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I'm back after a boring 6 years :D Hi all, so like the title says iv been a shit c**t for the last 6 years and haven't been an owner of a skyline but now i'm back with a fresh user name. So after owning an R32 GTS-T and also an R32 GTS4 in the past i am happy to announce i am now the proud owner of a R32 GT-R. I picked this lil gem up on the 4th of June and am over the moon with my new purchase, its a 1990 r32 gt-r with 93,000kms on the clock with all the paper work to verify this is genuine, it is rust free and stock besides the cat back exhaust, aftermarket suspension and the 17" work emotion XD9's. I think this is a beautiful example of a 1990 GT-R and would love to keep it that way with a few stance mods in mind for the future and some basic engine and power mods as well, as time goes on and my savings rebuilds i will definitely be posting more in the forums for advice and how to go about my build and how to keep my RB healthy and strong. As iv been a member in the past i know there are a lot of guys out there that know there stuff and a lot of guys out there willing to help another member in need so i look forward to talking to a few of you ;). While i'm hear though i have got a question..... My car has no alarm or immobiliser!!!!! Any recommendations on what is best to protect my car and where i can get it all fitted?? I'm located N/W of Melbourne in the Macedon Rangers area and can definitely get my car in to the CBD if i need too. Cheers.

Hey guys, I have a rather weird boosting issue with my car. Car would run/boost fine, then all of a sudden it would run weird and won't boost past 6psi. I shut the engine off for about 5 seconds, fire it up, runs fine, then after a while (5-30 minutes, no certain interval i.e. random), same weird issue. During this 'boosting problem' mode, as soon as the car goes above 0psi, it will surge and run rich. On overruns/shifting, it will dump fuel (exhaust makes cool popping noises). Shut engine off for 5 seconds > fire it up > runs fine. Sometimes it will run fine for over an hour. Sometimes it will happen after 5 minutes. This issue occurs when the car is warm. Perhaps AFM(s) is playing up, unable to afford a new pair of them unfortunately. Still doesn't explain why it won't boost past 6psi (or 350mmHg or 'halfway between 0 and 7' according to standard boost gauge). Any ideas/experience?

Gday guys, I’ve posted this in other places online but no one has given me an answer to this question **(edit- also did a search regarding HICAS delete/HICAS solenoid here on SAU too and couldn’t find anything after a good look so apologies in adavance if it’s asked a million times and I missed it)**, is the HICAS solenoid required on a 32GTR after HICAS itself is deleted? Just wanting to know since I’m in the middle of an underbody and subframe refresh. The car already had a HICAS delete before I bought it and the two hardlines that go from the solenoid to the engine bay/power steering system were already completely disconnected and just sitting there open to the elements and unattached to anything, it’s just that the solenoid itself still had the brown electrical connector attached to it at the rear end of the car. Happy to tuck it away in the back of the shed with everything else not needed that I’ve pulled off the car but if it’s still needed to be electrically connected to make a circuit to do something in the car I guess I’ll have to bolt it back in. The car will be running a full aftermarket ECU and dash set up if that’ll help me to understand if it can come out so it could possibly be tuned around or have no warning lights on the dash. cheers guys, have a good one!

Unused R32 GT-R Genuine Nissan left hand strut tower assembly This has been in storage for a while and it's time for someone to use it to repair their GT-R.Brand new still in Nissan primer but has a few scratches and light surface rust as pictured. P/N: 64101-05U30These are $770 trade from Nissan.Pickup Bayswater VIC or can post at buyers expense. Contact me via here or collins.andrew.acATgmail.com