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I'm looking for a guru with rb20det powerfc tuning experience. I've just finished my project car and moved to a place with no tuning companies. None anywhere close. I will supply specs if anyone can help. Probably stage 2-3 Mild modifications.

Is anyone wrecking an R32? I'm looking for the weather shield retainer for a 2 door. Both driver and passenger side. Would prefer someone in Sydney, NSW so I can pick up.

Im looking for a rb20det powerfc tuning guru. Ive just finished build and moved to a place with no tuning companies. Stage 2-3 Mild mods. Will supply specs if you can help

R32gtst So I've decided to buy a r32! I'm pre approved for a loan but only have 2 weeks to use it. I have the option of about 3 cars. 2 of them have rb25det but run RB20 transmissions. And 1 has the standard rb20 The 2 rb25det are around the $10-12k and the other is $6k I have a budget of around $15k Question is am I better of buying the 25 swapped ones and spending a few thousand on mods. Trying to reach the 250kw -280kw with a budget of around $5k Or buying the rb20det one and having around $9k to spend and doing a 25/26swap ? The car will be only used as a weekender and maybe a track day once a year. And whatever one I get will be upgraded over the next few years.

Hey what's going on I'm new to this site just purchased my first Skyline. It's a 1992 R32 gtst with a rb25 Neo swap. I'm looking to put her away this winter and build her up. Right now I'm looking into body kits. Hopefully I find a decent company producing some good work. Would really love a 324 kit.

so i was driving home the other night, coasting at 80kmh, so just feathering the throttle when i noticed my car would pick up then back off, pick up then back off.......by itself without me pressing the pedal further. any ideas??

Well it looks like its time to replace my diff(380,000km). Being a viscous unit standard it is my understanding that reshimming/rebuilding is a bandage for a bullet wound, rather than spend the 600odd getting it done better to save and buy a new diff. What other option do I have?? This is where my problem lies - I want it to be nice on the street.....I've read and searched the forums and it seems as though the general consensus is to buy a 1.5way diff fit it to your car and learn to deal with the sounds and chatter at low speeds etc. My car is not a daily driver anymore, usually take it out a couple of times a week for an hour or so of driving but that's about it. I have no intention of drifting it, perhaps some circuit work in the future, but more than likely will be 90% street driven. I have no idea about diff's really apart from the research I have done on google, sau and magazine articles. I am still a little confused when people say they lock under deceleration and can spear you off in the wet......surely this is a rare occurance unless you are pushing the car. Most of my driving is 'nana' spec, so will installing a 1.5way inhibit my driving pleasure. After the suspension upgrade http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/426868-suspension-part-replacement/ the car is nice to drive, has nice power and handles well now. A little off topic but I 'tolerated' shitty stiff g4 coilovers for four years till I got aussie spec teins last year and the car has been so much better to drive since and vowed not to 'just learn to live with it' when upgrading anything else now. The diff might be different though as I have to replace it really and with no other option I may have to deal with the driveability of a 1.5way. The posts I've read make no mention of what clutches people have when putting a 1.5way/2way diff in their cars. I have a os giken twin plate, will this and a 1.5 way diff make it unbearable to drive on street?? The last question may sound stupid so please keep the sarcasm level low, but my vin plate says rc43 - so 4.3 diff ratio?? The nismo gt pro has 4.3 ratio, not sure about kaaz or cusco. Will changing the ratio change my speedo - the sensor is on the gearbox so I'm guessing it wont - again I got no idea really so low volume sarcasm please if you feel the need to leave smart arse remarks. I should have done mechanical engineering at uni instead of civil I guess lol. My car has 239rwkw, rb25 and box, 3071r, pfc, injectors etc and the os twinplate. When I do buy a new diff, a local diff guy will be installing it - I wouldn't know how to set the backlash correctly. Cheers guys Mick

Hello All, I have a quick question, I just bought some wheels for my 4door skyline, they’re 17x8 +30 and the website I bought them from (figment industries) has a thing where you put your car model in and if it has stock brakes suspension etc in it and it gives you wheels that SHOULD fit. I bought the wheels and when I went to put on the front ones, the wheel spikes hit on the front STOCK brake calipers. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if so how can I fix it or what wheels do I need to get/ specs so the spokes clear the caliper. My stock wheels already are very close to the caliper as is so I’m kind of lost as to what to do. It seems the stock caliper in the front are huge! Thank you guys, I also know that people have put rpf1’s on it because I’ve seen pics of gtst’s with them but idk what specs to get to have them not hit on the spokes

Hello, So at my last track day a couple weeks ago everything was going fine but after a couple sessions all of a sudden when i was pulling into the paddock, my car would not idle at all and had horrible misses below 2k rpm. Everywhere else in the rev range it ran fine an did not break up. Now I've done some testing so I went with the simple stuff first: plugs gapped right, r8 coils(deletes the ignitor). That did nothing. So then i replaced my coolant temp sensor and checked tps voltage, that fixed the idle issue. So I went to check my timing. With the light the first time i checked the marks were so far past advanced that it would have been blown up by now, so I was confused and shut the car off to have a drink. Came back and started it up again to look and now it was a little past the last mark at 30* degrees and was able to get it to 20, with the cas retarded almost all the way it allowed me too. I then went for a test drive and the car ran fine but when pulling it out of the driveway it died. I pulled it in to check the timing and it was the same at 20*. So i went to drive again and got out on the road and got on it, it reved up fine and built boost with no missing, but felt like it had legitimately zero power, and off throttle it gurgled a bit. I replaced my cas and that changed nothing. I'm stumbled at this point. Any pointers?? Thanks for any help.

R32 actutor on R34 with gnd solenoid Hi guys, I've spent a few hours searching for this exact setup and haven't really found anything. I have a R34gtt with a full 3" exhaust. I have fitted the r32 gtst actuator. My question is, if I ground the original dual stage solenoid an have it connected what boost should I see? Has anyone done this? I have a afc neo and wideband to smoothen out flat/rich spots etc. Cheers for any info!

selling a set of front (296mm) and rear slotted rotors. EBC red pads for front and green rear for R33gtst rear rotors and pads will also fit on R32 front slotted $220 rear slotted $130 front pads $170 rear pads $120 located in melbourne west for pick up can post at buyers cost $25 for the lot