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Found 15 results

  1. Hello So its sorta hard to explain, but ill try my best. I have a 1998 R34 GTT Skyline, It has a rb25det NEO. It has no engine mods other then an oiled HKS Pod filter, Apexi Front mount intercooler and an Apexi AVC-R Boot contoller. I have a problem (is most noticable in 3rd gear) where when i hit apoximatley 5000rpm power drops and from outside the car it sounds like im on red line apprently. I am still obtaining the same out of boost and injection percentage according to the Apexi AVC-R. When i set the boost at stock pressure the problem goes away. However the problem accours again when i turn the boost up. Starting at 9 psi and onward up to 11 psi! (i havent tried to go any higher) iver also tried it with traction control on and off and it makes no difference. Please help, Do i need a tune or new plugs and coils, etc... Thanks for your help, Im new to all this. Alex
  2. it all started to happen after i had made a backup for my pc and canceled it half way and ever since whenever i start my pc i have to manually go into the bios menu and select which drive to run windows on does anyone have ideas on how to fix this thankyou.
  3. i have an r33 s1 1993 it has done 175xxxkms and i have had no issues until a couple of months ago when i started the car after stopping off at the shops and it sounded more like a wrx and was shaking like a bitch.. i stopped about 50m up the road and looked under the hood and around the car and figured out it sounded like it was coming from underneath, so i let it sit for awhile and turned it back on, issue still there until i messed around with the immobiliser button and then shifted the gearstick (it is auto) from P to 1 a couple of times which seemed to trip the car back to normal... limped home and hoped it was a one off. After a couple more times of this happening i figured out it would only happen on the 2nd start for the day, and only if i started it after only a short period of time elapsing inbetween starts... also taking note of the fact the shaking would almost completely go away when the car was above 2500rpm I have only been driving the car when absolutely necessary and have noticed that the car makes a ticking noise on idle and once the car has turned off, sounds similar to the tick a car makes when cooling down, but is more rapid and coming from underneath the car, im assuming it is coming from the cat converter The car uses fuel like crazy, probably somewhere between 300-350km per tank, but i have only gone through about a tank and a half in this time so i cant get a good average I have noticed only in the last couple of drives that when i am driving on a flat road or on an incline that the minute i take my foot off the pedal the revs immediately drop to 1000 and then sit on around 1200rpm, it makes the car feel like it is engine braking meaning i have to keep my foot on the pedal to not lose a significant amount of speed almost straight away i am a beginner when it comes to cars and engine maintenance so i am not sure where to even begin with the issues, i have checked fluids and they all seem normal but that is the extent of what i have done i would appreciate any advice anyone can give me on what to do!! if it is gonna cost me a heap of money to fix then i will just sell the car and start again, so any advice of this nature will be even more helpful! I have read through page upon page of the forums but i can only seem to find posts that cover bits of my issues and not the whole lot, and also have read lots of different suggestions but i cant seem to find a common enough fix between them all.. thanks!!!
  4. hey guys, i got a 2004 v35, and as i was driving the other day, my engine just cut off, when i go to start it, the engine cranks but it will not start, all the dash lights are on as well, i took it to northside nissan and was sold a new battery and told that was ecu couldnt be found with their scan tools... and want to send it off for inspection for $350... plus whatever extra it cost on top to fix. has anyone had this problem ? or can anyone suggest a specialist in perth that specializes in V35 or 350z ? cheers
  5. Hey guys, I'm having some problems with my r34 gt. I just had a timing belt done and its been over three months and there is still nose coming from the belt area,I have no idea what it is or how to fix it. If anyone from vic can help me,i'll be really great full. cheers.
  6. R33 skyline my hazard lights work but my indicators don't ive replaced the flasher unit and the indicator head light stalk the fuse is good any help will be greatly appreciated
  7. R31. Help with ics and TPS. Hi all. Hot a problem with my idol switch and Throttle position switch. I managed to get them working sweet this week with no stall and fuel problems. But then this morning got in and started her and it was sluggish on takeoff again and gluggy when sitting at lights. Last week I managed to get the faults on the computer sorted so they didn't flash for fault 23,24. But now comp reads there faulty again. It looks like that haven't moved at all so just wondering if anyone can help befor I start the process of fixing them again. Cheers
  8. 1982 R30 Engine problems Recently got a R30 Skyline which had been sitting for a while, after some minor work got the engine started but it will not continue to run if any throttle input is maintained, not sure if I need to leave it to run for a while before trying. Someone please help me, engine is a L24E.
  9. Hello again fellas,i finally realised my problem with my rb25 today an i was wondering if yall cud help me out...so its pretty simple actually...but im not a electrician.So basically when the car uses other electrical components(like windows,A/C) ; it causes my air fuel gauge to read lean gradually till the car cuts off....i was hoping anyone cud tell me the wire which is wrong/bad,Thanks for any help in advance
  10. Good day, My Nissan Skyline V35 250 GT stop operating at 100% a month ago. I was driving accelerating then when i hit 60km/h it started to shake showing an inconsistency in power and then finally just stopped revving and could only idle. I disconnected the airflow sensor and could only rev it it to 2500 rpm. My mechanic suspected the pump and then we changed it and tried to connect the air flow sensor back, then it wouldn't even idle but switch off. What could be the problem because my next port of call is the fuel pressure sensors as advised by the mechanic? Good day, My Nissan Skyline keeps shaking when i reach 2500 rpm and when i
  11. After a lot of headache asking for help, I have a r33 rb25det motor ( block number confirms) I got a rebuilt gearbox with changeover. Old gearbox had noisey bearings and crunchy 3/4 shifts, with a brief visual they looked the same. I upgraded from a exceedy sport tuff h/d clutch also has fitted a exceedy lightend flywheel to a NPC 300rwkw capable clutch for future mods, after fitting the new gearbox after elongating some bellhousing Bolts, slightly off compare to old mostly the bottom ones going through the backing plate.... there was excessive clearance between the clutch thrust bearing and touching the pressure plate. clutch slave cylinder push rod wouldn’t fit, after using NPC guidance there was 24mm clearance between, which they’ve never heard of, after fitting a longer thrust retainer to remove the clearance down to 6mm the clutch wouldn’t fully disengage, in gear foot on clutch turning the tailshaft clutch could be heard dragging and had abit of resistence to turn, whilst driving it was crunchy there was 10mm height difference on pressure plate clutch fingers when bolted to flywheel between clutches after drivability problems I decided to play around with spacing the clutch fork pivot and decreasing clearance down to 4mm but the NPC clutch still was dragging, so I decided to fit the old exceedy clutch that was working (now has been sitting for awhile) I fitted all the original parts from the old gearbox thrust retainer, removed clutch pivot ball spacing, now this clutch wouldn’t disengage at all, so I’m at a loss help.... summary rebuilt gearbox with new oem front plate where thrust retainer slides on new clutch slave cylinder, bolt pattern one on top one on bottom NPC 300rwkw clutch exceedy lightend flywheel 2mm difference overall height difference to factory flywheel apparent auto to manual converted new clutch pedal box everthing bolts up the same except for lower bellhousing bolts and starter motor needed to be elongated
  12. Hey I’m looking at buying an r31 skyline and I was wondering, what are some things that I should look for when going to inspect an r31
  13. Bad piston rings or damaged cylinder walls? Recently, I opened a discussion on my excessive oil burning that my rb25det does and thanks to the help of many enthusiasts we concluded that it is bad piston rings or a damaged cylinder wall... or can it be both? Engine had a full upgraded rebuilt 6 months ago with it being bored over .020 over. It has been driven 1000 miles or 1609 kilometers since I have compression tested all my cylinders and it showed a psi of 50-70psi. When I did a wet test it shot up to 120-135psi My rb25det has a 1.5 cosworth head gasket so compression will be lower than normal My hopeful prediction is that the piston rings have seized, been installed improperly, or the rings are worn out. The reason why I don't believe its damaged cylinder walls is because every cylinder shows the same sign of compression loss and piston rings go out together. Cylinder walls are unlikely to all be damaged at the same time What do you guys think?
  14. Hi guys as topic states I have POS Mongoose m60 or m80 I'm not 100% which model. I bought the car with it installed. Having a look under the dash and in engine bay, whoever installed it did a shocking job, wiring looks butchered. I've had issues with it from day one, going off as I drive hitting bumps, car stalling due to the immobilizer etc. So tonight went outside only to hear a loud buzz coming from the siren itself no matter what I do I can't turn it off. (Don't have the skeleton key). My brake lights were on as well and when you try to turn ignition to on there is no power at all. I've disconnected the battery and stuffed the siren with rags until the backup battery goes flat and it shuts up. I'm not confident with electrical let alone an immobilizer to try and have a crack at it myself. I'm at a loss I need an auto elec in Melbourne who is a pro on Skylines. Can anyone give me a trusted contact please? Apologies for the long post but thought I'd share what is happening. Possibly this has happened to a member here also who can point in the right direction.
  15. Hey guys i just recently got my r34 manual converted. since i have had it back it has been running slugish (worse then my NA r34). so while driving it the boost gauge goes up in boost and you can hear the turbo spooling but it feels like i am not getting any boost at all! the part that seems weird is that it seemed to drive normal when cold? (felt like it had boost. i didnt test that to ghard though since the car was cold) any help would be much appreciated, thank you
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