesn't work, please manually enter the page number into URL for the corresponding page. This post was updated on: 01/06/2017: This thread is here providing information on our high flowed or built turbos as well as installation and trouble shooting. I'm happy to help or assist with every one who is currently using or looking to purchase our products or services. Brief Introduction about our selves: We are Australian based turbocharger manufacture in Melbourne, We worked with experienced and skilled local engineers to produce our goods and we've been doing that since Oct 2007. We constantly update our production turbochargers and will do our best deliver value to our customers. My name is Stao you can PM or contact 0413457185 if any assistance is required. For our High flowed RB25 Turbos, they comes in 21U or OP6 from factory. The 21U rear housings are smaller can capable of 430HP after high flowing, and larger OP6 are capable of doing around 460HP. PU high flow option is available for any one chasing for 450 to 500HP. They are built with a larger .82 internally gated turbine housing with Nissan OEM bolton pattern, braided oil feeding line and a high pressure actuator. Below is the Rb25det Hitach turbo high flow catalog with few dyno sheets. ATR43SS is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based with OEM dump pipe pattern. This series is specifically engineered for speed with smooth street driving ability. ATR43 is a OEM replacement powered up turbocharger built for RB20/25DET R32, R33 and R34 GTST and Stegea models. They are T3x based comes in .63 and .82 turbine housing with OEM dump pipe pattern. Power is rated from 450HP to 600HP depends on profile chosen. Initial release date: 24/08/2009: We also carry out turbocharger repairs, housing/CHRA modifications and high flow services for All Garrett, HKS, Mitsubishi, Toyota, KKK and Made in China turbochargers. Do feel free to PM / contact us for free assistance. Important Installation Notes for RB2xdet Highflowed and PU units: Sleeve bearing turbochargers requires higher volume of oil flow, are sold with 50cm long braided oil feeding line line that replaces the standard oil restrictor in side factory oil lines, 12mm benjo bolt, and a M12x1.25mm speed flow adaptor. The adaptor goes onto the engine block, benjo bolts goes into the bearing housing with hollow screw supplied. 3x copper washers are required during installation, Which we can supply them for $9 additional or can be purchased at local auto stores. Factory water lines: T3x bearing housing used are 3mms shorter then OEM Hitachi's bearing housings. Means water lines needs to be very slightly bent / forced backwards. Stock actuator: We normally modify the factory actuator's fitting bracket allowing it for a bit of preloading. The actuator bracket bolt wholes has to be filed 5mms towards the turbine housing if not received with the turbo or getting fitted by others. Once done it can be adjust and pre-load ensuring the waste gate is 100% shut. For PU high flowed and ATR43 units with larger Diameter turbine housings, the engine side water line needs to be slightly bent / altered around the housing area. Installing ATR43 turbocharger: ATR43 units generally runs on a round 3inches inlet and round 2 inches out let. It is highly recommended to run a metal intake pipe. How ever if you wish to bolton to stock gears you need: 1x 3inch straight hose, 1x 2.5inch metal sleeve, 1x 2inches 90 degrees hose, 1x 2inches metal sleeve. We can supply all those parts for $100 extra. Tip for a easy installation would be removing the actuator with bracket pre-installation, that would allow lot more room for your tools to reach the manifold studs, and install the actuator and bracket back on after the rest of the installation is complete. Make sure the actuator is preloaded by roughly 3mms. Since larger turbine housings are used, due to larger physical size most of them would be taller then stock pushing the exhaust back by roughly 15mms. Most cars would be running an aftermarket exhausts, depending on the angle of the pre-made dump / front pipe, check the clearance between that to the Air-con water drain pipe. If fouls, simply by pulling it back with zip ties and secure it on the chassis. ATR43Gx/SS2 DIY with photos ATR43SS1xx DIY with photos and video Easy Induction pipes: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-78 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-89 Couple of extremely important factors: 1. After turbo installation do check pressure leaks ( I can make you a simple plug with a hose nipple for $50). Turbo will not perform if there are leaks. 2. Most of our turbos are installed with a 18psi high pressure actuator. by pass all boost controlling devices on test run, Boost gain from EBC based on stock actuator will cause massive boost creep. 3. Make sure the car's got a at least 3inch metal induction pipe with pod filter. Do not run those metal stuffed stock intake pipe. 4. An good exhaust system should restrict no more then 10KWs (My HKS silent power made 3KWs restrictions on a 316rwkws application). So Dyno tune with cat and exhaust dropped, (front pipe only). Do a touch up run with exhaust on after tuning, Get a better exhaust if you see a massive power drop with exhaust. If above procedures are followed you will definitely get the desired power goal. Also people with RB25det R33s. pay attention to those 20 years old valve springs and valves. Mine were all chewed out and worped possibly from valve float. That will act as boost leak, causing lose in power and response. Recommend stronger valve springs. Order, dispatch and mechanic services: All turbochargers are specifically built to suit customer's orders. We need in average 3 to 5 working days to have the order complete. We normally send with Australian post registered post with insurance, which generally takes 3 working days for delivery. We have 2x clients workshops in Melbourne which can carry out the installation service for $200, or onsite service for $250. For tuning, I personally use and recommend Status, and Dr.drift. ECU: For R33 RB25det I've personally used Adaptronic Plugin ECU and highly recommend it. The RRP price on this mode is $1499, We offer $400 discount of total if it is purchased with any of our turbochargers or high flow / rebuild service. Discount also apply for any customers whom is currently owning one of our built or high flowed turbochargers. Please check ECU features, results and discussion in page 113~116.
  3. Hi hope I have the correct place for this I have a 2003 Nissan Stagea running a VQ 25DD model GH-NM35. I changed the spark plugs a few weeks back but could only find 5 plugs in the last chamber there was no plug that was when I noticed that the coil to that chamber was different from the other 5 coils it was a lot shorter than the others can anyone tell me why this is & is the last plug under a sleave depper in the chamber.
  4. For sale. NISMO blank key. Uncut 8 Point. Box is in fair condition but in one piece. Key is in excellent as new condition. No scratchesdents marks or blemishes. Bought from Kudos Motorsport through this forum years ago before being discontinued. Price includes registered Australia Post. International buyers welcome . Pm with any questions. $550.00 including postage. Thanks. Russ.
  5. Hey just wondering if anyone can help me out with some Info ! So I want to replace my 99 Gloria gearbox from the cvt gearbox to a normal Auto gearbox what gearbox will fit and would I need to change the ecu and other stuff ? 😕 any help appreciated thanx
  6. Nikkirosee

    Recently a new owner of my beloved skyline! Here are the details, I'm pretty stocked and can't wait to start my dream project. I know a little but not a lot hence why I've joined this to gain more knowledge! I have a 1995 R33 RB25DET series 2 (ecr33 gts25t) type m. f**k all ks on the clock Manual, fully stock standard, 2 door coupe and I found one with a sunroof! (I thought it was a cool plus, don't see many of those as they were an option). She runs awesome but needs some work and I just wanted to know some of the following: Best oil to use in the gear box Where to find decent rims and tires (I wanna know where to get chuck ons too, for naughty purposes) What plugs and leads should I use Thoughts on the Exidy clutches, and what one would you recommend? Coil overs - what's your fave?? I'm thinking Tein Also, it's the stock silver color but I'm getting it repainted, thinking gun metal grey or a similar purple to the midnight purple, or keep it stock colour opinions? Currently running 6psi and I want to to run 10psi of that helps also with the questions. Chat away - correct my stuff ups, let's talk projects! (I've attached a photo) let me know what you think, I'm pretty sure it has a series 1 front end but comments on what I can do with the body would be sick too Help a chick out, bless.
  7. Alrighty guys so this guide/ build log/ r&d will outline how i installed the entire cruise control system from an a32 nissan maxima into my 2000 wgnc34 nissan stagea rsfours type b. So firstly I’ll just state I am just a 19 year old who has absolutely no qualifications, just an interest in electronics and car audio with, in the big scheme of things, not much experience at all. Take all of this information as just a guide and your own r&d as who knows, some of the things may even be considered dangerous! I do welcome feedback and questions though! Prerequisites and Warnings; If you can’t understand how to read, interpret and follow a proper Nissan wiring diagram I’d advise you not to attempt. You must be competent with a soldering iron and or crimping connections If you don’t know how to use all the functions of a standard multimeter do not attempt at all You will have to modify the clock spring, which houses the airbag wiring. This is a large risk that can result in airbag deployment if completed incorrectly then there is the obvious risk of fire/short circuit if any electrical connections are incorrect or poorly terminated etc/not fused i will not be wasting time showing you how to take your interior apart. if you cant workout how to remove your steering wheel/speedo cluster etc you probably dont have the ability to install cruise control into your stagea. Step 1 Wiring diagrams; The wiring greatly differs between automatic and manual vehicles, with the latter being far more simple as transmission control is not needed. It is probably possible with autos but I have not investigated if the transmission control systems share commonalities. I have included both so you can see the differences. Manual transmission Automatic transmission This series of diagrams --cruise control wiring diagram.pdf-- are the in depth wiring diagrams showing all factory pinouts, wire colours etc. they are just what a proper wiring diagrams are. within these diagrams there are various notes such as this one-- what i did was print out the full diagram and white out any unnecessary automatic parts of the diagram to simplify it. i also suggest taking note in this document ---how to read wiring diagrams.pdf---on how to properly read these wiring diagrams and most importantly for pinouts, understanding if a pinout is shown from terminal side or harness side. Step 2: What you will need A32 nissan maxima parts ascd control unit vacuum motor vacuum cable actuator ascd clutch switch ascd brake switch (looks the same as clutch switch, just take both switches on the brake pedal bracket and the clutch switch) ascd steering wheel switch ascd hold relay ascd main switch (can get a usdm d21 pathfinder switch i believe if you want the writing on it to be correct and not horizontal) note: cut off everything with any plugs etc included and give yourself as much loom behind it as possible (atleast 100mm or so), take all bolts/fasteners too take the clock spring and all the wiring inside the steering wheel becuase it comes in handy if you want to incorporate a dash light that says "cruise" take the maxima cluster and connectors too stagea parts you will need a steering wheel that has the large D shape side airbag bolt covers with brackets housed inside. i think series 1 wheels are like this but im not sure what models come like this. all i know is my rs4s wheel is smaller and doesnt have provisions for any audio control (left side) or cruise control (right side). second photo shows said bracket the throttle with second wheel bit (think this came on most autos but again not sure) parts you can get from any car the longest fattest section of wiring loom you can extract from a car (you could go try and find all the colours in maxima wiring diagrams, but i just used what i had and spliced the colours i had in between the maxima terminated ends. consumables and tools 6m of 7 or so mm split loom a heap of double wall heatshrink of assorted sizes electrical tape thats decent your usual pliers,flush cutters, crimping pliers, wire strippers solder and soldering iron pin removal tool and afew of them in different styles the most dangerous tool in the shop (stanley knife.utility knife) t50 torx socket t40 torx socket 17mm socket 10mm socket but seriously does anyone have any of these? phillips head screwdriver and tiny flatheads etc parrot clip leads for your multimeter (the spring loaded clamp ones that allow you to lock onto wires/pins) Step 3: modification (guess you could say fabrication) in this step il be showing you how i (poorly) mounted the ascd vacuum pump, actuator, modified the clock spring, modified the ascd controller case and modified the brake pedal. Clock spring the stock clock spring in my s2 rs4s type b has 3 wires in stock form, (steering wheel side) brown (batt12+), blue and yellow (airbag) The connector on the steering column side of the clock spring had 7 male pins as shown in this photo, (ignore the pen markings) so that got me thinking, if there is a 7 pin input to the ribbon cable there must be a way to add 4 more wires to the steering wheel side. see 7 copper pins through clear window in clock spring. i then peeled the sticker on the face back to reveal the clip that secures the steering wheel wires of the clock spring. to remove this cover the two plastic pins that appear quite butchered in the picture below (top and bottom) need to be cut down with a utility knife as they are melted down larger than the id of the covers holes to ensure if the two centre clips fail there is no chance the cover can come off. they need to be cut down so the "od" of the centre squashed pins are smaller than the "id" of the cover holes as shown in the picture. once the plastic "pins"were modified and free, the centre clip needs to be squashed together releasing the cover. the next picture shows the connection of steering wheel wires to the clock spring copper with cover removed (stock rs4s type b). you would probably find a tiptronic series 2 clock spring has 2 wires you could use for cruise control which means you may not have to perform these modifications. thats just a guess though, and i choose modifying my own over sourcing one to find out if thats the case. next, i cut the connector off the maxima clock spring show in picture below to add to the stagea clock spring. i removed these pins from the maxima connector with a custom pin removal tool that is inserted into the front and the plastic tabs were lifted up, releasing the pins out the back. the wires were then pushed through the stagea wire black sheath shown in picture below and roughly bent to where they would be soldered. (top 3 blue yellow green wires) i then realised there would be a spare pin available so i pushed a blue/orange wire through the airbag black sheath for any future use i think of. the wires insulation were then stripped about 4mm or so, and all were soldered onto the copper pads. (see blue/orange wire second from right). only 2 wires are needed for cruise control out of the 4 that i added total, but i happened to have the opportunity to buy a rare factory option steering wheel audio controller and knew this would require one additional wire, and planned to use that final blue/orange wire in some sort of a scramble high boost mode button configuration on the wheel, hence using all 4 wires. Important soldering tip: pre tin your wires and pre tin the pads. DO NOT put excessive heat into the copper pads at any time. this will melt the delicate ribbon connector attached to the other side ruining the clock spring for good. i did one at a time quickly (tinning helps this) allowing the copper to completely cool between wires. the base of the wires were then secured to the plastic with a small amount of 2 part epoxy. i then pushed the three pins (blue green yellow) into the stagea black connector with the brown wire (horn batt12v+) and there the blue orange wire is loose coming from the airbag connector wire sheath. i then checked continuity between steering wheel pins and rear of clock spring pins and ensured there were no shorts between wires, especially the airbag pins! once i new the modifications were successful, the wire cover was put back on. some material needed to be shaved off the inside to allow more room for the 4 extra wires. once it clipped into place with the centre clip, i used the soldering iron to slightly melt the plastic "pins" ensuring it would never come off, slightly similar to how it was secured from factory. thats it clock spring done! ascd vacuum pump and actuator All i did was mount the pump to the same bracket i had my catch can on in the back passenger side of the engine bay, and made a shitty bracket out of some steel and aluminium that i had lying around to mount the vacuum cable actuator to. this actuator is on the drivers side rear of the bay. im sure far more elegant nice mounts can be made up it works for me haha. ascd controller case (mounting) i mounted the ascd controller behind the drivers side kick panel on the relay bracket. first thing i did was remove one half of the ascd controllers case by bending out the pressed metal around it. once removed the outer metal case, i drilled out the 4 spot welds without going all the way through, removing the factory bracket. i then wire wheeled both the case and relay mount bracket and soldered the 2 together. the case was then put back together and edges bent back to secure it. the photo below shows the final product once completed. brake pedal in my rs4s there was only one weld in nut/captive nut whatever you call it on the brake pedal bracket for the stock brake switch. there is a second hold there but no weld in nut. there is also only one contact for the brake switch and no second one at all. for from my limited research i believe all autos come with both weld in nuts and both contacts ready to go (no modification necessary) (photo below shows view from behind with welded nut, contact and second hole with no nut) to modify; step 1 crack a bleed nipple on a calliper with a clear vinyl tube over it going up to a reservoir/drink bottle or something to collect brake fluid. this is necessary because you need to be able to push the pedal to the floor. step 2: push down pedal with your elbow or whatever and attempt to pry out that little rubber contact you can see in photo above. step 3: get yourself a bolt and nut ( i used a 16mm long m8 high tensile bolt and nut) and steel plate step 4: put bolt through steel plate (if the plate is less than 2mm thick you wont need to grind down bolt head) and push pedal down and put bolt through the hole where the rubber contact previously was and put nut on the back. align plate with the hole where the second brake switch will go and tighten nut and bolt with pedal pressed down.(first pic is side view showing bolt-2X1mm plate-pedal-nut) step 5: this step will make you want to give up. if you finish this you can finish the whole install. you will need a mate with a broom stick or some sort of long pokey device to push the pedal down while your upside down in the footwell. get the stock brake switch and a second nut in hand. get your friend to push the pedal down to the floor and get up in there and put the brake switch through the hole and try and thread the nut back onto the switch from behind. you will now have 2 nuts on the switch clamping it to the bracket. do not tighten down yet. step 6: adjust brake switch back and fourth, with your friend pushing pedal in when necessary, with both nuts so you achieve around 0-0.8mm gap between the switch housing and the contact. to see this you will need to get a phone camera up in there or something. step 5 and 6 definitely are the most difficult, curse inducing, hatred building, case of beer break worthy aspects of the whole cruise control install. step 7: put the brake interrupt switch in and adjust so there is 0-0.8mm of gap between the switch housing and the contact (now the bolt head) see photo below brake switch modifications complete! see photo below for photo Step 4: The wiring So you should have gathered a heap of body loom or wires of different colours from a wrecker/parts car already. ideally you want to use the same colour as the diagram but as long as you record what colours you use etc you should be fine. il tackle this section in the same way i did in mine, one page of the wiring diagram at a time. i will often refer to "running pin so and so to a given location" and in virtually all circumstances out of the car this wire run was a 1.5m or so extended length i had soldered in the colour i chose to the nissan maxima plug if that makes sense. where possible to simplify wire routing i grouped as many as i could in the one run of split loom and when i new i would have afew wires going to the same location i used a drill to for twisted pairs or a larger twisted loom. i ran 3 main "runs" of split loom, one to the main switch, one to the clock spring and any brake switches and a third into the engine bay for the ascd vacuum pump. i suggest soldering extended lengths of wire for all "runs" to the plugs/pins you will add such as brake switches, clock spring connector etc, then running these wires through split loom so they all end up at the ascd controller area and final soldering is consolidated to one location after all other connections are finished. Page 1 of wiring diagram (EL-145 main switch) and page 5 of wiring diagram (el-149)/ "run 1" of split loom so this page for the manual transmission diagram only has just the main switch wiring and ascd hold relay. first wire: pin 1 of the ascd main switch. this is ign power and it is the same source as the ign power for the ascd hold relay. what i did is i found luckily in my scrap wiring loom, a pin that is the same as the pins on the interior fuse panel connector. i chose to do this as factory as possible so i pulled out the fuse panel, bridged the ign relay and traced out 10A fuse that isnt used with the continuity function and found the ign output pin for this fuse. the first photo shows that bottom row, 3 from left (white out indicator) pin will give you 12v+ ign through the red fuse in photo 2 with the white out on it (bottom row 2 from far left) to add the female pin to the harness side connector i sourced the same pin out of the scrap loom i had which looks like the photo below. according to the wiring diagram this wire runs to the main switch (which goes rhs of steering wheel next to fog light switch in speedo cluster surround) and also the ascd main switch (mounted on the ascd controller relay bracket) so i ran the wire off the pin back down the loom towards the mass of wires inside the upper part of kick panel (as a sub loom) then, as i earlier spliced a second wire into the long length (made a y split), i ran one side down to where the ascd relay mounts and one forward out the dash where the ascd switch goes. just incase your connector falls apart like mine did (dont fully take out the inner pin securing backing plastic on connector, i learnt the hard way) here is the wire colours and placement on the connector. the pink/blue wire is the pin i added that connects to third from left as referred to before and the fuse. now pin 4 and 6 of the main switch are both just grounds (pin 6 shows it goes to el-ill or the speedo cluster but upon further investigation its just a ground). i soldered pin 4 wire to pin 6 wire 100mm or so down from the connector and then ran the ground wire right down to where the ascd relay is (same run as the 12v ign+ pin 1 wire). pin 2 and 3 wires were ran down to where the ascd relay is and pin 5 wire was ran 150mm or so down the run of wires then came out of the loom as it were to go to the speedo cluster. now page 5 (el-149) shows pin 7 (speed sensor) and pin 13 (cruise lamp indicator) both go to the combination metre (speedo cluster) so i ran these lengths of wire up the same split loom as the ascd main switch wires, and had them come out in the same spot as the pin 5 of the switch to form a sub loom that heads towards the cluster. (photo below shows 3 speedo sub loom wires before i moved them 150mm down the loom for neater routing. a thicker gauge ground wire with ring terminal crimped and soldered to the end is then thread up "run 1" from the ascd relay area up to where the "Y" is that goes off in the sub loom to the fuse panel connector. this ring terminal is bolted to the common ground thats really obvious just above the large opening in the kick panel metal. pin 2 of the ascd hold relay is crimped and soldered with the ground (pin 4 of the ascd main switch), and pin 3 of the ascd controller to the other end of the thicker ground (down at the ascd relay to form one large common ground for everything. so this "run 1" loom, from ascd main switch to ascd hold relay/ascd controller" has all 6 wires from the switch, a ground and the ign 12v+ fuse panel wire thats splits off in the middle , then 3 split off to the speedo (pin 7 of controller speed sensor, pin 13 of controller cruise lamp, and pin 5 of the main switch the illumination). Page 1 (EL-145),2 (EL-146),3 (EL-147) or "Run 2" of split loom this will be split into 2 sections, brake switch interrupts and clock spring connector. all wires in this section run down the same loom Brake switches so following on from the first section or "run 1" of loom, pin 2 of the ascd main switch on diagram EL-145 when you simplify it, ties into pin 3 of the ascd hold relay, pin 4 of the ascd controller and also then goes off to pin 1 of the ascd clutch switch. what i did here is i connected all 4 wires together in one location down where the ascd hold relay/ascd controller is. the photo below shows run 1 coming in and hidden under heatshrink and tape this 4 way junction takes place and the green/black wire thats visible is now going off in run 2 towards the clutch switch. also in "run 2" a length of wire is ran from the ascd controller area to the brake switch area to connect to pin 5 of the controller and pin 2 of the brake switch. another run of wire is ran from the ascd controller area to the brake switch area through "run 2" split loom to connect to pin 11 of the ascd controller and splice into the factory brake pedal pin 1 (this is the stop lamp switch, sends +12v to the ascd controller when pressed like your brake light) thats it for the brake switch part. will continue the next sections in more comments as this is way too long for poor old sau and its lagging heavily (probably my crappy late 2011 macbook pro)
  8. Hi All, After 8+ years of ownership I am selling my beloved 1994 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I purchased this car from Top Secret imports back in 2010, in standard condition. I slowly poured my heart and $$ into building the car to what it is today. The car is in fantastic condition with minimal imperfections. Mod list as it stands: ENGINE -------------------------------------------------- Garret -5 turbos Garret upgraded actuators Tomei dump pipes Trust MX 3.5 inch front pipes NGK spark plugs Nismo fuel pump Tomei poncam type-b camshafts 260 Degree/9.15mm Lift - In & Ex Tomei adjustable cam gears SARD 800cc injectors Nismo racing thermostat New genuine water pump Oil cooler with braided lines (Near new never fitted) Gates heavy duty timing belt Nismo oil to air separator (Catch can) Splitfire Direct Ignition Coil Packs New genuine spark plug wiring loom Wrinkle RB26 rocker covers with Tomei spark plug cover New OEM Nissan cam angle sensor Car is tuned by Yavuz at Unigroup making 401.7kW atw DRIVETRAIN -------------------------------------------------- Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate clutch Nismo lightened flywheel Tomei Hicas lock kit (Brand new in box) Atessa 4wd fluid flush 5,000kms ago Royal purple gearbox & diff oils SUSPENSION -------------------------------------------------- Tein Flex coilovers Nismo front upper control arms – new genuine bushes Nismo front tension rods – new genuine bushes Nismo rear upper link – new genuine bushes Nismo rear A - arm set – new genuine bushes (In box not fitted) Cusco front swaybar WHEELS -------------------------------------------------- Rays CE28N 18x9.5 +15 Advan AD08 tyres 265/35/18 EXHAUST -------------------------------------------------- Straight through 3.5 inch stainless steel exhaust by hak from performance exhaust centre High flow cat EXTERIOR -------------------------------------------------- Nismo sideskirts (Bodyform) Nismo boot lip spoiler (Bodyform) Moon Face Racing rear wiper delete plug Rolled guards - Guard liners removed ELECTRICS -------------------------------------------------- Apexi Power FC with hand commander Apex Power FC boost control kit Alpine iPod head unit BRAKES -------------------------------------------------- R33 Gtr Brembo calipers (front) Endless slotted rotors (front) Endless CC-RG pads (front) HEL Braided brake lines Motul RBF660 Brake fluid INTERIOR -------------------------------------------------- Perfect condition Dash – no bubbles Original steering wheel in perfect condition - no wear marks New OEM rear window c pillar trims No rips or tears in the seats Genuine floor mats in excellent condition PRICE $45,000 FIRM - Actual number plates not on the car - Located in Sydney with 12 months rego. - Additional parts can be negotiated with the sale of the vehicle Photo’s:
  9. So I currently have an R32 GTR making 310rwkw's @ 18-20psi (98ron) with a Nistune ECU. For my next stage of modifications I'm looking to get into the high 300rwkws bracket but was hoping to keep my Nistune. In speaking to my tuner he's sceptical that it will be up to the task, I understand that a Haltech or Link etc. will do the job better/easier but I would've thought the Nistune would still be up to the task?!? Current mods and mods to undertake: Garrett -7 turbos (rebuilding to -9 spec) Nistune ECU (hoping to keep) Nismo AFMS (hoping to keep) stock airbox (hoping to keep) 660cc injectors (upgrading to 1250cc) Blitz DSBC (hoping to keep) 98ron (upgrading to E85) stock head gasket (upgrading to metal) stock head studs (upgrading to ARP 2000) stock cooler (upgrading to Plazmaman) stock cams (upgrading to Kelford) stock valve springs (upgrading to BC) Walbro 460 (hoping to keep) Extreme HD clutch (upgrading to Nismo twin plate) …and yes before anyone chimes in I do realise this could be achieved quite easily with a nice single turbo ;)
  10. Skylineman34

    Would love to see everyone's GTR's So i'll start it off. hrere's mine "99 BNR34 in Bayside Blue
  11. For sale: Nissan Skyline R34 GTT Sedan 318 rwkw, silver, in Victoria Key points: Last of the original R chassis with the venerable RB25DET, in the final & best Neo guise Lots of work done: tyres, suspension, steering, drivetrain, mechanical diff, cooling, turbo, servicing, preventative maintenance etc. etc. Beautiful RB bark at 20 psi and the sweet smell of ethanol A registered car with 4 doors, child seat mounting points, big boot, sleeper look for no unnecessary attention No accident history, always garaged under my ownership, regularly serviced Recent updates: New price New photos New steering rack No RWC selling as is Inspections welcome Price $14,800 Please PM here or call/email via the full ad: http://bit.ly/4doorad – Photos: http://bit.ly/4doorpics Note: This is a replacement thread for the previous one: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471783-fs-well-balanced-r34-gtt-sedan-for-street-and-track-vic/?do=findComment&comment=7885711
  12. Hi everyone! Just wandering if the 1999 Skyline GTT r34's are affected by the huge takata airbag recall? I've had a look around and couldn't find anything =\
  13. It's with regret I'm selling my beloved Nissan Stagea 350RX Wagon. It has a powerful 208kw, yet economical 3.5l VQ35DE (non turbo) motor coupled up to a super smooth 5 speed tip-tronic Transmission which easily and consistently achieves low 10l/100km which equals 700km's around town!! I am the first Australian owner, having imported this magnificent car myself 6 years ago from Japan. It is fully road legal and ADR Compliant. This gorgeous car finished in Sparkling Silver has served me well being a daily driver and has many features which include: Power Steering, Power Windows, ABS, Traction Control, Central Locking, Factory 17" Mag wheels Driver's 8 way Power Seat. Front Passenger 2 way Power Seat. All seats covered in cool Fabric. Steering wheel adjustable for height and reach to get you in the perfect driving position. Dual Zone Climate Control Air Conditioning with Pollen filter fitted. Tinted windows and Factory Privacy Glass. Smart Keys, no need to fumble for your key, just push the button to open the door, jump in and turn the ignition and off you go. Reverse Camera displayed within factory pop up screen. Trip computer with Service reminders and Fuel consumption history. Genuine Steering wheel mounted radio controls and Cruise Control avoids going over the speed limit. With Remote split fold 60/40 rear seats it gives the rear cargo area more useable space than a VE/VF wagon. Has tie downs anchors, carry hooks and Cargo Blind to keep away prying eyes. Two way Self closing tailgate. Open just the glass to throw in something quick or open the complete tailgate for the shopping. Seats 5 and has 3 child anchor points for those with a young family. Electric heated and power foldable mirrors. Auto Headlights with Daytime Running Lamps. Road Speed Variable Intermittent Wipers. Genuine Nissan Floor Mats Front & Rear K&N Air Filter fitted & recently cleaned. Save money by not having to replace costly air filters, Aux Media/TV/MP3 player with USB input, plays all popular formats coupled to the factory Clarion radio which plays clearly and loudly through the factory 6 speaker system for when you are alone. Genuine Nissan Alarm & Immobilizer, with ultra sonic sensors, auto re-arm and lock It has been recently and regularly serviced with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil and front brake pads also replaced less than 500kms ago. All tyres replaced with quality Toyo Nanoenergy 3 tyres approx 12,000kms ago giving the car a smooth quiet ride. This car is a pleasure to drive as it has been well maintained and serviced with Mobil 1 full synthetic engine oil & ryco filters, hence good condition of motor, Genuine Nissan Transmission Oil, Synthetic Diff Oil and Double Platinum Spark Plugs, Full Service History available upon sale. Non Smokers Car. Comes with spares hoses, belts, coolant, Import Approval and any other relevant documents. Come see the car, you wont be disappointed. Price is $11,000 negotiable STRICTLY NO TYRE KICKERS OR SWAPS ***AND DEFINITELY NO OFF SHORE BUYERS*** WHO CAN'T COME AND SEE THE CAR!
  14. Hi guys, I’m going to start doing a new post-grad course for work so will have less time to drive my cars so will have to give them a good service/clean then store away in the garage for a while. I have never owned a car cover but thought I’d take this opportunity to get nice custom GTR ones like the below photos but it seems only R35 GTR ones are available? Does anyone know where to order them from, prices and do they last? Cheers!
  15. Hey all, this is my first post here and I am a beginner deaf and wheelchair bound photographer who loves to take pictures of cars whenever I can. My main favourite is the 1993 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R and want to own one one day. I have some photos that I have taken today (5th October 2018) while I was at Powercruise in Barbagallo. I'll upload some more photos once I find the best ones so far, for now, there is just that one for now. Please let me know what you think 😁
  16. So I am making this post as I've searched the forums, and the posts I could find aren't fitting my personal situation. I've already got all the supporting mods for my turbo upgrade, Front facing Plenum, 6boost turbo/ exhaust manifold with T3 fitting, 1000cc injectors, walbro 460 fuel pump, all the gaskets you could dream for, electric boost controller (Already in), Blitz Nur Spec R exhaust, and a front mount intercooler. I've tried making another post elsewhere on these forums reguarding a turbo upgrade, and said post got closed as apparently it's totally fine for people to insult a build, but it's not ok for people to make a new post on a forums, asking for help to suit their situation. My build is unique to 99% of builds on here, I am getting all my modifications engineered and permitted accordingly. I'll be installing all the mods myself, making sure they all apply to the legal standards (Plumbing back to exhaust, emissions) and then I'll be paying an engineer to get it certified. For the turbo upgrade, I am wanting a minimum of 350HP, but I'm looking at around 400- 450HP. The turbo that I require will have to be with a T3 housing (I know garrett give the option for a lot of their turbos to suit multiple fittings). I have no experience with turbos at all, as my skyline is the first performance car I've owned. If someone could give some serious suggestions, someone who knows what they're talking about when it comes to cars, as to what Turbo is good, and what to avoid, that would be amazing. Also, forgot to mention, but I want this turbo for street performance, and a bit of track time, possibly drifting every now and then on track, so I'm not 100%, but I think that would mean I need a responsive turbo with high boost at low RPM? Cheers!
  17. Hey everyone, I have a mystery problem that I NEED help figuring out. So 2 weeks ago I bought my first import a 1992 r32 skyline gtst type m, with an rb25det engine swap, overall a wonderful car that has been nothing but a pain in the butt. I noticed the problem the first night I drove it (learning how to drive manual on it) I stalled out at a stop sign and she wouldn't start back up. Ended up draining the battery and killing the alternator. Once we got those replaced I started seeing the problem as if I drove the car around for <2 miles and it either stalled or got turned off she wouldn't start back up. Spark plugs were fine so I assumed there was bad gas (smelled like bad gas) and I replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the fuel lines along with dropping and cleaning the gas tank. Also did an oil change with a new filter for the hell of it. Nothing changed. She starts up in the morning after sitting all night and if I drive her for a while she won't start back up when she turns off or stalls. Brought it to a shop that specializes in older Nissan and they said it was probably the PTU over heating and that I should buy a new one and plug it in myself so I save money. I just wanted to get your guys opinion on this. As I said the car will start up and drive fine but it's when it stalls after being driven that it won't start up again. Thanks guys!
  18. Thought I would share details as well as insurance (NRMA) My wifes 2010 premium crossover got a somewhat minor hit in the drivers side. Minor because no side airbags were deployed. She and daughter had some whiplash though. See pic for damage on both side doors. However if you look inside doors some dents were made in the sills - and this triggered the write off. Sills are structural and need to be ordered new. Nissan OZ can get lots of non structural components like doors and windows etc but not the sills. Ok so we switched to 3rd part suppliers like partsour and nengen https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/filter?c=Nissan&ssd=%24WFQ5BQ%24&model=Japan&f_model=SKYLINE+CROSSOVER&f_frame=&f_year=2010&f_door=&f_transmission=&f_bed=&f_chassis=&f_cabin=&f_engine=&f_power=&f_roof=&f_wheel-base=&f_grade=&f_wheel-drive=&f_area=&f_load=&f_battery=&f_seat-type=&f_suspension=&f_bed-size=&f_body= If they did have parts, the cost of shipping large items + Import + GST was expensive. Also the delays quoted were 4 months. NRMA need to factor this in along with the hire car we got (accident not our fault) So why the issue with structural spares? Nissan discontinued this car in japan in 2016. Seem structural spare parts are becoming pretty rare already (if they ever did make many structural spare parts). Of interest is the bigger brother FX/QX70 was also discontinued, so even though its sold locally, good luck getting structural spares for it also. Sedans/Coupes sold in greater volumes so structural spares may be easier? (hope, i have one of those also) So what to buy next ? I have looked at some electric SUVs coming in 2019 - Hyuandu Kona, KIa e-Niro but they are smaller (and not here yet!). I looked at QX70 locally but its too dear. Nissan Xtrail is cheap but read lots of bad things about the CVT going early and costing a fortune to fix. In the end, Im still coming back to importing another crossover - abet with sunroof Speak up if you can suggest alternatives (she wants luxury/leather/sunroof however). The infiniti convertible is nice - but local 2015 stock on car sales want 50K - ouch
  19. Hi guys I have a 1999 Silivia Spec R (JDM) and have noticed it has a GT badge underneath the side indicator on the fender. I’ve searched my VIN number on this website http://gtr-registry.com/en-s15-silvia-200sx.php and it comes up as a Silvia Spec-R aero with interior Z:(orange) As far as I knew I thought only the late ADM models come in a spec r GT so I’m not sure if it’s normal for my JDM Silvia to have that badge. Any info would be greatly appreciated I’m still a s-chassis noob haha. Thanks
  20. Hi guys, I'm wanting to add some carbon fiber canards to the front of my R33 GTR (original series 3 bumper) but don't want to drill holes in case I want to remove them in the future. Do you know if there are any industrial strength double-sided tape or the like to keep them in place but won't ruin the paint on my bumper if I decide to remove them in the future? I don't like the 4-piece AutoSelect/ACE style ones which extend onto the front indicators and are looking to get the simple two-piece ones like shown below but because they're not specifically made for the R33 GTR bumper there's some gaps in the centre so will need to be apply more tape to fill gaps. Any experiences here guys? I don't just don't want to drill holes into my bumper.
  21. Good Evening All! I am new to this forum and am very pleased to be here as it means I have finally bought my dream car, and 1998 R34 GTT. I have been coveting a skyline since I was a kid and after owning many many different cars I decided I would buy my lifer, the one I had really wanted but had fallen by the wayside. There is just one problem.. It. Is. Ugly. As. Sin. Seriously the last owner must of not cleaned it the entire miserable time he owned it, not to mention deciding that carparks were the perfect place to practice his destruction derby skills, then covering it in "hilarious" bandaid stickers as if to say "whoops". There is a good chance this car is the ugliest one in NSW however under the dust and grime and cosmetic damage I could see a glimmer of potential. I was concerned for it when I saw it, and by the time I drove it home I was in love with it. Brace yourselves you may want a drink before looking at these, much to my wife's credit she trusted me to buy this (for a bargain of a price), keep in mind these pictures make the car actually look BETTER than it did in person.
  22. Eljin

    Hi everyone, I just bought a Nissan Skyline R34 GT that has a Rb25de NA motor which they turbo it with an ebay turbo. So the previous guy blew the block due to high compression and I bought it from him. I recently took the motor out and swapped a Rb25det Neo. I had to rewire all the harness to fit because of the previous NA motor which it doesnt have the same connectors as the neo. Now the I dont have a oil temp wire to connect. I was wondering if anyone had an extra oil temp wire and oil pressure sensor. I want to know if anyone has done a swap from a N/A into a Neo turbo. Please tell me about your experience and how you made it work. Thanks!
  23. I bought this car approximately 1.5 years ago, and I planned to keep it for quite a while thanks to the low kms at the time of purchase (approximately 55,000). However, personal circumstances have changed and now I need to sell it. In no particular order, here are the major features: Front and rear power sunroof, with lockout switch for rear sunroof. Factory radar cruiser control. After market alarm and immobiliser (installed during compliance). 4WD, 4 Wheel Steering (HICAS) and LSD. 5-Speed Automatic with manual control. I obtained a suitable paddle-shifter from a V35 Nissan Skyline 350GT-8, but I never got around to installing it (happy to throw this in at no extra charge). Factory Japanese DVD Navigation System with factory screen (menus are untranslated). RCA inputs for audio/video playback. Factory head unit, with cassette tape/CD/Mini-Disc playback support (Mini-Disc Changer is in the centre storage bin). Factory reverse camera. Driver and Passenger electronic/heated seats, with manually adjustable lumbar support on driver seat. Full factory leather interior, with matching leather trim. Front and rear factory carpets, including factory boot carpet. Factory tyre-jack set/spare wheel. Factory cargo net. Factory cargo cover. Factory rear seat-belt for middle passenger, and rear child-proof seat-belt clasp. Driver/passenger front and side airbags, curtain airbags for 2nd row Front and rear fog lights. Height adjustable faxtory Xenon headlights. Completely mechanically stock, with no alterations or non-factory modifications other than a new battery (less than 1 year ago). Brake cut-off mod completed recently, with switch installed in back of glove-box. All original manuals and paperwork included, and even some detailed service receipts while it was still in Japan. Very comfortable and easy to drive, reassuringly solid in wet weather, and just cool in general. Has not been thrashed and has always been fed with V-Power petrol. Overall condition of the car is seriously very very good, especially considering its age. Original Japanese de-registration papers, and copies from an online registration check, are also included. Kilometres have been proven. Registration expiring April 2018. Biggest problem would be the condition of the drivers seat. There are no tears or rips of any kind, but the colour (and a bit of the leather feel) has faded from the left hand side of the seat. I also have the paddle-shifters from a V35 GT-8, and some braces that have not been installed yet. Willing to throw them into the deal as well. Asking price: $13,500 (ONO) KM's: 64,000 VIN: U90000NM35302391 Model Code: VLGPRXNM35UDA-AA-C http://gtr-registry.com/en-nm35-vin-table.php Contact Name: George Contact Number: 0412 443 996 Email: flamingmonkey@gmail.com Price is negotiable, and I need this gone, so please make me a reasonable offer! Car is also on Carsales and Gumtree.
  24. Hi all, Clearing out some parts from my R34 GT-R. All parts are ONO/negotiable, and freight can be arranged for some parts at buyers cost, others would best to be picked up due to the size. Located in the ACT. Please either PM me or contact me on 0424 056 507 for any inquires, as I have more photos of parts if required. Cheers. Rear Diffuser - $1500 Has slight damage, but can be bolted to the car just fine with nothing hanging down or loose, and damage cannot be seen from underneath. Please PM for more details/photos. Complete Aircon Assembly - $1000 A-LSD VSpec rear diff - $750 This is an active LSD from a V-Spec Bonnet - $1000 Standard V-Spec aluminum bonnet Interior carpet - $300 Interior plastic trim - $300 Standard Cat - $100 Motul 300V 2L Chrono - $40 Motul 300V 2L Comp - $40 Standard Oil pump - $50 Rear tail lights - $150 Roof lining - $200 Spare tyre - $50 Washer Bottle - $50
  25. Hi, i was wondering if there is a website or something similar that show you the parts that can be used across various models. E.g. Can i use s14 cat in a r33 gtst(ECR33) RB25DET?