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Found 5 results

  1. as above working r32 window relay (black box) $60 can send a pic if you really want haha 0423456426
  2. hey have the following r33 interior bits I dont need. Both VGC, no cracks, all tabs intact. R33 5 speed gear stick surround $50 R33 drivers side power window switches, plastic trim and window reg $50 will post at buyers expense. Located at Caboolture 4510 0418 537 181 cheers
  3. Anybody please help..passenger window wont go down.will only go up.motor is working ok,there is no mechanical thing stopping it,switch is ok.spent 4 hours still no good.any help appreciated...need window to go down as air con no working.cheers.
  4. Skyline R34 power window not working I recently had a problem with my driver side power window not working on my Skyline R34 GTT, but gather this is applies to R33, etc also Which i discovered a fix to that i did not come across while searching this site and the web for a solution so thought I would share. My window seamed to have trouble winding up for a while and then one day got stuck altogether, with knowledge from the forums i diagnosed it by pulling off the power lead to the power window motor and using a multi meter confirmed that the switch was still working as i was getting power to the lead connections. I though great the power window motor is gone, so decided to pull it out to help in ordering a new one, (This is a hard procedure when the window is stuck up but got it eventually with some persistence). It had some simple screws to take off the motor case and remove the rotor (The motor case was on the picture where the red circle is), and i noticed the contacts were quite dirty (see pic) so i got a cloth and used some fine grit sand paper (240 or something i think) and cleaned them up and then put it back together and to my surprise my window works like new again, no more getting stuck or any other problems. Its been installed and working fine for about a month now. one thing to note if you try this is to make sure the ball bearing stays on top of the motor (mine came out while pulling this bit out), and watch the magnets don't pull it out when you put it back in the casing. so saved myself around $150 bucks by not replacing the motor, I hope this helps someone else save some dough too
  5. I've been having trouble with intermittent and broken power windows on the R32. Using the information from https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291360-power-window-stuck-electric-window/?do=findComment&comment=4878899 I found that: most of the problems were resolved by cleaning the switches, the last issue was fixed by re-soldering the relay in the "amplifier". Also the drivers side switch can be opened and fixed too. So, the drivers switch internals; As you can see it has the same problem as the passenger switch shown in the post linked above. That post says "10) STOP! dont try to pry apart the circuit board any further.. as you will break it.. if you look at this picture you can see that due to this whole assembly being screwed down THEN soldered in the nissan factory.. its not possible to remove this, so i just sprayed the cleaner as much as possible inside and re-assembeled everything, i suppose if it got really broken in there you could cut the circuit board to remove those 2 tiny little screws you see in the pic and get in there" I eventually managed to get the assembly apart by removing the screws (the circuit board untouched) then flexing the black plastic. However there was some damage; Perhaps you will have better luck. Anyway that break is not bad enough to cause issues and since the swtich was not usable anyway i figured i had nothing to loose. So after clean up; And, similar to what i found on the passenger side, the switch contacts were badly pitted; So i reversed the orientation of these pieces before reinstalling them, hoping that may help them last a little longer. Now putting the pieces in place; And then carefully lowering the cap back onto the switch, making sure the switch lever points sit in the valleys before pushing it together. The tabs click into place and i left the screws out as the switch is very solidly mounted without them, and they would be very difficult to get back in. After all that, I still had intermittent operation of down on the drivers side window. Up always worked, and up and down always worked on the passenger side. I found that the issue was due to dry joints on the surface mounted relay in what Nissan calls the "power window amplifier". This is a black box mounted under the door trim, occupying the space under the elbow rest/shelf/whatever that's called. Its attached by a metal bracket with two screws into the door shell. To get inside the box, I put some sandpaper on a flat surface then wore away one long edge and the short edge opposite the plug end. The plug end is not bonded to the cap in that end, so now we have three sides of the box that are "free" and can then flex the side open. Sorry - should have taken photos. Once open there is a single circuit board with two surface mounted relays (that is, the relays are soldered directly onto the board). I noticed that two of the joints appeared to have a little carbon around them. From the service manual, the amplifier pin out is; To operate the relays, apply +12v to pin 4, then connect ground to 1 and 2 to drive the relays. The intermittent operation occurred on the relay with the carboned up joints, and those joints didn't look like they'd been soldered well (they should look concave). I applied heat to the solder joints to have the solder re-flow onto the relay pin and board run. Re-checked them by applying voltage and they were now working well. If you want to multimeter test the drivers side switch, facing the switch and labelling pins as Drivers window; 1 & 2 - open circuit, connected on UP and AUTO UP 1 & 3 - open circuit, connected on DOWN and AUTO DOWN 1 & 4 - open circuit, connected on AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN Passenger window; 1 & 7 - connected, open circuit on UP and DOWN 7 & 9 - connected, open circuit on UP 1 & 9 - connected, open circuit on DOWN
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