Search the Community

For sale is my 1996 R33 GTST S2 (Upgrading and yes will add cash to swap for R34 GTT) 232KW at 15PSI (No lag to speak of) Price: Not really sure what it's worth in today's market but I was offered 10k/11k last time I considered selling it. It also obviously depends on certain things as you will read in the ad; Gear knob Sub-woofer Head-unit / computer Fire extinguisher + custom bracket RWC but let's for the sake of the forum rules put a placeholder price of 10k post or PM offers 2 door Turbo (GCG Highflow, no shaft play) Manual transmission (Exedy heavy duty) Silver FMIC 3.5 inch HKS turbo back exhaust Modified stock air box Upgraded slotted brake rotors all around Bosch 040 equivalent fuel pump Engine bay strut brace 18" DTM Rush rims Apexi pencil turbo timer HICAS lockout bar 4 x speaker 2 x tweeter 1 x AMP Awesome Mongoose M80 alarm saved the car from being stolen once already! Tinted windows 160k km *New* battery *New* PowerFC (with hand controller) *New* 2 x front tyres (can do more tyres as part of purchase at discount cost, have friend who owns tyre shop) The car has an under front seat bracket for fire extinguisher and the fire extinguisher itself. I would plan to take this with me unless the buyer particularly wants it. Run on 98 Smurfs blood gearbox oil Castrol GTX engine oil Car was broken into and has just come back from repairs. Good alarm proved it's worth it's salt First i'll describe damage then resulting repairs: Door and ignition barrels re-done Alarm siren replaced (original ripped out) New battery (died when they f**ked the electrics and ripped out the fuse box/wiring) Dash replaced with series 3 Sub-woofer stolen (more on that later) Head unit screen smashed (more on that later) Gear knob stolen (more on that later) Front bar paint damaged (Going to be fully resprayed by insurance) Right hand side paint damaged from someone side swiped me (Right hand side full re-spray covered by insurance) Power FC stolen and brand new power FC replaced brand new Power FC manufactured straight from the factory in Japan (3 week wait). Brand new tune from Racepace. Car was doing 240KW on the last tune but not even getting 300KM to a tank. New tune is 232KW (unnoticeable power difference) but gets like 60-70KM more per tank. Haven't got an exact figure because i've only used one tank since I got it back from tuning and didn't get to run it to empty. This was a vid I made before the car got broken into. So now i'll address some of the things I said I would. Sub-woofer stolen means a few good things for the buyer: You can provide your own sub which I can install (cheaper for you) You can buy it off me with no sub (cheaper, lighter, more boot space or whatever your reason) You can pick a sub as part of the purchase of the vehicle and I will install and sell as part of car Gear knob stolen: I am borrowing one from a friend and the same BYO, buy without or pick and buy as part of car applies as above. Head-unit: Still in working order. Only the touchscreen is broken, everything else is in working order. It also has a remote control so it could be completely usable like that. I imagine most people will get it replaced but this allows someone to have a fully functional audio system and they can then take their time to do research, find the right head uni, save for the right head unit or do something different altogether. So the same BYO, buy without or pick a head-unit / computer and I will install applies. Personally I was going to replace the head unit with a touch-screen interfaced computer so that I can run windows or linux or whatever I want on it. This would allow me to do things like: RFID door locks which lock and unlock based on your proximity to the vehicle Give the car WIFI so when I park in the driveway it can connect to the home WIFI and sync all my new music to it Remote car start Display speed, revs, and other diagnostic information on the screen Add NAV, GPS, accelerometer into it for normal driving and for cool stuff like lap-timing or speed runs Add an in-car camera which can record traffic incidents etc to the computer and then when I get home it will connect to WIFI and automagically transfer it all to my home computer Add a SIM card and give the computer 1GB data for $9.90 per month for google maps or pandora radio or whatever you may need to look up on the run, especially if your phone has died The only thing wrong with the car at the moment that the insurance isn't going to cover is my heater core began leaking while being repaired. Racepace bypassed it and I am in the process of acquiring a new heater core for it and the dash is already mostly out. This also gives me a good selling point opportunity to tell you than I am meticulously cleaning everything behind there. Man those air vents were dusty. 20 years worth of dust I guess. Also because of the coolant leak I will be shampooing the carpets in the car.

I'm looking for a guru with rb20det powerfc tuning experience. I've just finished my project car and moved to a place with no tuning companies. None anywhere close. I will supply specs if anyone can help. Probably stage 2-3 Mild modifications.

hey guys have up forsale my r33 just had fresh tune, new timing belt/seals/bearings done. less than 1000km ago. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/blackstone-heights/cars/r33-s2-12k-ono-hks-turbo-power-fc/1004383872 more pics available on request, contact via 0400341730 located in tassie asking 12k ono 170xxx manual power fc hks gtrs turbo hybrid front mount 3' striagh through exhaust MBC sard injectors split fire coilpacks bilstein suspension brand new aluminium radiator + silicon hoses silicon intake

Im looking for a rb20det powerfc tuning guru. Ive just finished build and moved to a place with no tuning companies. Stage 2-3 Mild mods. Will supply specs if you can help

Hi all, Haven't posted on here before, so hopefully this is the right section! Recently I encountered a problem where my R33 would not start. The engine cranks, but it will not catch and turn over. I checked all the basics: spark plugs were fouled, changed out with new matching plugs with same gap, coils firing, injectors pulsing, getting fuel, no cooling pipe leaks that I can see or hear. Eventually I had someone come round and the only way we could get the car started was to physically advance the CAS timing slightly and the engine fires right up. I'm running some light modifications: PowerFC (car has been tuned etc..) GTX3076r Turbo 740cc injectors Z32 AFM Walbro pump (not sure which one) LS1 coilpacks (direct on coil incl. igniter) Once the car is idling with the timing advanced slightly, the powerFC is showing 20 degrees, with my base ignition timing being 15 degrees originally. The maps and settings on ECU have not been changed since it was tuned several years ago and has run perfectly fine for years, so I'm wondering if I'm most likely looking at an issue with timing belt jumping some teeth? Any insight would be great! I don't have a timing light at the moment and wanted to see what some thoughts were before trying to start working out how to verify alignment of everything. Cheers!

I'd like to have a go at getting O2 closed loop feedback working with datalogit so I can get some stable fuel ratios off boost. I don't have a fuel temperature sensor so on long journeys, it seems like I am getting some small fluctuations when temperatures change. That, I think, is the only explanation I have for my fuelling going slightly lean (0.5 AFR), on a long journey (150+ miles). I've checked air temperature, voltages, fuel pressure and all the corrections available to me to no avail. I've also raised before that I get a lean condition when turning air conditioning on which is annoying again; grounding all seems fine and voltage corrections seem fine. I've been investigating and found that from most tuners, you'll get these problems if you're running everything in open loop because there's just so many things that need correcting, i.e. a small rise in fuel temp changes the amount delivered. I've got a regularly calibrated MTX-L wideband that I use for tuning which is plumbed into AN1-AN2 on datalogit. I've got O2 feedback turned off because I don't have any narrowband sensors on my car but I was thinking that I would be able to turn the MTX-L to provide output in lambda instead of AFR. If I do this, where do I sort the wiring? is it basically wiring the wideband into the loom that goes into PowerFC? Datalogit just shows 0.005 for O2-1 and O2-2 constantly. I would assume that once PFC sees the wideband putting out the voltages it expects for the O2 sensors, it shouldn't care whether it's a wideband or a narrowband and my AFR problems will go away. I can have the MTX-L display gadget just understand the voltages I tell it and to display the AFR accordingly so I shouldn't notice any visual changes.

RB26 package value? Hi guys To cut a long story short, I have a Laurel with a 26 in it and the engine isn't registered to the car nor engineered. I have a few RB20's in various states and am reasonably tight for funds so thought I might sell the 26 off and put a 20 in for more legality and $. Here's where SAU helps: I can't find any RB26 packages for sale to get an idea of a price without ripping myself off or anyone else! I'd either sell it complete or part bits and pieces off it. Internals are unknown, will pull the sump off and have a look when the engine is out. Specs are as follows RB26 internally unknown, runs quietly and smoothly and does all the right things Trust (or copy?) stainless manifold HKS gate Garrett T04Z pretty sure 0.82 rear Power FC tuned very poorly, was told it's a "run in tune" Bigger injectors but unknown specs Twin Z32 AFM's genuine Trust Y pipe to suit Missing coil pack cover I think that about sums it up Any help would be greatly appreciated. Kindest regards, Nick

I've got an r32 gtr that has recently developed an issue. It currently runs a power fc, HKS twin spark and splitfire coils, 600cc injectors and 2860-7 turbines. I did the timing on it not long ago and marked the belt before removal. When i went to install the belt again I timed it according to specs and noticed that the intake cam was 3 teeth out from my mark. I re-checked my timing and found that I was correct and the cam was retarded by 3 teeth before. Now the car doesn't make boost till very late and the power fc is making the engine check light flash when it comes on boost. I think this is due to engine knock, but I never really monitored it before hand to compare it to how the graph is now, and I'm not the best with power fc's. Is it possibly a trick somebody has tried to do to set the car up to perform better at high rpm before it was tuned? Or are there some sort of aftermarket cams that recommend to do this? Im confused! Here is the knock level when the light is flashing

Hey Guys, Just switched to larger injectors. Needed to go in and update the latency and cc's. I dont have a commander. Friend dropped by with his Commander and Datalogit. Commander is universal. We can not get either one of them to connect to my ecu. Power to Pin 58, 12v. Motor is an RB25 S2 in it. Any ideas? Car runs perfectly fine, just wont connect to either piece.

RB25 + R34 Garage Clean-out Garage Clean-out: Everything has been pulled from various working setups. Open to offers, prices copied from previous posts, welcome to inspect/test. $300 - Blitz R34 RB25det Return Flow Intercooler $850 - HKS GT-RS Turbo $600 - Kinugawa TD-06 20G Turbo + Highmount Manifold (RB25) + TiAL Sport Gate + Custom Dump Pipe $800 - Apexi Power-FC ECU with Hand Controller R34 RB25det $250 - Impul R34 RB25det ECU $200 - Custom Plenum Creations RB25 Forward Facing Plenum $400 - Exedy HD Organic (NSK-7172SO) Good Condition $50 - Stock GTR Fuel Rail and Injectors $20 - Stock R34 RB25det SM Intercooler $50 - Stock R34 RB25det Throttle Body $50 - Stock R34 RB25det Pink Label AFM $100 - Stock R34 RB25det Cams $100 - Stock R34 RB25det Turbo - Suits Rebuild $100 - Stock R34 RB25det Coil Packs The Kinugawa TD-06 20G was part of an engine package I purchased. It apparently made ~300kw on an RB25, I have not used myself. The GT-RS made a reliable and responsive 260kw on my R34. Sold as is where is - Located Morningside, Brisbane. Happy to provide further photos/info if required Selling due to upgrades I also have a Stock RB25 Engine available, currently stripped. Cheers,

Hey guys, first time poster, looking for some advice/help with my R33 S2 gtst. Pretty sure my CAS just died as the car cranks but wont start. A few weeks ago I took it out to get to my power steering pump and the key on the camshaft side was snapped and floating around. I managed to realign it when I put the car back together and it ran with no issues. Went down to start it yesterday and the car would not start. Cranked with enough battery voltage to start, ecu came out with code 55 so I have nothing else to suspect other than the CAS being faulty. I took the spark plugs out and they didnt smell like petrol. Going test with a multimeter to make sure but I had a question before I go ahead and buy a new CAS for $550 (if anyone has one id buy it for cheaper, im located in Sydney). I have a power fc I have yet to install, and I have not been able to find anywhere a Trigger kit that says it will work or have enough information of their page. Since ill probably have to get a new CAS my thought was why not just upgrade to trigger kit for around the same price, or just a little bit more. I'm not particularly aiming to make power that requires a trigger kit, but aligning the CAS everytime without the key is gonna get annoying. (I will eventually upgrade to tomei cams but am holding off until I finish the rest of the work I need done) I've had a look at most of the trigger kits out there (PRP, Ross, Hi Octance, etc.) but if anyone has any insight whether any of them will work with a Power FC that would be helpful!

Battery disconnected to Power FC for a long period - will it forget? I'm going to be putting my car into long term storage (1-2 years) and am considering disconnecting the battery during this period as I may not have access to a power point for a trickle charger or solar maintenance charger. I know a couple of months is fine, but have never heard of anyone disconnecting it from a PowerFC for extended periods of time. Does anyone know if my PowerFC will "forget" its settings? I don't really want to have to get it completely retuned when I reconnect the battery after a long period.

Hi guys, long time listener, first time caller. So I've done some basic mods to my 33 and was somewhat disappointed with the results. Mods as follows: Front mount GCG high flow running 18psi 740cc apexi injectors Upgraded coils (yaris) Walbro pump Z32 afm Power fc Exhaust and bellmouth dump E-boost 2 Maybe more, can't remember............ Any who, I live in the NT. Car made 201kw on the dyno on 98ron. My question is will a set of cams help me power wise? Not chasing huge numbers, just wanna flog it up to the 130k speed limits here ;) Car is responsive, drives really nice, but everyone wants more power yeah? Any feed back or advice on next step for upgrade/more power appreciated. Thanks in advance.

RB25DE+T PFC idle Hey guys, Had this minor annoyance for a very long time, from memory probably since the powerfc was installed and tuned 6+ years ago. Maybe because I'm getting older it's starting to annoying me more. I turn the car on in the morning and idle is high, 1500-1700rpm, but stable. On the hand controller it all looks pretty stable, not sure if idle this high when cold is normal with other powerfc's but so far it doesn't annoy me. As I'm driving around and idling at lights while the car is still warming it's still sitting at 1500rpm, on the hand controller once the water temp gets to about 59-62 degrees it starts hunting, from 1500 rpm down to 900rpm and back and forth every 1-2 seconds and will continue like this until the water temp gets to about 72+ degrees then idle is perfect, 850-900rpm. The only way to control it during this time is let off the clutch a little bit until it bites and slowly lower the revs, then I slowly press my foot down on the clutch again. If I put my foot down too quick on the clutch or roll forward a little the hunting starts again. Only happens when the car has been sitting for a long time, eg overnight or all day and then come back from work and turn it on. If the car gets to operating temp and then I turn it off for 1-3 hours and the engine is still pretty warm no issue, idle is perfect. Now before I start playing with the TPS voltages and mucking around pulling apart things I'm wondering if this is just something in my maps in the low load/idle section that needs adjusting as it only happens for ~10 degrees so I would have guessed the voltages on the TPS are fine? Car has been tuned a number of times many years ago by a very reputable tuner. It happened as soon as I swapped the standard ECU to the powerfc and it has been like this ever since, even with adding in cam gears and a z32 AFM. I have used contact cleaner to clean the AFM and I've cleaned the AAC with throttle body cleaner and ear buds in every little knook but no avail. Any suggestions? I've found this post from long ago which seems almost identical so I'll give turning off O/2 feedback a go (not sure if it's enabled currently or not) but wanted to see if others had the same issue? Thanks.

So just brought a power FC, go to plug it in and it won’t connect, laptop keeps saying “please check ecu connection”. Car start with it plugged in so it works, just won’t connect to laptop. Has anyone else had this issue and have a solution?

Anyone on here have any info on the vq table required when tuning the r35 afm on power fc. Have yet to decide but possibly 3.5” pipe or 4” thanks

GT3540r .5 front internally gated .8 rear with all lines and fittings - 800 Full 3" exhaust, 100 cell metal cat, (92db) with an extra 2.5" rear section to pass db tests - 500 Yelow jacket coil packs - 250 Modified air box with k&n filter - 170 Jim berry full monty clutch - 600 550cc jecs highflow injectors - 500 Power Fc ecu with hand controller tuned for above setup 284rwkw - 900 Apexi boost gauge - 150 Greddy turbo timer - 60 Gizmo ms-ibc ebc - 300 Walbro GSS342 255 fuel pump near new - 120 All items located western suburbs of melb, happy to post, also happy to do a package deal. 0424999936

For sale Apexi Power FC for R32/R33 GTR Apexi PowerFC and FCC3 Hand controller Model GTR33L 020 $800 posted!

Hi Guys Up for sale is a brand new Boost Addon Kit for your PowerFC's, its designed to control your boost settings through your PowerFC hand controller. $350 + Postage. This model fits the following vehicles: 93-98 Nissan Skyline ECR33 93-96 Nissan Silvia S14 (Before Minor Change) 93-96 Nissan Silvia S14 (Before Minor Change) (D-Jetro) 99-02 Nissan Skyline GT-R BNR34 (D-Jetro) 89-94 Nissan Skyline GT-R BNR32 (D-Jetro) 95-99 Nissan Skyline GT-R BCNR33 (D-Jetro) 99-02 Nissan Skyline GT-R BNR34 89-94 Nissan Skyline GT-R BNR32 95-99 Nissan Skyline GT-R BCNR33 I was intending to use this but decided to go with a different ecu & boost controller. It's brand new in the box with all of the manuals & fittings still in the bags, had cert of auth from Apexi Japan. Thanks.

Hey all, I have a brand new Apexi Power FC for sale, comes with later and backlit EL series hand controller. It is an L-jetro type and will also come with a brand new Z32 airflow meter. I have decided to go with a Haltec ECU. price is $1300

Hey fellas, upgraded my ecu recently. Have my D Jetro up for sale. Mint condition comes with two map sensors and hand controller. Works faultlessly!! $900ono

Price drop!! I have Decided to go with a Haltech ECU. So I am selling a brand new Apexi Power FC with hand controller (L-Jetro) model: 414BN032 Apexi Power FC & 415-A030 EL series Hand controller Revised Hand Controller functionality Back lit display $900 ONO Also have a brand new genuine Z32 airflow meter with plug $150 ONO

Set of 6 Genuine Splitfire coilpacks. Only removed as no longer required. $450 Free postage Australia wide.

Up for sale is my Apexi power fc L-jetro with hand controller for r33 GTR. I’m after $700. Selling due to upgrading to Haltech elite. Located in Melbourne 0432164099

Hey, I've got a few things for sale, pickup is Glenmore Park NSW or can discuss postage for cost. BNR34 Dash Cluster, I bought in 2011 and its sat in my garage since, its got a low 21,189 on the ODO reading. $2,800 I have a spare Impul Front Bar for a 34 GTT - unpainted $250 This is what the painted one on my car looks like. I've got an Xtreme Heavy Duty race clutch, it did <10,000 kms, ended up switching it out for a nismo super coppermix. $200 PowerFC + Hand Controller for R33 GTR mis-purchased thinking it was for an rb25det $350