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I have an R34GTT project that I brought many years ago. Has original Rb25det engine and manual gearbox with HD clutch to go with it. Car had been modified and previous owner stripped aftermarket turbo and performance parts to sell car and never put back together. So engine needs stock injectors and turbo put back on (pretty sure I have all of this) and engine and box put back into car. Pretty sure almost everything is complete to reassemble, clean mostly complete interior car had 145,000km at the time it was taken off the road. Needs front and rear bars painted(lower Altia kit) , has been stored for at least 6 years that I have owned. Fully complied and clear title. Being sold as Is where is. Will be getting some pics in the next few days. From memory it had tanabe coil overs, nismo sway bars and a few other bits and pieces that I would have forget about. Probably missing a few bits and bobs from being stored in pieces for so long. Want $7K on Stockies or $8k with a set of genuine 19" volk CE28 19" gold rims but open to offers. car is located in Deniliqun NSW 3hrs from Melbourne, 7.5hours from Sydney, 6hours from Adelaide. Strictly pick up only, no delivery. Not interested in organising freight as parts are bulky. Judging by recent 34 prices if someone is prepared to put in the work could end up with a nice cheap genuine turbo manual GTT These will be the next generation of collectable car like the genuine mx7 plated vl Calais turbo I don't come on here much but pm me I'll check it over the next few weeks

Hi guys I got a issue with my R34 GT-Turbo 1998, Semi Automatic for Months now but manged.. Regardless when the car is cold or warmed up, when I shift into Reverse or Drive.. the rpm drops and will stall. It starts back up again perfectly fine. Now the only way I can manage to bypass this is to give it a little gas right after I shift into gear so the revs won't drop and stall out on me. And also when I come to a full stop at a red light for example, the car revs would drop and sometimes stall too. The only way I can stop this is manually use the TipTronic and shift it into Gear 1 before I fully get to a Stop and it won't stall out. I forgot to mention most importantly that the A/T light flashes before I start the car up. it flashes 16 times. Now it also gets WORSE, lets say I attempted to "Drift" which I never have even done, but lets say I wanted to, for example. When I get to a Roundabout and start turning while giving abit of gas, the revs somehow holds back and the A/T light then comes on after I turn and the car will start going into LIMP Mode. So I would have to shut it off and start the car back up again and it runs fine and the A/T light is gone. The only way I can bypass this that when I get to a corner or a sharp turn.., I can't accelerate while turning at the same time all else the A/t Light comes back on, As I straighten the wheel back straight the Revs pick up again as if the car didn't allow me to go fast on a corner... I can't even have a joy ride anymore My power Steering fluid is full too so hmmm Now I just got my Throttle Position Sensor changed and cleaned the Throttle, I have also checked for any vacuum leaks carefully but nothing. I changed my Coil packs/spark plugs recently too, Cleaned my O2 Sensor, Cleaned the Air flow meter and checked for any leaks, cleaned the Idler Air Valve, Checked my Automatic fluid and its nice and red and on Full (also got it serviced for new transmission filter and fluid changed) tried a lot but still no good Now I can only think of Solenoids A & B or some sort of Sensor The R34 GT-T features : Stock BOV, Aftermarket Pod Filter, 3" Turbo dump pipe, Stock Intercooler, Splitfire Coils, Ngk Iridium Spark plugs. I'm thinking of getting rid of it after spending so much on it but still no mechanic can diagnose this for me. What do you guys think ? Thanks !

Hey guys I've got a r34 gtt with a greddy forward facing plenum, I'm installing a front mount intercooler, the core and hot side pipings are done. For the cold side piping, is there any ways or ideas to run the piping without cutting any bits off the chassis? because of being a forward facing plenum like the gtr i can't run a return flow. Anyone done this before or has an idea how to get around it? i really don't want to cut the chassis as thats where the problems start as I'm in vic and rules are anall.. also spoke to an engineer today and said cars with airbag cant be engineered with chassis mods. Any help will be appreciated. THANKS

Hi everyone, im looking to sell my R34 GTT. Pictures will be up in the next few days. 1998 r34 GTT 2door Nismo cluster. Nismo triple guages. Nismo gear knob. Nismo front and side clear indicators. Drift blade drivers seat on adjustable r34 rail, both ADR approved. not a cut and shut rail. work xt7 wheels bronze, 18 x 9.5 +20 all round. 235 tires all round. blue work wheel nuts. heavy duty button clutch (not sure of brand, was in car when i bought it) New Blitz coilovers. Adjustable front camber arms. HICAS lock bar. Adjustable heavy duty whiteline sway bar front and rear. Blitz return flow fmic Apexi highflow panel filter GCG high flow turbo hks 15psi actuator hks cam gears splitfire coilpacks highflowed injectors bosch 040 fuel pump 3" turbo back exhaust catco 3" high flow cat converter reinhard 3" catback with 3.5" twin tips. Power FC ecu with hand controller (power fc is currently housed in a standard ecu case, i have the standard power fc ecu case as well) tuned by status tuning. Mongoose alarm, immobilizer, keyless central locking, vibration sensor when armed. Alpine CDA-9887 headunit hertz 6.5" front splits hertz 6.5" rears 6 channel audison amplifier 12" P.audio subwoofer. 12month rego, and RWC. I've owned the car for a little over 2 years. i've used the car as a daily driver everyday for those 2 years, it has not once had an issue. Always garaged at my house when home. $24,500 ONO SE Melb suburbs. I think that is all, any questions dont hesitate to ask, PM me if you want to come and see it and ill send you my mobile number.

I am looking at becoming a Stagea owner and need to off load my R34 to finance it. 1998 R34 GTT, with 105,000kms. Manual. NEO engine. 100k service done. Hypergear G2 FNT Turbo. NIStune ECU with duel fuel maps. Run NIStune from the "stereo" CarPC and change fuel maps at the servo. Wideband O2 guage for self tuning ability. 270rwkw on PULP98, tuned by Autotech. 290rwkw on Ethanol (E-Flex), tuned by Autotech All power upgrade supporting mods done: (All made to look very factory) 550cc injectors. Blitz Turn Flow FMIC. Genuine Walbro 255lph fuel pump, with full voltage mod done. XForce 3" full exhaust with Loboka 100CPI Cat. Varex 3" Muffler with custom valve button on the dash. 3" Metal intake with pod, hidden inside modified factory box with snorkel. R34 GTR wheels. Slotted rotors with redstuff pads and braided lines. adjustable coil overs. Also have the original shocks and exhaust to chuck in with the sale. Downsides: It hasn't had any under cariage mods done. Still needs Hicas lock bar, and bushes done. I'm looking for $18,000

White Manual 145000km... Extremely well taken car and always garaged. Genuine mileage and has done the major 100000km service which includes the timing belt, spark plugs, etc. Serviced every 5000km. New clutch. Accident free. Modifications include: front mount Apexi intercooler, light-weight 17inch Nismo wheels, TEIN springs, full turbo-back exhaust (HKS muffler). HKS air filter, HKS blow-off valve, HKS turbo-timer and Blitz electronic boost controller (not connected but will be given to the buyer). Alpine sound system. Regretful sale as I am changing to a bigger 4 door car. Asking price: $13,000 ONO Call 0411640504. Serious buyers only please!!

Hi im looking for a bov wit adaptor to r34 gtt (er34) Also looking if anyone has a 3" dump and/ or front pipe for sale please pm and a photo would be great Cheers

Clean qm1 r34 gtt coupe, manual Hey guys, Up for sale is my 98 gtt Car was imported in 2002, and has 214,000 Despite the kms this car runs perfectly, my focus of the build was cosmetics with performance in mind later. Due to circumstances changing i now have to sell. Im asking 21k, due to seeing standard ones selling for the 15-17 mark. Im not desperate for sale so don't bother low balling, no swaps Exterior East bear front Lip Nismo front and side indicators East bear rear bumper with seperate pods V spec side extensions Gtr rep wing, with genuine blade Gtr rear foglight and brand new nissan badge East bear bonnet attachment R33 gtr intercooler mesh bonnet has had extensive modifying to replicate gtr one All paint is fresh except roof, guards and doors but is still in excellent condition Interior Drift seats and jjr rails Double din pioneer. Bt, usb, dvd Alpine type r coax front and rear Custom fit shadow defi style gauges, recess in the factoy location with brand new nissan glass V spec 2 cluster bezel V spec 2 gear surround, ash tray and stereo surround. All brand new from nissan ($700 worth) Ac, gauge cover, window switches all painted in satin black Gtr door valet lights Brand new oem gearknob Wheels and suspension Freshly painted Volk te37s, 18x9.5 +12 Semi slicks all round Nismo shocks and springs (insanely comfortable Performance Blitz return flow intercooler, pipes painted black Turbosmart boost tee Drift pod filter (airbox also supplied) Turbosmart dual port (comes with bung to make it legal) Hks 3" catback Superspark coilpacks Roughly 3-4 months nsw rego Plates come with Better to text me 0432 232 767

Red 1998 r34 gtt manual Hi guys ! 1998 manual sunroof R34 gtt First owner in aus. Maintenance Full log book history since purchase (65,000km)approx every 5thousand kms (currently 116000km) Most recent service was 9/1/17 100,000 km service completed with geniune nissan belts, bearings and water pump. Modifications: Engine: Stock airbox Nistune Hypergear atr43ss2 Plumbed back bov 3 inch JJR dump pipe Nismo 3" catback muffler 3" DVS metal intake pipe Nismo fuel pump Bosch 1000cc injectors HPI evolve radiator dual core Blitz return flow front mount intercooler Z32 AFM Turbosmart boost tee Heavy duty exedy clutch Splitfire coilpacks Suspension Whiteline front and rear swaybars Stock spring and shock setup (springs are factory lowered potenza springs) 18 x8.75 matte black wheels with good kumho ecsta tread. Other Headlights: genuine nissan xenon headlights professionally fitted with projector lenses. This cost me a mint. Only 2 others i know of in the country. Nismo front and side indicators Interior: Nismo aluminium gear knob Leather gear knob/lever accents. Double din bluetooth headunit Alpine splits and rears Engine components installed by DVS JEZ with run in tune. Finalised tune with unigroup engineering. Currently at a humble 240rwkw. Car doesnt leak. Idles quiet. Drives smooth is not loud and has a good service history. Car comes with 6 months registration. Downsides: Front bar has stone chips which i will rectify in a week or two (price will change reflecting this) Heater core matrix has been bypassed. If you are interested in this vehicle, you can read about my journey with it here: As you can see i love this car. I dont see as many as i used to. Im happy if it stays with me and i wont let it go cheap. I now have a new life with a beautiful wife so a big late model V8 sedan,wagon or ute appeals to me at the moment. Some photos courtesy of SAU cruise I have a lot of paperwork as proof of maintenance mods etc. I will only respond to private messages and texts On: oh four 1 1 five 3 8 nine three 3 Vehicle located in toongabbie NSW Cheers

R34 Auto Off headlights Hello, So today i modded my headlights to they turn off automatically when the key is removed from the car. I am doing this on my 1998 R34 25gt. It should be the same for the gtt at least, and somewhat similar for other models. This will make sure you cant leave your headlights on when you park only to return to a flat battery. (I've done this 3 times now) Tools: Soldering iron, Wire cutters, wire strippers, pliers, Crimper (i just used my pliers) Supplies: Solder, 3 horn relays. (i used jaycar part SY4068) at least 12 connectors to put on the relay tab (you need 12, but the packs from jaycar come in 8 packs.) couple of meters of wire Heat shrink First you will have to remove the plastic surround that goes around the steering column. There are 3 screws underneath. undo these and pull down on the handle that adjusts the wheel height, with this done it should just pop off. once this is done you will need to remove the lower dash piece. On mine there is a screw on the left and a couple of bolts on the right next to the bonnet release. you should now be able to pull it off, making sure to disconnect any plugs that are on the panel. there will be a bundle of wire coming from just behind the wheel under the dash then back up under the dash, In mine it was already cut open so this is where i attached my relays. you will need to find the correct wires that control the head lights. In my case it was the RED/WHITE wire, RED/YELLOW wire and the RED/BLUE But you should check these are correct. Best way i found is to look on the back on the indicator stalk there are 2 plugs, one has about 12 connectors on it, the other has 4. The connector with 4 plugs should have the wires said above and a green/white one. (Again your mileage may vary) Where ever you decide to splice into these wires you might want to cut the wire and extend it about 10cm on each side of the cut so you have a bit more room to work with. I soldered my little extension on the cut wire and heat shrunk it up. With this done i crimped the connectors onto the end of my wire and connected these to pins 87 and 30 of each relay. Now to get some power to toggle the relays. you will need some that is only powered with the key in the ignition. I got mine from the 12v socket next to the shifter. Connect a length of wire to the pos and neg of this and run it to under that dash (There might be a better spot to get this from, but i couldn't think of anywhere) then you will have to split this between the 3 relays. you can do this how ever you want. it should be pretty straight forward. crimp your connectors onto these wires and plug them on the remaining relay plugs. When moving the key to ACC you should be able to head the relays clicking. if not check your getting 12V on the connectors and that they are plugged in to the correct pins. it should be pins 85 and 86. Check that the lights all turn on with the key in the ignition. remove the key and the lights should go off with that.

WTB: Manual gear surround cover and centre triple gauge cover matching in colour. Where can I buy or does anyone have some for sale?

1998 manual r34 gtt 324kw Hey guys. ive been thinking about selling my r34 gtt so this is more of an expression of interest but if the right price is offered then we can come to an agreement. the car has been my daily driver for the past 4 years and has been garaged warmed up and maintained as much as possible. regular services done at 5k intervals and 1 major service during my ownership. the car has been resprayed by previous owner and was close to stock with only an exhaust and a nismo 1.5 way diff. currently the car has 224,xxx km on the clock and is mostly highway kms (engine and chassis) but is running perfectly fine can and will provide compression test if desired. since owning i have done several mods to it and its become a fun daily driver and as a bit more potential if desired. it also has a brand new battery the timing belt waterpump and oil pump were all replaced at 200k km with the transmission oil and dif. the interior is clean and tidy with no stains in the seats only has 1 light tear in the rear seat, has factory floor mats that are a little worn in the drivers side and being a non smoker there is no smoke smell. steering wheel is showing its age but its nothing serious. currently the car as is has the following extras: walbro 460lph fuel pump splitfire coilpacks tomei poncams type b bosch 100amp alternator ev14 725cc injectors turbosmart hypergate 45mm external wastegate apexi avcr boost controller plazmaman intercooler with cusom pipework (done by havoc fab) hypergear atr43ss2 turbo (2014 model and journal bearing) nistune with flex fuel z32 afm full custom turbo back 3.5" ss exhaust with magnaflow highflow cat (done by havoc fab) custom external wastegate off turbo manifold (done by havoc fab) BC coilovers npc 10" sprung button clutch with lighten flywheel nismo 1.5 diff hicas lockout bar z-tune front bar, side skirts and rear pods work xd9 18x9 +30(front) 18x10 +38 (rear) nismo clear indicators front and side boost, oil temp, water temp gauges pioneer headunit with front and rear, speakers, amp and 12" sub car makes 286kw on pump fuel at 18psi and 324kw on e70 at 18 psi. due to maxing out injectors we did not get a full e85 tune and could not use more boost. car was tuned by trent at chequred tuning. its been running on this tune for the past 3 years and never had any mechanical issues. so with larger injectors and a full e85 tune could see much more. cons: paint has seen better days, theres a few minor surface rust spots and theres a bit of rust near the boot brake light as well as stone chips on the front bumper. as well as the engine is getting older so it may be a put off for some people but it is not showing signs of age. there are also a few tiny dents. as stated its currently only expression of interest so not in a rush to sell it. will come with RWC and rego till sept and a whole year from then. also have a few spare parts that will come with the car for free including, 4 standard wheels and tyres (varying wear on tread) standard gauge cluster, standard rear pods, standard replacement clutch. and a full set of brand new tyres on the work wheels. probably forgotten a thing or two but thats most of it. car needs tyres and to fix the hicas light before passing rwc but will sort that out. reason for expression of sale is. i had built a 900hp built 25/30 literally ready to go into it but someone offered me a price for the engine package and then i lost interest in the car and now would like something cheaper to run. no test drives (without deposit), tyre kickers or time wasters. looking for $16,500 ono any questions contact me on 0431394082 via text, i work allot so wont always be able to answer calls or post on here located in Geelong cheers

Hi all I am chasing 2 R34 GTT RB25 Neo Spitfire coil packs. Brisbane Cash waiting Pm me or leave details on this post please. Thank you

Exemption for high power vehicle Hey guys, not really sure if I'm posting in the right spot. But whatever, hopefully get a response. Im aware this topic has been talked about numerous amounts of times, however nothing really relates to my situation. I have bought an R34 GTT off my dad for super cheap, without really thinking of the turbo restrictions for P-platers. I'm aware there is a high power vehicle exemption and I was inquiring if my situation could be valid for it or if I can obtain some sort of exemption. I live in Townsville QLD, I am currently in the ARMY. It is the only vehicle I have, and I can't really afford to be buying random cars here and there to suit my p- plates, regardless of whether it was 500$ or $5000. It's merely to get me back and forth from work and I can't afford another car. I live 20km away from the base and there is no public transport whatsoever. Taxis and ubers are costing me a tone as well. I already have bills to pay as well as support my family (Mrs) and this is creating extreme financial hardship. Driving would be so much easier however I believe my car is restricted because it has a turbo and 132kw to the tone. I also have to work irregular hours, and I get called in literally around the clock for rehursal and so on etc.. Hopefully there is a solution to my problem? Cheers fellas.

Hello everyone so I have a question about the rb25 engine. So in my skyline r34 gtt I have the rb25de neo engine but I want to get it turbocharged. What parts will I need to get for it to work properly?

Wanting to buy a r34 gtt altia front bar. Same as one in photo, snapped mine a couple weekends ago in a hill climb. Happy to pay postage. also chasing Xenon headlight (drivers side) gtr style rear bumper Send me a message if you have any of these Thanks shaun

Hello everyone, BEFORE I START PLEASE ASK QUESTIONS IF YOU HAVE THEM For a few months now I have been thinking about changing the controls on my old Triptronic steering wheel to audio controls and this weekend I actually sat down and did it. I must say that it was quite the bitch, and I went through many different designs before I had the final version, and this final version, in my opinion, is the best way of doing it. This guide isn't a step-by-step walkthrough unfortunately because I have already installed the system into the car, I am writing this in retrospection so other people can also do this on their cars, as I have seen it asked about many times. First I'm going to cover other designs that I have seen which are either stupid, needlessly complex or just wont work as expected FAILED DESIGNS Using a 4-way transmitter and reciever (As seen in THIS video) (Would work but needlessly complex and many POF) Wiring resistors inline and running wire from steering wheel back to head unit (A steering wheel rotates //2short) Using a pre-existing PCB and wiring it in on the "dash-side" of the steering column (Ribbon cable in wheel boss wouldn't support enough inputs) OK, Now that that is out of the way. We get onto the good stuff. Below is 3 things. REFER TO THESE INCASE OF UNSURE OR COMMENT 1. A video of the finished product AND a talkthrough of how it is all wired (I rambled a bit) 2. A rough wiring diagram for reference 3. The notes of which wires are connected to what and the pin layout of the PCB. ALL WIRES MAY NOT BE 100% REPRESENTATIVE OF YOUR CAR (ie. Different Colour or Pin) SO PLEASE CHECK WITH A CONTINUITY TESTER FIRST WHAT YOU NEED Steering Wheel Control Harness (Most often comes with your stereo as a 3.5mm jack) Universal Wired Steering Wheel Controller (What I used) (I MIGHT SELL PEOPLE JUST PCB's WITH THE WIRES PRE SOLDERED ECT IF YOU WANT ONE PM ME) Soldering gear and experience Plenty of wire OPTIONAL: Desolderer (Expensive and doesnt need to be used but makes light work of desoldering PCB) HOW YOU DO IT ALL WIRE COLOURS THAT ARE UNDERLINED ARE THE STOCK WIRES, ALL IN ITALICS ARE THE WIRES I ADDED PLEASE TEST THE CONTROLLER AND 3.5MM JACK IN YOUR HEADUNIT BEFORE INSTALLING ALL COLOURS AND PINS MIGHT BE DIFFERENT IN YOUR CAR SO PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE CHECK BEFORE YOUR CUT ANYTHING Prepare the PCB Take apart your Universal SWC and remove the PCB. It should have a number of tactile switches on it and a power cable Test and notate which pins are Ground and which pins the actuation pin is. (This can be done with a continuity tester) In my case the whole board shared a common ground between all switches Desolder all of the tactile switches Solder new wires to the actuation pin for each switch Solder a wire to the common ground for the board. You should now have 5 wires soldered to your board (4 actuation + 1 ground), as well as the 2 original power cables IF YOU DONT HAVE THE TOOLS OR SKILL FOR THIS I MIGHT SELL A PRE-SOLDERED PCB FOR THOSE WHO WANT ONE (PM ME IF INTERESTED) DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!! Remove the Airbag Remove your key surround, upper column cover and lower column cover to gain access to the steering column (5 Phillips head screws in Lower cover) On either side of the steering wheel there is a plastic cover which covers a Torx Head Screw holding in the airbag. Remove both covers and screws Disconnect both plugs on either side of the steering wheel behind the previously removed covers. The airbag should be able to be pulled out now Prepare the Switches With the airbag removed you should be able to see the wires for the switch relay. Find where the two switches combine into a single output in the centre of the steering wheel and cut just before here, so that the switch wires are seperated. Solder the "COMMON GROUND" from your PCB to the YELLOW wires from each switch. Solder the "UP" from your PCB to the GREEN wire (One Side Only) Solder the "Down" from your PCB to the BLUE wire (Same Side) On the other side, "Next" -> Green // "Back" -> Blue Connect PCB to Loom On the passenger side of the steering wheel there is a plug, make sure it is disconnected. On the upper plug, follow the wires back to the cut you made earlier. Clean up and hijack the BLUE and YELLOW wires. Connect the POSITIVE wire from the output of the PCB to the BLUE wire, and the GROUND wire to the YELLOW wire Tap Wheel Harness On the back side of the of steering wheel boss there is a cable with a yellow plug (the wire itself is also probably covered in yellow tape) which runs back into the dash. Locate this plug and strip back whatever is covering Cut the 2 GREEN wires on the PASSENGER SIDE of the plug (Make sure to leave enough wire to solder to) Solder a POSITIVE wire to the INNER wire that you cut (INNER to the centre of the plug) (Make sure its long enough to run to the back of the stereo) Solder a NEGATIVE wire to the OUTER wire that you cut (OUTER to the centre of the plug) Connect Harness to Audio Jack Make sure you have enough wire to reach the back of your stereo Solder the POSITIVE wire to the "INPUT1" wire on the SWC audio jack Solder the NEGATIVE wire to the "GROUND" wire on the SWC audio jack Plug controller jack into Reconnect battery and test if working If working DISCONNECT BATTERY!!! Cable manage and protect your PCB with whatever you can (I used heatshrink) Reassemble airbag (remember to reconnect plugs and TORX screws) Reassemble steering column If not working Check your wiring against mine in the diagrams and the handwritten sheet (The handwritten sheet is the notes I took on the day so they are 100% correct for my install) Use a continuity tester and check wiring if able Write a comment and hopefully I will be able to help ENJOY THE AUDIO CONTROLS Conclusion If you need help with anything dont be afraid to comment and I'll help out the best I can. I have seen tons of people asking about how to do this for a number of years now but I believe this is the first tutorial. I posted a couple videos to facebook of it and there seems to be alot of people who are interested, however, I believe that people think its a lot less time-consuming of a job than it actually is.

Hi everyone, been searching forums & Google for a while now struggling to find detailed info on my question... I have an r33 gtst (engine out currently) hks 3037s top mount & many other mods including a genuine greddy plenum. My question is how do I go about gaining the midrange loss back from the plenum? A few posts in various forums said a spacer between the plenum & the head. So this leads me to my questions below 1. How thick should the spacer be? 2. Did it cause any fittment issues? 3. Can you use the same bolts to fit the plenum back on or longer ones to suit? 4. to people who have done this was it really noticeable dyno/road feel? I'm not here to get plenum choice advice or what somoneones opinion on my setup is or why plazmaman this & greddy that...... just trying to find info on the greddy spacer idea & if it works well.... To anyone who has done this please shed some light on this topic, tell us what car/engine u have & how thick the spacer is + what were your gains.... Thanks in advance Ps hope everyone had a merry Christmas & have a happy & safe new year!

Hey Everyone I have just put a standard RB25DET NEO into a R32 Gtst. Engine was out of an Auto r34 GTT rb25det neo) Ecu and loom is from a manual Stagea (rb25det neo) It ran perfect after i connected everything, took it for a spin and went great through all of the gears ! running 10psi now on my way back from testing i went to give it to it a bit and all it did was bog/misfire under load, so i thought maybe coilpacks/ spark plugs/ afm etc, Okay so i changed all that, bought new platinum spark plugs new conditioned afm, and another set of coilpacks, went for another drive, and again went good, THEN on the way back same thing its like as if the ecu reads something wrong and it goes into limp/safety mode??? also like to mention runs really rich too. OKAY now i have worked out when i disconnect the afm and put it back in its like as if it resets everything and when i go for a drive i get about 10 seconds of running good then it goes back to bogging/ misfiring under load. Is there something im missing that needs to be connected to the ecu ? what is causing this to happen? Also I dont have a diagnosis plug haha and wanted to also ask if i buy a power FC with hand held and connect that to a computer will that tell me what is wrong, and a friend of mine told me a power fc ecu does not have limp/safety mode so will run normal with one, is this true? Thanks kindly !!

my goal is to break 500whp yet still be a weekend driver What i have greedy FMIC Apexi power intake kit Tein coilovers and dampener kit 52mill radiator Parts list. Q45 Airflow meter $100-150 Plenum , fuel rail, throttle body $1000 (for engine clean up only minimal performance increase) Walbro 400LPH $200 ECU I have a haltech platinum Pro ecu kit, let me know if I should upgrade this to make 500hp (370rwkw) Injectors 1000cc $1000-$1100 Carbon clutch twin plate with flywheel $2500 (for $300-500 more but can handle upto 800 hp, if anyone gets a gtt to 800 please fill out your will) Camsharft poncam type b $700 Cam pullys $350 And the big one GT35R turbo kit $4200 Whiteline sway bars $700 any tips or advice or different products i should buy?

OH NO! Has my turbo gone? Hi guys! Looking for some help! I have a R34 GTT and I think the turbo has gone! ... I was driving as per normal when suddenly the engine light came on followed by all boost dropping and about half a dozen shudders within the engine bay area! I had the stereo on so I cant pinpoint the spots exactly or the true tone of the noise etc. Instantly the car was so sluggish and sick sounding that I was thinking it was about to stall. There is no obvious fluid leaks and there was no smoke. I was only around the corner so I was able to make it home. Felt like the car was hardly pulling me along, when it was at idle it 'sounds' normal. If you give it a bit of throttle you cannot hear the turbo spooling anywhere to the volume previously. The car has done 165 000 ish km's and I have heard the turbos don't last much more then 140 000 ... My questions are: Do you all think this is obviously the turbo? If not, possibly what else and how do I go about checking it? (cause I aint driving it anywhere!) lol Many thanks in advance! Donna

My R34 GTT with new exhaust Just got the new exhaust to my GTT, sounds muuch better

Hey guys, Just found an issue today, stuck what to do. I have the R34 GTT, all has been fine and so on for ages... Not driven car since last weekend. Went out today, just found out the Brake Lights don't work.... I can turn on the lights as normal, but when I press Brake pedal, whether in ' no lights', 'side lights' or full lights' mode, I get no Brake Lights I changed the 10A Red fuse from the Fuse box in the engine Bay, which is labelled as 'TAIL' which is between 'TCS' and 'HORN' , but still no lights, and not sure the 'TAIL' fuse relates to brake lights... The fuse panel down by the pedals = in Jap (so cant read which fuse is for what!) Not even sure its a fuse problem. Not sure what to check, or where, etc. Any help, i would be very grateful