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M35 overheating In cold weather, it looses no coolant, and is fine (all winter). But after a few 35 degree plus days it looses coolant and overheats. If i top it up and drive in cool weather, it again looses no coolant and is fine. Last summer it got a new thermostat, radiator and radiator cap, and was holding pressure. Is your M35 ok in 35+ weather? How do i troubleshoot this, or are M35s a bit iffy under extreme temps?

hey guys just having a random over heating issue and wondering if any of you guys have encountered before?? so my rb25det seems to randomly over heat after i change the coolant. ill take it up the road it will heat right up to 115 degress plus and ill just pull over,turn the car off and let it sit for a few minutes, turn it back on and its back to good again around 85 degress. also sometimes does it if its sit or a few days. what could it be? water pump? blockage?

Hi all, had the car couple months. Making 300kw. Overheating on freeway but cooled down in traffic then would rise up slowly. Drained coolant and replaced thermostat. Heater wasn't working when I got the car. Went to bleed via x2 head bleed screws, rear one bleed out but front one had nothing come out as car continued to overheat. Any ideas on the matter?

Thought I would share my story as it’s the second time I have had this fault and a quick google shows it to often be misdiagnosed or the suggested repair is massively overpriced. This one seems to be a very misunderstood problem as this happened while on the way back from a dealership service and they had completely missed the problem with the car. I was driving while in congested freeway traffic and noticed the engine temperature was climbing well into the redline. I had to nurse the car through some careful manoeuvres to force cool air into the engine bay. Luckily traffic cleared up and once up to normal freeway speeds the temp dropped down again but it was clear the temperature was related to vehicle speed and stopping at traffic lights had it shooting up again quickly. This is the second time I have had this fault so diagnosis and repair was relatively quick and painless but I know from the first time I has this issue that the normal service technicians often completely miss the root cause and will recommend expensive repairs that only fix the problem by chance rather than knowing what they are doing, the fixes are often also expensive and require parts that are in fact perfectly serviceable on the car. The fault lies in the engines electric cooling fans, the brushes in the fans have become stuck due to dirt fouling the action and they are no longer making effective contact with the commutator. With 4 brushes inside the motor there is some level of redundancy but after a while the motors become less and less effective until they are not functioning at the required speed. The fans will still turn but they will not reach full speed and will not draw the required air across the radiator, most service techs will just see a spinning blade and assume the fan is working. The simple fix for this problem is to remove the fan housing from the motor, a simple job with plenty of how-to’s on YouTube, and then disassemble the electric motor housings. While not intended to be user serviceable, the housing can be opened with a screwdriver and/or some pliers. Between the 2 motors you will most likely find several of the brushes have become stuck with the spring pressure no longer enough to overcome the dirt and fouling accumulated in the motor. All you need to do is give everything a quick clean and maybe a little lubrication if you have the correct products. The hardest part is the reassembly, I recommend using sowing needles and thread to retain the brushes when you close-up the motor housing. Crimp the housing back together and reassemble and reinstall the fans. All up the fix takes about 2 hours using only a screwdriver, pliers, a shifter, a drain dray and a rag. No new parts required, and the repair should last you another 2 to 3 years before having to repeat the process. This of course presumes the brushes are in serviceable condition, not cracked to worn but even then, the replacement brushes are cheap and simple enough to replace with a soldering iron.

R33 GTR engine overheating issue - low boost Hello, Just come back from a track and tested my car in high temp weather, around 25-28 Celcius My actual set up is 1.4 bar and around 500hp. Upgrades: - Mishimoto 50mm radiator - Mocal oil cooler My car actually lasted one full lap on full boost, around 4 km of the track. I am experiencing big overheating issues, then my boost drops down rapidly to around 0.8-1.0 bar. The water temperature hits the H mark. I still have AC radiator and thinking to remove it if necessary and also move the oil cooler to the side of the front bumper so the water radiator can have better air flow. Maybe there are any smaller AC radiators on the market so can be used instead of OEM ones? What else i can do to reduce the overheating issue? You guys in Australia experiencing hot weather, how do you race your cars in such a high temperatures? I need my car last around 10-15 minutes one session on full boost so i can use my 500hp not one lap....;/