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2003 Nissan Stagea RS Four VQ25DET blitz BOV blitz FMIC BC racing suspension (adjustable) GCG High flow turbo DBA Cross-Drill Slotted 4000 series brake discs all around 3inch exchaust TV system work with built-in Monitor Regular service every 5000kms more than 10k receipt available for history record please contact me on o433066925 if interested thx inspection available at ashfield nsw asking for $9500

M35 Stagea LHS Front Passenger Window Regulator for sale - Used, in good condition. Make an offer. Does not include motor. Can throw in a broken drivers side power window motor if you have any use for it. Located in East Hills, NSW. Pick up or can arrange delivery.

For sale - 1989 R32 skyline Built rb26/30 by lewis engines in SA, 6boost manifold, gt3582r turbo, 50mm turbo smart gate, vi-pec ecu and 25 gearbox Tuned by Godzilla Motorsport in Brissy running about 380hp Very safe tune Quick car and very torquey car Currently rego'd till jan next year but will be selling without roady Much more done, car is set up for the track specifically drift any question please call or text or message on here 0432470609 $15500 Ono I'm open to offers guys Mainly after swaps maybe something BMW or euro maybe a v8 or something let me know what ya got, open to offers feel free to ask questions im happy to answer

PLEASE REQUEST MORE PICS IF GENUINELY INTERESTED I HAVE OVER 120 PICS OF THE BUILD + FINISHED PRODUCT I WILL ALSO ANSWER ANY QUESTION ASAP, WILL BE CHECKING EMAIL CONSTANTLY SO DONT HESITATE THIS CAR IS ALSO LISTED ON ALL COMMON CARSALE WEBSITES WITH MUCH MORE PICS... Carsales listing has about 65 pics Up for sale is my Pride and joy, an E85 Fueled 1996 M-Spec S2 R33 GTS-T with 145,000kms I have owned her for 4 years and have spent the last 12-18 months transforming the already 596hp beast into my ultimate reliable, easy to drive R33 ASKING $31999 ONO VIN: 6U9000ECR33113727 I Purchased her with 596hp on E85 and absolutely meticulously cared for... a solid build but it needed a few things. Faulting it were the typical hard to drive brass button clutch, grinding 5th gear, sticky throttle body, a few small tune faults and some minor cosmetic details. ( old steering wheel, no floor mats etc.) I wanted it perfect so I decided to strip it down and change a few things to my liking and as you will see below.. i got a bit carried away with my “quick” teardown and rebuild. Reason for regretful sale is I’m wanting to buy a house.. so its time for my labour of love to be passed on. The car has never been smoked in, it has never been parked outside.. Literally not been parked in the sun more than a hour since I’ve owned it. Never parked in shopping center car parks, never parked in the city, never driven to work etc. has been 100% a weekend car and has been only parked in my dry and safe garage hence the great condition paint, headlight lenses, interior and lack of even a tiny speck of rust or corrosion. The car has been cleaned and washed almost every time its driven (once or twice per fortnight). Has always been maintained with high quality products like Mothers and Meguiar’s The car has just been tuned at PIT’s by Matty Spry 30/5/2018, regarded as one of the best in the industry to work on a skyline. It made a reliable 599.99HP at the wheels @25PSI It would be fair to assume that every fast car has been built to be driven hard.. but not only has this car had very little Kms since rebuild but it has been very well cared for, I understand the stress that every part in the car Is put under at high boost and have always driven accordingly... it has never been skidded, thrashed or even redlined... the highest RPM the car will ever see under my ownership is by my tuner in a controlled environment, with that in mind Rev limiter is set to 7350 for safety but can obviously be raised if you choose My attitude with this car has always been “Do it right- Do it once” hence the 40k+ of parts used to get up to my standards (on a car that already had a lot spent on it by previous owner – (Probably in the order of 30-40k incl car) Everything I have touched is either already perfect or has been replaced with brand new parts. No stone left unturned, no corners cut. I have used nothing but the best parts and have spent hundreds of hours researching the best part or best method for the job, only Genuine Nissan or top brand Aftermarket parts have been used – eg. Can get an oil cooler for $100 but I got a $650 Japanese top quality unit, which has fluid pass through twice for extra cooling. Many many things on the car where I have spent MUCH more than necessary just for the peace of mind knowing it is built as strong, as reliable, as functional and as fast as it can be. You can rest assured that you are buying a car that isn’t just built to go fast.. its built to do it comfortably for a long time to come, without issue. You can also rest assured knowing that the person who built this car is a perfectionist who spent a lot of time and thought getting everything right, I don’t just bolt things on I look at every aspect of this particular job and how it interacts with every other part of the car to ensure the whole product at the end. I was once told there is 3 things of importance to car owners and you can only have 2… - Cheap, Fast and Reliable – and I have certainly opted for the latter 2 Engine has always been serviced every 2000Kms MAX, oil and filter - gearbox and diff were done every 5000kms (like everything else way over done for peace of mind), has just had brand new clutch, brake, diff, engine, gearbox and power steer fluids 30/5/18 Where items are marked NEW they have been a part of the recent rebuild and are all BRAND NEW parts – this process was completed on 4/6/2018 so all these parts have JUST been installed will have very minimal use and KM’s – all other parts were installed previously by either myself or previous owner, (the car has done about 7,000kms total since the previous owner built motor prior to me buying it… including the KMs I have done) so even parts that aren’t brand new have low Kms on them Due to the extent of modifications.. this car cannot be sold with a RWC, it will be de-registered on the day of sale, if purchaser is on gold coast or south brisbane im willing to deliver the car to you and remove plates once in your garage, I can provide details of the RWC certifier that I have always used for this car for an easy re-register $42540 in Receipts + $18000 I paid for the car Well over $42,000 in receipts (a 2” thick folder full of receipts will be supplied with the car aswell as over 125 pics of progress of the build and finished product - BYO USB), and as anybody who has ever built a car like this would know big ticket receipts are only a fraction of the money that’s been spent on her – also keep in mind I am quoting the prices I paid which is generally way below normal retail price Engine: Rebuild done by Troy at Arundel cylinder heads NEW $9000 Rebuild on a motor that already had $10k+ in it Block Decked Plateau Hone and bored Full Engine Balance and Blueprint NEW CP Forged Pistons 86.5mm 9.0:1 $1000 Kelford cams Balanced and plugged crank Nitto oil pump Forged Rods HKS cam gears NEW ACL Race Bearings $240 NEW All seals rubbers gaskets etc. NEW Japanese water pump $90 NEW Gates timing kit $250 NEW Tomei cam cap studs $325 ARP Studs NEW ATI Superdamper harmonic balancer $720 Genuine Greddy Intake Manifold $1000+ 1000cc ID injectors Splitfire coil packs Vipec ECU – $1800 - Just tuned at 599.99HP by Matty Spry at PITS gold coast - tune alone cost $2650… the two runs on the dyno sheet are at wastegate spring pressure @ 10PSI and 2nd is with elec boost control @ 25PSI NEW Raceworks 4 Bar Map sensor $180 NEW Clear Timing Cover $90 Custom Stainless catch can and power steer bottle Stainless vented coil pack cover K&N pod air filter Head: Port and polish on inlet and outlet bowl areas $560 Full head service incl adjust valve spring tensions/throat after putting in larger valves $720 NEW Oversized Stainless exhaust valves $280 NEW Oversized Stainless intake valves $306 NEW Seals $130 NEW MLSR 1.3mm head gasket $30 Large oil drain fitting with 5/8” oil/E85 resistant High temp hose to sump Turbo + Exhaust: NEW Garrett GTX3582 Vband Turbo With ATP Twin Scroll T4 1.06 AR Housing $3000 NEW Custom Twin Scroll T4 CRG Turbo manifold (chose this because of the amazingly unrestrictive merge collector welding) $1300 NEW Custom 3.5" Stainless Dump + Mid Pipe $1777 NEW Basalt Volcano Wrap on dump pipe – this is the best heat wrap around (75% overlap not minimum 25%) $80 NEW Kakimoto Racing Hyper Full Mega N1 3.5" Full Stainless Cat back Exhaust $1500 Twin Tial 40mm Wastegates Tial Blow Off Valve NEW Pro flow stainless braided turbo fittings and hoses $500 NEW High quality stainless T-bar Clamps used throughout boost/intercooler piping $300 NEW all silicone hoses used for boost, BOV, wastegates, boost controller etc, all with stainless worm drive clamps not cable ties NEW Innovate Wideband O2 sensor in dump pipe NEW MAC 4 port Electronic boost control $100 Spare exhaust bung located at top of dump pipe, to enable much better tuning Foil backed fiberglas heat wrapping on Turbo water feed as runs close to exhaust Oil drain from head and turbo run in specialty 250c oil/e85 resistant smooth bore hose to sump, then sleeved with 500c fiberglass and silicone coated sleeve for superb protection from exhaust Cooling: NEW HPC Ceramic coating on turbo manifold $935 NEW HPC Ceramic coating on turbo exhaust housing $282 M-Spec aftermarket alloy radiator NEW Mushimoto Dual Pass 25 row oil cooler and genuine braided lines + sandwich plate $650 (LIFETIME WARRANTY) ARE Large Front mount intercooler NEW All Radiator\Heater hoses replaced with silicone $100 Clutch: NEW 1000HP NPC 225mm Twin Carbonic Sprung center 5 puck Full Billet clutch $2700 - drives almost like a stock clutch, absolutely miles ahead of the brass button that was on the car when I bought it. Very little noise when pedal is pressed compared to other twin plate clutches. NEW NPC billet Flywheel (slightly lighter and rotational mass reduced by having most of the weight/mass closest to center) NEW OEM Nissan slave clutch cylinder $100 (consulted with NPC this is the best slave to suit twin plate clutch) NEW full fluid flush with Motyl RBF600 fluid $35 Gearbox: NEW Brand new OEM Genuine Nissan 5 speed manual gearbox shipped from Japan $3000 NEW genuine NISMO upgraded Gearbox Mount $150 NEW Nissan throw-out bearing supplied with box Fuel: NEW Speedflow 40 micron Billet + stainless fuel filter $190 Speedflow fuel regulator NEW Pro-Flow E85 Teflon lined stainless braided Hose and fittings $800 Plumbing from pumps have been done via 2 separate hardlines and are joined into 1 large braided line at the filter in engine bay. NEW EFLEX sensor installed ready for tuning on 98 octane through to e85 $100 Custom Stainless Surge tank in boot. Dual Bosch High flow pumps Chrome Fuel rail New 90mm Throttle body and cable $200 NEW genuine Nissan TPS $130 Brakes: NEW DBA T3 4000 series slotted rotors all round $652 NEW Remsa brake pads $150 NEW Brand New professional HPC “HSV red” Brake caliper coating $300 Labour to fully rebuild all brake calipers after being coated (new pistons, seals, clips etc) $530 NEW HEL Braided brake lines all round $180 Motul RBF600 full brake system fluid flush $200 (one of the best brake fluids available) Suspension: NEW Japanese Wheel bearings all round $ 1000 prefessionally installed NEW Whiteline adjustable Front and rear sway bars (22mm rear 24mm front) $600 NEW Whiteline Adjustable Swaybar links $300 Labour to install sway bars and adjust pre load $400 Driftworks Coil overs Car height is perfect balance of looks and performance, not so low its uncomfortable or bumpy around corners etc. Wheels and Tyres: 18" Enkei Rajin Wheels $1600 (very light and strong- look great too) Hankook Ventus RS3 tyre’s, one of the best street tyre’s, Super sticky in the dry and surprisingly good in the wet. $300+ ea Rear: 265/35/18 - Front: 235/40/18 Interior: GTR bucket seats – Very comfy and makes you feel one with the car, no sliding around on corners Custom Airbrushed Red console + dash facia and drivers door panel (smoke and skulls, nice and subtle though) NEW Genuine MOMO Hand Stitched Leather Steering Wheel $500 Feels very nice in hands, good grip (made in Italy) NEW MOMO Quick disconnect Steering wheel Boss NEW genuine Nismo 5 piece floor mat set $300 (very soft for bare foot driving) Kenwood Speakers 6" splits in front and 6x9"s in parcel shelf + Amp under passenger seat Sony touchscreen DVD Player/Stereo with AUX cord Matching black with red Stitching console armrest, handbrake and gearstick boot, black and red gear knob All white LED interior lights including blue instrument cluster lights Tinting Gauges: NEW Depo Japanese Stepper Gauge 4 in 1 "boost, Volt, Oil press, Oil temp" $250 NEW Innovate LC-2 Air Fuel Ratio gauge and wideband $320 Battery/ Wiring/ Electronics: Optima red top $375 (great cranking amps makes cold starts much easier) Blitz Turbo timer All wiring has been done neatly and properly (I am an electrician) all joins soldered and all cables wired to ECU have been labeled with non-fade printed labels for easy ID, corrugated tube used to protect cables where needed When motor was removed I wrapped all engine bay wiring/ looms in foil backed fiberglass heat wrap as an extra precaution Electric mirrors work well Sunroof works and seals well All lights, both interior and exterior work perfectly, as well as all wipers etc. Exterior: Paint is in great condition, just spent 2 entire days thoroughly polishing and waxing using mothers polish and carnauba wax 4/06/18 Panels are very straight, no dents Headlights and taillight lenses in great condition, also buffed and waxed NEW Genuine NISMO clear Side Indicators $70 Other: New spare Remote and key $80 Hicas Lock Mongoose Keyless alarm system and central locking GPS to phone security tracking system – allows you to track the car on a gps map, can even speak to the driver via car speakers or kill ignition all via your phone (never used it - installed by previous owner) Dashcam behind rearview mirror Fluids: Only ever used the Very best in fluids Engine: Joe Gibbs XP6 Racing Oil $35\L Gearbox: Redline lightweight Shockproof Gear oil Brakes+Clutch: Motul RBF600 $60/L Radiator: Wetter water Diff: Penrite LSD I will be completely honest and list every single fault I can think of on this car… NO SURPRISES: a small scratch in rear bar – nothing major the bolt on lip on front bar needs repairing on bottom edge, and paint on bottom of front bar isnt perfect – if you feel necessary a crack in rear of passenger headlight – has been removed, section sanded, cleaned with alcohol and fully sealed with 2 coats of JB weld (worlds strongest adhesive) – already fixed and sealed fully a small hole about the diameter of a AAA battery in the passenger seat - is not tearing or spreading there is some blemishing on drivers side mirror under glass – has not gotten worse in the 4 years ive had her A small bit of gutter rash on front passenger wheel - easy fixed, not very noticeable There is a small gear in fan box that needs repairing/replacing, causes a intermittent clicking sound for 5-10 secs when starting sometimes.. Tinting on rear windows isn’t perfect if I was to keep the car the next unnecessary things I would be looking at doing are: spend a few hundred on a really nice gear shift knob and replace suspension arms with upgraded tubular style ones new diff, although Nissan LSD’s are great already but as I said its not needed its just all that’s left unreplaced on the car IT IS ALMOST A BRAND NEW 2018 R33 NISSAN SKYLINE but better than Nissan ever built, it certainly drives like a brand new car with all drivetrain except diff brand spanking new All inspections by either yourself or your mechanic are welcome, please don’t hesitate to ask any questions I will answer them all as best I can – Or don’t hesitate to ask for more pics if interested, i have about 125 pics of car finished, as it was built, And motor internals, head etc as the motor was put together and much more

Hey all So my driver window motor has given up, i had some issues with it previously and got it repaired although the auto electrician said it will eventually give way again and so it has The pictures below are the motor found in my car, 2001 r34 25gt sedan and im not too sure if it matters from different series. Im willing to pickup the item or if anyone knows where i could go purchase one.

R34 GTT Mid-High range power loss Hey Guys, I'm new to this whole Skyline thing. Just bought myself a R34 GTT about a week ago. Runs great.. Besides getting sub 250km a tank.. Yeah.. I also feel when it comes onto boost its fine but as soon as you go over 4500 rpm it starts to splutter a bit then comes back. While that's happening its blowing a crap load of black smoke out the back. I'm assuming it has something to do with 02 Sensor? I had a look through the receipts and I saw that it has Spitfire coil packs.. Not too sure what they are but they were $600.(I mean I know what coil packs are) Previous owner must of got a CEL because he got it diagnosed and it said bad 02 Sensor. Next question is how much and where is it located... If it's even got to do with the 02 sensor.. Im not sure.. If someone could help that would greatly be appreciated.

Power jack in centre console of v36? Hey guys really stupid question but... How do you connect to the power jack in the centre console? I.e. If I want to charge my phone via usb, is there someway I can plug into this power jack? It looks to be the same size as a cigarette lighter but using that adapter doesn't fit?

I can't find any online, is there another cars pump I can use?

Hi guys, I've got 1996 R33 GTST and it keep losing power when i drive the car. During the drive the car just drops the revs to 0 for few seconds, i push the accelerator but nothing keeps happening, this will go for 4/5 seconds and back to normal but it keeps happening every 10mins. Any suggestions.

Hey Guys, I've had a search around the forum, and excuse me if i missed it. I have a R32 GTR and its fitted with the Power FC unit, does anyone know/Recommend a Tuner (In Melbourne) who could tune the car for me as this is the first GTR i have owned im alittle in the deep for this stuff. Much Appreciated

VCT Problem Hi guys, I have an issue with power loss at 5.5k rpm onwards, after much troubleshooting im quite certain fault lies at the vct. I disconnected the plug, went for a drive and no changes. Same power at low end...and same power loss at high. I removed solenoid to see if actuator is working and it is. ticks and closes when fed direct 12v. Power fc is sending the signal. So its not the ecu. Now when i put the solenoid back into the head. wired direct 12v into it... it ticks and can feel the actuator moving(vibrates) however no change in idle whatsoever. From what i understand there was suppose to be a noticeable change in idle when the actuator closes. nothing happens. Would this point to the vct cam pulley mechanism being stuck/jammed?

Hi all, I am running an RB25DET Neo in my R32 and using the R34 power steering pump and reservoir. I have added a power steering cooler into the low pressure return line as can be seen in the pictures but apart from that it is exactly the same as factory. The problem i am having is that i think i have a huige airlock in the system. My power steering pump is making some terrible noises and my mechanic mate said that it is trying to pump air through the system and tats wy it sounds like that. I am inclined to believe him as i had the whole power steering system apart when i took the engine out and it had absolutely no power steering fluid left in it when i put it all back together, so it seems i had perfect conditions to create and airlock in the system. Many tutorials say to jack the car up, pour the P/S fluid in the reservoir and then turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and just let the system bleed itself and work the air out, but this is not working for me at all. Even with the wheels in the air there is resistance when trying to turn the steering wheel. And obviously it is even harder with the wheels on the ground. With the wheels in the air i have turned it lock to lock probably 200 times and it seems to make no difference at all to how it behaves. My mate said that there could be a bleed nipple or something similar on the power steering rack itself that i can use to bleed the system but from doing a little searching nobody has ever made mention of a bleed point on the power steering rack itself. The only theory that i have at the moment is that it is my power steering cooler causing the airlock. I will get some photos tomorrow of how i have it set up, but basically i have it upside down in the front bar (ie, the power steering lines run up to it to connect to the barbs rather than down to it) Any help ideas would be greatly appreciated as i am really a bit stumped at the moment. I don't want to have to drive it round to work the air out as it is making some truly terrible sounds at any revs haha :|

I have a Fujitsubo exhaust that came as a spare with the V35 I bought. I have no need for it so it's up for sale. Located on the southside of Brisbane but willing to post at buyers expense. There are a few minor scratches/scraps as seen in the pics but no major damage/dents. Very nice looking and sounding exhaust. $450 http://imageupper.co...364477841129589 http://imageupper.co...364477841129589 http://imageupper.co...364477841129589 http://imageupper.co...364477841129589 http://imageupper.co...364477841129589

Hey guys so I just changed my power steering pump and it's making a kind of whirring noise. There are no leaks and I just put in some new power steering fluid. The noise has kind of gone down now after I let it run for a bit. Anyone know what it is? Here's the video:

Hey all, It's cold, and i'm tired, and i'm sick of working on my car atm. RB25DET NEO swapper R32 gts-t chassis. Power windows, and the dash (tacho and fuel sender) is not working. Cannot find any wiring diagrams at all for the power windows, i looked through the R32 GTR complete service manual and i cannot find anything for the life of me. Doing shitloads of googling and it seems a few other people on here and GTROC etc etc are having the same issuse. Power windows don't respond to any inputs and they are not getting any power to them. Does anyone have any idea how they get power? It must be pulled from the same spot as the dash gets power from yeah? I will have a look at some wiring diagrams and try and chase it later. I'm just over it at the moment haha Also why is there not an electrical/wiring subforum?

Hi Guys, Just had my car stolen today from Ashfield 2131 Henry Street. Dark blue Evo 7 GTA only purchased 4 weeks ago Dark tints... "don't touch" on all windows... Original wing and rims Bilstein Exhaust Recaro Seats Ill upload photos as soon as I can. Please please please if you have any information, reply asap. Thanks

Hi guys, Just wondering if anybody has tried ethernet over power, the type that runs ethernet over 240v power points around the home (I'm not talking about Power over Ethernet - PoE - just to clear any confusion ) as an alternative to WiFi. Reason being is I'm on a budget and cannot justify getting an elec or cabler out to install LAN points. I'm thinking to run WiFi only, but ethernet over power has caught my eye as an alternative for more intensive data transfers and gaming. I'm about to move into my place, regular sized single story, 3 bedroom house built in the 1970s - I'm going with the assumption the electrical wiring is still orignal (with the exception of the smart meter and central safety switch). My network setup is fairly basic. - Home theater PC in the lounge - Router/switch/Wifi AP in the hallway, which is roughly in the center of the house - Housemate is a web developer using a PC - Synology NAS to be placed in a cupboard or in the study - PC in my bedroom - Laptops/Tablets for roaming about the place Looking forward to hear about your opinions. Cheers

as above working r32 window relay (black box) $60 can send a pic if you really want haha 0423456426

Hey all I have finally put my rb30det together and I must say I feel accomplished doing it, but the improvements I expected from it are not there. It still feels like my rb25det. I don't know if it is just me or my expectations were to high but everything feels the same. I expected off boost driving to feel better and have more grunt and low down torque and a massive increase in spool seeing as I went from a 2.5 to a 3 liter while using the exact same turbo and housing, but no such luck. To give a bit of background on the car: I had a rb25 with a few mods,forged pistons, forged rods, all bearings changed to acl bearings, freddy intake manifold, t4 twin scroll manifold with the collector for the wastegate merged so you only use one wastegate, hx 40 with t4 .58 housing, 850cc injectors, ford lightning maf, meth injection, walbro e85 450 lph in tank fuel pump all controlled by a power fc. Never dynoed the car but was making excellent power for me. Boost of about 15psi came on full at about 4000rpm in second from a cruise doing about 2000rpm then going wide open throttle. It lit up the tires doing that in second and pulled all the way to red line. In third and fourth I had strong pull all the way to my redline of 7000rpm as well. Needless to say being lazy I knocked the motor due to lack of oil, so instead of a full rebuild I decided to go rb30. I sourced all the parts I needed and built an rb25/30, used the rods and pistons that came with the block with a new set of bearings, rings, rod bolts, crank collar mod, oil pump gear mod and 1.2mm mls headgasket. Reused everything else that would have been on my 25 to finish build. So engine was exactly the same as what was in my rb25 except I now should have half a liter more displacement right?........... Wrong!!!! Car is up and running now and I have put a road tune on it and it feels no different from my rb25. As I stated earlier it feels just like my old rb25 and in some instances less responsive, was just being a bit stink with the less responsive statement, but I was expecting such a different drive that I meant every word of it. Same turbo on the car and the spool time is the same from a log I did full boost at 4000rpm flooring it in second, it doesn't light up the tires the way the 25 did. In fact it doesn't spin them nearly as much, don't get me wrong it pulls but just not as I imagined it. The off boost driving feels just the same as the 25. I figured spool time would drop at least 500rpm and I would need a new set of tires in a day or two from lighting them up in first second and third and off boost driving would feel like my old 25 driving off straight from cold start, but it doesn't. From the information I gave you what do you guys think? Am I just expecting to much or is my disappointment warranted? A little bit more information I forgot to mention. Car had oil leak around crank after fixing mistakenly put car timing out about a tooth drove round like that for about a week boosting and tuning noticed difference from taking longer to crank and loss of response. The car use to start basically half a crank but now it cranks longer to start ever since timing was out fixed it and since fixed the cranking hasn't improved and still feels a bit gutless on the power and response side of things.

Hey Guys, Just switched to larger injectors. Needed to go in and update the latency and cc's. I dont have a commander. Friend dropped by with his Commander and Datalogit. Commander is universal. We can not get either one of them to connect to my ecu. Power to Pin 58, 12v. Motor is an RB25 S2 in it. Any ideas? Car runs perfectly fine, just wont connect to either piece.

I've looked around on the forums about LED interior lighting conversion. I got the jist of it all, and bought the LEDs I need. Then, I became addicted, and now I want to replace the lights in the hazard buttons, electric window switch buttons, and all those random little places. Does anyone know the package size needed for these replacements? (IE: T3, T5). What I found online so far is this: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/32293-hazard-light-switch-lamp.html But that post is dead as hell, and from years ago. Help would be appreciated! Thanks y'all.

Not sure if i am posting in the right section.. if so please tell me.., I'm kind of new to this forum, but have heard its good for information and opinions.. I currently live in Perth WA, I own a Series 2 R33 Gts-t with the following mods Blitz EBC ~ 12.5psi (with quicker spool up) & turbo timer & boost gauge) K&N Air filter (with pipe leading under for better flow of cold air) HID FMIC Splitfire coil packs (with spark plugs gaped to 0.8) Turbosmart BOV Full exhaust system 3.5" from dump to cat, then 4.5" cannon. UN-Tuned. Pulls pretty good for what it is but still not enough for me and sort of have an idea of what i want to achieve high 300's in Horsepower I have been doing some research and wanting to go for a Garrett GTX3071R- 56T Turbo, with Hi - Mount manifold possibly a 6-Boost one with a Mines 44mm External waste-gate with screamer on it... I'm going to Buy these in order.. Garrett GTX3071R- 56T turbo 6Boost Manifold Haltech Platinum pro plug-in R33 *All ready have Mines 44mm ex waste-gate* Fit everything also extending dump pipe.. Then get it tuned.. once fitted ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First question, is it a good responsive turbo for the power im seeking, what would it give out to me?, The site i am buying the turbo off said ***sold without a turbine housing*** on GCG, does anyone know what size or thing i need for this as this is the biggest part im stuck on... Is it good with that manifold and to be ex gated?, Would it be necessary to buy Bigger Injectors? e.g 550cc injectors or larger?, Can i high mount with all the crossover pipes n shit still there? or? Is heat wrap necessary? What boost Level would be a good for what i have, to be safe? is the 44mm mines ex waste-gate suitable for it? I know screamers and BOV's are illegal and can get yellowed for them so i don't need any comments about that, i currently have faker screamer (split dump) and the BOV on and have had no problems so yeah i am just after that info ^... Thanks guys, appreciate any help Brandon,

RB20 ECU power info needed Hey all, Went to test my ECU was working for my RB20 into S15 swap today and was unable to get consult working. RX,TX,CLK all have continuity and are correctly pinned in the consult plug. Consult also has 12v and earth. A little probing revelaed that the ECCS relay is not triggering, i have 12v on both sides of the coil with the ignition off (which is correct as per the nissan r32 servcice manual). I believe the ECU is supposed to switch and earth on pin 16 (ECCS Relay) when it turns on. So lets check if the ECU is turning on. Pins 50 and 60 (ECU earth) both have a good earth. Pins 49 and 59 (ECU pwr supply) both have 12v with ignition on Pin 58 (Battery pwr supply) has 12v battery constant Pin 45 (Ignition switch) has 12v when ignition is switched on If all my power and earths are good then the ECU should be turning on? But yet i can't connect via consult and it's not triggering an earth on pin 16 (ECCS Relay) and triggering the relay itself. As my ECU has a NIStune and NIStune flex fuel board fitted so the little LED's have been removed, so unable to tell that way. Will be checking it all again tomorrow but just after any ideas on why it seems the ECU is not turning itself on. Thanks

Hi i have a series 2 25det r33 coupe i was wondering if the large positive cable that runs from the boot underneath the car along the chasis rails and upto the fuse box could be removed without causing any problems. As far as i know its only used to jumpstart the car from the engine bay which i will not be doing does this cable effect anything else? Cheers.

Hello all - odd question. I knew that upgrading to a 3" TBE with a 100cell cat would increase power and noise but after a few months of running it I am now getting just a tad sick from the fumes being emitted. I am wondering if anyone here has an RB25DET running a 3" Exhaust with a 200cel cat or higher and can confirm what power they are able to get from running a higher cel cat and how bad the fumes are, better if you have changed from a 100cell cat to a higher cell cat. Currently making 204rwkw with no power modifications besides the Nistune & TBE - I am willing to sacrifice power. I appreciate any feedback ?