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  1. Hi Guys, I am new here. This is a great site. I have an R33 GTR Vspec. I replaced my cracked stock rad and fan with a Mishomoto rad and fan shroud. The car did not overheat with the stock rad but did with the Mishimoto. We tried cutting out the fan shroud so that the aircon fan could blow through the rad but the car would still overheat even at idle on a 25 deg day. We switched back to a factory fan and overheating is gone. But now I notice coolant on the top of the rad and it seems to be pushing through the Mishimoto rad cap on hot days. Looking at the setup I can't see how the coolant overflow bottle can work, as the overflow hole is above the point where the cap seals, see below photo. So it seems like the coolant is heating up, expanding and then has nowhere to go except past the cap seal. You can see the red coolant on the top of the rad. I can't remember if the setup is the same on the stock rad. Can someone with a stock rad check for me? I also noticed that the coolant was boiling in the hoses today, which was 30+ deg. Is this normal? Any advice is appreciated.
  2. Not sure if this is a dumb question, or not but would an r33 gtr rear windscreen upper moulding fit a gts/t. Have sourced one for $45 but is for Gtr, which is weird seeing other gts/t ones I’ve found are considerably more $ . Also says It’s oem? $45 seems cheap for oem and gtr. Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance!
  3. Hi guys, I have a problem. First of all I do have a Twin plate clitch in my r33 gtr. When pressing the clutch pedal it make some rattling noise, after reading and gathering some info this is considered as normal with those type of clutches? The bigger problem is that my gearbox sometimes gets stuck in 1st gear when im stopping with the clutch fully pressed it still wants to go forward. Also its really hard to change gears sometimes. I ve done an gear box oil change and bleeded the clutch line (both damper and slave cylinder). Nothing helped. I would need some advice where too look at next. Could it be that my clutch pedal needs to be adjusted? (clutch feels heavy but normal and the point where it grabs is late) Please give me some advice :) BR
  4. Brake Lights Staying On Brake lights staying on !! Hi all Just noticed my brake lights and wing light are stying on . Took it for a short drive then put it on stands to see if it brakes ok .It does. Checked all the fuses all fine . Took the battery off. Any suggestion / ideas would be much appreciated Cheers Bruce
  5. looking for a pair of R33 gtr indicator surround been looking for ages but can only get the drivers side. im in brisbane QLD and am happy to pay postage
  6. Hi have a twin plate clutch for sale, done approx 500km before it was taken off the car, I don't need it any more as no longer have the car and it is sitting around collecting dust item location is Western Suburbs in Victoria. Fits r33 gtr and I think late model r32 gtr Can post at buyers expense Asking for $1800
  7. Hi all just another 600awhp thread. I did a search but all the old threads were quite old and as we know technology does get better so here is a newer thread., I just picked up an HKST04Z single turbo kit at what i think was a good price for my R33 GTR. I am looking at making 600awhp with the intentions of using a flex fuel tune so E85 should get me there. Basically from a bit of research the below parts should get me to a stage to achieve this goal at a budget. Please if you have any advice or think i should change something then all ears are open. The fuel pump is mainly my biggest concern. Ill be going with a Link ECU with Flex Fuel and Boost Control. We will soften the limiter up as much as possible to prevent harmonics destroying the oil pump as still a standard motor. Larger Intercooler ( Already in car ) HKS T04Z Turbo, Manifold and wastegate ( Purchased ) HKS Fuel Rail ( Purchased ) 1000cc Denso Injectors ( Purchased ) Nismo Super Copper Mix Clutch ( Installed ) Either HKS or Tomei drop in Cams ( Not Purchased ) Should i get adjustable cam gears or not really required? Also will Valve Springs be warranted for my goal? Use a standard oil Pump with Billet Gears ( Not Purchased ) 1.5mm Head Oil re-stricter ( Not Purchased ) Is this all i need to do ? After market Head Gasket to handle the extra Boost. Will i have to deck the block and head for this? Walbro 460LPH Intank Pump ( Not Purchased ) Would this work as a replacement in tank pump? Will i need to run a bigger supply line for this power? I do want to avoid mounting a surge tank but at the end of the day if i have to i will. Fuel Regulator ( Not Purchased ) ARP 2000 series head studs ( Not Purchased ) If i need anything else then let me know. Obviously ill be replacing all of the coolant hoses and intake gaskets while the motor is out. If anyone is selling any of the above parts that i may require then flick me a PM. Cheers
  8. R33 Gtr Complete Crossmember With Swaybar, mounts etc RB26 r33 gtr complete crossmember with sway bar and misc bits $250 Individual parts available for sale. All items can be seen in top pic. engine cradle/crossmember $200 front swaybar with linkages $60 rb26 engine mounts $25 each
  9. got an Apexi PowerFC and hand controller for a r33 GTR, bought it thinking it was for rb25. $350 + postage
  10. In the golden age of now, it is more than obvious that the BCNR33 is the ultimate race-bred chassis out of the lineage. Whilst the BNR34 commands a higher price, the reality is upon its debut in Super Taikyu racing it quickly fell behind and was then replaced by the faster older BCNR33 chassis'. The design & wheelbase of the BCNR33 relates to it's superlative & brutal performance. This reality meant Nissan focused on 'improving control at the limit' for the BNR34, to help the everyday driver which essentially made it a slower car and why a new Nurburgring lap time was never set. Not only did the BCNR33 make history at the Nurburgring, it terrorised Le Mans knocking coming in 5th in Class & 10th overall. We all know how restricted the R33 was in both of these events, so the fact it left 911's, NSX's, F40's and Mclaren F1's behind is simply amazing. As we all know, by now most BCNR33's have fell victim to accident damage &/or structural rust particularly in Japan & the UK. Just about every example I looked at in Japan in Grade 4 condition had structural rust through seams and on the underbody. For a long time they were swept under the rug and unappreciated, so this is no suprise. Thus it's important that for those of us with an immaculate example - to come here to the thread, drink a coffee, post pictures & discuss just how great the BCNR33 really is. If we ever decide to sell (which is highly unlikely due to our sentimental attachment to a 'rare breed') anyone from overseas looking will be able to find us.
  11. Hi, So after towing my car on a car trailer it started to run really rough, it went to an alarm installer and got immobiliser, alarm, tracker installed but two days later it wouldn't even run. It kicks over but engine just won't actually start. The injectors are getting very low pulse and the crank angle sensor doesnt have a heap of spark when turn manually or via ignition, we've already had the alarm guys test it and they are adamant it isn't the immobilizer causing any issue. At the same time the spark plugs are now fouled, and two relays in the boot connecting to the twin fuel pumps have blown as well. Any ideas where to start looking? The ECU is a black box and there is a eflex sensor and AEM AFR cut in place which reports but then when trying to crank says sensor offline.
  12. Selling Engine/Transmission combo as going 3.0LT/2.8 and sequential (Open Class Track Car) Built rb26 for sale (under 1000kms) Completely blue printed and clearances set + bearings supplied by Orger Engines in Bayswater (old winfield GTR builders) (all paperwork and invoices available for build) Assembled by myself @ RaceEquipped Engine is complete ready to bolt in and connect up. (minus Hotside and coilpacks) Was at 353KW on run in for close to 12months with 0 issues, car was redynoed 2 months ago by chequered tuning, with spark blow out at 360KW @ 6000rpms only (shooting for 9-9.5k RPM), car has been parked, motor pulled out for getrag conversion, rewiring job, engine bay stitch weld, front tube end, ignition system etc. it Is a reliable 500-550KW Build HEAD (New R34 GTR Casting) COMPLETELY Reconditioned Head (cracked tested etc also) - TOMEI Dual Valve Springs - TOMEI Retainers - TOMEI Buckets - TOMEI Metal Intake Gaskets - HKS 272 10.8MM Lift Cams (head modified to fit) - New Rocker Cover Gaskets - Adjustable Cam Gears - All Reshimmed - New Cam Seals - New Intake Valves (standard exh) - 3 Angle CNC Valve Seat Cuts - Guides (New OEM Nissan and Bronze) - Cam Covers - Head Drain - 1600CC injectors - ALL New Water hoses BLOCK - Torque Plated, Honed, Tunnel Bored, Crack Tested, Tanked ETC - Ross 86.5MM pistons (HPC Coated) and H Beam Rods - ACL Race Bearings throughout - Short Nose Crack sleeved with long nose collar - N1 Pump + Reimax Oil Pump Gear - Full Balanced Rotating Assembly - Extended Sump (6LTish sump) - Tomei Sump Baffle with drilled out rear returns - ARP Headstuds - Tomei Head restrictor - Tomei Headgasket - New Timing belt kit - New Water Pump $9000 For Motor R34 GTR Getrag GBox $7500 - Gearbox - Front shaft - Tailshaft - Flywheel - Nismo Used Twin plate Clutch We all know the mighty Getrag has known to hold 1000HP (Missing shifter, Crossmember and clutch fork, these can be found brank new and is $600-700 for them off AMAYAMA.com or from Nissan JAPAN have all partnumbers) $15.5k for both box and engine. 0403485395
  13. Hi people, I'm looking for an r33 gtr hicas wiring harness/ plugs and hicas motor relay to do an electronic hicas conversion on my r32 gtr. I have tried all of the skyline/jap spares and wreckers I could find and haven't had any luck, if anyone on here knows where I might be able to get one or has one, it would make the project a lot easier and make it a lot neater. I have everything else ( r33 gtr hicas ECU, yaw sensor, rack assembly, clock spring and a good set of wiring diagrams which I have already cross referenced to the r32 diagram to make it work). Any info or help would be appreciated. Thanks ?
  14. Need straight subframe as the ones in my car where in a accident and are slightly out of alignment prefer someone in Sydney to save travel
  15. Hi, As per topic.. After a R32 or R33 GTR that has a blown motor or is in rolling condition. Chassis and body must be in good condition. Preferably with no rust or Major accident damage. Ideally in the following colours – Grey, Black, Silver or Blue (TH1) but will consider others… Any spare parts that come with the car would be a bonus. Please contact me if you can assist. Many thanks Al 0423 835 014
  16. Hi, It sounds like one of my HKS GT-SS turbos is failing ( getting the low siren noise when accelerating ). They would not have many K's on them and was considering just buying a single replacement turbo . They don't appear to make GT-SS turbos themselves anymore so I would have to get the Garrett GT2859R's. I don't really want to upgrade turbos at this stage as I'd be up for another $2500 for a tune alone. A single turbo is $1400 vs a new kit at about $2,500 for the Garrett GT2859R kit. What do you guys think? I think it would be best just to replace the single with a GT2859R. Thanks, Pen
  17. Hi! Is the truth if clutch is without springs on discs or center hub it can destroy the gearbox while fast change gears? I have 520whp R33 GTR with ATS Triple Carbon clutch, after 2 years i crush 3 gear in the OEM gearbox - i know that is weak point of that gearbox and we can extend life of the 3rd gear by slower change but im curious about theory with springs inside the clutch?
  18. For Sale: Apexi GT Spec Down Pipe (Part Number 145-N001). Constructed of fully polished SUS304 stainless steel. Piping Diameter is 70mm x2 - 80mm. Down Pipe has been modified with A/F Sensor Adapter. Removed due to going single turbo. Location: Lansvale Sydney. Price: $400.
  19. Rare 18" Veilside Andrew Racing Rims 5X114.3 2x 9" Fronts 245 40Z R18 Nexen N3000 75% tread +34 Offset 2x 10" Rears 265 35Z R18 Achilles Atr Sport 2 tyres Brand new driven less then 100kms +45 Offset Reason for sale, i have sold my car after a melted piston incident. I personally imported these from yahoo japan for $2200 in 2014 The rears have some minor rash around the rim , the fronts are perfect. Clear coat has been removed from the rims and they are polished Raw alluminium, very easy to keep clean that way Always got alot of comments on the rims. no buckles, perfectly balanced, all centre caps included. They were mounted on my 300zx, but will fit other imports aswell, direct fit to r32 gtr, and r33 gtr Contact via phone, sms, message , email and ill get back to you when im available. 0422974090 $1300 negotiable for serious buyer Located Perth, Leeming south of the River Will fit r32 gtr , r32 gtst, s15 etc and other imports
  20. Selling up on my track build i bought a while ago, to pursue other investments and have no time, have heaps of spares to go with it if someone wants to start there own timeattack/circuit build, it will be sold rolling with stock suspension on 17 x 9 P1 Buddy Clubs (no front brakes unless sold with 8 pot fronts) Front end cut off ready for tube front and tubs cut out. It Has - Stock rear brakes (ksport fronts can be sold with extra) Interior Loom Engine Loom Doors (with power windows still) All Glass Interior Floor Carpet boot lid (no spoiler) OEM guards OEM front bar Front end cut off ready for tube front and tubs cut, Boot Plastics - OEM fuel tank and surge tank set up, - OMP Race Seat, - Steering Wheel $5500 for roller Spares to get with it! Nismo 1.5 way front and rear (Brand new) $3400 K Sport * pot fronts (brand new) $1900 Rear Dogbones and Discs to run 335MM Discs @ rear stock calipers $450 TOP Stage V3 Wing (new) $2100 Top Stage Carbon Headlight Panels $400 R34 GTR 6 speed Getrag Conversion $7500 BM57 Upgrade $250 ABS delete Kit $300 Shitloads of other spares also i probably havent mentioned. Will sell for 18K as a package. (3k off) Via Inbox or 0403485395
  21. Hi guys, Been out of the scene for some time but i am finally in the market to purchase a gtr. I am currently looking at one that has surface rust all underneath, however, on the strut tops and in the boot-well are completely clean. As the car came out of factory with the cold weather package i am a little weary that there is rust places with limited access without removing panels or jamming a camera between panels etc. I am just wondering if anyone can recommend a panel shop that knows skylines quite well and can go over the car for me before purchasing around the Blacktown area. Also just wanted to see what everyone's thoughts are of the rust underneath and strut tops. It seems to me that the strut tops look all original but i am a little iffy as the sealant on the seams is quite thick in places compared to the gtst that i had a few years back.
  22. WTB: RB26DETT out of an R33 or a front cut of an R33 GTR Will probably need to be able to post as I live in Portland Victoria, willing to travel if need be
  23. Stolen Black R33 GT-R Charlie GeeTr asked if I can post up details of his stolen GTR on the night of 23rd June (last night). * Black R33 GTR * Reg DJH48C * Gold Face2 GTC Wheels * Front Series 3 Bar and Lip * Stolen from Merrylands
  24. R33 GTR Vspec -MNP targa car My targa spec R33 GTR is up for sale. very regretful but don't have the time to do the build I want to do. as mentioned this a targa Tasmania spec car and was very competitive. Main build was done back in 2007 after import and only saw targa events from then onwards. Few mods - DMS Motorsport coilovers. All arms adjustable, Hardrace mainly. Brembos need a paint job but still work a treat, running forza FR6 pads (literally brand new) Could do with new rotors, ATTKD 2 piece from Just jap are my go too. Enkei RPF1 18x9.5 - 265 RS3 all round Rotor something 18x9.5 spare set yokohama s drive's - these were a wet or street set 6 point weld in CAMS certified cage with harness bar, will come with CAMS log book. Side intrusion is very easy to get into and out of even for me who is 6'7, interior trim still in but cut to fit cage. Will come with simple bucket seats as I only just purchased the Sparco and it is very bloody hard to get seats that fit my fat ass so not keen to part with it. 5 point harness' Aftermarket helical cut gearset (not 100% sure what, told ppg) opc clutch. Held a 6-700 hp motor before this motor. Running Haltech plat pro, Haltech wideband & gauge, Can HUB, 3 bar map sensor, Haltech boost solenoid (18psi) terra trip rally computer and terra trip intercom system, tuned on E85 @ godzilla motorsport (made 300kw) motor has n1 turbos custom stainless intake piping with pods, 1250cc bosch inj, aeroflow fpr, dual feed rail with stainless braided fuel lines from back to front, AI sp1200 surge tank and holley dominator external pump + walbro 460 lift pump, oil cooler with T'd in Braided line to boot for Moroso Accusump, Split fire coil packs, have a spare set as well. Baffled catch can with breather. My aim was to put everything in needed to support a big power motor and aside from an extended sump it is pretty much there. Most the hard work is done. was waiting on extended sump to plumb the catch can drain back to sump. I literally copied this whole setup from another track 33 gtr that ran consistently for 4 years and only met its death due to engine bay fire caused by fuel line split. It is the best setup you can do to save an RB before going to dry sump (arguable statement) Aircon still in great working order, perfect for sitting in pit lane waiting to go on a bloody hot QLD day. This car had a monster motor which made up to 700hp but motor spun a bearing so a reconditioned one went in and is about 18,xxx old, Nismo 320km cluster reads 92xxx Car was registered in Tasmania and has a mod plate for seats. Was about to sort out the mod plate for cage and a few other things but dont have the time to do what I want to do anymore. Would look at swaps for other cars of interest, street cars, 4x4, Track only cars etc. I am not going to pretend this a concourse condition car it certainly has marks and scratches in places and the sills are not in perfect condition. This was and is a track based car, what I can say is it has been very well looked after over the years in terms of maintenance. Consistent oil, oil filter, fuel filter changes and spark plugs just changed. Always used Penrite 10 tenths 15w 50/60. Have just picked up the new Nulon racing oils 10w-50 and was keen to see how it performs @ $110 for 5L it aint cheap and would stack up over a race season so I am hoping it is an epic new oil. Price is $36k Also have a semi enclosed trailer for an extra $5k Plenty more pics and info just PM if interested.
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